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In Peru's traditional coca-growing regions, small farmers are trying to break out of their dependence on illicit coca cultivation and switch to legal products such as cocoa or coffee. The photos were taken by Leslie Searles. When Silvia Iparraguirre hears the invitation to early morning exercise on the radio programme broadcast from the provincial capital, she smiles: 'I don't need early morning exercise here,' says the year-old. Quickly the slim woman with the green eyes and blond curly hair walks a dirt road out of the village. Her father was of Italian descent, she explains the colour of her eyes and hair, which is unusual for the area. At a rice field she turns right, then goes down an embankment to a river. Silvia skillfully balances on the slippery ground in her rubber boots and with her machete. Two hills further on and Silvia has arrived at her cocoa plantation. The heat and the mud don't seem to bother the sporty Silvia, she easily finds her safe step on the narrow muddy path. For Silvia and her husband, cocoa is not just a product. However, the skin is considerably harder than that of a papaya. Silvia's husband, Angel, cuts off the fruit with a machete, Silvia plucks the 'baba' out. The fresh cocoa beans look like huge snowflakes in there, or like a big white candy. Silvia Iparraguirre puts one of the 'babas' in her mouth. CCN 51 is the most common type of cocoa, it is very resistant and grows well. But it is also a bit sour. Not suitable for export to Europe the bean is mainly used to make cocoa butter; the price that farmers get for it is low. Although they do not yield quite as much fruit, they have a higher market value. It looks no different from CCN 51, but actually tastes much sweeter. Silvia and her husband Angel have been growing gourmet cocoa beans since their cocoa cooperative 'Colpa de Loros', established a year ago, found a buyer in France who purchases their entire production and uses it to make exquisite branded chocolate. Since her husband Angel often works as a lumberjack away from home, Silvia has learned everything she needs to know about cocoa farming from the UNODC project financed by Germany: Pruning, grafting and fertilizing trees, all using purely organic methods. Her land is also certified organic, a precondition for remaining in the cooperative. It took four years before the cocoa trees yielded their first profit this year. So far, they have earned around euros with the cocoa, 'but we are only at the beginning,' Silvia is convinced - because cocoa trees only reach their full productivity after the fifth year. Silvia lives with her husband Angel and her year-old son in Nolberth, a good half hour's drive off the highway to the provincial capital Pucallpa. Nolberth was only founded 16 years ago, allegedly by a German named 'Norbert', who wanted to build a holiday settlement here, had the village entered in the land register on his name and then disappeared forever. Only the name Nolberth has remained from him. Today people live her and many of them have fled from other parts of the country because of the civil war to earn their living with coca. Silvia and Angel also have a painful history behind them. Silvia's mother was killed by the terror of the 'Shining Path' guerrilla which was active in Peru in the 80s and 90s, and Silvia had to leave her home in the neighbouring department of San Martin 'only with what I was wearing'. Studying was not possible. Silvia, as the oldest, had to care for her five younger siblings. Her difficult fate is not apparent to Silvia Iparraguirre. In search of a new home, Silvia and her husband Angel settled in Nolberth. At first, like everyone in the village, they grew coca. But coca brought the same violence they had tried to escape from. When the Peruvian government defoliated and eradicated the last coca bushes 6 years ago, Silvia and Angel were more than willing to bet on cocoa instead of coca. They have been living here for 16 years - and Silvia has become the 'agente municipal', the head of the village of Nolberth. As a condition of German funding, the gender component has been part of the project from the very beginning and was a major reason why a woman is now in charge of the small village. Thanks to this experience, the women of the village organized a so-called 'ladies committee', whose president was Silvia Iparraguirre. Silvia was elected and is now negotiating with the authorities for the fate of her village. At first, many men would have refused to follow her, but in the meantime, she has gained authority and gets along well with them in her local council. Her husband Angel is proud of his wife: 'In the past, with coca growing there was a lot of machismo, the man brought the money home and said, here I decide'. This has become much more cooperative with cocoa, because the couples cultivate cocoa together and earn the proceeds through hard work together. She has her office at home - at the wooden kitchen table is her booklet in which she notes down her appointments, right behind there is the sink. Silvia's most important work tool as a local manager is her mobile phone. Two of them are right by the window. Unfortunately, there is only connection at some points in Nolberth. So far, there is no running water in the houses in Nolberth - everyone gets their water from two public wells. This is what Silvia Iparraguirre wants to achieve during her term of office: that the houses get running water and the village has a good secondary school. Just a few years ago, the school authorities denied that there were any school-age children at all in Nolberth. Silvia Iparraguirre was able to correct this at the school board and is now fighting for a decent secondary school. Also, the dirt road to the country road should be improved, so that the next rainfall does not turn it into a mud hole again. With a well-practiced hit with the machete she cuts off the coconut and knocks a hole in it to drink the coconut milk from it. Then she skips down, machete in one hand, coconut in the other, the slippery path to the river as if it were an easy walk. No, Silvia Iparraguirre really doesn't need to do early morning exercise. From the main road, one drives approximately meters of altitude difference steeply down on a single-lane gravel road that turns into a mud hole when it rains. After 6 kilometers by car, the route is only walkable: after a jump over a stream and two muddy embankments further up, there opens up all at once a well-tended green area lined with flowers in all colours. Two wooden houses in the middle of the area. They have returned here. When his father died, many years ago, his mother Epifania wanted to sell the remote property on the slope of the rainforest. He now is 30 years old and is convinced that his future lies in the countryside, on his finca. This was not always the case. Now 53 years old, she is the mother of three children and has been a widow for many years. At that time, it was all about survival, she remembers: self-sufficiency, with everything that the forest could provide. And of course, the coca. It brought the money, the quick money, thanks to several annual harvests and the high demand. Back then, they walked for three hours on an impassable dirt track to the main road. But then the special police came to the remote village, sprayed the coca bushes with a defoliant and eradicated them. Willy and his two sisters went to school there. After that, however, their education was over. The family could not afford higher education. Young Willy worked in temporary jobs, printing t-shirts for a friend who ran a printing shop. The entrepreneurial spirit was already in him then. He wanted to start something of his own. He found this perspective on their old property in the distant village of Ricardo Herrera. At first Willy, like everyone else in Ricardo Herrera, also grew coca. After the national anti-narcotics police had eradicated the bushes, Willy Alonzo was reluctant to be convinced of the UNODC project for alternative cultivation. The decisive factor for Willy was the beginning of the cocoa boom. The global demand for cocoa increased and Peruvian cocoa was considered to be of particularly high quality. During this time, UNODC project staff showed Willy Alonzo how to overcome this drought by growing corn, beans, raising chickens and guinea pigs. It was encouraging for Willy Alonzo, when the first cocoa harvest already yielded a small profit — enough for the young entrepreneur to invest more and move completely to Ricardo Herrera. The trees, which are about 5 meters high, are placed at precisely measured triangular intervals from one tree to the other. He also learned the importance of cutting the trees correctly so that they get the right amount of light and shade. In the tropical rainforest, the leaves quickly grow together to form a dense canopy of leaves and no longer let sunlight through. Then moisture would also accumulate underneath - both of which are poison to the cocoa plants. Proper fertilization is just as important. At precisely measured intervals in a circle around the cocoa tree, he pours the fertilizer obtained from the cocoa beans. The result: a flowering cocoa grove, with large organic red cocoa fruits, so many and so large that one wonders how the small trees can carry such a load. The yellow to reddish cocoa fruits resemble the papaya fruits in shape and colour, but the shell is hard and often notched. He harvests up to kilos of cocoa per hectare, says Willy. At a price of the equivalent of 2. That is twice the Peruvian minimum wage, extrapolated to an entire year. And he is extremely curious. Although he has not been able to complete a formal university or technical college degree, he has acquired knowledge of crop cultivation, accounting and marketing in various courses organized by the UNODC project. But it's the other way round, to be successful as a farmer, you have to learn and keep yourself informed'. Today, his goal is to increase his cocoa production and set up his own cooperative with which he can market his cocoa beans directly. Thanks to the coffee and cocoa cooperatives Naranjillo and La Divisoria, which are strong in the region, he has been able to identify the advantages of the cooperative model for small-scale farmers. Only as a cooperative the farmers can meet guaranteed delivery quantities while retaining control over the marketing of their products. The kitchen was a dark, sooty hole. There was no bathroom or toilet'. Today, his farmstead consists of two wooden houses, an old and a new one, and a separate new concrete building, which contains the toilet and a shower. Willy Alonzo was only able to make these purchases because he achieved good harvest yields thanks to the conversion to cocoa - advised and accompanied by the UNODC project. On the ground floor of the family's old wooden house, there now is a workshop, next to the workbench are a few sacks. Willy and his mother have neatly taped little signs to know where everything belongs: machetes, hammer, saw on one side, the sacks of food on the other side. On the opposite wall, a little sign shows that the bedrooms are located upstairs. The highlight, however, is the new wooden house with the kitchen and dining room. It is built on wooden stilts to protect it from the heavy rains: It has a sink with running water, a gas stove and a long-tiled work surface in the kitchen section. In the other part of the room wooden benches and chairs invite to sit down. Epifania serves 'chopo', a delicious juice made from cooked bananas. In front of the open veranda, you can almost touch the rain forest with your hands: Green banana trees, red strelicia and purple bougainvillea grow on the hillside behind the veranda. Willy and Epifania don't need to plant flower boxes. They can pick the flowers directly from the veranda. He was inspired to do so by the model house that the Ricardo Herrera community built in the center of the village and which today serves as a community house. The community members then built the model house with their own contributions. The mayor committed to use state funds to upgrade the road to Ricardo Herrera. The only thing missing in the village is a good school. If the educational opportunities in the countryside do not improve, this could also lead Willy to move back to the city one day. But he infected his mother with his optimism. She moved back to her son in Ricardo Herrera, in the village that she once co-founded with her husband and left afterwards. When Moly Checya thinks back on how she outwitted her husband, the year-old coffee farmer cannot repress a grin. The new method developed by the engineers involved in the German-funded UNODC project required more work and meant allowing the coffee beans to sprout, then waiting for them to grow into individual seedlings before planting. Since then how to plant coffee has never been an issue in the Checya-Ponce family. The story of Moly Checya and her family illustrates how planting legal products not only results in limited prosperity but may also restore peace and laughter to an entire family. Each time Moly Checya laughs, the silver crown on her incisor catches the light. Laughter seems as much a part of the year-old as her straight, black hair, her round face and the Wellingtons she wears to work on her coffee plantation. Yet in the early years of her life, Moly Checya had very little to laugh about. The livelihood referred to here was growing coca for the Columbian drug mafia. But the money brought violence with it, violence from all sides. Some days the children had nothing more to eat than a plantain and an egg. Then the military came in and accused the farmers of supporting the terrorist organisation. The Checya family had a particularly hard time of it. Every family in the region has lost at least one loved one to the violence. The only way her mother has been able to survive has been by suppressing the memory of the violence. She admits that the memories come flooding back when she sees war films on television, memories of rows of dead bodies along the side of the road, of massacres by the military and the terrorists. After all cultivating coca might be profitable, but it was also still illegal. Nevertheless, drawn by the allure of quick money and a lack of viable alternatives, Moly and Paul began their married life together growing coca. With some assistance, they began ramping up their coffee production for the consumer market. The starting phase was rough, as they knew next to nothing about how to grow coffee. It also takes a number of years before the plants began generating a profit, so it is important to continue growing other crops, or start growing them since coca is generally grown as a monoculture. During the one to two years a coffee farm requires before it begins turning a profit, many families succumb to the draw of the drug mafia, which offers farmers lucrative pre-financing if they go back to growing coca. So it is very important to have other sources of income. Moly Checya and Paul Ponce remained firm in their determination to grow coffee. Although coffee provides a good income by now, Moly and her husband Paul still plant maize, beans and bananas for their own consumption, and 75 chickens scratch and peck for food in their coop. Moly sells a portion of her coffee to the Bio-Azul cooperative. She also roasts and grinds some to sell directly to consumers. Simple wooden shelves display bags of ground coffee along with handmade chocolate from cocoa farmers in another village. They also sell giant plantains and limes the size of grapefruits. Business is brisk and considerably more profitable than selling unprocessed coffee beans to a middleman. Moly Checya, her husband Paul and her parents are sitting around a table behind the stand, selling cups of homebrewed coffee from their fields. Moly was only able to complete the sixth grade. No one in the family regrets giving up coca farming. By deactivating this checkbox, you object to the storage of cookies. Stories from Peru. The Mayor. The young entrepreneur. The coffee farmer.

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