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In the waterlogged Netherlands, climate change is considered neither a hypothetical nor a drag on the economy. Rowers strained toward a finish line and spectators hugged the shore. Henk Ovink, hawkish, wiry, head shaved, watched from a V. Like cheese in France or cars in Germany, climate change is a business in the Netherlands. They often end up hiring Dutch firms, which dominate the global market in high-tech engineering and water management. No place in Europe is under greater threat than this waterlogged country on the edge of the Continent. Much of the nation sits below sea level and is gradually sinking. Now climate change brings the prospect of rising tides and fiercer storms. From a Dutch mind-set, climate change is not a hypothetical or a drag on the economy, but an opportunity. While the Trump administration withdraws from the Paris accord, the Dutch are pioneering a singular way forward. Graphics by Derek Watkins and Jeremy White. Design by Matt Ruby and Rumsey Taylor. It is, in essence, to let water in, where possible, not hope to subdue Mother Nature: to live with the water, rather than struggle to defeat it. The Dutch devise lakes, garages, parks and plazas that are a boon to daily life but also double as enormous reservoirs for when the seas and rivers spill over. You may wish to pretend that rising seas are a hoax perpetrated by scientists and a gullible news media. Or you can build barriers galore. But in the end, neither will provide adequate defense, the Dutch say. And what holds true for managing climate change applies to the social fabric, too. Environmental and social resilience should go hand in hand, officials here believe, improving neighborhoods, spreading equity and taming water during catastrophes. Climate adaptation, if addressed head-on and properly, ought to yield a stronger, richer state. This is the message the Dutch have been taking out into the world. He proudly shows off the new rowing course just outside Rotterdam, where the World Rowing Championships were staged last summer. The course forms part of an area called the Eendragtspolder, a acre patchwork of reclaimed fields and canals — a prime example of a site built as a public amenity that collects floodwater in emergencies. It is near the lowest point in the Netherlands, about 20 feet below sea level. With its bike paths and water sports, the Eendragtspolder has become a popular retreat. Sign up to receive our in-depth journalism about climate change around the world. The project is among dozens in a nationwide program, years in the making, called Room for the River, which overturned centuries-old strategies of seizing territory from rivers and canals to build dams and dikes. The Netherlands effectively occupies the gutter of Europe, a lowlands bounded on one end by the North Sea, into which immense rivers like the Rhine and the Meuse flow from Germany, Belgium and France. Dutch thinking changed after floods forced hundreds of thousands to evacuate during the s. To use public pools unrestricted, Dutch children must first earn diplomas that require swimming in their clothes and shoes. In the Netherlands, scholarly articles about changes to the Arctic ice cap make front-page headlines. Long before climate change deniers began to campaign against science in the United States, Dutch engineers were preparing for apocalyptic, once-every,years storms. He took me one morning around new waterfront development in a formerly poor, industrial neighborhood, to show how urban renewal dovetails with strategies to mitigate the effects of climate change. Aboutaleb said of his city. Rotterdam lies in the most vulnerable part of the Netherlands, both economically and geographically. If the water comes in, from the rivers or the sea, we can evacuate maybe 15 out of people. We can escape only into high buildings. We have no choice. We must learn to live with water. A Moroccan-born Muslim and a rising star in the Dutch political world who denounces religious radicals and reactionary nationalists alike, the mayor runs a traditionally tough, working-class city. Rotterdam today is anything but a paradise. It is riven by social fissures and discord over immigration. But it has begun to improve in recent years as it has become greener and more diverse. When asked about climate threats, the mayor talks about creating a less divided, more attractive, healthier city — more capable of facing the stresses climate change imposes on society. Aboutaleb said. Lately the city, accustomed to starting over, has reinvented itself as a capital of enterprise and environmental ingenuity. It has pioneered the construction of facilities like those parking garages that become emergency reservoirs, ensuring that the city can prevent sewage overflow from storms now predicted to happen every five or 10 years. It has installed plazas with fountains, gardens and basketball courts in underserved neighborhoods that can act as retention ponds. It has reimagined its harbors and stretches of its formerly industrial waterfront as incubators for new businesses, schools, housing and parks. These are all stops on the standard tour for visiting foreign delegations: proof-of-concept urban interventions, if not actually all-encompassing solutions, that address climate threats in ways that incrementally serve the economy and social needs. You need public awareness. You also need cyber-resilience, because the next challenge in climate safety is cybersafety. And you need good policies, big and small. Molenaar said. It is the size of two tubular Eiffel Towers, toppled over. Picnickers line the shore to watch. I drove with Mr. It is not uncommon here to witness the astonishing sight of ships cruising by overhead. This happens in a country where the highways are frequently below sea level. The Maeslantkering is a consequence of repeated historic calamities. In , the North Sea overwhelmed the Dutch coastline, inaugurating a spate of protective construction that failed to hold back the water in when an overnight storm killed more than 1, people. The Dutch still call it the Disaster. They redoubled national efforts, inaugurating the Delta Works project that dammed two major waterways and produced the Maeslantkering — the giant sea gate, completed in , keeping open the immense waterway that services the entire port of Rotterdam. Protecting the port is paramount. The port is still the bedrock industry in this city of more than ,, according to port officials, accounting for 90, jobs, not to mention another 90, workers whose businesses depend on the port, too. The port supports five oil refineries, whose owners include Shell and the Koch brothers, along with a massive coal-fire power plant. How the port eventually transitions to a greener economy, authorities concede, is the greatest challenge they face, along with climate change. In any case, the safe transport of all those raw materials, not to mention the responsibility of keeping the feet of people in the city dry, now and in the future, depends on the Maeslantkering. The idea behind it, first discussed decades ago, was unprecedented — a monumental gate with two arms, resting on either side of the canal, each arm as tall and twice as heavy as the Eiffel Tower. It was a staggering work of engineering. The steel ball joints for each arm are about 30 feet in diameter and weigh 1. When the gate is closed, the arms float out onto the canal, meet and lock, the tubes filling with water and sinking onto a concrete bed, making an impenetrable steel wall against the North Sea. The process takes two and a half hours. Pressure from the sea is then transferred from the wall to the largest ball joints in the world, embedded in the banks on either side of the river. Computers, using a closed electronic system to avoid cyberattack, monitor sea levels hourly and can shut the gate automatically — or open it. They extract water from the tubes when it is time for the Maeslantkering to be reopened. In that case, water pouring down from the Rhine and Meuse rivers could not flow into the sea and would overwhelm Rotterdam even more swiftly than the North Sea could. As Mr. Aboutaleb noted, escape would be impossible. Even so, Rotterdam port officials have plans underway to add another two feet to the height of the gate. Beyond the Maeslantkering, back in town, there are countless fortifications, big and small, knitted into streets and squares. The site of the Dakpark used to be a railway switching station, a grim nowhere place abutting a cluster of social housing blocks. This was a red-light district, notorious for drug dealers and crime. The dike does a lot more than just hold back water. It has a shopping center, which the neighborhood needed, and a park on the roof. Shops face the waterfront and help pay to keep up the park. The park slopes from the roof down to streets and housing blocks, creating a grassy hill that links park and neighborhood. When the weather is good, sunbathers sprawl on the grassy roof and toss Frisbees. Formal gardens open onto acres of well-kept lawns. The park is a kilometer long. And wonderful. Its success — not only as a barrier but also as a boon to business and the area — has persuaded officials to consult neighborhoods and set aside money for community-initiated projects. We believe you get the smartest solutions when communities are engaged and help make the links between water and neighborhood development. Women in hijabs lugged groceries, old men lounged on park benches and children rode skateboards over broken concrete paths, past aged housing blocks. One block of houses surrounded a water plaza created to capture floodwater. Young families were enticed by prices of a single euro to buy abandoned houses around it. Many families came and went. The water park was vandalized. But, slowly, little by little, it has come to be embraced by the neighborhood. Vergert told me. The value of houses in the neighborhood has gone up. A few blocks away, a start-up in a converted industrial waterfront building is developing solar-powered sailing drones for collecting plastic trash from the sea, and, back in the middle of the city, a warehouse with a Brooklynesque mix of artisanal food stalls, a circus academy and a pinball museum has rejuvenated a formerly dingy pier. Rotterdam is clearly trying to cast itself as a model of inventive urbanism. A local businessman, Peter van Wingerden, envisions floating dairy farms along the waterfront. One in every three trucks coming into the city carries food, he said. Floating farms would reduce truck traffic and carbon emissions, supplying the city with its own milk. When I asked Mr. People in the Netherlands believe that the places with the most people and the most to lose economically should get the most protection. The idea that a global economic hub like Lower Manhattan flooded during Hurricane Sandy, costing the public billions of dollars, yet still has so few protections, leaves climate experts here dumbfounded. Designing the city to deal with water was the first task of survival here and it remains our defining job. Follow Michael Kimmelman on Twitter at kimmelman ; and on Facebook at facebook. Please upgrade your browser. Site Navigation Site Mobile Navigation. Rotterdam, a port city whose economy relies on fossil fuels, is leading the charge on climate change adaptation. Area of Rotterdam below sea level. Eendragtspolder rowing course. Schiebroekse park. Kralingse park lake. Erasmus University Rotterdam. Erasmus Medical Center. Feyenoord Stadium. Rotterdam Ahoy Convention Center. Pernisser park. Mexico City Part 1. China Part 2. Rotterdam Part 3. Houston Part 4. Jakarta Part 5. Rowing teams practice at the Eendragtspolder, a site intended to be both a public amenity and a reservoir for floodwater. Interested in keeping up with climate change? To earn a swimming certificate, fifth graders practice in the pool with their clothes on. The Maeslantkering, an immense sea gate conceived decades ago to protect the port of Rotterdam. A storm surge in flooded the Dutch coastline, killing more than 1, people. Eiffel Tower. One arm of the Maeslantkering. The storm surge barriers are about 70 feet tall. The Dakpark, a rooftop park incorporated into a dike in Rotterdam. A water plaza in the Spangen neighborhood of Rotterdam was created to capture floodwater. The Erasmus Bridge in Rotterdam, seen from a water taxi.

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