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Total Croatia News. June 26, International Day Against Drug Abuse and Illicit Trafficking has been marked since when the UN decided to warn of the problem of drug abuse and the need for active involvement of all stakeholders in the prevention of drug abuse at the global and national levels. Data from the national register of people being treated for abuse of psycho-active drugs which have been present in Croatia since , indicate that in there were 6, people under treatment which is less when compared to when that number was 7, There are fewer new drug addicts while the share of male drug addicts is four times higher than for women. More health news can be found in the Lifestyle section. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Please don't insert text in the box below! Search for:. Male Female.

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I had never heard of the Maslenica Bridge, but I will not be forgetting it anytime soon. Crossing the bridge meant saying goodbye to the twists and turns which had taken us three spectacularly beautiful and exhaustingly circuitous hours to navigate along the Adriatic Highway. From this point southward it would be a relatively easy journey to Split or so I thought. The worst of the head spinning highway was behind us. The bridge signified a return to semi-normalcy on this bus journey. Curves went back to being gradual and the scenery became much less inspiring. The bridge symbolized crossing a divide between two worlds, one impenetrable and the other improbable. It was the latter that we were now entering, the more popular Croatian coast of historic towns, resorts, and cities of varying sizes. It also meant many more stops than I could have ever imagined. Modern Miracles — The Maslenica Bridge The Maslenica Bridge is one of those modern miracles of engineering that allow humanity by the hundreds to pass over a formidable natural barrier each day without giving a second thought to just how daunting such a passage must have been before the industrial age. The Maslenica Bridge our bus crossed is one of two by that name within sight of each other. The one we crossed on the D8 motorway is a 21 st century construction. It was built as a replacement to one of numerous structural casualties of the Yugoslav Wars. Getting it rebuilt was of great logistical and symbolic importance. The bridge has become a favorite of bungee jumpers who fancy the adrenaline rush of a free fall from the 56 meter high bridge. I was most enthralled by another aspect of the bridge, it was straight. Considering the serpentine motorway we had just covered, the bridge brought a sense of relief. While the road straightened up, our journey was far from over. Split was several hours to the south, which meant there was still a great deal of ground to be covered. This journey was about to turn into a test of endurance. Our first stop along the straight and narrow portion was Zadar. I remembered its bus station with such fondness. That was back in the days of innocence, prior to making the up and back bus trek along the Croatian Littoral. Hitching A Ride — Driven to Discomfort Before departing from Zadar a week earlier, I had no idea of the merciless journey we were about to undertake. Returning to the bus station was not a return to innocence, instead I was weathered and beaten from hour upon hour on the long and winding Croatian roads. My eyes glazed over at the sight of Zadar. Instead of elation or expectation, all I could do was give a shrug of indifference. There was time for a bathroom break and little else. Then it was on to Sibenik, a place I had planned to visit, but then decided to skip for a regrettable day in Nin. Sibenik is famous for its cathedral and not much else. While the bus weaved its way through the heavily trafficked streets and a sea of commercial development, I searched in vain for the cathedral. In Sibenik, I began to truly loathe this journey. It could not end fast enough and that was the problem. It was not so much the hours ahead that I dreaded, as much as the endless stops and starts. Every larger town along our route was a possible detour where 5 minutes became It did not take me long to realize that there was no way we would make it to Split on time. After awhile, I began to wonder if we would make it to Split at all. Croatia is one of the most customer service oriented countries I have visited in Eastern Europe. Part of this is because it has little choice. There is also something to be said for Balkan hospitality, a level of service that in my experience can make the recipient feel like a long lost friend of the family. This hospitality goes way beyond loosening a handful of kuna from a tight fisted tourist. As I discovered on the Rijeka to Split bus ride, it can extend to would be passengers standing in eager anticipation at a wide spot in the road. The bus drivers — there were two onboard — decided to stop for almost anyone who looked like they might need a ride. This might have been understandable except for the fact none of these interlopers were traveling to Split. What had been a city to city bus throughout the first part of this journey soon became a local connector line. A Mad Habit — The Granting of Wishes The most absurd outcome of these excruciating acts of kindness was that those who needed a lift took precedence over the passengers who had paid a steep fee for at least eight hours of discomfort. The drivers seemed to enjoy offering a lift to anyone who wanted to get onboard. This had the added irritation of creating a free for all when it came to finding an open seat. The stops went from intermittent to interminable. The bus fell further and further behind schedule. The upshot of the many pickups and drop offs was that over an hour was added to the journey. The bus drivers had the maddening habit of stopping more rather than less the longer we traveled. It was a bizarre habit that was heartening only to those who stood by the roadside. There was a good chance that their wish for a ride would be granted. Conversely, my wish for this journey to end would not be granted for several more hours. Getting back to the Balkans also meant reliving a tradition from my travels in Eastern Europe, specifically the Free Tour. In Zadar, a company known as Free Spirit Walking Tours offered visitors a free of charge tour of the city. As with other free tours, the participants only pay what they feel the tour is worth. The upshot was that my wife and I registered for a free tour on our first morning in the city. It is always a good sign when you show up 15 minutes early for a tour and the guide is already there to greet you. She had first come to Zadar less than a decade before to study at the university. She said that the University of Zadar had the most beautiful location in the world. When I later visited it on the waterfront, part of which fronts the Adriatic seashore, I could not have agreed more. She gave us advance notice that one couple would be arriving a few minutes late, but the tour would begin as soon as they arrived. She had a tough task ahead of her. There was no way a two hour tour or for that matter a day and a half tour could relate the entire history of Zadar. Anyone who wanted a resuscitation of that information should look online or visit the library. Tania began by telling us how Zadar has been ruled by 14 different entities during the last 2, years. Fortunately, Tania did not dawdle on this. She showed us the layout and architecture of the Roman Forum as it looked during the height of the empire. A single standing column in situ acted as a point of orientation making it much easier to imagine the expansiveness of the Forum. Ladera had disappeared beneath medieval Zara which had been rendered invisible by modern Zadar. One day in the distant future, where we stood on this day would lay beneath the creation of a future civilization. Head Case — The Guillotine in Zadar Some stories are so revealing that they are worth repeating, one of which would make our free tour of Zadar a highly memorable experience. Shame and capital punishment shared a close kinship in medieval and early modern societies. Tania pointed out that the single Roman column still standing in the Forum area had been transformed by the medieval rulers of Zadar as a pillory column. The offending person would be chained to the column and exposed to the ridicule of their fellow citizens. This could mean verbal or physical abuse for days at a time. I could not help but wonder what the rate of recidivism was after enduring so much public shame and scorn. Of course, there were other punishments that went far beyond shaming, up to and including death sentences. As Tania related the story, it seems that a woman took it upon herself to stab her abusive husband forty times. The woman was given a death sentence which was to be carried with a guillotine. The horrific handiwork of this instrument of death had never been witnessed before by the locals in Zadar. In a matter of seconds, the deathly deed was done. The crowd of onlookers was stunned at this public act of violence. Anger spread among them. A near riot broke out as the crowd surged forward. They took matters into their own hands, carrying out their own execution by destroying the guillotine. That infamous execution would be the first and last ever done by a guillotine in Zadar. The power of this tale as told by Tania was shown by the rapt attention of the entire tour group. This was not a story that anyone had expected to hear. Several of the most fascinating stops revealed history hidden in plain sight. These included a medieval church that was now part of a bank building, another medieval church that was connected to a coffee shop and yet another church where souvenirs and goods made in Croatia were sold. Many historic structures in Zadar never went out of style, instead they were repurposed for modern usage. These buildings may not have maintained their complete historical integrity, but their current utilitarian functions had saved them from extinction. Tania showed us another side of Zadar, a magical and mysterious cityscape waiting to be discovered. Some people would travel across the world just to see a sunset in Zadar. I was lucky enough to be one of those people. Zadar has several must see historic sites and museums that attract tourists. These include a clutch of medieval churches, outstanding examples of gold and silver reliquaries for a multitude of saints, several sections of the renowned city walls and a seaside promenade par excellence. It is the latter that attracts the most attention from visitors and not just because of its incredibly entrancing views of the Adriatic. It is also home to one of the most unique structures in Zadar, the sea organ. It is also home to a waning sun that sets the sky ablaze. If ever there was a novelty than surely this must be it. I wondered if the organ was a premodern monstrosity created to amuse the ancient or medieval masses. The word contraption came to mind. Nonetheless, I was not going to pass up a chance to observe the Sea Organ in action. I dragged my wife along with me. She was nonplussed when I mentioned that this was a must see. She had every right to feel that way, but I convinced her that it would be worth the bother. The Sea Organ emitted powerful, fully developed sounds that were felt as well as heard. The structure has a series of steps going down to the sea. Starting with eight steps in the first section, then less one step for each subsequent section. Prior to the Sea Organ, the waterfront in this part of Zadar was little more than a concrete conurbation. These included drug users, teenagers boozing and illicit love tristes. This was not exactly family or tourist entertainment. The Sea Organ helped make this part of Zadar desirable again. It spawned a dramatic increase in foot traffic, especially on summer evenings. Crowds gather at dusk to hear the Sea Organ while watching the sunset. The sun gets a rousing sendoff from the Sea Organ throughout the year. The latter stood close to the center of the Old Town, soaring high above the cityscape. The 56 meter high bell tower had been built in two phases. What makes its construction so interesting was that the building phases occurred years apart. The lower portion was built in the midth century. If the construction had then ended, there would have been no campanile to scale. Thanks to the efforts of British architect Thomas Jackson, later additions of the upper portion came off splendidly. This can be attributed to Jackson modeling the Bell Tower after another famous one on the island of Rab. Jackson was also an art historian and brought his breadth of knowledge to bear upon the design. The Bell Tower also serves as a lookout for tourists who want to get an aerial view of the city and sea. This experience is one that crowds of onlookers avail themselves of each evening. The climb left me breathless, but the view over Zadar was breathtaking. The sun was beginning to dip as dusk slowly, but inexorably gave way to the encroaching darkness. Shadows lowered their veils over the Old Town. Orange rooftops and stone structures were still managed a fleeting radiant amid the waning light. In the distance were islands and the Adriatic stretching off into the horizon. The sky which surrounded the sinking sun had turned a tinge of velvet, the fabric of nature stretching across the lowest part of the horizon. It was ecstasy in its purest and most primitive form. The most in demand spots were any of those which looked over the Old Town and towards the sea. Everyone was keen to witness the famed Zadar sunset. Hitchcock was so taken with the scene that he proclaimed the Zadar sunset as best in the world. Tourism authorities in Zadar found it useful in promoting the city. This was the rare case when promotional efforts spoke a universal truth. The Zadar sunset was as good as advertised. I watched people frolic near the Sea Organ while others stood in a sublime stupor, dumbfounded as they listened to the sounds emitted by this seamless integration of the natural and manmade worlds. The sunset transfixed crowds of onlookers. To gaze upon such beauty was truly a blessing, it made life worth living. The sunset and Sea Organ were unique experiences, ones that I would never forget. The rest of the world melted away before them. Sky, sea, and sound were all that was left, the fundamental elements of life in Zadar. I had come to ask Goranka, the hostess at our guest house in Zadar, a couple of questions regarding the accommodation. Soon our conversation moved on to the state of tourism in Croatia despite the continuing pandemic. Goranka stated that owning a guest house was not an easy way to make money. The tourist market was capricious, especially over the past two years. Fortunately, she was already retired from a job in insurance. She spoke with pride about her 40 years in the industry. As we grew more comfortable conversing, I decided to ask her about the war. The question elicited a hesitant, yet affirmative response. I was not surprised to hear that she had been to Zadar while the city was under siege. The Yugoslav Army, along with Serbian forces, cut the city off from its hinterland while trying to isolate Dalmatia from the rest of Croatia. Opposing this force were Croatian troops who managed to hold the enemy at bay for several months. The inhabitants of Zadar suffered hunger and other privations. The battle for Zadar turned into a life and death struggle. As I would soon learn, Goranka had firsthand experience of the battle for Zadar as one of many civilians caught in the crossfire between hatred and history. While Zadar hardly ever made the headlines, the fighting in and around it was violent, destructive, and deadly. First, there was the Battle of Zadar which took place during a three week period in September and October Then the city was effectively besieged from that time through to January Those left in Zadar during the fighting could only wait and hope that the Yugoslav Army and Serbian forces would be driven back. Goranka said she was the only one of her female friends who did not leave for Austria or Italy. Her husband was an essential employee who could not leave Zadar due to his job helping organize transportation logistics in Zadar. He would be doing the same thing for the Croatian soldiers defending the city. As the battle raged, with artillery being lobbed at the city in regular intervals, Goranka was fighting a battle of her own. She gave birth to a son during the siege. Supplies and provisions were scarce. There was nowhere to buy diapers. She was forced to recycle the same cloth one repeatedly, chancing her life by washing it in the sea. Today it is filled with strollers and swimmers. In , it was an island amid a terrible storm. Danger was ever present with civilians caught in the crossfire. The official death toll was 34 killed by artillery bombardments, but there is no way to quantify the unseen emotional scars that survivors suffer to this very day. The war as described in the many books and articles that have been written about it, is very different from the one described to me by Goranka. There were no political maneuverings or military skirmishes in her narrative. Diplomats were non-entities, while depravity reigned supreme. It was hard to imagine, the vibrant, beautiful, late middle aged woman that stood before me, sheltering from artillery fire in a war zone. Then again, it was just as difficult to imagine elegant, sophisticated Zadar under fire just thirty years ago. So much had changed for Goranka and Zadar since then. Along with her husband, she owns an entire floor of tastefully decorated guest rooms in an early 20 th century building. As Goranka recalled the war, my fascination with her stories was brought back to the harsher sides of reality. This occurred when she mentioned that during thunderstorms her nerves begin to fray. The boom of thunder reminding her of artillery fire and the trauma she experienced, a trauma that will likely never go away. Sadly, conflict seems to be in the DNA of the Balkans. It has slipped into the bloodstream of its inhabitants. There was always something to remind her, including in her own apartment. As our conversation began to lapse into silence, Goranka showed me one more reminder of the bombardment. One day during the siege she was in another room with her infant son. That was when she heard a loud crashing sound. An artillery shell came through the roof and right into her living room. I could see where it had been patched over. The damage may have been fixed, but a visible scar remained. Uncomfortable Truths — Speaking In Silences It was not the closed wound on the ceiling that bothered me. Instead, it was the mental scars that still lurked, the uncomfortable silences and the mental anguish those who lived through the war still suffered. There was a silence among the survivors that spoke loudest of all. Goranka reminded me that an entire generation of Croatians had been born since the war. While they may have heard stories about what occurred, they did not live through it. The difference between innocence and experience can never be bridged. A vast chasm exists between generations in Croatia. Between those who suffered and those who have only known peace. My conversation with Goranka would be the last time we talked during my visit to Zadar. There was no reason to speak again about the war. Enough had already been said. I greeted it with a sense of detachment. A palpable sense of unreality accorded the attainment of this long sought after goal. It had been twenty years since Zadar had come into my consciousness. Since then it had never left. The attainment of a long sought after goal filled me with satisfaction and depression. I felt vindicated, as though I had wreaked vengeance on my own doubts that this moment would ever come. I was curious to see if there was anything left standing in the city that would have been here in That was the year Zadar was sacked during the Fourth Crusade, a prelude to even worse that would come at the hands of the crusaders in Constantinople two years later. Though the street layout largely followed the ancient Roman one, most of the buildings were from the early modern or modern period. After an initial walk around the Old Town where I saw the usual trendy shops such as Tezenis, Zara and Swarovski that can be found in fashionable European cities and tourist destinations, I wondered if even a shred of structural evidence remained from the High Middle Ages. There turned out to be a few buildings and scattered stone remnants that stood at the time. These included St. Donatus Church and fragments of the ancient Roman city of Ladera, scattered around the old Roman Forum area which still went by that same name today. The most conspicuous of these remnants was a free standing column that had miraculously survived nearly two millenniums. It was the only one left in its original setting. I marveled at its staying power. The crusaders would have seen this column once they breached the city walls. Other than those buildings, there was little left from the early 13 th century. That was because the history of Zadar has been an unending succession of conflicts and conquests, violent upheavals and valiant defenses. This brought it to the attention of foes as well as friends. That attention often took a turn for the worse as empires, kingdoms, city states and republics vied for control. The destruction wrought upon Zadar by the crusaders was one of several massive transformations to its urban landscape. Ironically, the crusaders would most likely have never sacked the city if not for encouragement from the 95 year old blind Venetian Doge, Enrico Dandolo. Looting and pillaging Zadar Zara to the Venetians was a way for the Crusaders to pay back the debt they owed the Venetians for providing them with transport and supplies on their journey to the Middle East. The Venetians not only received some of the payment when Zara was sacked, the Crusaders also weakened a formidable rival of Venice. Zadar had been aligned with Pisa to protect themselves from Venetian control. The latter had already spent several centuries trying to subdue Zara. At times, it had succeeded in forcing the city to pay tribute. The Venetians coveted the city due to its central role in facilitating trade across much of the region. They wanted to incorporate it into their waterborne empire. They would finally do that in the early 15 th century and subsequently made Zadar their headquarters for the Eastern Adriatic. Once the Venetians gained control of the city, they set about building fortifications that irreparably changed the look and feel of Zadar. It took two generations to completely revamp the defensive works, making the Old Town nearly unconquerable. Renaissance and Baroque palaces were also constructed during this time. The city became a wealthy entrepot, but just as the Venetians had coveted Zadar so did the Ottoman Turks who ravaged its hinterlands. The sloping city walls made enemies think twice before mounting an attack. Looking at the thickness and size of these walls it was easy for me to see the seriousness of the Turkish threat. It would have taken some major firepower to breach these walls. The city was also protected by channels around the walls which were filled with sea water. They offer tangible proof of just how far ruling authorities would go to protect the city. No expense was spared in making the walls as impregnable as possible. Folling a short period of rule by France after Napoleon shut down the Venetians forever, the Habsburg Empire took over the city in the early 19 th century. The imperial authorities pulled down some of the walls to allow the city to breathe. The Austrians found other uses for the walls. Parks and walkways were built atop them during a long period of peace that lasted from — Zadar had never enjoyed such a prolonged period without warfare. Tragically, it would not last. From protection to recreation to preservation, the walls of Zadar went through a unique transformation. They were there more for show than security. Climbing atop them was now a leisure activity rather than a lookout. Little did anyone suspect that this peaceful era would give way to the cataclysm of modern war that would do irreparable damage to every part of the Old Town. The excesses wrought by Romans, Goths, Avars, Slavs, Crusaders and Venetians would pale in comparison to the destruction that would soon fall from the sky on the beautiful city by the sea. Such world historical forces as the Ottoman Turks and Venetians, for all their medieval and early modern age firepower, could not compare with the rain of destruction that aerial bombing and modern artillery could wreak upon the Old Town. The war to come would be the worst in human history and Zadar would be in the eye of that furious storm. Crossover Appeal — Old Maslenica Bridge Credit: Ex13 Modern Miracles — The Maslenica Bridge The Maslenica Bridge is one of those modern miracles of engineering that allow humanity by the hundreds to pass over a formidable natural barrier each day without giving a second thought to just how daunting such a passage must have been before the industrial age. The journey continues — Sunset as seen on the Rijeka to Split bus A Mad Habit — The Granting of Wishes The most absurd outcome of these excruciating acts of kindness was that those who needed a lift took precedence over the passengers who had paid a steep fee for at least eight hours of discomfort. Firm foundations — Ruins in Zadar Head Case — The Guillotine in Zadar Some stories are so revealing that they are worth repeating, one of which would make our free tour of Zadar a highly memorable experience. An open invitation — In Zadar. Remains of the day — Church of St Donatus and the Bell Tower in Zadar There turned out to be a few buildings and scattered stone remnants that stood at the time. The Survivor — Roman column in the Forum at Zadar. Subscribe Subscribed. Europe Between East And West. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website.

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