Buy Ecstasy Stubai Glacier

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Buy Ecstasy Stubai Glacier

Canmore has really taken off in the last 15 years—better food, coffee, more choices, and of course rapidly rising prices—most everything has gone up about 50 percent in the last few years. Communitea: Canmore is too expensive for hippies, but Communitea is where they would go if they could afford. Really nice owners, best cappuccino in town, organic foods, a really good addition to Canmore Downtown. Healthy organic bowls and such, lots of moms with strollers and people using the place as an alternate office free wifi. They also book some surprisngly good acts in the evenings too. Summit Cafe: Good breakfast food, crowds of active people scheming activities every morning, nice atmosphere, good morning sun on the deck. Lunch a little variable but the chicken club is solid. No dinner. Bagel Bakery two locations : Good prices, good food, weak coffee, open late on main street busy during the day , occasional live music in the evening. Their breakfast bagels are great morning food. Beamers two locations : OK coffee and simple food, open very early in the morning, fast service a rarity in Canmore zero attitude. One locaiton on the 1A, one right across from the post office Rusticana on main street. Common meeting place for guides and clients. Popular with locals, unknown to tourists in general. Bella Crusta: Best deal in Canmore for lunch, good and reasonable bread-style pizza toppings on big pieces of round bread, excellent lunch stuff across from the huge Stonewaters furniture store just off main street. The owner is a Canmore classic and good guy. In the industrial park near the police station on Elk Run. They also make their own meats, great place to get trip or BBQ food. Poutines of all styles, hamburgers, steamy hot dogs, limited tourists, always popular and just an awesome greasy slice of something different in Canmore. Inexpensive, and where you want to go after a day out in the mountains. No beer is the only drawback. Red Rocks Pizza: A really good value, nice owners, also have good beer on tap, local favourite for when you just want a decent pizza without feeling gouged or dealing with a scene. Limited seating in winter, but a big deck in summer. Georgetown Inn : Good climbing memorabilia, decent food, Brit-inspired pub. Cosy, chill, good for a mellow dinner and a few beers. Nice place to stay too. Spice Hut: An informal, post-climbing reliable go-to, always popular with my friends. Grizzly Paw Brewery : Good solid middle of the road pub food and beer. Not greasy, not gastro-pub, just good pizza, burgers, salads and a good staff. Iron Goat: Up in Cougar Creek the sunny side of the valley. A really good place to go for a pint in the bar, or a solid meal on the restaurant side of things. This restaurant was started by a friend of mine—he reportedly invested a lot of money because he was sick of not having anyplace in town to go to get a good beer and good food in the evenings. I think he succeeded in solving both his problems. Wild Orchid: One of the best places in Canmore. The bill for three people with some wine is really reasonable given the quality of the food. Sage Bistro: On the 1A in the old log cabin. All in all a surprisingly good place to eat given how it looks, with that rarest of rare occurences in Canmore, really good service. Crazy Weed: Expensive and worth it. Reliably good food, solid wine list, this is where you go when you want to get your big city on but mountain style. Good Healthy Takeout: An Edible Life sells ready-to-cook meals and snacks, great to take on the road or cook up. Rocky Mountain Ski Lodge: Good owners, nice rooms, good people. Kitchens and such in rooms too. The Paintbox Lodge: Nice boutique-style rooms and scene. Good restaurant as well. Alpine Club Hostel: Hostel-style, but clean, cheap, good place to find partners. Georgetown Inn : Non-chain, nice kinda frilly rooms. Close to the hospital if all goes bad, good food too. Where NOT to stay: No really bad places in town, with the possible exception of our futon. Lots of chain hotels and good basic places. Sheepdog Brewing: Good local scene off the beaten path in the industrial park. Good beer, basic snacks but you can bring your own. Music, drink specials, young stoked crowd. The Drake, Rose and Crown: Unpretentious bars with food. Right across the street from each other. Beer, food. Climbing Gear: Vertical Addiction, near Safeway, is a true small specialty store with just the right quantity of maps, shoes, ropes and other outdoor hardware. Valhalla Pure has a much larger selection of clothing, travel stuff and pots and pans, and also sells a decent selection of hardware. Climbing Gym, showers, weights, stretching, library, kid care. The climbing wall is a bit low angle and the bouldering sketchy when the wall is busy, as it often is, but the route setting has improved dramatically in the last couple of years, and the manager and staff are really solid people. The Canmore Climbing Gym is our bouldering gym run by the illustrious Sonnie Trotter and other local legends. Everything you need to climb 5. Avoid the after-work hours, it gets really busy, but chill the rest of the time. Gear Up: rents most ice climbing and mountaineering gear boots, ice axes, crampons, etc if you need some in a hurry, nice to have this service in a local shop. The staff there is also knowledgable about touring gear re-does skins, mounts bindings, etc , good people. Good selection of Red Bull too :. Fergies is up near Cougar Creek Canyon, and beside the Summit Cafe so convenient to have breakfast and pick up last-minute stuff before recreating.. Great Quebecois owner too. Cellar Door: Most of our small, independent liquor stores have been bought up by big chains. This sucked, but the Cellar Door is really good. Strong on great value wine, expensive craft beers. Buy Cheap Outdoor Gear: Switching Gear often has great deals due to local sponsored athletes surreptitiously selling surplus sponsor swag seriously. We have three solid shops in town. Rebound has gone increasingly Roadie, good staff the owner fixed up a year old burley with parts he had lying around, pretty cool. Excellent mechanics. Outside is a no-nonsense working class shop, solid mechanics and bike selection. Welcome to the Canadian Rockies, home of big ice, expensive beer and stoked people! For a general understanding of our season and ranges, check out this link. We reliably have ice from mid-October to early May or later. Check avalanche. That danger level and the terrain determines where to climb, not what we want to climb. Also look at it for winds, new snow, general mountain forecast, MIN reports, etc. Check ACMG site too. Look at social media, see below. Use the App for location info etc. Pull a Spot WX specific forecast for your potential climb. Check road conditions, links below. Avalanche Gear? Send it! The vast majority of the routes in the Canadian Rockies have some avalanche hazard. T his page is excellent information in its own right for anyone coming climbing here. The list for Kananaskis Country is currently unavailable. If you start with avalanche danger then route selection is much simpler, and safer. At the beginning of every season I start reading the avalanche bullets on avalanche. This is important because avalanches kill more ice climbers than anything else. So, I read this religiously, every day. But there is a lot more information on Avalanche. I look at both the ski and ice climbing reports how cool is it to have that feature! Often there are reports for the more popular areas, but I look at all of them. If skiers are reporting afternoon class 2 slides on features below treeline then that is excellent information! The Av Can weather stations are an often-overlooked resource. See the screenshot, but each little mini weather station logo has a variety of information. These are vital because they tell you how much it has snowed recently, and how windy it has been, trends, etc. The forecasts may lag this information by a lot—the stations are real time. The Ice and Mixed App has the Avalanche Terrain Exposure Scale for 99 percent of the climbs in the Canadian Rockies, as well as suggestions on where to go in higher avalanche conditions. If I have doubts then I start scaling it back. Public Weather Forecasts: How cold is it going to be, any big storms forecast, sun? Go run laps in a single pitch area, stay warm, have fun. I then hit social media for reports on what has been climbed and not. Facebook is about the best place for this right now, and there are two groups: Rockies Ice and Mixed Conditions is straight up conditions reports, usually pretty solid. These are reports submitted by guides, so generally solid. A lot of ski conditions, but also ice info. Research Access, Descent, etc. It also has GPS parking and route locations for about of the routes in the book, and GPS traces for several hundred. It will save you a LOT of time. Mountain project also has good info, and of course search the internet, a LOT out there. Many now have shading for slope angle, which can tell you a lot about the snow collection area and slide potential above a route. CalTopo is currently my favourite, but also available in FatMap etc. This just helps me stay organized, and think ahead. Or go toproping and enjoy that, yeah! I generally try to under-call the day a little bit so I have a margin in case something goes wrong. The precipitation line is VERY useful, same with wind direction, temp, just great. The better information you have the better decisions you can make. So I bring the gear at least in the car and usually to the base if not up the route, and this has become common practice here. Nights are long and cold here. These are awesome tools, just get one. Just get and bring an InReach. Road Conditions: Alberta British Columbia. Oh, and you can hire me :. Generally they are quite dry on the eastern side with a solid continental climate, and somewhat warmer and much snowier on the western side. The highest peak is Mt. Valley floors range from M to M, so big peaks despite low elevations. Increasingly good ice, normally low avalanche hazard, normally not brutally cold. Right around October 14th the ice season reliably starts in the Rockies on above-treeline North facing aspects. In mid-October the days start to get a lot shorter, and the sun just stops rising high enough to hit most north-facing terrain. This means that all the sheltered above-treeline north-facing terrain ATNF starts to freeze, and once the ground is frozen ice starts forming on top of it. Sport areas such as Acephale generally get too cold around Oct. Multi-pitch rock season is pretty much over around Halloween with the exception of the occasional day on Yam or other south-facing protected crags. For me the Banff Film Festival, in the first week of November, kinda marks the end of rock season. The good thing is that avi hazard is normally low, but not non-existent: Take gear, and be aware that we have major slides here in early November. Many of the early-season ATNF Ghost routes come in, this is the time to get them before the smears sublimate into snice or just fall off by mid-December. Take the very early or very late shift, I find this tactic takes care of the worst of the crowds. The routes in behind Fortress also come in early and are far less crowded as you have to, gasp, walk! The Stanley Headwall is likely forming up decently by mid-November. Nemesis is usually climbed for the first time around November 1st, sometimes earlier and sometimes later. The good thing about early season on the Stanley is that you can walk in. The bad thing is the same, skiing is a lot more fun. But little avi hazard. The avalanche hazard is generally low also, which means climbs can be attempted in gullies and across slopes. Melt-freeze routes are at their fattest, normally they will start sublimating and getting thinner by about the middle of November. Skis not normally needed anywhere. Wilson etc. The Stanley Headwall is in, and depending on the year the ski in is happening too. Normally enough in Field by the second week of December to climb. Skis needed for approaching bigger routes along the Parkway or the Stanley headwall, but not for anything else. Now the ice routes with lots of water coming down them are coming in or in. This means the avalanche forecast and being solid in your avi-hazard judgement is important. Cold, dark, dry, cold. Everything is in, but the days are short and often cold. People still go ice climbing lots. Still, there are lots of good days to climb, and everyone is motivated after the debauch of the holiday season. Historicaly, enough snow has fallen to be dangerous, but generally not enough to really sort the snow pack out or give a good base. Generally, the farther west you go in the Rockies the more snow there is and the better the skiing. That said, they can be useful occasionally. Mid-February to Mid-March. The sun is coming back slowly! More snow, ice great, not much alpine, odd day of rock. Some alpine climbing getting done, but the snow makes it a PITA unless you like skiing to peaks. Mid-March to mid-April: Ice great to fading low, snowpack stabilizing, skiing great. The lower south-facing routes are melting or melted out, and everybody wants to go rock climbing already but the ice and snow are still really good. This is a very dynamic time of year in the Rockies, with warm days and wet avalanches in the afternoon but cold nights, and it can still go to in mid-April. We also get big Pacific storms that drop a lot of moisture and last for a few days, then it takes a couple more days for the snowpack to clean up. But lots of sunny, fantastic ice climbing days still, and rock never feels as good as it does after a season of swinging tools. Many Canmore locals bust down to Indian Creek about April 1. The skiers are starting to burn out, but April in the Rockies is among the very best months to ski bigger lines and do the Wapta and other traverses. The glacial crevasses have their best coverage of the season, lots of light, often great snow on the north aspects, etc, game on if you can hold the stoke! The rock climbers are pushing the season at Bataan, Grassi, Echo Canyon and on Yam while the mixed crew is trying to finish off their projects before they melt out. The lower mixed areas such as the Cineplex and Haffner are normally done by early April. Mid-April to early-May: Spring down low, still good ice climbing and great skiing up high, often decent weather, getting wetter by mid-May. Slipstream and Riptide as well as other high ATNF rigs are still getting climbed, as are many winter alpine routes and some ice routes until the end of May. Rock climbers want warm stone in the worst way, but only about half the days are going to offer up the goods. Yam season for rock. The skiing is great up high too, but can be isothermic slop in the valley bottoms. Be extra aware of rockfall this time of year: The ground is starting to unfreeze or cycle, and whatever fell on the snow ledges is melting out. There have been a fair number of accidents on rock and ice routes from rockfall as that debris unfreezes and heads down onto rock and ice climbers. Take care on ice or alpine routes with cornices at the top, or snow that can release with a little warmth. Routes such as Hydrophobia and on the Stanley are often still good, but the slopes above the routes start getting sun. Same with Field. Respect the sun and rising temps up high. A lot more days are OK than people assume, you just have to get out and go climbing, the odd shower or something is no big deal. Down jackets are still getting used regularly. The rock at Lake Louise is often warm enough to climb on, same with dryer routes in Echo etc. It can be too hot in the sun one minute and then freezing… Yam is good, but the weather is funky in general. Paddling season is ON. July 1st to August 1 to maybe August 10th: Mountaineering season! Generally good weather with epic long days, rock is drying out, the peaks and glaciers still have enough snow covering the crevasses and talus for good travel, glacial travel is good, not too much rockfall, just a great time to be out in the high Rockies. Although not geographically in the Rockies, the Bugaboos are also really good this time of year. Yam and other south-facing rock can be too hot but often great with an early or late start to avoid the sun for example, Yamnuska goes into the shade around , light to 10 so lots of climbing. Lower-north facing crags in good shape, most time spent in the shade but still bring a big jacket most days. This is when the atmosphere has finally warmed up so freezing levels are generally high to non-existent in early August, and the crevasse bridges are getting really weak so easy alpine travel is ending. Ice faces melting out more and more these days also. This is when the bigger Alpine rock faces such as Howse, NorthTwin, etc. Thunderstorms can be an issue so go early and be done early, but this is about as stable as it gets in summer here in the Rockies. There are often big windows of good weather and minimal rain low or snow high. Late August is when the alpine rock routes are often in their best condition. Forest fire smoke has been an increasing problem since about If the summer is really dry to the west then smoke from those fires can be a real problem. Paragliding excellent too. September to mid-October: Trees losing leaves by mid-September, surprisingly good alpine rock. Hard rock projects are sent, the days are generally sunny, a great time in the Rockies. Upslope winds give orographic rain etc. Same with Waterton and the souther Canadian Rockies, very different weather generally. The upper Haffner zone also has a cave in it that is always above freezing. Smells like rat shit, but you can warm up :. What can I do about climate change? Why do anything? Melt water in Greenland. Disappearing ice on top of Kilimanjaro, really massive change in less than 5 years. I almost died when some permafrost let go above me while I was guiding, and a local mountain hut that has stood there for more than years is unstable now due to the permafrost melting. In short, climate change is very obvious and personal to me. But what to do about it? Use less carbon personally and professionally. See below. Show the world what I see so they can too, and publicly advocate for change with acceptance and respect, not anger or shame. The first step for me was deciding that what I was doing was a problem, and that I would try to do something about it personally. This was an eye-opener for me about what activities used the most carbon. We have to know the problem areas before we can mitigate our overall footprint. Our small station wagon gets over twice as good mileage as my truck. This is an option where I live, and seems to be decent. Solar better, but for now this seems better. An occasional Tuesday hamburger is OK. Maybe, some of your comments have me rethinking this. My chainsaw recently died, and I bought an electric one to replace it. It rips! Only do this as a last resort, but there are a few decent companies. Links below. As insane as this sounds, people get territorial over ice and rock climbs. Recently here in the Canadian Rockies we had a dangerous and odd situation arise between some visitors and locals that, of course, turned into the internet equivalent of an ice tool war. A group of active climbers and guides including some ice legends and stoked locals went to work on the idea, and came up with the following principles based on how we do things in the Rockies, subject to on-going editing:. Really it boils down to people recognizing that falling ice is dangerous, and then working together to keep everyone safe. Again, communication and respect are critical. In this situation the Vistors endangered the Canadians, but the Canadians should have spoken up and stopped the visitors from passing. In this case Green and his party continued above red, and pelted him with ice. In addition to the rope work being dangerous, the lack of communication between teams led to a really dangerous situation. Three Sisters Traverse Notes. Big thanks to Ben and Cia Gadd for the pickup, pizza and beer! The Three Sisters define the southeast skyline of Canmore like a black etch-a-sketch line across a blue sky. This summer Sarah Hueniken and I finally did it, and I wrote the below to share some information with other people who might be interested. I like it, and would do it again. All of the successful three to date? While I led it all free with no pins, I also felt it was generally a good place to get hurt without much real climbing joy. Several of the belays took a lot of creativity to build. Bring a pin rack if you decide to go. Unfortunately, Richard Boruta, a well-liked local biathlon coach, husband and dad to two younger kids, recently died when his rap anchor reportedly failed while rappelling off the Middle Sister. He, his wife and two friends were attempting to do the traverse starting from the Big Sister side, and rappelling down the technical rock climbs. Kananaskis Country Public Safety were able to long-line in and then climb two pitches to reach the three people before night, and left a few bolts in the process. When we climbed it we found zero fixed anchors and a lot of very bad rock. From the col you can walk down to the east and out Stewart Creek easily enough. It is also possible to go down to Three Sisters creek. The Littler Sister offers generally good climbing on decent rock, especially if you stay on route. Head up and east on a reasonable and possibly now improved for mountain biking trail? One pitch with a bit of a slab move gets you to a creative belay to the left of the crack on top of a small buttress, one or two shorter pitches gets you to a six-foot ledge. Traverse left or east here a ways then back up where it looks easy. There are some old pins etc. There are a few old pins and various rap stations along the way too. Beware the pins, I pulled one out by hand. Pins are not to be trusted unless you have a pin hammer. When you pull onto the big wide shoulder shoulder there will be some tempting corners and cracks up and left on a direct line, but this is not the line. On our first attempt at the traverse we climbed the direct line, roughly 5. While fun and exciting, this is not the correct line, and wildly out of character with the 5. For the correct route, walk across south the shoulder and down into the main gully to the south for a couple of hundred meters. Good fun climbing. Then beat up the rubble and join the ridge, few gaps and steps solved either with soloing or short pitches we short-pitched , summit. Descent from the Little Sister: You can downclimb and rap the steep bits the way you came up, which conveniently puts you back at the car. But most people rappel down into the col between and Little and Middle, then go out Stewart Creek. The rap anchors down the south side to the col have reportedly recently been replaced with good bolts. The old raps were OK with a single 80M rope, but not so great with a single 60 contrary to the books, a 50M rope will not be much fun. After a few three I think? If someone were to sort this pitch out with a direct line on bolts it would be a lot more fun. P3 or give or take. You may see some of the rescue bolts from the rescue here, they are placed for rescue purposes and not climbing, but are reportedly useful. Shit rock, bad gear, big fall potential. Building a belay took two nuts, a flake, and a small cam tied together. Compact rock. P6 takes you take to the ridge via more loose rock and run-out 5. If you could stay right or get on The Ecstasy and the Agony that would probably be better? Belay at a partially sheltered alcove on the left for the corner pitch. Work for shelter from rockfall here, you may need it…. P7, 5. Take care. This could be a pretty cool route if someone went up there and really built it. Cleaned the loose blocks, put stations in where they were protected from rockfall, it would be neat to have a cool traverse close to town. Bring a pin rack if you plan to retreat, want to aid either of the roofs, or generally want to make life easier for yourself. Even with a pin hammer old pins are suspect at best—you may end loosening them by whacking them. Getting back across the Golf Course is annoying. From the col to the top of the middle sister was about 6 hours for us. Easy walking from the top of the Middle. Start left and you can keep it to low 5th class for most of the climb. Where it steepens you can reportedly bust out left on the big ledge and then back right, but this seemed weak and weird looking so we went right onto the northwest face in a super-cool zig-zag pitch at 5. A neat little overhang protects the exit, but is simpler than it looks. Again, a little prep and time and this would be a really fun route, the rock is better than the Middle and the positioning is really cool. From the top of the Middle Sister across the Big Sister and down to the car was about 5 hours for us. The trail sucks too. Go down the ridge…. Good luck. I think we got a little off-route on the Middle Sister and wasted time by not brining pins. The whole traverse took us 16 hours car to car. Alpine climbing is awesome. Understand how the alpine environment changes dramatically every day. The mountains are sun dials, with predictable positive cold hard snow in the morning for walking easily on and negative rockfall, avalanches actions as the sun swings around the dial. Same with wind and snow. This knowledge is essential. You have to understand how cold it was the night before to predict how frozen things are going to be, or not. You have to have a model of how the sun, weather, and mountains interact, and be in the right place at the right time to have good conditions. This is critical. Observe, ask questions, learn, learn, learn… Watch the mountains and see when snow slopes cut loose with the sun or wind. Refine your model endlessly. Systems need to be appropriate. Three-piece anchors, solid gear, etc. Falling off roped together just kills more people, provides a false sense of security resulting in less solid movement, and the actual rope may hinder a self-arrest or proper step building. These are just examples I see in the mountains a lot—someone belaying a 5. Solid feet are everything. It all comes down to solid feet. It takes a long time to learn how to really get solid feet in snow, bad rock, iced up rocks, thin ridges, etc. Moving fast and confidently is good, but only if you can really predict the next step and have competence in moving onto the next foot, over and over. I spend a lot of time coaching movement in the mountains; not falling off all begins with solid feet. A lot of alpine terrain involves soloing or runout where a fall would result in terrible injury. Your best gear is solid feet. Leave early, fail early. It is way, way better to be back at the hut watching the lightning storm than it is to be on the summit experiencing that lightweight storm. Same with being caught out on a cold night, or in a snowstorm, or… Follow your time plan for the day, and if the plan is falling apart or the the day is changing go down. You can always go bouldering or something. People like this are wilful idiots, and will kill you both. Strive for competency, fun and success, not suffering. Get the craft, find solid training, read. Know how to climb a rope to get out of a crevasse. Know what isothermal snow or a windslab is, and why that may be an issue. Too many aspiring alpine climbers have shit alpine craft. I include myself in that category for much of my career. Expand your mountain model continuously. That model overlaps dramatically with alpine climbing, and vice versa. Every day you spend out in the mountains will teach you as much as you can learn if you listen, watch, feel, experience and make an effort to understand what is happening. This is the same as 1 really, just a more self-aware version of it. Go until something stops you. I see too many people who are stopped by their imaginations before even leaving camp. A lot of days are better than they seem, or worse, or just what they are. Fitness is number ten on this list, but most people would put it first. Fitness is good, but the above points are all way more important to competent alpine climbing. Be a better climber. Build better belays faster. Kick your feet more effectively in soft snow. Plan better. The moderately fit but skilled alpine climber will succeed far, far more often than the hyper-fit climber with a lower skill level. Skills first. Do a post-mortem on the day, week, year. What did you get right? Adapt to successfully? Really screw up? Learn from all of this. Repeat consciously, with humility. Get good partners who really like to climb. A surprising number of alpine climbers would rather talk about alpine climbing than do it. Avoid these people, they will suck your energy like vampires. No partner is perfect. Some of my best partners have been lazy, old and prone to sleeping in like me, but we got up some good climbs because they liked to climb, and our risk tolerances fit together well. Thanks to my many partners for the days, and their knowledge is all over these ideas too. Every day is a good day to come home. If you have that goal in your mind then good decisions tend to happen. Your ideas here. That is alpine climbing—you write the exam and answers based on your experiences…. I was fully bullshitting the interviewer to get the job of course, and we both knew it based on my inability to sit still for more than six seconds, but I got the job because I really wanted it, and because I knew something about the subject matter. I do work well under pressure that would kill many people, and that is great for high-stress environments. I do the same thing with a lot of stuff in my life, from presentations to writing—I sit down and figure it out, onsight. The trouble is that a lot of things in life get better results with pre-planning and well thought out attack plans. The reason I was good at onsight climbing is that I only knew how to climb onsight. How about my weaknesses? So I focused on doing more, and doing better functionally. Kayaking cleaner lines. Climbing more. Running harder. I still went to the gym and got stronger, but without the motivation of looking like Charles Atlas my motivation was pure performance. But I can move, and never wasted an hour doing bicep curls. I got strong at useful things. This morning I hit the gym and benched close to my body weight for ten times. I stress out, ruminate, and generally worry about life way too much. I have dry-heaved in eddies worrying about all the things that could go wrong. I have been so envious of some of my friends who just roll along in dangerous places, comfortable and serene. Attentive, switched on, but driven by anxiety and fear. Being concerned and aware of the bad outcomes is the key to avoiding those outcomes. One of the best guides I know is my partner, Sarah Hueniken, and she can hold her high levels of concern and worry for hours and days at a time. I recommend her a lot as a guide because of her worry. Likewise, my anxiety is, oddly, a strength. My weaknesses help keep me, my guests, and partners safe. Aw shit Ueli. I could see the strain in your eyes and the sharpness of your movement, and it was clear you felt a terrible load. It was a measure of your character that you cared so deeply, always… With time you moved forward, but when I heard the news from Everest today I knew the demons had caught you. They will catch all of us in the end, but damn, I wish you had stayed ahead for longer. You climbed, and loved it, and thought long and deeply about the mountain game. To realize great dreams you need great goals. I keep crying as I write this. For the guy who would get up before us and run over to the local bakery to get two fresh pastries for everyone but himself. Who shared his house and home and love when I lived there for months and we battled with the first ice world cup. Simon and I are just back in Kathmadu. We Climbed the your line on Northface of Tengkampoche, was a f…. Ueli was a good man before and after he was the Swiss Machine. That is the truth. Actually, the truth is bigger and far more important in its lesson to our own lives: He made himself into the machine. He busted his ass harder than anyone I know. Yes, genetics played a part for altitude, but his genetics were to be a cherub or perhaps hockey player like his brothers, not a ripped machine screaming into the ozone. You taught me that Ueli, and a lot more. He taught me how a bomb shelter worked, and how to find the hardware store in Switzerland when we built proto ice gear together. That was pure fun. So was drytooling in the pissing rain at an obscure Swiss crag. At the end of your last trip and visit here in Canada you left us a cheap spatula and some other bits to cut weight for flying home. I kept it, and kept using the spatula because I liked the way it reminded me of you. A cheap, transient plastic thing from a mentally rich, self-forged human is somehow fitting, and always made me smile when I flipped an egg for my kids or friends. You wanted to camp with your wife and enjoy the feel of the mountains even though you could afford any hotel you wanted to, and also made my small basement room with the terrible bed your home. I think that said a lot about you—that you choose mountains and people always over everything else. I liked our climbs and mountain time together I remember how you simply vibrated with stoke before starting up a big tall ice route a few years back, it was great! Had a few more glasses of wine, diet be damned. That was magic, and you sure had a lot of it. Aw shit, I wish it was all different amigo, that we were farmers in the Bernese Oberland years ago, and that we and all of our friends died of old age, and we could toothlessly chew grass stalks together in the evening sun and smile at fat cows. We chose a different path, and today your death makes me question my own path through tears. Goodbye and Merci Ueli. PS—There are many thorough obits out there for those who want to know more. I like t his one from Ed Douglas. As climbers we love grades. And we often set our challenges based on climbing grades. The route and grade was what it was, it was me that was all wound up. With time and work rock grades generally make sense to me, as long as a few basic ideas are understood. First, older routes and those graded under about 5. I like onsight climbing better than redpoint climbing, and routes with super-blind moves are usually where I get frustrated when I fall off onsighting. The redpoint feels like the right grade usually. I resisted this idea for years as I think onsight climbing is way cooler than redpoint climbing, but my resistance did not change the grading system or the stone. A 12a in France is going to feel roughly like a 12a in North America. But give someone a month or two of full-time work on a new type of stone and he or she will be back at the same level, and finding the edge of possible. And the routes tend to stay the same; bullshit grades usually eventually get adjusted to fit the stone and consensus. Ice climbing grades are another story. This is very different than rock climbing; imagine if a route was 5. The spread is massive on ice routes, and if we approach ice routes searching for difficulty based on grade problems may result…. Hanging onto your tools on a steep piece of fresh ice, locking off and swinging each time for one to five swings, is fucking physical, and the physical load spikes fast as the angle increases. Historic ice grades are therefore based primarily on angle, because it had an exponential effect on how hard it was to climb fresh ice. The difference between 80 and 90 degree fresh ice is massive when having to swing and lock off endlessly to build placements and clean fresh icicles. But the same route with a hoard of ascents is a ten-minute romp. Steep juggy fun 5. Footholds also tend to get a lot better with repeat ascents, further easing the experience. The older ice climbers who lack steep rock climbing experience or power tend to view steeper as disproportionately harder, which further weights angle in the grading system. So historic ice grades were often based primarily on angle, with ice quality part of that but not generally as big a factor as most climbs would require hard work to make placements for tools and feet. The work of putting in holds was an assumption inherent in the grade. Modern gear has also had a disproportionate effect on the ice climbing experience compared to gear in rock climbing. Modern tools, screws, gloves and ropes have all made things a lot more fun, but less difficult. That difference is meaningful, but relatively minor compared to ice climbing in the 80s where you had to crank screws in with a third tool while hanging on a POS tool with picks shorter than the screws you were trying to crank on. Interestingly, the modern gear often climbs relatively better on steeper angles than the old gear did, so again climbing angle was much much more important with the gear used when WI grades were defined. Flick a Cobra into vertical ice is very different than struggling to get an earlys Stubai into the ice…. So we have fitter climbers steep gym and rock trained on well-travelled routes so many more climbers with far superior gear. I can take a solid 5. But to safely lead a fresh, steep ice climb still takes a tremendous amount of knowledge, knowledge that is increasingly difficult to gain because there is less fresh ice to gain it on. The grade and angle are both less relevant today than they were when the grading system was created, but the quantity of ascents far more relevant. But if the WI 4 in Canada has seen little traffic, has some bad ice due to the big temperature fluctuations, and is in avalanche terrain… Some adaption is going to be called for or it will be handed out by the climb. Rad wild mushrooms and features are just cool to climb, like surfing a wave or deep powder skiing. Love it. The bigger point is that questing after absolute grades and defining the challenge of ice climbing by the grade is like defining the experience of skiing solely by the angle of the slope. A WI6 was probably rated for the angle in the 80s, and is simply an indicator of likely steeper climbing. Yes, there are exceptions, but big picture here. River grades as a number are also increasingly irrelevant today. The description and photos of rivers and ice climbs is more useful: Length, number of pitches, angle, avalanche hazard, exposure to sun, recent conditions reports. These are all far more relevant pieces for successful ice climbing than just the grade. Website by Total Brand. Food Breakfast: Communitea: Canmore is too expensive for hippies, but Communitea is where they would go if they could afford. Lunch Bella Crusta: Best deal in Canmore for lunch, good and reasonable bread-style pizza toppings on big pieces of round bread, excellent lunch stuff across from the huge Stonewaters furniture store just off main street. Dinner arranged in rough order of price Poutine: Low-end, friendly, Quebec-style awesome food! Ramen Arashi. My favourite. Great food, people, and as spicy as you wanna go! Canmore Hostel Great location, reasonable prices generally, young scene. Other Useful Stuff Climbing Gear: Vertical Addiction, near Safeway, is a true small specialty store with just the right quantity of maps, shoes, ropes and other outdoor hardware. Laundry: On main street beside the Grizzly Paw. Bike Shops We have three solid shops in town. Recommended Guides: Me. But more on this list soon! Research, Social Media I then hit social media for reports on what has been climbed and not. Posted in: Blog. Paragliding excellent too September to mid-October: Trees losing leaves by mid-September, surprisingly good alpine rock. Date: January 27th, What can I do about climate change? For me the answer has three parts: 1. I will pay a little extra for high-quality local food. Work in progress. Working on this. Educate others with respect, and be educated with grace. Engage in online forums as you would when face to face. Pack out trash, cigarette butts and excrement bring a wag bag to popular venues. Urinate away from the base. Have a backup plan for when others are on your intended route, if it will not accommodate multiple parties. Do not climb beneath, or pass others, without clear communication and a plan to which all parties agree. Multipitch climbers have right of way over those only climbing the first pitch of established multipitch climbs. Climbing beneath others is dangerous to you, and compromises their security. Plan your movement and belay stances to maximize shelter from ice fall, which can bounce far, and in unexpected ways. This may be on the approach, the climb or the descent. Play safe. Play fair. Play by the Code. Respectez le Code. Little sister: A worthwhile climb! Middle Sister: Looks good from afar, but far from good up close. Work for shelter from rockfall here, you may need it… P7, 5. P8-summit Up. Scramble and maybe a short pitch in here. Big Sister Start left and you can keep it to low 5th class for most of the climb. Go down the ridge… Good luck. That is alpine climbing—you write the exam and answers based on your experiences… Posted in: Blog. Goodbye Ueli. Date: May 1st, Aw shit Ueli. Ice Grades Ice climbing grades are another story. Flick a Cobra into vertical ice is very different than struggling to get an earlys Stubai into the ice… So we have fitter climbers steep gym and rock trained on well-travelled routes so many more climbers with far superior gear. Tweets by Gilwad.

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The ski resort of Sunday River has runs of all difficulty levels through forest glades. There is something for everyone here. Beginners love the wide highways, while experts can enjoy gladed runs and steep Double Diamonds extremely difficult runs. Leisure and intermediate skiers can also find a very good selection of easy to intermediate slopes. Top ski resort in Switzerland Schweiz. Select region. Ski resorts USA. Best ski resorts USA. Latest test reports. Snow reports USA. Only open ski resorts. Ski weather USA. New lifts USA. Planned lifts. Ski deals including ski pass. Ski holiday tips. Test result Evaluation criteria Awards. Current snow report Weather report Webcams. Ski course. Lift operator Tourist info. Slopes Sunday River. Easy Night skiing offered Sunday River. Feedback for the Skiresort. Please use this form ». Your email address optional. Transfer file optional. Book this ski resort. Hohsaas — Saas-Grund. Test report. Tips for the ski holiday. Top hotels for a ski holiday. Hotel Nesslerhof. Go to Website. Skiresort partners. Contact Legal notice Press. Links Company Login. Advertisement on Skiresort. All rights reserved. This website uses cookies to improve the online experience. Find out more.

Buy Ecstasy Stubai Glacier