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In the cult of the fine smoke, the region called the Vuelta Abajo is the be-all and end-all. Here, in a valley surrounded by gentle hills about miles southwest of Havana, is where the most sought-after grade of corojo is grown, the tobacco used as the outside leaf of a cigar. By nearly all authoritative accounts, a cigar wrapped in oily and fragrant Vuelta Abajo corojo is the best in the world. Known to the cigar enthusiast as the Habana Puro, this cigar is the equivalent of wine produced by the great French chateaux. But some believe that is changing and that the Puro is in trouble. Shifting tastes, a major challenge from the Dominican Republic, the lack of a U. Cigar smokers from boardrooms to barrooms will pay almost any price and, in the case of some Americans, break any law to get a Habana Puro. This is no small matter limited to a handful of plutocrats. Hundreds of millions of dollars and thousands of jobs are involved, as is one of the few positive economic sectors of Cuba under Castro. In , Cuba produced about million cigars, with million sold on the domestic market and the rest--by far the best--exported, mostly to Europe. Still, saw a disastrous downturn in the Cuban cigar business; exports fell 10 million short of industry projections. The root cause of the decline was a hurricane and unseasonable rains that hit the Vuelta Abajo at the peak of the February-March harvest period, destroying not only much of the precious crop but also most of the cloth that is used to tent or shade the wrapper leaf. Although neither government officials nor executives at Cubatabaco, the state cigar monopoly, responded to requests for interviews, other industry sources and diplomats based in Cuba provided some figures. In a recent interview in Cigar Aficionado, a U. In the past, the Soviet Union and its Communist allies either gave Cuba direct aid or traded goods for sugar at concessionary rates, which allowed the cigar industry to operate cheaply, the expert said. And while Cubatabaco was probably the most efficient industry in the country, the money it generates is sucked up by the government and not available for the cigar business. A recent tour of the , acres that make up the tobacco fields of the lush Vuelta Abajo showed no shortage of tents--at least in this key growing area--and the current harvest appeared plentiful. Officials of two of the Havana-area factories that turn out such quality brands as Montecristo and Cohiba also say that there has been no real shortage of quality filler and wrapper leaves, although the size of some wrappers has been difficult to maintain in severe weather, and cheaper brands have suffered. Until the Castro Revolution of , there really was no challenge to the Habana Puro. But when the United States instituted an economic embargo in to punish Castro for his strident anti-Americanism, the cigar market shifted measurably as non-Cuban manufacturers sought to win the U. Gradually, the once second-rate cigars of Honduras, the Dominican Republic and a few other Caribbean countries improved, particularly as the leaders of the old Cuban tobacco business went into exile, taking their seeds and expertise with them. In the process, some of them have developed cigars very close to--although not yet the equal of--the Cuban products, targeting a newer clientele favoring a lighter taste. The Habana Puro traditionally provided a strong taste and an aroma of pungent spices. While Cuban makers insist that their cigars remain the overwhelming favorite of true connoisseurs, they have also been quietly creating some new, milder versions. Yet in spite of all the gainsayers, the pessimism and skepticism about the future of the traditional robust Cuban hand-rolled cigar seems premature at best. According to sales figures in Spain and France, the two largest markets for Cuban cigars, not to mention the rest of Europe, the demand for the Habana Puro is increasing. Marvin R. Shanken, the editor and publisher of Cigar Aficionado, said the world market for Cuban Puros, excluding the United States, is as many as million cigars. In a telephone interview, Shanken, who has visited Cuba five times in the last two years, quoted Padron as saying he could sell at least 20 million more in the United States if the embargo were lifted. In fact, the attraction of Cuban cigars for Americans is so strong that Shanken estimates that 6 million to 8 million of the banned cigars make it into the United States regardless of the law. If you like a strong, robust taste with spice, the Cubans are as good as they ever were. De Los. Times Everywhere. For Subscribers. All Sections. About Us. B2B Publishing. Hot Property. Times Events. Times Store. Special Supplements. Share via Close extra sharing options. More to Read. More From the Los Angeles Times. California Navy identifies two aviators killed in crash near Mt. Rainier as California natives. Defense chief promises Ukraine what it needs to fight Russia but goes no further.

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