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Search Search. Menu Sections. Chequered tableloths flap in a gentle breeze under the shade of a simple tavern terrace. A late afternoon sun drips like golden syrup slowly into the shimmering Ionian sea. Then along comes a handsome, flirtatious waiter. Back then, I glimpsed this long, jagged coastline from the deck of a ferry that had left Corfu, before calling at two of her neighbours, Lefkada and Kefalonia, to pick up passengers and cargo. Zakynthos is busy, so you need to travel away from package-holiday hubs like Laganas in the south to get a true feel for it. A sleepy interior of picturesque hamlets, wedding cake monasteries and wild countryside are light years from the inflatable unicorns and non-stop TV football matches of the resorts. My first stop is Hotel Lesante Blu in the north-eastern village of Tragaki, where I spend a couple of nights. The set-up sympathetically blends into the landscape with its own private beach. No sooner have I collapsed on to a comfy beach bed than a waiter arrives with cool iced-water Tomorrow, the menu will move to Thailand, and the day after, who knows? From staycation secrets to the return of overseas holidays, our free newsletter brings you the latest in travel every Wednesday. Enter email address This field is required Sign Up. Skipper Dionysis Potamitis has promised to take us out to view the iconic caves; an early morning is bathed in brilliant blue skies, but the sea has an ominous swell. The wrecked ship MV Panagiotis sits where she ran aground in the small cove, allegedly while on a cigarette-smuggling mission from Turkey. Most holidaymakers view her from the cliffs above, but take care here too Sensitively reconstructed, its layout is faithfully preserved in the imposing squares and public buildings. When the Germans returned, they were given just two names and addresses, those of the mayor and the archbishop. People say it was our finest hour. Minutes after my taxi leaves the airport, for example, the consequences of years of economic crisis are on view. Beautiful views are at times blighted by overflowing, uncollected wheelie bins and illegally dumped refuse, a legacy of long strikes and a lack of public funds. But hope is on the horizon. Long after dusk falls, I sit in another tavern, Taverna Paliomylos near Loucha, spellbound. The sea dims to a mysterious murky indigo and a lazy cat comes out to stretch in splendour beneath my tavern table. Family-run Taverna Paliomylos literally hangs over the village of Loucha. Try the slow-cooked lamb with feta and potatoes, or traditional moussaka. Lots of tourists take the boat trip from Lithakia or Keri to Marathonisi, nesting ground for loggerhead sea turtles, but familiarise yourself with the environmental issues first. Drop by Therianos Organic farm, Kallithea village, for olive oil and wine tastings, or sign up for a yoga session in their gardens. See other eco listings on ecozakynthos. TUI tuiholidays. Holiday essentials like sun hats, flippers, beach cover-ups etc are cheap in Greece, and you save on luggage space as well as helping small, local shopkeepers. Pack an umbrella, too The Ionian islands hold their legendary green fertile hue for a reason. Already have an account? Log in. Think of a Greek island. What do you see? Snow-white houses and cool blue domes? Bobbing fishing boats and bougainvillea that truly pops? A to Zakynthos: Can you find the real Greek Islands on a package holiday? Isabel Conway splashes on a Greek getaway with a difference, exploring beyond the beaches on Zakynthos. Close Shipwreck beach on Zakynthos, Greece. Greek wonder: Sweeping Shipwreck Bay. St Dionysos church in Zakynthos town survived the earthquake. Lesante Blu Hotel, Greece. Photo: lesanteblu. Sea turtle. Traditional moussaka. Therianos Farm. Facebook Twitter Email Whatsapp. Isabel Conway May 25 AM. Facebook Twitter Email. Can life get any better? Close Lesante Blu Hotel, Greece. Travel Insider From staycation secrets to the return of overseas holidays, our free newsletter brings you the latest in travel every Wednesday. Close St Dionysos church in Zakynthos town survived the earthquake. Close Greek wonder: Sweeping Shipwreck Bay. Close Traditional moussaka. Close Sea turtle. Close Therianos Farm. Please register or log in with Independent. Read More September is the best month for travel, and here are 11 top places to go Travel September is the best month for travel, and here are 11 top places to go September is a lovely month for travelling in Europe. Latest Europe Sailing the Camino - now pilgrims can do the world's most famous walk by boat 'It's as if I've come in low season' - how Rome is getting back on her feet No kisses on cheeks, but a city 'reborn' - what's it like to visit Paris right now? 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