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A remote hike in Western Svaneti on the fine line between ecstasy and desperateness. The Western Svaneti, and the vicinity of Nenskra valley in particular, is known for an abundance of glacier lakes. And, of course, Memuli lakes, which we will cover here. While these lakes are slowly becoming popular among those who are looking for the next level of exploration and remoteness, they are still unknown to the broader public. The hike from Kvemo Memuli settlement down in the valley to the main lake and back takes only two long days. In case you want to add the third lake, you should consider one more day. The best season to head up to Memuli is probably from mid of July to mid of September. July allows longer days but also brings higher vegetation up to 2 meters , more insects, and the lake s could still be frozen; moreover, the third lake may be completely out of reach. Vice versa, September should reduce the level of bush walking noticeably, but days are much shorter, and you may face first snow. If you still have other hikes described as 'challenging but rewarding' on your agenda, you probably should go for one of those first. Memuli is a bucket list hike for experienced adventurers. Yes, the surrounding is beautiful, but you will encounter a variety of circumstances you may not be too fond of: hard to reach starting point; entry permit required; a steep mud road; a poorly marked trail, when it's needed the most; smaller and bigger river crossings; bush walking incl. Hence, both already demanding physically, your mental resilience will be tested as well. As of now, there are a total of three Memuli lakes. The first lake on about 2. The second lake at 2. Lake three lies on 2. Water is easy to access on many parts of the trail before you start the steep last kilometer up to the second lake. Good spots to refill are the campsite at Kvemo Memuli; a small forest creek shortly after the Memuli waterfall; all way along the upper part of the Tskhvandiri river especially around Zeda Memuli ; and at the lakes themselves. Also, the border police will be happy to help out if needed. While Chuberi itself will offer you various guesthouses and plenty of families ready to host you, on the trail, the summer settlement Kvemo Memuli and the area around the lonely hut at Zeda Memuli are your best picks for camping. Once you passed the latter, you have to make it all way up to the main lake or turn around as the area in between is either too rocky or too steep to put up a tent. At the second lake you will find maybe seven or eight nice spots , and you may even camp down to the lake if snow allows. The third lake offers possibilities as well, though less in number. Due to the vicinity of the Memuli lakes to the Georgian-Abkhazian administrative boundary line ABL and the Russian border, you need an entry permit for this hike. As you probably have to manage everything with the Chuberi unit in Georgian our experience , you may want to fill in an application upfront on the website of the Georgian Border Police or contact them through Facebook. Your best choice is to take one of the regular marshrutkas to Mestia and to get off some minutes behind Khaishi at the small restaurant Tobari , at the mouth of the Nenskra valley. Especially for Tbilisi and Kutaisi it is better to call in advance and to be there in time as spots are rare. Once off the bus, take the smaller non-asphalted street on the left towards Chuberi right is going to Mestia and put up your thumb. Though it may take you two or three rides, this is still way more comfortable than walking additional 20km on dirt roads to the Chuberi border police at the very end of the commune. Alternatively, you can try to arrange a local driver e. Independent on how you travel, ensure to stay on the western side of the river once you left the center of Chuberi as you have to get to the border police before starting the hike. Once in Tita, the first all-year settlement, your chances to catch a ride are increasing with every meter closer to the commune center. Once you are back at the Mestia-Zugdidi Street you can hope for another hitchhike towards Zugdidi or stop one of the marshrutkas coming from Mestia. Your first day starts at the main building of the border police in Chuberi. Here, you must register and get your permit, which you also have to show to a second post some five kilometres further up the river. As tourists are rather rare in that area, the entire procedure may take about an hour and several calls with the superiors to avoid any mistakes. Have some mean of identification with you, a proof that you know the way gpx file on your phone or hiking map and indicate the number of days you plan to stay. Be aware, that there is no phone service at all on the way up and around the lakes. Hence, in case something goes wrong, they will only come for you after your planned hiking period is over. Once the paperwork is done, head to the north where you will pass by the remnants of the big metal bridge, which has been there until a big landslide in It is still on most maps, and we were told, that it shall be put back in autumn , when the Nenskra river is lower again. Anyhow, I would not rely too much on that promise and the small hidden trail along the water is also more scenic and enjoyable than the dirt road on the other side. In case you want to reach Kvemo Memuli — the start of the actual ascend — by car, you must turn around and take the small bridge called 'Mokle' Georgian for 'short' between Kari and Lari about 3km or the big metal bridge in the commune centre about 7km. On foot, you will soon come to a point where a wide forestry road is leading upwards. Here, stick to the small nearly hidden path right next to river. After 2,5 kilometres the scenery will change to a forest setup and another kilometre later you will find yourself on a meadow. Shortly after you will come to a big and unappealing gravel track and pass through a small nameless settlement. Before you finally come to the summer farms of Kvemo Memuli you will have to report yourself to the second, smaller border police checkpoint — on the way back you also have to come here and leave your permit with them. After a total of two to 2,5 hours you should reach a number of huts and the information board about the hike. Set up your tent some meters behind along the small creek and call it a day — just pay attention that you are not too close to the free walking bulls and dogs. While you will only walk 6,5 kilometres today, you should take off in time as you may need a total of eight to ten hours up to the lake. From the trail sign, follow the wooden fence into the forest and find yourself on a wide, dry, and steep forestry road. Follow it for a bit more than a kilometre until a crossroad — at this moment you managed already metres in height. Here, look up right and try to find a white-yellow-white mark on a big tree in about 15 metres distance. Behind it is a small well-trodden track, although the start may be covered by fallen trees. In case you missed it and followed the more inviting wide road on the left, no worries: you can walk this one as well until its end, fight your way some metres up through plants and meet the actual trail around a marked tree see gpx. Just several hundred metres later you will already encounter a massive single standing stone in the mid of the forest; go around it on the left and enjoy the refreshing breeze of the Memuli waterfall. From here, enter the forest again. Soon, the path gets gradually steeper and also more overgrown. After a total of three kilometre, you will reach the tree line about 1. From here, follow the river for another kilometre until you have to cross; in case vegetation allows you to spot all trail marks you might be able to find the intended location. Anyhow, there are several manageable options and you either way will have to cross several smaller and bigger streams at least one more time until you reach the dried area in between the two main arms. Important is to head in north-west direction and come along a big single-standing marked boulder. From here it is another kilometre until you face the steep, green ascend to the second Memuli lake on your right side. For those even more adventurous turn westwards and find your way along Okrilatavi 3. As roughly indicated in the picture above, there are three different possibilities to tackle the way up : The western route blue , which continues on the dry riverbed and turns rocky and steep towards the end. The central route pink; is described on Day 4 as an option down , which shares majority of its way with the western route and traverses the last part on a steep grass ascend. The eastern route orange; marked by GNTA , which is described in detail below. Locals recommended the eastern path to us; anyhow, all three options have their pros and cons. By distance 1,5 kilometres and elevation metres they are all basically the same; the question is more which terrain you prefer the most, where to tackle high vegetation, and when to manage the biggest gain in altitude. To be honest, they are all not great and it will take you up to four hours either way. The eastern route has the advantage to start rather smooth as you walk the first about metres diagonal up to a marked big rock on 2. From here on it turns very steep comparable to the steep ascend from Shovi to Udziro lake and you have to climb on all fours — either through a narrow, slippery, rocky riverbed or in parallel to it through very dense and high undergrowth, which does not allow to know where you actually step. Around two hours after starting the steep ascend you will reach first rhododendron fields on about 2. Soon you will enter a nicer-to-walk rock field; by looking up to the peaky ridge in front of you, you can also already imagine how you will reach the lake. Towards 2. You can either continue on the stone field or already turn towards the greenish area. Some metres later you will reach the first campable, flat spot since Zeda Memuli and another 15 minutes later you will finally reach your destination, the second Memuli lake. Once settled, allow yourself a small evening stroll to enjoy the setting in all its beauty. Head uphill from your camping spot to get some nice evening views on the lake and the small, slightly higher side valley where the stream feeding Memuli is originating. Due to a still considerable amount of snow on the southern side of the ridge and the warnings of the locals that the trail is steeper on the northern slope, we skipped to take that risk. Until finally walked and described by Caucasus Trekking contributors, you can find some some photos on Bisna. From your camping spot head basically straight up north towards the Kodori range — not into the small snow-covered side valley. Here, you will rather steeply traverse your way up through rocky formations. Soon, you should reach the highest point around 3. Then be prepared to lose about metres of altitude in less than metres of distance before you continue your way northwards on that level. On your left-hand side you should be able to see parts of the glacier, on your right-hand side you may have the chance to spot the first Memuli lake about halfway some metres lower. To increase your flexibility and speed in this steep terrain you may consider leaving your tent behind at the second lake and continue with a daypack. As there are a total of three options for ascend, it also allows to differ the descend a little and to gather some more impressions from the surrounding. For the central and western route, head south-west to the opposite side where the lake has its outflow into the Tskhvandiri valley. Here, you have perfect views in both directions and can enjoy the lake panorama a last time. The central trail pink now first leads a bit inland towards the eastern route and then takes a big bow in western direction. As of now, the overall direction is more important than the exact path as one may prefer rocks over grass, or vice versa. Soon you will find yourself in or a long a rather dry small riverbed leading downwards; shortly after already at the point where the western blue and central route join on a small ridge. From here you will have to cross two stone formations in only some minutes: the first assembles stairs; the second is more like a long tube — both may not be too much fun with rain. Once you passed those two landmarks, you are free to find your way down into the Tskhvandiri river: either through the dry riverbed in the west or through the grasslands in the center. The recorded trail is a mix of both as it starts on the green but then turns towards the rocks as the vegetation simply got too high — earlier may have been better. As the trees separating grass and riverbed get very dense, very early you unfortunately will not have too many options to change from one terrain to the other. Just as for the ascend, the descend of those metres of altitude will take you some four hours. From here, just take the same route as up: stay on the dry area between the two big river arms, look out for the big, marked boulder, and cross the water at a shallow spot. Once done, follow the river until Zeda Memuli and then through the forest to Kvemo Memuli. Put up your tent and take some rest from a long and exhausting day. The way back from Kvemo Memuli to Tita is easy and straight forward. Just follow the dirt road, report yourself to the smaller border police station, and after an hour you should find yourself already in Tita. From here on, just check for cars which may speed up your way down to the centre of the Chuberi commune — if you feel like it, about halfway you will pass a hut with mineral water. Once you have phone service again, just text or call the headquarters of the Chuberi border police; no need to pass by physically but they highly appreciate some additional confirmation that everything is all right. Duration: days The hike from Kvemo Memuli settlement down in the valley to the main lake and back takes only two long days. When to go: The best season to head up to Memuli is probably from mid of July to mid of September. Download files GPX. Difficulty: Very hard If you still have other hikes described as 'challenging but rewarding' on your agenda, you probably should go for one of those first. Counting of Memuli lakes: As of now, there are a total of three Memuli lakes. Trekking permit: Due to the vicinity of the Memuli lakes to the Georgian-Abkhazian administrative boundary line ABL and the Russian border, you need an entry permit for this hike. How to get to Chuberi: Your best choice is to take one of the regular marshrutkas to Mestia and to get off some minutes behind Khaishi at the small restaurant Tobari , at the mouth of the Nenskra valley. Trail parameters to 2nd lake Distance Hydro Power Plants in the area While the Korean-Georgian joint venture JSC Nenskra Hydro is already changing the landscape of Nenskra and the neighbouring Nakra valley since its start of construction in , now also the Memuli river seems to be of interest for a possible smaller HPP. Based on the public information of the Public Private Partnership Agency of Georgia, the Memuli Hydro Power Plant is currently in the second evaluation phase, which means final scoping, power line, and feasibility reports have to be written and approved. Although the hiking trail at least to the second lake should not be affected according to the three scientists we met, somewhere close to the glacier a dam will be erected and a three-to-five-kilometre long waterpipe system 10 centimetres in diameter will lead down into the valley. The supply and construction streets will apparently be further north through another gorge — which may affect the path from the second to the third lake. Day 2: Kvemo Memuli - Second Memuli lake distance 6. Day 3: Third Memuli Lake and back optional distance 5. View on way up beginning of August Junction of western and central route. Stairway to Memuli. Day 5: Kvemo Memuli - Tita distance 4. Back to top.

TREK TO MEMULI LAKES

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The first part of the diary can be found here. You wait with pounding heart You know it's just the start 'Cause you're breathless, ready to burn Breathless, willing to learn Breathless, the circle still turns You're breathless. A day of waiting. We spent it practicing on the glacier with crampons, ice axe etc. It was windy but sunny, truly perfect conditions. Traversing the glacier, crossing crevasses, practicing with ice arrests and crevasse climbs — we had a lot of fun in the amazing scenery. During the night, one group was ready to go but the conditions were far too bad at 2 am. Therefore, they decided to hold off for one day and join all the other groups for the Sunday summit day. There are many deaths on Kazbek and going solo up this mountain, no matter how experienced is incredibly stupid. Whilst we were there, a young Norwegian went up on his own as the rest of his group did not go due to weather. Luckily for him, he managed to get back to the hut just as dusk fell. Many of climbers there had words with him about his stupidity as there may have had to be a search party sent out for him which could potentially put other lives at risk. That evening all the groups went to bed early having prepared all the gear for the following day and set the alarms for There's a darkened sky before me There's no time to prepare Salvage a last horizon But no regrets from me Maybe I'll be back some other day To live again just who can say In what shape or form that I might be Just another chance for me. Finally, the summit day has arrived. At we all got up, assembled in the kitchen, stuffed ourselves with carbohydrates, filled the tea flasks and prepared the water bottles with isotonic. The gear was checked and double checked. Finally, the moment had come at We switched the head torches on and started to walk up and down around and around the moraines rocks. The trail from the hut changes every year. It is usually well away from the Khmaura wall as there is constant rockfall, especially late in the day as the ice and snow melts. The guides skill in finding their way through the dark along a track which has small cairns along the way is phenomenal. It is hard to navigate even in broad daylight on the way back. After an hour or two we had a stop and I took the opportunity to add another layer of clothing. The group started to move before I was ready and in order to catch up, I broke my rhythm which is important in thin air. For a few minutes, the others had to wait whilst I caught my breath and adjusted my breathing accordingly. A lack of sleep over the previous few days and maybe not enough liquids although I never drank so much tea in my life may not have helped but apart from being somewhat slow on the descent, I did not have any other major breathing issues that day thankfully. Finally, we arrived at a section of the glacier at around , a few kilometres away from the Meteo station just as dawn was breaking. There we put on the harness and crampons and once again double checked our equipment. The sun spread its golden glow over us all, but there was no time to admire the scenery for too long as it was very cold and we still had a long way to go. The guide zig-zagged his way through the crevasses till finally, we arrived on the Maili plateau at around m. No sign of Russian border guards here so we can proceed with no further ado. Here the track was narrow and before and behind us various groups of two, three and five could be seen, all roped up. Gradually, as we proceeded the looming summit appeared and soon we were at its base. Now here was the tricky zig-zag up to the first small plateau. Here I had a problem with my crampon as it became loose, fortunately, the guide was able to fix it using his ice axe. At a temperature of minus ten and a significant wind chill waiting for rescue was not an option, and going down the slope with one crampon was not to be recommended either. We drank some more tea and the final ascent followed. This was eight zig-zags up a degree angle slopes - number five and seven were particularly treacherous as the track was narrow and there was only ice to stick the axe into. After a long and difficult ascent, we finally reached the top. What relief, what joy, what ecstasy! It was a first mountain for all the group. Joy was unconfined even though we were all exhausted. Ten minutes of tea drinking photos and smiles followed. As I had foreseen, the zig zag no. After a few hours, we finally reached the rock-filled moraine section, took off our crampons and harnesses. We could hear and see to our left that there was constant rockfall which was far enough away to be not too worried but also close enough to keep an eye out for a bouncing boulder or two. Eventually, we arrived back at the Meteo station. Since this day most of the people had reached the top, it was a very happy place to be that evening. Also, even though I had sunblock, lip gloss and sun factor fifty liberally put on over the day, I still got burnt. The descent was for am. We packed our gear and waited for the horses to bring the heavy equipment down. It was a long 6 days. We walked down to the glacier and put the crampons on for the final time. To avoid the river at the base of the glacier, we took down a different route. There was a famous Polish climber who descended with us and we were stopped by numerous Polish people looking for a word or photograph. Sadly, we learnt that the following day one of these young men died because of altitude sickness which totally took the gloss of our climb. After six hours of gentle descending, we arrived at the Gergeti church and were picked up by our driver. We were then driven to a nearby village to a restaurant and had a sumptuous lunch. But beforehand naturally, I had to have a Kazbegi beer to celebrate. So, cool so sweet. After stuffing ourselves with the first non-packed fresh meal in six days it was back to the guesthouse for the long-awaited shower. That evening there was a debrief and another supra. Since we were all stuffed, the plates were not emptied that night. The following morning, we handed back the rented gear and it was off to the battered marshrutka for the journey back to Tbilisi. Home Blog Active page Mt. Kazbek climb, part 2 by Fergal Hingerty. Sunrise over Kuro ridge. On the glacier. Light spreads over Ortsveri mountain. On the Mali plateau. Views from the route. Final zig-zags. Views from the climb. Summit photo. Kazbek from the Arsha pass. Tsminda Sameba church below. Back to top.

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