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So there I was, on holiday in North Korea. I had signed up for a tour in Rason, a Special Economic Zone in the northeast corner of the country, and we had arrived in the middle of a fresh bout of North Korean sabre-rattling. As is generally the case with tours to North Korea, I had visited as a part of a group; however, this was no ordinary group. The details of that tour — as well as my own reflections on visiting the country at a time of seemingly imminent war — are the subject of another post on this site. What follows here, are the parts I left out. Having him around certainly seemed to unlock doors for us; doors which usually remained firmly closed to tourists. On the standard North Korea tour package, a group will be allotted two Korean guides. Fearful of getting into trouble with their superiors, most North Korean guides err on the side of caution. One of the first places we were to visit was the local bank. As we arrived, two Korean girls in make-up and high heels were struggling to carry a sports bag, heavy with banknotes, to the back of a waiting taxi. Inside the building, security seemed slim; business was not conducted through bullet-proof glass like the banks back home, but rather over tables in a series of simple offices. We queued up to change our Chinese yuan into the local currency: North Korean won. I was aware just how unusual this was; the majority of tourists in the DPRK will be spending Chinese or US currency, and are usually restricted from handling the local notes. Carrying roughly one quarter of a million won between us, we headed down to the market. He had reported the theft to his embassy, and pushed for recompense from the North Korean tourism industry. As a result of the international drama which followed, North Korea decided it would be simpler not to let foreigners enter the market at all. Mr Kim made a few calls, and pretty soon we were heading inside. We were urged to leave our wallets on the bus, instead taking a handful of local banknotes concealed in an inside pocket. Cameras were also strictly forbidden. The market was a sprawling maze of wooden tables, overflowing with everything from fruit to hand tools. Immediately upon our entrance, a wave seemed to move through the crowd as several hundred pairs of eyes turned to assess the intrusion. As our group separated, moved through the stalls and began to mingle with the bemused locals, our Korean guides floated about us like owls on speed. It was interesting to see the range of reactions that our presence elicited from the unsuspecting people of North Korea. One elderly man in a tired military uniform followed us through the market, scowling from a distance. Several times I felt tiny hands patting at my trouser pockets, then turned, to see dirty-faced children peering out from the crowds. Things were to get a whole lot stranger though, as we approached the covered stalls at the heart of the market. Shoes, toys, make-up, cigarette lighters and DIY tools that look around 40 years old; clothing, military uniforms which we were forbidden from buying , spices, chocolates, soft drinks, dried noodles, bottled spirits, beer and a whole aisle lined with mounds of dry, hand-picked tobacco. We were just walking past the tobacco sellers when we spotted another stall ahead, piled with mounds of green , rather than brown, plant matter. It turned out to be exactly what we first suspected: a veritable mountain of dried cannabis plants. No one seemed to have a problem with us buying the stuff, and so we decided to put it to the ultimate test: purchasing papers from another stall before rolling up and lighting comically oversized joints right there in the middle of the crowded market. At another stall we bought live spider crabs for our dinner, before leaving the market to continue the grand tour of Rason — with just one difference. From this point onwards, every time our group was walking on the street, sat in a park or being shown around some monument or other, there would be at least two fat joints being passed around. Later that day, we visited a traditional Korean pagoda situated in a nearby village. That night we settled down for a meal at a private dining room in the Kum Yong Company Restaurant. I guess the same could be said for five-star restaurants the world over, though. One member of the group was celebrating a birthday, and the cake was the first thing to reach our table. This was followed by the usual selection of hot and cold platters kimchi, salad, fried eggs, battered meat and bean sprouts while the kitchen prepared the crabs we had bought from the market earlier. All this time we were rolling joint after joint, without tobacco, and the air in the room was thick with sweet, herbal fumes. In fact, coming back from a trip to the facilities I was almost unable to find my chair again — until my eyes grew accustomed to the haze. It was just the dried leaves, a far inferior product to what one might find in the West; but the taste — and the effect — was unmistakable. Besides, mild or not, at the rate that we kept rolling them it soon caught up with us. Once or twice the waitress came by to collect plates, and, coughing, made mock gestures of trying to sweep the clouds away with her hands. In the corner of the room, a small television set was doing all it could to keep us abreast of important current affairs. The news presenter — an impassioned middle-aged woman with immaculate hair — was talking about a potential attack from South Korea, about US manoeuvres on the Korean Peninsula. Suddenly I remembered that I was in a country threatening to launch nuclear warheads against its neighbours, and that the whole world was holding its breath to see what the next days would bring. The news programme came to an end, and was replaced by a film in which a Korean girl roamed the mountains in a fierce storm, looking for her lost goats. The waitress brought more beers, shots of the local rice wine known as soju , and someone passed me a joint. I had already forgotten about the nuclear war. We were sat around drinking beers in a hotel bar, just across the town square from our own lodgings. Here the waitresses were taking it in turns to sing for us, clutching cheap Chinese microphones as they performed note-perfect renditions of one Party-approved karaoke classic after another. Many of these songs had once been written to celebrate the anniversary of a military victory… while each of the North Korean leaders is given their own orchestral theme check out the Song of General Kim Jong-un , for example. It was a pop song called Whistle that really got stuck in my head though, as it seemed to be on constant cycle during our trip — playing in shops, restaurants and offices. Sat around a long wooden table, we were drinking beer with our Korean guides — who up until this point had eschewed the weed. I sat next to Mr Kim, who, dressed in his usual dark suit and glasses, looked every part the intelligence officer. He was snacking on strips of dried fish to accompany his beer, and he offered me some. By way of a polite gesture I offered him a joint in return, very much expecting him to refuse it. Instead he smiled, winked, and put his arm round my shoulder as he started puffing away on the fat paper cone. Things got even more bizarre when the Russians arrived — a group of dock workers from the Vladivostok region, currently on leave in Rason and keen to get some alcohol inside them. The first time I visited North Korea I saw the famous monuments in Pyongyang , visited the Korean Demilitarised Zone in the south, but remained very much aware of my distance from the world around me; I often felt as though trapped inside a bubble, which prevented any kind of real interaction. This article got a lot of media attention when I published it back in … and much of that attention focussed on a claim I shared in the original version: that cannabis use was legal in North Korea. I have since learned that this is not the case. NK News have taken down their article on the subject, and my own article above has been edited to remove all unverified claims, and now simply reflects my own personal observations on this trip. Notice: It seems you have Javascript disabled in your Browser. In order to submit a comment to this post, please write this code along with your comment: cc2ec8d97ca98a9edba4f What you are reminscining on is the real mellow weed high and also naturally lower thc level as well.. Such an interesting article, most of people are commenting about the weed experience, which is truly amazing. Also I was wondering how the russian fishermen can come in town without a guide and just drink in bar like they do at home. Anyway thanks for sharing your experience it was great to read. Just watching the very different ways that things work over there. The idea is to encourage more business and trade with neighbouring countries. It seems to be true that cannabis use is illegal in North Korea. It is also true that the plant grows there wild, though; and that the Korean people have a long history of using the plant for recreational purposes. Thanks, Ricardo. How did you organize the tour? Could you share the name of any websites you used? Hi Max. Are you sure that was weed? Like, positive it was weed? It just looks like a bag of leaves to me! I wonder what you feel the daily life is like for the average North Korean. Then I learned a few months ago about weed being at least more tolerated there than in most countries certainly more than Japan! So it made me wonder how much of my image of North Korean life is just completely a made-up one. Anyway, great post! I honestly wish I knew. I think we all know people who are content to work hard, and enjoy their limited holidays somewhere local with friends and family. Anyone who was content to live on simple pleasures, was happy obeying fairly draconian laws and had no ambition to travel or question orders — and these people do exist — well, chances are, they might be genuinely happy living in North Korea. However, this says nothing about the millions of people living in areas with less developed infrastructure, with poorer housing, limited heath care and without the comforts afforded by a relatively well developed city such as Pyongyang. And even in the best cases, people must still be very aware of the freedoms they can never have travel, for instance. You are aware that all tours that go to Rason include a visit to a bank to change money? And a visit to a market? Sounds like your guides were concocting a drama for you all! No, I had no idea about the market… Do you know how long that has been the case for? They made a huge fuss about it not usually be allowed, as well. Thanks for mentioning this! Did you read some of my other posts about North Korea? You might like this one , for example. As I mention in that account of visiting Pyongyang, the tourist experience in North Korea is actually very safe and free from hassle. At the end of the day, they want your money — so tourists are always given a very friendly welcome. Hello, are you sure that what you smoked was really weed? Hi Selina. Besides, cultivated or not, the plant grows wild in large parts of China and North Korea. Sorry, do you know if they also have Snake wine there? Like the one in the bottle that many Asian people drink? I feel like to go shopping if they have it cheaper. Thank you for your replies. Yes — Snake wine is a big thing there. They prefer this than me going out and taking photos everywhere? How potent is the weed there? I imagine they North Koreans do not have enhanced seeds and hydroponics like in the west, the fact that its cheap gives the impression that it is not that good. I lived in Zambia for three years, the weed was terrible but incredibly cheap, I just have to ask, how good is the weed. It could easily have been picked from a roadside and dried overnight. Text or call us on for quick response. We do Overnight shipping and very discrete. Contact for more information We have high quality medicinal marijuana and other best strains of kush for sale at moderate prices. All medical marijuana is provided only by personal medical marijuana patients that currently have extra medications. Contact Form for fast fast responds. Normally I filter all marketing comments as spam, and flush them straight down the virtual toilet. But this one made me laugh — so it can stay. There might be a North Korean cannabis-smoking culture, but as an easy to grow high protein food source, cannabis is hard to beat, hence its popularity there. Also, North Korea grows hemp for industry. Wow, most good articles on North Korea are rather mind-blowing, but this one has to be the most jaw-dropping, straight-up shocking one I have yet to put my eyes one. Congrats on your once in a lifetime trip and thank you for sharing all this with the world. Wonderfully written article on what has to be one of the least covered topics ever! Original does not even cut it! Really high praise indeed! Good question. Not so much, that I saw — it appeared to be such a normal thing, so understated, that it seemed more like the way we might chew gum in the West. Something people do without a fuss, without ceremony. Suddenly, Kind Kim seems less a threat than the pearl clutching talking heads claim.. Maybe the West is just getting the negotiations all wrong… should be heading over to Pyongyang with a peace pipe instead. You are shockingly stupid. Run your theory by a few of the hundreds of thousands of North Koreans who are imprisoned in the North Korean gulag system. Which theory do you mean, exactly? This post is more about observations than theoretical discussion. Are you able to help me with a means of reaching them? How many times have you been to North Korea, by the way? Or did you just pick up your insights from Fox News? I might even make a point to those who listen to American media by saying that the freedoms that matter are restricted the same everywhere, we just THINK we have more because they let us follow mind-numbing pop culture and have Facebook accounts? Kind of on par with a dictatorship when you think about it, just with the illusion of free choice to keep the people happy instead of legal cannabis, maybe? I do agree with you, that many of our perceived freedoms in the West are less than they actually appear. Visits North Korea — Gets to visit outside the Circle of trust. You Win the best N Korea story ever in my book — no one else will ever match it. Tyrannical rulers love to do whatever it takes to keep their citizens distracted from the stark realities of their rule. Knowing, personally, how much hard work, hand wringing, blood sweat and tears has gone into the cannabis movement nationwide, all so they can simply go about their lives and pay taxes on their preferred folk remedy without culture-war-crazed nutcases violently seizing license to liquidate their assets and their freedom to pad the local towns bottom line… The situation as it exists, in reality, is so tragic and has seemed so hopeless for so long. Successful governments the world over are familiar with the art of distraction —. I had no idea they light up in South Korea. I guess they are leading the way just like Amsterdam. Well of course, the best way to get people mellow and happy with their situation is to make them high on THC. Awesome article and fascinating account of misadventures within a dictatorial regime. Thanks for having the balls to go on the adventure, the luck to return, and the talent to share it. One of the most interesting things I find about North Korea in general, is the scope for comparison — the experience leaves you questioning a lot of things you took for granted back home. Bummer to read elsewhere that the NK pot is pretty weak compared to its western counterparts. Were you able to get a decent buzz after several joints? Clearly there was no effort put into hydroponics, but rather the plant seemed to have been harvested from wild crops and then only partially-dried. Anywhere else in the world, without the novelty value of smoking it in North Korea, it might have been a bit disappointing. But yes — after smoking enough of the stuff, it still delivered that unmistakable buzz. Absolute fantastic job. Love this, man. Good job. Who knew that pot is legal there?! Made for a pretty surreal tour. Please leave this field empty. On Smoking Weed in North Korea. Brad Dock pm 5 February Good job!! Xavier pm 25 June Dr Denice pm 21 April Darmon am 8 May Confused pm 16 January Darmon am 1 February Thank you! Darmon am 17 August Max pm 4 March Darmon Richter am 1 April Laurie pm 3 August Bryan Winchell am 7 March Anyway… thanks a lot for the thoughtful comment. Darmon Richter pm 14 March Darmon Richter pm 3 March Any tourist harassment or really ok? Thank you. Darmon Richter am 27 December Darmon Richter pm 8 December Darmon Richter pm 7 September I lived in Zambia for three years, the weed was terrible but incredibly cheap, I just have to ask, how good is the weed Esteban Maroto am 10 January Darmon Richter pm 11 January Darmon Richter am 9 December Contact Form for fast fast responds Emailthomasrocky12 gmail. Darmon Richter pm 18 November Camilo Alvrez am 17 October Yep, big fat Korean churros. Who would have thought it? Darmon Richter am 19 October Darryl Mason am 16 October Dan Ionita am 9 October Darmon Richter am 15 November Did it seem like they have the smoking culture at all when you were smoking joints? Christopher Rayana pm 8 October Thanks for the comment. This is amazing. Probably the best story I have read about visiting N. Elvis Samuels pm 8 October Thanks very much, Elvis — that means a lot. Carl Marks am 27 September Darmon Richter am 27 September John K pm 8 October Thanks for the comment John, I certainly do my best to stay civil and unbiased! Anyway, thank you for reading, subscribing and sharing your thoughts. Darmon Richter am 17 November Chris Stock pm 7 October Well, when you put it like that… Thanks very much though, I really appreciate the kind words! Glad you enjoyed the report. Darmon Richter pm 18 October Arjay pm 7 October Azi am 8 October B-ball and biftas. Christ Gnilrets pm 7 October Adrian Larsson pm 7 October Joe Moody pm 7 October Good luck with your project, it sounds like fun! Darmon Richter pm 25 April Sounds like you had a great time. OneLonelyWanderer am 1 October John Jones pm 29 September Thanks John, I take that as very high praise indeed. Darmon Richter am 30 September I agree. Andy Shuman pm 30 September Thanks very much, Andy — glad you enjoyed it. Love reading about North Korea!
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