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A scene from Sunrise Journeys, Uluru's new pre-dawn laser, light and sound show, based on an artwork by three Anangu artists. First European, Largest saltwater lake. South Australia. Holidaying New Zealanders have a tendency to treat Australia as an extension of home with better prawns. Melbourne is an artsy long weekend. Sydney is a shopping trip. But go beyond those coastal cities and there is another world. Track your progress via the changing colours below. From Sydney towards Uluru — blue to green to yellow to sienna. There is the occasional flash of a roof or the straight line of a road but, for the longest time, nothing to suggest human habitation. Uluru is almost smack in the middle of Australia, at the lower end of its Northern Territory. The airport is still called Ayers Rock, the legacy of the first non-Aboriginal person to sight the geological behemoth that locals had been calling something else for the previous 30, years. Jump onboard the free, minute loop bus to get a proper sense of the place. Campsites, lodges, apartments and hotels, a camel farm, a town square with a supermarket, cafes, galleries and retail and, most intriguingly, a glimpse of the back end — staff accommodation and emergency services, et al. Once, tourists stayed much closer to Uluru. Some rooms, we are told, had windows that faced directly towards portions of the rock that are sacred to Anangu, the Aboriginal owners of this place. Over the decades, the tourism footprint has shifted — and not just in the physical sense. I will, ultimately, see Uluru in the context of the Wintjiri Wiru sunset dinner and drone show, a dawn excursion to a viewing platform followed by a guided, up close walk around its base and a visit to the Cultural Centre, a nighttime buffet in front of the Field of Light installation and, finally, the spectacular, brand new sound and light show that is Sunrise Journeys. I never stopped noticing Uluru. How could laser-lit spectacles, synchronised drone shows and I am not making this up segway tours around the base of Uluru, sit comfortably alongside the unparalleled natural grandeur and 30, years of unbroken living culture? Uluru is monumentally beautiful. A metre high arkose sandstone formation with a 9. The sheer scale speaks for itself. You really do have to be there. It sets out rules for living, rules for social interacting and how to care for country. It refers to past, present and future. So, I learn about the rufous-hare wallaby people, a devil dog and a kingfisher woman; the crested bellbird men and a blue-tongued lizard. Stories in and about the rock that — even at entry level — contain life lessons. Finish what you start. The greedy and dishonest will get their comeuppance. What happens after this chapter? Award-winning Wintjiri Wuru is my first formal tourist interaction with Uluru. A short bus ride, a raised boardwalk and a gourmet picnic hamper dinner eaten on the steps of a sustainably constructed amphitheatre in the middle of the desert. In brief: Smoked emu is my new favourite charcuterie, bush tomato romesco is my condiment of the year and curried crocodile tastes like chicken. Cue lights, no cameras — and drones in synchronised action. Wintjiri Wiru is a spectacular light show that begins as the stars light up and Uluru is just a silhouette in the darkness. Two mornings later, and my jaw is somewhere on the red dirt below. Three football fields worth of desert have become a digital canvas. Against a soundtrack by Anangu musician Jeremy Whiskey, water holes swirl, trees burst into flames, flocks of cockatoos rise up and flowers emerge from the ground. And, at the end, when the actual sun rises: Uluru. It stuns a noisy and well-travelled media contingent into pin-drop silence. My alarm had gone off at 4. Uluru is a dawn to dusk and beyond destination and it is worth the sleep deprivation and cost to make the most of both. The first story I saw was ancient, but the second was entirely contemporary and the painting it is based on was specially commissioned and is now on display at the Gallery of Central Australia, right next door to my hotel. Once, tourists ignored Tjukurpa and climbed Uluru. Now, we see the country the way its people want us to. It is just years since the first European contact with the people of this area. The colonisers were tourists — via the first vehicle-suitable road in and, a decade later, the development of a new airstrip and permanent accommodation. It was before Anangu finally reclaimed ownership of the national park land. The day after, Parks Australia signed a year lease and the area is now managed by a strong management board with an eight-member Anangu majority. Back home, I do more reading. My midday wander to the town square includes a stop at the Kulata Academy Cafe, staffed by students from the National Indigenous Training Academy, a live-in training programme that just celebrated its th graduate. Free experiences offered by the resort range from an outdoor didgeridoo workshop to a bush food lecture where I learn the yellow-flowered plant with seeds that can be ground to make a dough look to me identical to the yellow-flowered plant with the seeds you can use as a laxative. I try to imagine this place in summer when the mercury routinely hits 35C and the flies flock to the sweat on your face. You could nap in your room or swim in a pool or head to the brand new Australian Native High Tea experience at the luxe Sails in the Desert hotel for 1. Tasting highlights included a take on the Tim Tam with caramel infused from locally picked saltbush, and a lemon aspen and barramundi tart, in which the fish tasted surprisingly like crayfish. All of these activities create career paths and economic opportunities for locals. The more things to do, the longer tourists are likely to stay and spend. On my second night, that meant an outdoor buffet where my tablemates included the parents of an Australian sports star and a couple on their 25th wedding anniversary. One morning, I watched the dawn sun catch Uluru on fire from another raised viewing platform. At ground level, the stories are quieter. We filed past caves, photographed slivers of bright morning light creeping over shadowed sandstone outcrops and, at the end, learned about the legacy of past tourism — decades of dumped rubbish, putrefied water holes and worse. It was a necessary reality check. Cocktails, canapes and wide-angle selfies. At some point, you want to get up close to Uluru. Stand still, be quiet and understand you are an infinitesimal blip in this story. Direct flight options include Melbourne 3hrs , Sydney 3. Alice Springs is km away around five hours drive or 50 minutes by air. Easy, enjoyable and stress-free. You couldn't ask for a better holiday. Eventually, the dirt turns red. Uluru, in the heart of the Northern Territory's 'Red Centre'. Sunrise Journeys, a new indigenous laser, light and sound show based on an artwork by three women Anangu artists, premiered at Uluru in late July. Morning sun creeps over the face of Uluru in Australia's Northern Territory. Want more holidays? Forget going overseas and buy a campervan. Let the fun beGIN: This week's travel alerts will put you in the mood for summer. Kiwi Aussie love story heroed in new Qantas commercial. Latest from Travel. Stop harassing celebrity baby pygmy hippo, zoo visitors warned. Plan now and play later.

What’s new in Australia’s Northern Territory? Enjoy new attractions at Uluru

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