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But for die-hard Italophiles, it was all the more fabulous for being set in Sicily. Fiery, mysterious, multi-faceted and largely misunderstood, Sicily is one of the most fascinating spots in the Mediterranean, a place where cultures and histories converge against the dramatic rumble of Mount Etna—and where many, White Lotus characters included, have lost their heads. Set in the touristic Taormina, The White Lotus went full steam ahead on pristine panoramas and images of the Italian idyll—but it was far from perfect in its portrayal of this spectacular isle. These are eight things we discovered about Sicily in the process, from the good ceramics, beaches and villas to bookmark for our next trip to the bad where was all the food?! Sicily is known for its colourful, elaborate ceramics , and none more so than the characteristic Teste di Moro. Such is their prevalence in Sicilian life that they merit an entire scene in the first episode, as a bellboy explains their meaning to the guests. According to legend, a traveling Moor and a local Sicilian girl fell madly in love—only for the girl to discover that he had a wife and family back home in the East, to whom he would soon return. Blinded by love and jealousy, the girl waited until the Moor was sleeping and cut off his head so that she could keep it forever, displaying it on her balcony and planting basil in it, watering it with her tears. Some of the most intricate and beautiful Teste di Moro are hand-crafted in the city of Caltagirone and in the typical Majolica style, alongside other iconic Sicilian ceramics such as the rather rude-looking pine cone pigna that adorns thresholds across the island—as well as most corners of the White Lotus hotel. The White Lotus showcased one of the most stunning spots in Sicily when it sent Harper and Daphne on a day trip to Noto. Those seeking somewhere a little less overrun with tourists, however, should venture beyond the city itself to discover the rest of the magical towns that make up the UNESCO-certified Val Di Noto area, which encompasses eight towns constructed in the late Sicilian Baroque style, each uniquely fascinating in its own right and one more magnificent than the last. Think Modica for chocolate, Scicli for off-the-beaten-track authenticity and countless Montalbano throwbacks, Caltagirone for ceramics, and Ragusa for high-level dining at one of its numerous Michelin-starred restaurants. Little wonder he was the most-featured artist of the series: his music plays nine times and in some of the most significant scenes. The gloriously opulent neoclassical villa that Harper and Daphne escape to on their spontaneous girls trip is not in fact located in Noto, as the show suggests, but closer to Palermo, on the edge of the historic town of Monreale. Is he an essential addition to the cast? Also no. While the Americans in The White Lotus are given fascinating, complex characters that merit endless exploration, the Sicilians, by contrast, are kept inexplicably simple, flat, depressingly one-note. Taormina might have its epic panoramas, glamorous events, classical history and the alluring view of active Mount Etna looming overhead, but an abundance of sandy white beaches? Not quite. The White Lotus never pitched itself as a deep-dive into Sicilian history, landscapes and culture, but still, its depiction of the island felt a little… reductive. For one, its locals were portrayed largely as swindlers and crooks, when in reality they are some of the most generous, warm and passionate in the world. There are the lavish breakfasts, the endless Spritzes and the odd meal out of course, but what of the arancini , red prawns, caponata, pasta alla Norma and cannoli of our Sicilian gastronomic dreams? But for the characters of The White Lotus , it seems Sicily is little more than a pretty backdrop for their personal dramas and problems to unfold. Our secrets are your secrets. Sign up to our newsletter to always be in the know! Email Subscribe.

Tee-up in Taormina, Sicily

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The Dom spread his hands and gave me the most Sicilian of shrugs. He then proceeded to make me several offers I found hard to refuse. First, he offered me Shirley Temple. Then Cinderella. Then a Garibaldi. I settled for a Vesper martini. When in Sicily, do what the Sicilians do. Eat, drink and try and play golf. For 3, years, Sicily has experienced many invasions. The latest invaders are golfers. Domenico Micali is the barman at the five-star Donnafugata Golf and Spa Resort which offers the best 36 holes out of the currently available in Sicily. There are six courses. Putting is a challenge. Magma can ruin your card. Head chef Damiano Bassano tests the elasticated waist of your golf shorts and slacks with ravioli stuffed with aubergine and mozzarella, suckling pig with apple potato cake and marsala and chocolate and banana semifreddo ice cream. His desserts will make you hesitant to go topless on the local Punta Secca beach. The courses are wonderful. The Parkland is an archaeological site. My rescue club has got me out of most things. But, on the 12th, I took three to get out of the sixth century BC. If you do want to leave, Barbara Iurato of Eracle Travels, in reception, will sort you out — whether you are an Inspector Montalbano anorak or not. The show was filmed around Val di Noto, famous for its eight Baroque showpiece villages. Like much of the area, Noto was rebuilt after the earthquake. Wine being the rootstock of Sicilian hospitality, Barbara will recommend a winery, such as Valle dell'Acate in Contrada Bidini, Where, being fed scaccia flat bread stuffed with tomato and ricotta you learn how seven wines have been made from seven types of soil by six generations of Sicilian winemakers. Sicily is hard to metabolise. In Modica, up in the Hyblaean mountains, the Dolceria Bonajuto chocolate shop insists you wear a hairnet and surgical smock. You learn how chocolate has been made since You quickly feel you were born around then. Or even earlier. In Aztec times. It goes on a bit. I fell in love with the Corinthian columns, the notable Gothic -Catalan portals, the caryatids and grotesques. But my knees hated the steps. Three hundred and thirty-three of them. And that was just one way. I lit a candle for my anterior cruciate ligament. Two hours up the coast from Ragusa is 2,year-old Syracuse and the one square kilometre island of Ortygia. You can do the seawall circuit Foro Italano before turning into alleyways and rococo courtyards to see old men vaping on their e-cigarettes and ladies taking in and putting out washing on balconies. You pass gelaterias, pizzerias one is called Archimedes after Syracuse's favourite swotty son , hat shops cappelleria , bread shops , cake shops, pasta shops and hole-in-the-wall trattorias. You need fuel to wander around the Citta Vecchia. Ambling through the morning market near the sixth-century Doric Temple of Apollo, you're greeted by piles of saffron-flavoured Piacentinu cheese, basketfuls of fennel finocchio , amaranth grains and pistachio as well as cured meats, unfeasibly large aubergines, ridiculously healthy-looking lemons, cassata sweets and prickly pears figi d'inda. And slab after slab of fish. Provola cheese bulbs dangle everywhere. You dodge barrowboys. And give way to porters hernia-ising themselves carrying haunches of meat. You're pursued by fisarmonica players playing the Godfather theme. In Sicily it's hard to escape Harry Connick Jr. It tests your accordion tolerance level. Syracuse is a city of catacombs, basilicas, marble, majolica pavements, fountains, statues and baroqued palazzios. Etna from the Phoenician for chimney is to the side and the bays of Mazzaro and Naxos below. It's classic and much celebrated rubble. The neo-classical hotel has the best resident bar pianist in Sicily. He is erupting classics all the time. A designated driver is recommended in Taormina, so it's best to catch an 'ape'. The ape ap-pay was launched by scooter company Piaggio in Feeling either a bit of a celebrity or a bit of a twit, you buzz about in an iconic soft-topped, three-wheel Ape Calessino touring the teatro antico which is still used for concerts and a film festival. The tour entails a compulsory almond wine Blandanino cocktail in the Churchill Caffe san Giorgio. Your autograph joins the likes of Cary Grant and Rita Hayworth. He described Taormina as 'stupendously and overwhelmingly beautiful'. You watch guests sip spumante on the exclusive beach and dive from the rocks. The hotel was a playground for film stars in the s and s. Sebastiano rows you to the local grottoes. Then onto Isola Bella, once home of a friend of Queen Victoria and now a nature reserve. At the Villa you quickly develop a bad amaretti morbidi cookie habit. And its Oliviero restaurant, its palatial rooms, the service, the wine list, the moonlit massages and the views further conspire into helping you to develop a serious and very probably incurable addiction to the dolce vita. Eat, drink, play golf on an archeological site — the vita is definitely dolce in Taormina. Kevin Pilley. A New York Times book critic spent five days in Dublin. Dublin-Belfast rail users put out by return of old timetable. Flight from Faro makes several unsuccessful attempts to land in Dublin. Where is our hot moral indignation when it comes to the fathers of the babies found at Tuam?

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