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Hola and welcome to Where on Planet Earth! In case you got here by accident and are not yet a subscriber, sign up below! For more visuals on our travels follow us on IG whereonplanetearth. A few days ago we got back from la Ciudad Perdida, a multi day hiking route in the Sierra Nevada of the Colombian Caribbean, the world's highest coastal mountain range. We hiked up and down lush mountains and through indigenous communities for four days to get to Teyuna, an abandoned city built by the Tayronas indigenous group in AD, years before Machu Picchu. We learned a lot about the area, its harsh history with drugs, and the indigenous groups living there today. The city was built by the Tayronas, who at one point numbered in the , When the Spanish arrived, lured by gold, they brought their diseases and their violence. Nowadays, there are four different communities living in the Sierra Nevada, all descendants of the Tayrona, with a population of around 50, Kogui, Wiwa, Arhuaco, and Kankuamo. Two of those groups, the Kogui and the Wiwa, inhabit part of the hiking route to the Lost City, so you trek through their territory and some of their villages. They always knew it existed, but the city had a bad rep for a long time. Teyuna used to be were spiritual leaders lived and where special ceremonies and reunions happened. When the indigenous communities all around the mountain rage started to fall ill from foreign diseases, they went to Teyuna and their spiritual leaders to ask for a cure. Many died there and had to be buried in the city. So many of them that the city became a big cemetery and the communities started to believe they were being punished for giving away their gold, which represented their God the sun, called Saranqua. Because of this, the city was abandoned in and not resettled again until much later. In , the Mamo, who is the main spiritual leader of the Koguis, decided to move there and today all the community leaders meet there every September, when the city is closed to tourism. The indigenous communities burry their dead under their houses with all their possessions, so the guaqueros knew exactly were to find the gold. The city was looted and destroyed almost entirely; they took everything they found, all the treasures now lost to the rest of the world. Eventually, they started getting into conflicts between them and some guaqueros were killed. This is what led to the government learning the place existed in , appropriating the site, and eventually restoring it - ironically with the help of the guaqueros who were the only ones who knew how the city looked before the looting. The history of the Sierra Nevada mountains is as interesting as the history of Teyuna. Starting in the s the area has had three main cycles: marihuana, cocaine, and tourism. In the s, dozens of Colombians from other parts of the country came to settle in the area, fleeing violence in other areas. In the Sierra they found fertile lands that seemingly did not belong to anyone, and whoever arrived settled in the paradise where bananas, avocados, and coffee grew, and also: marihuana. Weed helped campesinos earn what they needed to survive and feed their families. The marihuana business brought lots of money to the area, so much so that the leaf became the local currency. This was the gateway to the farming of coca leaves, and behind the bonanza came the guerrillas followed by paramilitary groups. The conflict left more than , displaced, and thousands of others were kidnapped, disappeared, or killed. Eventually, in the Colombian government signed a peace deal with the paramilitary groups they helped to create, and almost 40, paramilitaries gave back their weapons. However, this did not mean the end of the conflict, at least not everywhere in the mountain rage. On the other side of the Sierra, where no tourists are hiking to Ciudad Perdida, or watching the sunset in Minca, or lounging on a beach in Tayrona National Park, there are still cocaine labs running full steam. Not all from the Sierra, but some of it still is. Behind the peace that tourists perceive, there is surveillance by militiamen and millions of pesos that are extorted from tourist businesses and authorities. We find the situation quite similar to Mexico, and in many ways the similarities permeate the culture; narcotraffic unites the two countries in more ways than you would think. In thousands of tourists visited the Lost City, and many more went to the surrounding area of Tayrona, Minca, Palomino, etc. I mean, we are in Medellin, what used to be the capital of the drug war; walking its art-filled Comuna 13 and chilling at hipster cafes. Out of the four indigenous groups the Kogui are the ones that have preserved their characteristics the most and have had the least contact with people outside their group. They are also the largest of the four communities in the area. Here are some of the things we learned about their way of life:. In Colombia coca leaves are only officially allowed to be grown by indigenous communities because of their ceremonial purpose. Only the women in those communities are allowed to harvest it. The coca leaves are then roasted with a hot stone that is put into a bag along with the leaves and moved around. These are then chewed only by men. The men receive a poporo when they come of age. The poporo is a small hollow gourd that is filled with lime, a type of powder produced by burning seashells with bamboo, boiling them in water, and then crushing them. They consider the poporo like their passport and carry it with them everywhere they go. As they chew coca leaves they extract a bit of lime from the gourd with a stick, which they then put in their mouth to combine with the coca. The alkalis from the seashells activate the coca leaves which provides a mild cocaine effect. Afterwards they also rub the mixture of saliva and lime over the gourd with the stick to form a hardened layer. They explain this as being meditative and stimulating, and a way to write their thoughts. The size of this layer on the gourd depends on the maturity and age of the Kogui man. Natural fibers are made from the leaf of the agave by the man removing the outer skin of the leaf. Women then dye the fibers different colors with natural materials like leaves and tree bark, and then are the ones in charge of weaving the traditional bags that both men and women use. It can take 50 leaves and from 8 days to one month to make a medium size bag. They worship the Sun and Mother Earth, and the two snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada are considered the center of the world. This duality is their base for lots of other parts of their culture. Men and women have very specific roles in the society. Women are believed to be more connected to Mother Earth and walk barefoot everywhere to always be in touch with the earth and get energy from it. Their homes are circular, symbolizing the womb and the sun. The roofs are made of palm wood and the walls are made of mud and wood. The houses have two peaks symbolizing the peaks in the Sierra Nevada. Men and women live in separate houses right next to each other. Girls live with their mothers until they are married, and boys only up to a certain age and then move with their fathers. Women are married very young, and might have 8 to 10 children. Because of this the age expectancy for women is very low at around 50 years old, in contrast to men which is around Men also use fire but mostly just at nights, and during the day they are out of the house in the fields. Share this post. The dark history of the Sierra Nevada, from conquerors to drug lords www. Copy link. Carla Villoria. Feb 27, Discussion about this post Comments. Ready for more? Start Writing Get the app. Substack is the home for great culture. This site requires JavaScript to run correctly. Please turn on JavaScript or unblock scripts.
Cocaine can be a tough habit to break — not just for the users, but also the coca growers. So the Colombian government is trying to help.
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Alfredo, farmer. Understanding the white powder Visiting a cocaine factory in the Sierra Nevada of Colombia. The manufacture of cocaine is a process shrouded in mystery and secrecy for most Western travellers. Bombarded by Western movies and films, cocaine labs are thought to be guarded installations where mad drug lords, speaking in English like Tony Montoya, concoct their next two ton shipment of cocaine for 'los gringos en Miami'. In Colombia, however, a country renown for being the number one cocaine producer in the world, the real manufacturers, poor, rural farmers, have decided to open their doors to a limited amount of visitors to show them the process of making this cocaine. A live tour of a drug factory is definitely a once in a lifetime experience. It also helps to understand that Colombian farmers are also victims from the white powder. During the 6 day trek to the Lost City of Colombia, a few hours away from Santa Marta on the Atlantic coast, it is now possible for backpackers to visit a small cocaine factory. Two farmers and their families have understood the interest of travellers, and for only a few dollars, show them the entire process of making the basic 'cocaine paste' which will then be refined further in bigger factories to make the final powder. During the second day of the trek to the ancient ruins, the hikers walk next to a series of little farms, with children playing in the back-yard and women washing clothes. If the coca plants weren't lining the trail everywhere, no one would ever imagine that this is one of the places where a key ingredient is produced in the international drug trade. Alfredo is a 50 year old farmer living in the Sierra Nevada of Colombia. With his wife and four children, Alfredo works for the paramilitaries to grow coca leaves. In his back-yard, he installed a home made 'cocaine factory', a series of dirty baskets where the coca leaves distil in gasoline, sulphuric acid, permanganate of potassium and other toxic ingredients. Alfredo is amused by the interest of travellers in the cocaine production. While the interested hikers are watching him with their eyes wide open, he is pouring all the ingredients in the baskets, steering with a wooden stick. The chemical result appears so disgusting that one can not imagine putting this chemical potupurri up one's nose afterwards. The farmer has a few big holes in his jeans. He explains that he accidentally dropped a little bit of the sulphuric acid on himself when he was adding it to the mixture. Mariela, his wife, wants him to delegate this work to someone younger, because he often gets sick from breathing the ingredients. When asked if he has ever tried his home made product, Alfredo is horrified. I didn't like it. I would never do it again! Alfredo wants to tell the world that he is sorry to participate in the cocaine business. Because of this product, there are many wars, many people are killed. I know the money is then used to buy weapons from the US or Europe. I don't understand why people abroad buy cocaine for such high prices. But my family and I don't really have any choice The farmer wishes he could only cultivate cacao, rice or yucca. Even if half of the money is used to buy the ingredients, it is a lot of money. The FARC and the paramilitaries have been fighting for decades a civil war in Colombia, financed by kidnappings and drug trafficking. At the beginning, the war was ideological. Today, all they want is to make more profit from the drug trafficking, and to control as many zones as possible to grow more coca leaves. The Indians and local farmers have no choice but to work for them in the different zones that belong to one or the other. It is a 'catch 22' situation, because if they do not grow coca leaves for one group, they can be killed. However, if they do so and the zone is invaded by the other group, they can be killed as well for 'being traitors. There is so much fear in certain parts of Colombia that it results in a massive internal and international displacement of the population. Alfredo and his wife Mariela, filtration of the gazoline with water. Permanganate of potacium. Alfredo and his wife Mariela, filtration of the gazoline with water sulphuric acid Permanganate of potacium Chau cal. Author - Other publications.
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Tourism is the New Cocaine for Sierra Nevada Villagers · 1. Eco-tourism - · 2. Community-based Tourism - · 3. Alternative Income Sources - · 1. Hospitality - · 2.
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However, this prompted illegal armed groups to pressure indigenous groups heavily for their sacred coca leaf during the cocaine boom. FARC and.
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Buy Cocaine Sierra Nevada