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What do Madonna and Valentino have in common? They spend the holidays at the same exclusive Alpine town, which over nine days in December swells from 7, to 30, people. Every year, Maurice Amon, the billionaire head of the banknote security firm Sipca, holds a massive Christmas party in Gstaad, Switzerland: bowls of cigarettes, bottomless champagne, table after table covered in colourful salads, smoked salmon and meat skewers, all perfectly untouched. It is not possible to understand Gstaad until you have spent a Christmas season there. The mountain air loses its typical crispness, robbed by the social angst that comes with keeping up with the uber-wealthy. The town is a sleepy mountain resort for 11 and a half months of the year. Outside of agriculture, the primary excitement comes from the single cinema. The monthly magazine, GstaadLife , features reports on stand-up paddleboarding and the vandalism of sawn down birch trees. Out go the knitting circles, in come the red carpets and last-minute film premieres — in Harvey Weinstein hosted a private screening of Big Eyes at the Alpina. Until Gstaad was primarily known as the next best thing to St Moritz. Though lacking the nightlife and Olympic pedigree of its rival to the east, Gstaad has one thing St Moritz does not: Le Rosey. Gradually, Gstaad began to be known as the most exclusive of the Alpine towns, and the rich and famous began coming here for their festive holidays. Richard Burton, Liz Taylor, Brigitte Bardot and Roger Moore all helped turn Gstaad into something unique: a resort built almost exclusively around staging Christmas for the beautiful people. Owned and run by the Scherz hotelier dynasty, it is hailed as the only option for jet-setters who lack the privilege of owning their own chalet. It is fully booked each season, with reservations coming in as early as three years in advance. Situated atop the town, it is a stone castle overlooking quiet streets below. The Palace leads down to the town promenade, a pedestrian area lined with Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Trois Pommes boutiques. At the end is the Hotel Olden, a celebrity haunt from the s, whose traditional facade makes it look more like an old-fashioned Swiss restaurant than a hotel. The station brings in the small army of workers who must spring into life to cater to the festive season guests. Many of them are drivers: the number of cars on the road during Christmas jumps from the usual or so to more than 3, For the family-run Taxi Simon, the Christmas season is a time of no sleep. And even that is often not enough. We have partnerships with other limousine service companies from different cities in Switzerland to bring in extra Mercedes Vianos and cars to accommodate our guests. At the Palace, the staff are expected to maintain the mystery of their guests while silently catering to their needs. Hotel staff typically work 13 or 14 hour days. To service guest rooms, the hotel has more than staff rooms — the team swells from 50 to in December, all there to play their part in the production of making Christmas, well, the most wonderful time of the year. For some, at least. The staff themselves are kept strictly away from the guests. Mingling between guests and staff is not permitted on hotel property, and alcohol is strictly forbidden during work hours. The rule is broken for Christmas Eve, when staff get a meal of steak frites with wine instead of the usual water. It is so good, one year Bono even joined the band. The extra capacity requires extra voltage. There are now back-up generators hauled out of storage for the winter season. Lucia, director of operations at the Palace, describes the romance of the loss of electricity — candle-lit dinners — but says the workers in the resort had to resort to hand-written receipts, and worked double time to catch up in the early days of The students and graduates of Le Rosey stand on a middle ground between the famous VIPs and the working residents of Gstaad. For them, the town is a second home. I may see Madonna at a party but I would never go up to her. Come 3 January, there is a complete switchover. The western jet-setters depart on their private planes from Gstaad-Saanen airport, and the Russian oligarchs arrive for their own Christmas celebrations: 7 January on the Orthodox calendar. Eventually the Russians too depart, the 17,strong army of temporary workers heads home, and GstaadLife resumes features on the latest wave of vandalism: severed Christmas lights. Follow Guardian Cities on Twitter and Facebook to join the discussion. Photograph: Alamy. This article is more than 8 years old. View image in fullscreen. Read more. Reuse this content. Comments … Sign in or create your Guardian account to join the discussion. Most viewed.
Gstaad's double life: from sleepy resort to billionaire's Christmas playground
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