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The bottled water is on the house. The waiter arrives at the table, lowers the tray and places an empty black CD case in the middle of the table. Next to the CD case are two straws and two little black packets. He is so casual he might as well be delivering a sandwich and fries. And he has seen it all. They would take turns sleeping and the only time they left was to go to the ATM,' says Roberto, who has worked at Route 36 in its various locations for the last six months. Behind the bar, he goes back to casually slicing straws into neat 8cm lengths. La Paz, Bolivia, at 3,m above sea level — an altitude where even two flights of stairs makes your heart race like a hummingbird — is home to the most celebrated bar in all of South America: Route 36, the world's first cocaine lounge. I sit back to take in the scene — table after table of chatty young backpackers, many of whom are taking a gap year, awaiting a new job or simply escaping the northern hemisphere for the delights of South America, which, for many it seems, include cocaine. So they move all the time. Maybe if they are lucky they last three months in the same place, but often it is just two weeks. Route 36 is a movable feast,' says a Bolivian newspaper editor who asked not to be named. Certainly it is the most famous among the backpacker crowd but there are several other places that are offering cocaine as well. Because Route 36 changes addresses so much there is a lot of confusion about how many cocaine bars are out there. This new trend of 'cocaine tourism' can be put down to a combination of Bolivia's notoriously corrupt public officials, the chaotic 'anything goes' attitude of La Paz, and the national example of President Evo Morales, himself a coca grower. Coca is the leaf, and cocaine is the highly manufactured and refined powder. While he has said he will crack down on cocaine production, he appears to be swimming against the current. In early July, the largest ever cocaine factory was discovered in eastern Bolivia. Capable of producing kg a day, the lab was run by Colombians and provided the latest evidence that Bolivia is now home to sophisticated cocaine laboratories. The lab was the fourth large facility to be found in Bolivia this year. Nowhere in South America is cocaine production growing faster than Bolivia. As the US and Colombian military put pressure on drug traffickers, operations are migrating into nearby countries, especially Bolivia, where the turf for illegal operations is as fertile as the valleys where the locals have grown coca for the last five centuries. Stopping cocaine tourism in La Paz could be as difficult as keeping Americans from drinking during prohibition. Down in Route 36's main room, the scene is chilled. A half-hearted disco ball sporadically bathes the room in red and green light. Each table has candles and a stash of bottled water, plus whatever mixers one cares to add to your drink. In the corner, a pile of board games includes chess, backgammon, and Jenga, the game in which a steady hand pulls out bricks from a tower of blocks until the whole pile collapses. If it weren't for the heads bobbing down like birds scouring the seashore for food, you would never know that huge amounts of cocaine were being casually ingested. There's a lot of mingling from table to table. Everyone here has stories — the latest adventures from Ecuador, the best bus to Peru — and even the most wired 'why-won't-he-shut-up? The scene here is peaceful; there seems no fear that anyone will be caught. A female backpacker from Newcastle slips on to one of the four couches arranged around the table. This will be their first time, so we are just rubbing it on their lips. But they are lucky — you could never get such pure coke back home. In London you pay 50 quid for a gram that's been cut so much, all it does it make your lips numb and sends you to the bathroom. Travellers' blogs also give the place a good writeup. Well, here you can bloody well torch the whole candle. And torch your brain as well. Cocaine, as everybody knows, is highly addictive, destructive and easy to abuse. The rationale for outlawing cocaine was to protect public health — but instead the now year experiment in prohibition has done little to protect the lives of millions of users worldwide who will snort whatever white substance is placed before them. The billions in annual profits have corrupted governments worldwide, and La Paz, without intending it, seems to have mutated into the front line of this failed drug war. Route 36 is an illegal pop-up cocaine lounge in Bolivia. This article is more than 15 years old. Route 36 has turned La Paz, Bolivia into a hotspot for drug tourism, tempting backpackers from all over the world. Reuse this content. Most viewed.

This Is What Bolivia’s Notorious Cocaine Cocktail Bar Is Actually Like

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Route 36 is an illegal pop-up lounge bar located in La Paz, Bolivia where cocaine is served by the gram on a silver platter, along with the cocktail of your choice. It also seems to be somewhere literally everyone knows about, which leads you to suspect that, for it to remain open, there may be an element of corruption at play. Of course, while everyone knows of it, not everybody knows where it actually is. After provoking blank faces from three cabbies, we eventually found our man. He quoted us 15 bolivianos just over a buck and took us on our way. The only hiccup on our journey was the roadblock we had to circumvent. The day before our taxi ride, at the end of July, those demands were delivered by way of dynamite set off in the middle a busy road. This is the sort of climate in which La Paz has resided for the past few years; tourists indulging in artisanal local drug services, while protests rage every couple of months, from soldiers demanding better working conditions to the disabled campaigning for better welfare support. Arriving at the bar, we were almost manhandled through a four-foot opening in what looked like a garage door by the three young Bolivian men who were rather inconspicuously standing guard outside. It was delivered to us instantly. Route 36 changes location as soon as there are complaints from the locals. According to a few of the guys sat around the table, it had been here for several weeks. There were around 20 people in the bar. We were sat with eight English gap year kids, two Belgian professionals, and the Norwegian. Half a dozen Irish businessmen were sat on the opposite side of the bar, definitely the most wound up and coke-y of everyone in there, in addition to two bar-women, the hostess, the DJ who kept playing fucking terrible dubstep , and two security guards constantly pacing around. In the Andes, the leaf is considered a sacred commodity, and President Evo Morales is a staunch defender of its medicinal and nutritional qualities. And he makes a very valid point; its cultural importance for Andean people, who have chewed the leaf for thousands of years, is primarily to relieve altitude sickness, not facilitate four-hour house party conversations with your boss about how to improve workflow. Since legalizing coca cultivation after he was elected in , Morales has repeatedly insisted that coca is not cocaine, calling on the UN to remove it from its list of prohibited drugs. I had to excuse myself from pleasantries and introductions to rack up on the cut-out surfaces that the bar had provided. Unsurprisingly, I became chattier than usual as we all exchanged life stories and travel tips. This place was a far cry from their experience that day. The bar had a deal going, so Josephine and I pooled our cash with our two new friends to get four grams for the price of three. Suddenly a charismatic—but a little wet behind the ears—Swedish guy pitched up next to us and started passing lines around for everyone. I had to show him how to snort the coke. He was the kind of man who would get busted in a second anywhere besides the security of that box, and his entrance summed up the ease with which one can locate the place. By 5 AM I was pretty wired, chain smoking cigarettes and talking very much at people rather than with them. At around half 6, a woman in her fifties asked us if we wanted any weed, trying to avoid the gaze of the bar-staff. Photo by Zxc via. By Manisha Krishnan and Keegan Hamilton. By Drew Schwartz. By Nathaniel Janowitz. By Manisha Krishnan. Share: X Facebook Share Copied to clipboard. Videos by VICE.

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