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We took rest in the hotel in morning after a long hectic drive for last fortnight. We had a wonderful western breakfast at Chini Bagh hotel after a long time, relaxed and ultimately got confirmation for my Tibet Train Tickets from Xining through my Tibet Travel agent. We got 3 soft sleeper tickets in same compartment in the evening train as we asked for, which was not easy, more details on this when we would cover Tibet section. So at last on very last moment I became little confident about my Tibet trip. Most irritating fact was they took 4 rounds of searches to make themselves satisfied and I had to go through security checks for 4 times. We crossed Taklamakan diagonally to North East and reach Urumqi just before evening. We said good bye to Hasan, another wonderful person we luckily have for our Southern Xinjiang trip and received by our old friend Ablajan again in Urumqi Airport for our short 2 days trip in Xinjiang before we would fly out to Xining. The day we had planned for our day trip to Turpan. No Xinjiang trip is completed until you visit Turpan, the second lowest point in planet Earth after Dead Sea of Jordan. But before that we had two important things to do. First was to collect the Tibet train tickets, in China though train tickets can be bought in internet, you need to have original paper ticket with you before you can board train, no e-ticket is allowed to board the train. So with confirmation number and identity card you need to collect your paper tickets from any train station or city booking office of Chinese railways. But if you collect it from origin station of your journey, it is free where as from any other places if you collect the paper ticket, you will have to pay 5 CNY per ticket. I thought paying 5 CNY and getting ticket from Urumqi is easier with help of Ablajan than to collect it in Xining by speaking Chinese with counter guys. The most famous exhibits of the museum are famous Xinjiang Mummies. The mummy named as Loulan Beauty was excavated from Lop Nor region was of a 45 years old woman of Indo European origin with read hair, thin nose and covered with red brown rough wool blanket. According to Chinese archaeologists this mummy was dated back to BCE. Rainfall is lowest among China, annual rainfall is just 20mm. It took around 2. Turpan was an important trade hub of silk route was mentioned in history as early as first century. Until fifth century CE the capital of the region was Jiaohe which was our first destination in Turpan. It is perched atop a narrow terrace like an island above 2 rivers Jiaohe means confluence of rivers. The cliffs rise more than 30 meters above the river bed to form a formidable natural defense. The city was under control of Tibetans for more than a century and major center of Buddhism but later around thirteenth century invaded by Mongol armies of Genghis khan and abandoned since then. Our next attraction was Karez which is the ingenious underground irrigation system of ancient China. Without this engineering marvel supplying water in large quantities to an area of arid land that would otherwise not be fit for large scale human civilization. A Karez means well in Persian is comprised of series of wells and linking underground channels that tap subterranean water and use gravity to bring it to the surface at a destination lower than source. By this means water can be transported long distance in hot, dry climates without losing a large proportion of it to seepage or evaporation in a dry hot desert climate. Digging and maintaining Karez was a tough feat to achieve. It requires skill to understand the best place to dig and monumental effort to execute that in harsh weather conditions. Wells generally begin at the base of the mountains to tap good amount glacier melt water. The tunnel is then dug but again engineering accuracy is required to make sure the tunnel slopes at a lesser gradient than the contours of the land so that the water reaches the oasis close to the ground level where surface canals can distribute it to reservoirs. Generally underground tunnels are 1. In Xinjiang region total km of Karez was discovered with more than wells providing an annual water output of million cubic meters. Today in Turpan still a part of it is in use to provide bulk of irrigation and drinking water for population. This Karez water system is considered as second best engineering marvel of ancient China after Great Wall demonstrating an astonishing level of engineering innovation and heroic human effort. It is evident that without this life saving attribute of Karez, the civilization of Xinjiang could never reach the size and sophistication that allowed the Silk Road to flourish. Due to this system Turpan became an agricultural oasis, famed for its sweetest grapes, white resins and wines in the middle of the extreme aridity and scorching heat that would otherwise make this a lifeless hell. We had a plan to Shanshan desert but later abandoned the plan as we had to take a long journey back to Urumqi and next day early morning we had our flight for Xining, the gateway of Tibet Plateau. We reached Urumqi around 8. This ended our 18 days grand trip in most diverse province of China. Tomorrow we will be at Xining, capital of Qinghai Province to catch high altitude train to Tibet. It will going be highest High speed train corridor in world where trains will run at kmph and reach Urumqi to Beijing km, overnight in less than 12 hours which now takes more than 72 hours, the work is close to completion now in 4 years:. Grape Street of Turpan where on top of the roads grapes are being dried Turpan is famous for sweetest grapes in China :. Coming back to Urumqi — Sunset, our last day was telling us a grand good bye after an excellent Xinjiang trip and remembering Tibet is waiting for us:. As we had the flight around I sent the snaps of my luggage to all the drivers with whom I planned to travel just to check if that could fit comfortably in the car. We were sure about the size and weight restrictions of flights but not too sure about the train and also if these could fit in the cars. China Eastern had almost no airport presence in Kolkata, we were served from Air India counter and also got the luggage tags and more surprisingly the boarding pass printed on Air India boarding pass. I never had this experience of flying in an airline with boarding pass printed on some other airlines. Gradually we habituated with that Chinese English which needed strong composition power of your brain to make it meaningful. The moment after boarding the flight, we started feeling we entered into China, the flight was full with Chinese, Announcements primarily in Chinese, Even the LCD displays are in Chinese, felt like in a domestic flight of China, hardly could imagine we were still in an international flight. The flight path was pretty straight and it just crossed Bangladesh, flew over Assam Dibrugarh and cross Northern part of Myanmar to enter China, scheduled flight time was 2 hours 10 mins same as Kolkata — Delhi but it reached Kunming in 1 hour 50 mins. China being even wider than US, maintains just one time zone where as US maintains 4. Be watchful when you buy a morning flight ticket specially in Western China, inevitably you have to fly before sun rise and getting into airport would be difficult just because in western side, sun rises at least 2. Though debatable, still good in one way when we see so many newsprints wasted in India to create new states almost regularly. Anyway we reached Kunming around 3. That was actually the last day of Mid Autumn Festival, the airport was quite crowded, Kunming is definitely smaller than Beijing, Shanghai or Guangzhou still having three times size of Delhi T3. Urbanization is in its extreme and sometimes by ruining the culture and history. Our only hope was the display boards those were displaying alternatively in English and Chinese. So we also tried the same, sipping the hot water, good it killed some time too. But then we needed to check in to our domestic connection to Urumqi but no display board showing which counter to proceed for check in for our flight and no check in counter had any display board. She took my bags for check in and asked me to go to security. Then I first understood check in process in China is to some extent different, you can check in using any counter of the specific airlines and luggage scan for check in bags happen after issuing the boarding pass. The flight goes to North from Kunming, cross between Chengdu and Chongging and fly North till Lanzhou before it turn left and cross Gobi Desert by the side of China — Mongolia border through the Northern side of Kunlun Mountains and finally reach Urumqi. We reached almost on time and Urumqi seems to be a relatively new city, around years old Yes its new comparing to historical cities of Hotan, Kashgar or Turpan all of which would exist even in BC. To do that I had to rework in my plan as I need to choose a place where first person would drop me and second person would pick me up without much of additional driving. The person whom I hired for my Northern Xinjiang trip was an Uighur in his mid 30, very nice person, speak excellent English and most importantly have guide license that means I could save a lot as in some places for foreigners, a guide is must. His name was Ablajan and he was right there in Airport with his Nissan Bluebird to pick me up. He just came from another long trip with couple of German tourists who were doing there China to Italy trip overland and he just transferred them to Kyrghiz border. Ablajan made all these super smooth and we completed all these in an hour or so. Ablajan also gave his Wi-Fi hotspot which was of immense help during the first week of travel as long as I was with him. Now it was the time for bed for first day of our trip. Tomorrow we would drive for km, one of the longest drives in our whole trip. We got up early, Ablajan was very disciplined person and punctual, he told us on first day we would go by Beijing time and by 9. We took quick breakfast with the help of breads and some noodles and by 9. Urumqi is strategically located for ancient migration from Tarim basin oasis in south to grassland of the nomadic tribes in north crossing the Jungar Basin. Now its been a modern Chinese city with tall buildings and lots of flyovers and heavy traffics even on a Sunday morning. We were surprised to see the traffic at 9. If you see the map below you would easily understand that we are trying to reach from Tienshan mountain range to Altai mountain ranges in North during this day. The route as I mentioned was long and there are two main highways of Northern Xinjiang meet at Beitun, Highway going through eastern side and Highway going through western side of the big centrally located Gurbantunggut Desert which is connected to Gobi in Eastern part towards Mongolia. But the location is odd for staying a night to enjoy the sunset or sunrise as there is no place to stay nearby, you need to camp yourselves. Still we decided to have a look at this place but paid hefty price of taking highway We stuck in a traffic jam here and lost 2 hours which was critical for such a long journey. Initially the landscape was fascinating as you will have Tienshan ranges in your right but slowly when it enters the desert, it becomes little boring. Add to the worry, out of km road, at least km roads are being re-laid and traffic were diverted through an off road which further slowed down the journey. The lack of information is another big problem, you would hardly know which roads are under maintenance and when they would be completed until you really hit there. We reached Multi Colored Bay quite late around 2. The desert landscape continued till Fuhai county from where you would get first view of Altai ranges and landscape started turning to green with emergence of Irtysh River which is only river in Asia flowing North to drain into Arctic Ocean, the highway turned west through northern rim of desert and you would see in your right the snow peaks of Altai and lined up poplar, elm and willow trees with Irtysh flowing beside you all along. From Beitun the main highway turns North towards Altai City, the capital of Altai prefecture where as we continued straight to Burqin, a nice small town with European touch which looks completely non Chinese and pleasure to your eyes. We reached quite late at almost 9. We were tired and gone to bed as quickly as possible with a promise of better tomorrow. Urumqi — made its place in Guinness Book of World Records as most remote large city from any sea in the World, located at km from nearest coastline, farthest city from Sea. Highway — still going through Gurbantunggut Desert but approaching towards Fuhai County and far away Altai Range is getting visible:. Previous: Things to keep in mind. International Air Tickets: can be purchased from any recommended travel site like makemytrip, thomascook, cleartrip, etc. Usually in China like other places, there are 60 days, 30 days, 15 days slab and if you can buy ticket even just before 15 days you get cheap price, but within 15 days makes it double and sometimes triple. Start following domestic ticket price 30 days before and anytime between 21 days to 7 days before journey you usually get the best price. Domestic Trains Very popular in China and there are several types of train, for detail refer seat Train Tickets are issued from Chinese official railway site www. Tickets are on sale 18 days before travel from various stations and city ticket booking office and through agents as well. Currently there are daily 5 trains between Xining to Lhasa between But getting tickets on a later train is more difficult. So if you fly in to Lhasa and take a train out, availability of tickets will be more, and cost of commission will be less. This rule even applicable for scenic fee entries. In station I heard not seen they have measurement tape to measure the height in case of any confusion. This also reduce your hotel cost if you can get yourself in a night bus. Local Transport: Local buses are there almost in all cities where the cost of travel is just 1 CNY where ever you go. Remember in Tibet foreigners are not allowed to take a local transport. Hire car and Driver: Hassle free but moderately costly option is a good choice if you can find a local driver who can speak in English, which is extremely difficult to find in any part of China. But ice on the cake is if you can find an English speaking driver who can have a guide license. Actually only licensed guides can enter into any designated scenic places and sometimes in some areas, guide is a must for foreigners. But taking a separate guide will cost you a bomb charges anything between 60 to USD per day just for guide. Somehow I managed to find 2 such English speaking drivers who has guide license in both North and South Xinjiang trip and both were found excellent in their service. Also there is no PayPal and Western Union possible between India and China, your only option is bank transfer which is having lot of paperwork, Chinese visa and travel is so uncertain if your trip gets cancelled, to get your money back, you have to again pay commission to Chinese Bank. So my target was simple, carry cash, cash and cash!! Completely torn bad notes even work as they say till it bears the face of Mao. Using black market to convert is easier and very quick but problem is if you convert more than you require and need to get USD back when returning you need another black market to do it as without proper receipts no bank will change your CNY to USD. Connectivity: Most hotels have wired network, few have even Wi-Fi. I carried a Chinese Data Card available from Matrix and it worked nicely and saved me many situations. Mobile Your international roaming will be too costly, getting a Chinese local SIM is easy though need some paperwork in sensitive areas of Xinjiang and Tibet but worst is their bill plan works only in City. Best is to get SIM which works across whole China, though that is not easy to find, so again I chose Matrix and though charges were little higher than getting local prepaid SIM, it helped me escaping lot of hassles. Take all your important document printouts in Chinese, like your name, your details, etc. You will rarely get someone even in an Airport which is 3 times bigger than Delhi T3 where people can read or speak English. So with all these in our tiny heads, we started the trip on 20th September from home to catch a Kolkata — Kunming Flight of 21st Sep, early morning After Cyclone Philin the snow was so heavy, Chinese machinery took 72 hours to open just one lane of the road :. The landscape changed drastically with more green and height is now just mtrs. Previous: Visa and Flights to China. There are many land borders of China with neighboring countries except with India, I knew of crossing overland to China from following countries:. Myanmar — With some requirement of additional permits from Muse to Ruili but note in Myanmar side you need special permits as these belt is infamous for Kachin militants, permit is not cheap either. I have excluded Hongkong and Macau which are two special administrative region of China but you need separate Chinese visa to enter mainland china from either of these places. There are boat and road crossing between them. So out of the above 10 countries which has overland border crossing with China, except Nepal, visa processing is same for others. This is more interesting topic of discussion who might have a dream of making it from Europe to Singapore overland as most likely you need to cross China sometimes Unless India-Myanmar-Thailand overland is possible and you can get through Iran — Pakistan — India leg. Just before our trip in China, suddenly Chinese Govt stopped issuing visa from Kyrgyzstan embassy for non citizens and lots of foreigners who are making their ambitious Eurasian trip overland had to abort their trip midway. So when you plan to visit China through other countries, plan your route and visa accordingly. Also whatever process I will describe below is actually what I experienced in Chinese consulates in India, a lot of people have different experiences in getting Chinese visa from one consulate to others in same time. So it depends on the consulate where you are applying for, check the history of it in some international travel forum. The Chinese visa rule changes very frequently as well, so before your trip, keep yourself updated with the process from local consulates. In India, there are 3 consulates, in Delhi, Mumbai and Kolkata and they have their respective jurisdiction and as of when I asked them last. People having passports issued from Gujarat, Maharashtra and Karnataka can apply in Mumbai. You need to have 6 months of validity in your passport on date of application. A covering letter mentioning your intent of travel and a detail travel itinerary. Your confirmed hotel booking voucher in each place of stay Yes for a 30 days trip, you need to show proof of hotel for all 30 days. You have to apply visa through their authorized visa processing agent VFS Global in respective cities where consulate is located. Mention of TAR would not allow you to apply for visa with VFS, and makes it extremely complicated as VFS would direct you to Consulate directly who has clearly mentioned as their policy that Indians are allowed in Tibet as pilgrims only and in a group visa. So now you understand requirement 4, 6 and 7 would make your lives complicated, this mean you need a fictitious itinerary to start with and then support that with relevant documents. To write it simply, I prepared. Itinerary of 40 days will make you eligible to get 60 days single entry visa which makes life little simple as otherwise for a long trip if you are delayed you are risking yourself to get into the tangle to visa extension. Then support it with hotel bookings, not a real problem as you can use many global booking engine to do this and then cancel it without any extra charge. The real problem is air ticket, you need to either get a full fare air ticket which is fully refundable or you need to book something very cheap may be like Air Asia which you can throw away. Air Connectivity: Following Airlines were the choice for you to get your real and fictitious tickets. So discuss with your agent on how you can make it. Entering China Tibet from Nepal:. This is handled in a separate way through a treaty between China and Nepal. Only Group visa for a minimum group size of 5 people are issued which in was even stricter and all 5 were to be with same nationalities which was relaxed in but catch is it comes with your Tibet permit as from Nepal you have to enter into Tibet first to get into China. Consulate in Kathmandu only opens 3 days a week and you need to be present in Kathmandu keeping one working day in hand to allow agent to complete paperwork, consult your Kathmandu agent for your detail plan and arrival in Nepal. Most importantly be careful as you are taking a big risk of not acclimatizing yourself by taking friendship highway from Kathmandu side. At Kathmandu you are at mtr, at Drum China Immigration you will be at mtr and then in another hour or so you will reach Nayalam which is at mtr and the height will never go below mtr after that, next stop Tingri or Pelbar will be at mtr. Previous: Recommended time of Travel. Next: Things to keep in mind. When you are spending so much financially and emotionally you should understand the best time to travel in the region. Actually there is no best time of travel that we know very well, few of us now have been to Ladakh probably in all 12 months of the year but still getting into Tibet so frequently is not easy, more so for Indians. Xinjiang is divided centrally by Tienshan Mountain. All hotels remain closed during this time and unless you are eyeing for a specific Ski destination and using flight from Urumqi, Northern Xinjiang is out of bound in long winter. Southern Xinjiang which is between Tienshan range in North to Kunlun range in South, named as Tarim Basin, is mostly covered by Taklamakan Desert, very cold in winter with snow toppings on Taklamakan red sand makes it look very beautiful. Hotels in southern part usually opened during year long, though Kashgar, Hotan, Yarkhand, the main towns on silk road might be snow bound between December to February. Karakoram Highway is completely snow bound but kept operational by Chinese till Tashkurgan. The Western Highway is anyway out of question which goes through Aksai Chin just because of terrific weather. Though trucks keep plying and Chinese keep this mtr road operational through out the year just for strategic reasons. Spring time, April and May usually shoulder season and you get it in cheap but infamous for frequent Dust Storms, The Desert Dust Storms can be deadly to stop air traffic even for 72 hours and it sometimes take 2 weeks for the dust to settle down. The best time to Travel is summer which is between June to August and usually lush green grassland of Yili Kazak side or Altai Northern Side are its best during this time with lots of Siberian Birds of different species. Weather is sunny with least rain and blue sky even in Southern side and all roads are open but of course this is time when everything is very costly. Autumn is short, just in September for Northern and Sep and Oct for Southern Xinjiang show you tremendous fall colors and give still bearable temperature in North We still got lowest 10 degree below freezing point and roads are all open. But sometimes you will face dust storms in Fall too. But this is a shoulder season and if you are budget conscious and can give the green of grassland a miss which is a huge miss you can eye on this time. Xinjiang is avoidable in the month of Ramadan, this is a Muslim dominated region and you never know the threat perception of Chinese Govt, you might get caught in between and mess up your plan. Tashkurgan Grassland — vast grassland gone till China — Pakistan Border for km:. Tajik-China Border Immigration — Border is just 14km away but not yet opened for foreigners:. The reason is this is the time when uprising took place and since then for these 2 months Tibet was closed for foreigners in every year. One such stream met with an Westerlies from Arabian sea, did the massacre in Uttrakhand, this summer, the other side of hill Tibet was battered too. For Northern Tibet Nag qu region , the grassland is at its best in June, July and August, from Sep the grass started turning brown and red. The weather is very similar to our North East, more close to Arunachal. Cost is lowest in Nov and Dec with weather slightly with you, you can enjoy even the clear view of Everest. July and August usually is rainy season when Lhasa receives highest rainfall and Everest will be covered in cloud. So weather wise if you want best, May and October is the best bet for you. During whole , the year of Beijing Olympic they kept the Tibet shut, as I mentioned in some early post, it was closed during the Communist Party Congress in October Travel Permits in contrary is not costly, many times absolutely free but need so much effort and ability to speak fluent Chinese, you have to depend on agencies and they would certainly charge you something. I was depending on my drivers English speaking to manage the show but most who travels independently using public transport prefers to use some offline Chinese — English Translator to manage it. You can search it in Amazon. Tibetan Landscape will cast a magical spell on you, see the far away small village, near one is Tingri, gateway to Everest North Base Camp and enjoy the amazing colors:. Can you see the little dark cone in middle, highest point in world, Mt. Everest North Face — My first sight of the dream:. How much colorful a landscape can be? Has God used all colors in His palettes to draw this canvas:. Everest North Face gives you more clear view of the whole ridge than when you watch it from South, because of other high mountains in front it, Just left see the 4th Highest Peak of World, Mt. Lhotse — Another long cherished dream accomplished. Road is going to Eternity as the Friendship highway turned south and started climbing high Himalayas:. Previous: Travel Restrictions in Xinjiang and Tibet. Next: Visa and Flights to China. This is an important part of any planning to this region, China is a very much controlled state and information is few and far, also getting latest yet correct information is quite a big challenge even for big travel agents. Best way is to connect as many as local travel agents who can speak at least some English and then use their network to get more details about that, it is time taking and plan your travel accordingly. Most of the land border crossing is only operational during week days and in certain hours and you need to keep in mind local time too Kazak and China is having 3 hours time difference. Vehicle crossing permitted with appropriate regulations to be followed in both end. There is no formal border crossing here. Maikapchagai Kazak -Jeminay China — This Kazakh border is open for 3rd country tourists to cross over but no vehicle crossing permitted. Khorgas — The largest and busiest border crossing between China and Kazakh, open for 3rd countries, neither of the above does allow vehicle crossing as far as I understood, most Europeans thus choose to cross to China from Kyrghiz specially those in a driving trip. Torugart Pass between China and Kyrghiz — Restricted crossing but opened for foreigners and need to take special transport from Kyrghiz Immigration to Chinese immigration or vice versa and in both side you need prearranged transport with adequate proof. I heard this crossing is costly takes around USD. Vehicle crossing possible with usual Chinese Vehicle crossing restrictions. Presently road is good in Chinese side. Irkeshtam Pass between China and Kyrghiz — Cheaper crossing as you can use public transport to border to cross unlike Torugart. Opened for foreigners, Chinese side km road is in very bad shape, supposed to be rebuilt and ready by Vehicle crossing is allowed with usual restrictions. Qolma Pass Crossing between China and Tajikistan — Not opened for Third Countries only opened for Tajik and Chinese Nationals but if opened it will be one of the easiest route to to Europe — Asia Drive with minimum number of border crossing. Wakhan Corridor between Afghanistan and China — At historic Wakjhir Pass mtr this is difficult pass and Marco Polo crossed China through this, this is completely closed border, though China has finished a metallic road up to the border, in Afghanistan side there is no infrastructure as of now for next km. During battle with Taliban, NATO wanted to use this route for their supply lines as this area is relatively free of the strong hold of Taliban but Chine declined it showing internal security concern. This is sharpest official change of clock of 3. Kunjerab Pass between Pakistan Pakistan Occupied Kashmir and China : Highest paved border crossing in world, at mtr, this pass is closed between 30th Nov to 1st May every year due to snow. When opened, due to inhospitable terrain, the actual immigration happens km away at Tashkurgan in China and 75km away at Sost in Pakistan. With a special pass arranged from Kashgar, foreigners without Pakistan Visa can travel up to 2km of actual border gate shown in the picture I posted earlier. No International Border Actually the border with India but more sensitive to China than any of these international border as Western Highway crosses Aksai Chin which is claimed by both India and China. Some foreigners get special permit to drive through this epic road which became now much more difficult after Tibet uprising and for Indians this road from Mazar km from Karghilik from where K2 North Base Camp Trek starts to Rutog is completely prohibited. Police even keep watching every tourist staying night in Karghilik to watch is someone tries to sneak into this road by hitch hiking in a truck. Centrally Located Narat — Bayanbulak Grassland region — No apparent reason why this is protected but unofficial sources said this is sensitive for Military installation and permits are required to be obtained from CIT China International Travel, Xinjiang for any foreigner to stay night in this region. This is year I heard this is little relaxed but even last year people were simply thrown out of the town in middle of night during police checking in the hotels when found without permit. Everest North Base camp comes in this prefecture and you need a separate and costly permit to go there. Not at all easy to get into Tsangpo gorge zone from permit perspective. For foreigners permit requirements are same as Nyingchi Prefecture. All the Nepal based operators are connected through them only and any India based agent is mostly connected through one of those Nepal based agents. Nagqu Prefecture — The vast grassland in North, best way to see them to take the train, road is very limited and most of the part of this prefecture is closed for foreigners. So before any planning, keep your thumb rules ready, Xinjiang is possible with some tweaking in visa application, Tibet is your luck and Ngiri and Nyingchi is almost impossible unless you are extremely lucky. Is there any dog which is bigger than this Tibetan Mastiff? Next: Recommended time of Travel. Well, before going to detail planning, let me try to give an idea of the route map, it was so long a trip and we touched upon so many places, you might feel lost unless I show it in a map. But both are pretty accurate. The flight route was bypassing Tibet Plateau, rather going north to fly between Chengdu and Chongging and then go up to Langzhou in North and then taking a West turn to cross the Gobi desert just south of Mongolia — China Border to reach finally Urumqi. We saw multi colored Bay on the way. A-B Day 3 — Short drive of km from Burqin to Jiadengyu which is gateway of Kanas Nature Park and explore the park, this is extremely close to border of Mongolia, Russia and Kazakhstan with China and the climate is just like Southern Siberian Tundra, in Sep, we were experiencing degree C at night here. Karamay is the oil city of China, you can see natural oil spring here. Xinjiang Map See the Blue Lines and above description to understand the route. Overland travel from Kashgar to Lhasa, which would offer an alternative to backtracking to Golmud:. This epic highway that starts from Karghilik Yecheng in Chinese , a town between Yarkhand and Hotan, crosses more than ten meters pass with average altitude of meters is considered as deadliest and loneliest highway in planet earth. The highway ends at Lhatse when it meets with Highway between Shanghai and Kathmandu via Lhasa more often known as Friendship Highway. The Highway is now completely paved and the road work was completed just in and after forking it from Yecheng, it goes up to cross Kunlun and part of Karakoram ranges through Mazar From where the Mt. The road goes further down south and then turned East and passes through Mt. Kailash and Mansarovar region which is considered holiest place in Hindu and Buddhist religion. After Mansarovar the road goes further km east to reach last prominent town of Ngari, named Saga and from here the road is forked in 3 different direction. The right turn towards south will take you to Zhangmu, Tibet-Nepal border and further to Kathmandu. The main road goes further East and meet Highway in Lhatse and ends there. The altitude jump between Yecheng meter to Dongluitan meter is proved to be fatal in one night as there is no place to stay in between. AMS can be triggered severely and in that remote region can be fatal. Getting all necessary permits for Tibet is a big ask to arrange from Kashgar end and you need more logistics support of getting all done in Lhasa and then couriered to you in Kashgar, which is costly and prone to chance factor. Of course the cost will be high. To go through this road one need a. Tibet Permit b. Alien Permit c. Sensitive border permit d. Army Permit e. Permit from Foreign Affairs Ministry. Foreigners are not allowed to use local transport in Tibet and you need to hire private transport and guide for Tibet. Usually many foreign tourist adopt a trick of hitchhiking the stretch between Yecheng and Ali in some trucks and then when caught in Ali without permit, they pay the fine and the Chinese send them to Kathmandu border or towards Lhasa. With family this was not possible for me and also now a days police monitors every truck and catch anyone who tries to sneak in without permit. Now for Indians this stretch between Yecheng to Ali read crossing Aksai Chin is absolutely off limit. I got 4 permits and spoke to their external affairs ministry and they said I could take the rest of the trip except between Yecheng and Ali overland. My only option then was to take a flight from Kashgar to Ali which was very overpriced and only a weekly connection and the biggest risk was I needed to get all permits in place to board the flight. To cut long story short, if you are in Non-Indian Passport and take this trip from Lhasa to Kashgar direction and ready to spend a fortune, you can experience this amazing road. Muztag Ata — mtr high peak in Kunlun range in the backdrop of Karakul Lake with Kyrghiz Yurts, you will love to stay:. Authentic Tibetan debates on Buddhism still taken place in Sera Monastery of course under supervision and closely guarded:. Every mtr your hand bag will be scanned and you will be searched. Normally photography is strictly prohibited in these searching places and they can snatch your camera if they find you shoot this. Tibet is now like a closed cage, worries are evident even in these young faces. Next: Travel Restrictions in Xinjiang and Tibet. We never thought we would go for a trip out of India so soon when India has so many things to offer but destiny had something else written for us. The place hosts 13 different ethic minority groups starts from Mongols, Kazakh, Kirghiz, Tuwa, Tajikh etc. Now when I started reading about its history it was even more amazing, the history dated back years from BCE when first trade established between Rome through Turkey, Iran to China through this route famously known as Silk Route. The then Persian Empire in helm of power, this land and its natives have a root with that Persian Blood saw many bloodsheds starting from inter group conflicts to its switching loyalties to two of biggest empires of history Russia and England and finally settled to be part of modern days People Republic of China in mid of last century. This was the time when they employed native Indians, disguised as Buddhist Pilgrims to survey these most treacherous region of earth starting from Pamir to Tibet and it was time when world came to know highest points on earth lies in this region as Himalayan peaks were measured for their heights and they tamed all other mountains, this resulted into creation of famous McMahon line that still runs as demarcation of India and China with lots of disputes. So I found a place which was so much discussed in my school days history and geography text books and that triggered my childhood dream to visit this place and walk on the same path Marco Polo and Huen Tsang followed. Not sure how and when I slowly started thinking that I must visit this place, a dream slept for quarter of a century was rekindled. Initial plan was traveling the state of Xinjiang and following the ancient trade route that used to get diverted from Yarkhand, start elevating to cross Kunlun and Karakoram Pass to enter the Daulat Beg Oldie area of Northern Ladakh and then follow Saser La to Panamik and Nubra Valley and finally reaching Leh by crossing Khardung La, the road continues to Kashmir Valley via Zojila and finally hit Punjab Plains. We thought of taking western highway regarded as deadliest and loneliest road in earth to cross over Aksai Chin to Tibet and then coming out through Kathmandu. The plan was in place until June when recent Sino Indian conflict reached it peak and I got taste of my first sweet Chinese diplomacy. We would cover in depth later but just to let you know to cover this region you need 5 permits on top of Chinese Visa and one of them was foreign affairs permit for which I spoke to the foreign affairs ministry of China and what I finally got was a raw deal expected for an Indian. I was given few conditions which was not just way too costly but impossible and conflicting my main objective of driving through this region. So obviously if you write in your visa application that you would like to visit Xinjiang and Tibet, Chinese would take the application with INR and thankfully send you a polite note declining the visa but they would mention you can apply again as if this is just an isolated case and if you apply, you would loose again your application money, nothing else would happen. So challenges are countless and we are just two adults and one child, determined to go to Chinese hinterland, see the China what few Chinese even have seen in their life. Just a few for you:. Skip to content Day We took rest in the hotel in morning after a long hectic drive for last fortnight. Day The day we had planned for our day trip to Turpan. Day 0 As we had the flight around If you see the map below you would easily understand that we are trying to reach from Tienshan mountain range to Altai mountain ranges in North during this day The route as I mentioned was long and there are two main highways of Northern Xinjiang meet at Beitun, Highway going through eastern side and Highway going through western side of the big centrally located Gurbantunggut Desert which is connected to Gobi in Eastern part towards Mongolia. Few things on Lhasa Train: 1. Negotiate with the agent on commission but that depends on time of travel. Kailash: Seems Heavenly: After Cyclone Philin the snow was so heavy, Chinese machinery took 72 hours to open just one lane of the road : Thong La around mtr: Inside mighty Himalayas: Never seen a sunset in Himalayas sitting on top of it. The landscape changed drastically with more green and height is now just mtrs First View of Kathmandu where our epic journey ends as we catch flight back home from here: Previous: Visa and Flights to China Next: Day 0, 1 and 2. There are many land borders of China with neighboring countries except with India, I knew of crossing overland to China from following countries: 1. Laos 3. Vietnam — You can cross even in Train from Nanning 4. North Korea — Train crossing possible. Russia — Only possible through Trans Manchurian Rail 6. Mongolia — Couple of borders along with possibility of using Trans Mongolian Rail 7. Kazakhstan — Both by road and train crossing possible. Kyrgyzstan 9. Pakistan Nepal I have excluded Hongkong and Macau which are two special administrative region of China but you need separate Chinese visa to enter mainland china from either of these places. People having passports issued from Gujarat, Maharashtra and Karnataka can apply in Mumbai 2. Rest all have to apply in Delhi. The requirements were: 1. Passport Issue should be within consulate jurisdiction as I mentioned above. You need to fill up an application form with your photo. A covering letter mentioning your intent of travel and a detail travel itinerary 5. Your confirmed hotel booking voucher in each place of stay Yes for a 30 days trip, you need to show proof of hotel for all 30 days You have to apply visa through their authorized visa processing agent VFS Global in respective cities where consulate is located. To write it simply, I prepared 1. Chinese: 1. China Southern — Connects Delhi — Guangzhou 3. Air India — Connects Delhi — Shanghai 2. Jet — Connects Delhi — Shanghai 3. Pros: 1. Tibet Permit will be coming with it, a big plus. Con: 1. Golden Rules: 1. Just pray that things go well during your visit, Tibet is terribly uncertain. Everest North Face — My first sight of the dream: How much colorful a landscape can be? Most of the land border crossing is only operational during week days and in certain hours and you need to keep in mind local time too Kazak and China is having 3 hours time difference 1. With a special pass arranged from Kashgar, foreigners without Pakistan Visa can travel up to 2km of actual border gate shown in the picture I posted earlier Shannan — Same as Shigatse 4. The Road journey starts from Urumqi. The major problem of taking this route from Kashgar to Lhasa direction was 1. Permit from Foreign Affairs Ministry 3. Now some snaps. This cutie has played a long hide and seek game with me before I could catch a snap: Previous: Prologue Next: Travel Restrictions in Xinjiang and Tibet.

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Buy Cannabis Urumqi

In this article I will describe the problems I have faced on my many trips to Urumqi and answer the question; is Urumqi safe? The short answer is yes, Urumqi is safe to visit however there are many inconveniences as you will find out below. Welcome to Xinjiang! Street signs are in Arabic, mosques and minarets pepper the skyline, tanks and armoured personnel carriers line the streets, roadblocks and checkpoints are scattered every few hundred metres and, even bus stops have their own police guard yes, every bus stop, not just the stations. Urumqi holds the record for being the furthest city from the sea 2,km from the nearest coastline and it certainly feels remote. I took the train from my city of Luoyang in central China and it was 30 hours before I stepped out into the cold winter afternoon, having boarded in shorts and a t-shirt early the previous day. Snow was fresh on the ground and a chill wind blew down from the Altai region to the North. As I was on my way back to England I had a lot of luggage with me and the first order of business was to go to left luggage and drop my bags off. I wanted to explore without dragging them around with me before taking the overnight train to Yining at the border with Kazakhstan. All stations in China have pretty stringent security measures, much like airports in the rest of the world, but Urumqi was something else entirely. I queued up for an hour outside the station to go through the metal detector and have my bags x-rayed and was then pulled aside for my bags to be opened and searched more thoroughly. Once inside the station, I went to the right area for my train and then had to have my bags x-rayed again and another body search to get to the waiting area and left luggage. After being searched for the second time the police already had my bag and were waiting for me. I knew it would be about my Swiss Army Knife and pulled it out of the pocket I stored it in for easy access. I have travelled all over China on trains with this knife and assumed they would just wave it through as they had done so many times before. But things are different here and already tight laws are enforced rigidly. I phoned my girlfriend in Chengdu so she could help translate and try and reason with the security people but to no avail. The knife in question was a gift given to me for Christmas in Budapest five years previously. It has travelled with me everywhere and is one of my most prized possessions for its usefulness on the road. I was not going to just give it up without a fight, so I asked them to give me back the knife and I was escorted out of the station, a huge suitcase and bags in tow. After a few minutes of collecting my thoughts, I decided to take a taxi into town and try and post the knife back to my address in Luoyang. Predictably, they were unable or unwilling to let me post the knife back so now I was at a total loss and in a very bad mood. The area seemed run down and hostile. Even the school kids seemed menacing as a group of them kicked a bottle down the road. I went inside the fast-food restaurant and was surprised that even here there was a metal detector at the door and again, myself and my bags were searched by two policemen inside the restaurant. In a strange twist of fate, it just so happened that she was in a lecture with a classmate from Urumqi and he would ask his brother to help me. He arranged for me to meet a friend of his, hand over the knife, and they would post it back by courier, which should evade the search. It seemed like a bit of a mission, but I was now determined not to let the bastards win and so was worth one more shot. We arranged a place to meet and I took a taxi for the short ride to his apartment. Just as my phone ran out of battery, this guy asked if I was Steve, we shook hands and I gave him the knife, and with that, he was gone. Save for the kindness of those that helped me, I was not in a hurry to ever come back to Urumqi and went back to the station to catch my train West click here for information on the border crossing to Kazakhstan. It seems that I am not the only person to have my patience tested travelling in Xinjiang. Since my first fateful trip to Urumqi in , I have returned to Xinjiang another 5 times. So, be warned, and ensure you have nothing sensitive on your phone when travelling this region, especially if crossing the border into Central Asia. Click on a tour to find out more! Urumqi lies 2, miles west of Beijing , however it is still quite possible to get there by train. There are two trains per day from Beijing taking between 30 and 37 hours depending on which train you take. Check out my guide to buying train tickets in China for more. Need a VPN for China? Discover the best Virtual Private Network for travelling in China. Check out my new article about safety in China. Is China safe to visit in ? About the author: Steve Rohan is a writer from Essex, England. He has traveled to over 60 countries, lived in Armenia, China and Hong Kong, and is now living the digital nomad life on the road. He has been interviewed multiple times by the BBC and recently featured in the documentary Scariest Places in the World. See the About page for more info. I have never been to Urumqi myself and I am certainly not planning to, but the reasons you have given are utterly ridiculous. I just come from Urumqi in february during Covid. Everyone was very helpful and friendly. No kalaschnikow at all. My Swiss knife was taken away at Kashgar station. Everything was very difficult because of covid. But these poeple were wonderful and I thank them for assistance. I have been back to Urumqi four or five times since and each time the security is worse. Last time they even went through my phone which I was very unhappy about! The other content on your website looks pretty cool! Sorry if my tone was a little ruder than it should have been. Thank you for the apology, but no need. You are entitled to your opinion. Best wishes, Steve. We just came back from our 1-month trip along the Silk road in China, and wish we had read your post before going. When we took the train from Liu Yuan outside of Dunhuang to Turpan, they also confiscated our knife at the train station. In fact, it was a camping set with a fork, a knife and a spoon! Like you, we had also traveled throughout China from Beijing to Dunhuang with that camping set and never had a problem until the moment we wanted to enter Xinjiang province. Hi, thanks for sharing your experience and sorry that you faced similar problems. Hope you enjoyed the rest of your time in Central Asia though! Unlike every other airport I have ever been in in the world, the Detroit Airport did not have the means or at least pretended that they did not have the means for me to directly, quickly, and easily check my bags on to my Final Destination — Spokane, Washington — without me hauling my bags remember, these are my checked bags we are talking about to my departure gate itself and checking them at the gate. Obviously this is very, very strange, because it means you would have to take checked bags THROUGH departure security screening…and the whole point of checking luggage prior to this is or at least use to be……airports have been a mess since post , really so that you can pack things like knives, guns in places guns are legal to possess , etc. I had traveled the world numerous times over before this, and have since traveled the world numerous times over after this never again going through Detroit! And yes, they were absolute and complete bastards about it :! I can relate to this kind of thing very well, Steve! How on Earth does this relate to Urumqi? I read your blog because here I am in my 5th year living in Eastern China, and my dream has always been to go to the extreme Northwest of China. Where abouts in Eastern China are you based? Cheers, Steve. Interesting content here. Why would they even give it back to you? Thanks for taking your time. Hi, thanks for your comment! Your email address will not be published. Table of Contents Toggle. Backpacking in China. Is Xinjiang Safe? August 23, at am Reply. Cornelia says: I just come from Urumqi in february during Covid. May 11, at am Reply. August 24, at pm Reply. April 13, at pm Reply. Mei and Kerstin says: We just came back from our 1-month trip along the Silk road in China, and wish we had read your post before going. August 31, at pm Reply. February 11, at am Reply. February 11, at pm Reply. May 31, at pm Reply. Andreas says: Ha! August 4, at pm Reply. August 5, at pm Reply. 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Buy Cannabis Urumqi