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Called The Prostitute by locals, it had been straightforward routefinding with the standard avy precautions. Mostly, it had been plain great skiing on wide-open, moderately pitched slopes in brilliant sunshine. With strained metaphors and wan puns rolling off our tongues, we agreed she had dispensed her favours willingly, satisfyingly and at a remarkably low cost. But now we were transitioning from fall-line skiing to the exit phase, which can be an intricate undertaking in the Alps. For The Prostitute, it meant a long traverse along an ancient military track running between avalanche start zones above and big cliffs below, followed by a brief respite in the aforesaid tunnel, then more sidehill traversing, with a finale of tree skiing before reaching our ride at a local highway. Would The Prostitute grant us a discrete exit? Or keep us in her clutches to extract payment? I ditched any idea of applying the brakes and shot along the track beneath avalanche chutes and over successive zones of debris until rounding a last pile of mud-streaked chunks brought the open tunnel into view. Just enough snow had sluffed inside to permit hurling myself sideways on the last patch of sunlight and hockey-stopping inside the entrance short of piling up on verglas -covered boulders. The whorehouse equivalent of a smoke break between rounds. Blatantly sexist to current hyper-attentive sensibilities, but in Italy, one is never far from history. Even in the highest mountains one views wartime fortifications carved into cliffs or comes across scraps of barbed wire or shell fragments. Glaciers periodically disgorge remains of some unfortunate soldier who escaped being blown to bits only to fall into a crevasse. The village sits at 6, feet, which would be low in Colorado or Utah but is very high for the Alps. Smooth-faced mountains with a jumble of detachable chairlifts rise to the north. Alessio, Cindy my sweetheart and I spend a couple of fun mornings cruising along perfect groomers just long enough to find suitable powder slopes, then off we go. The other side, very much so. Slopes sweep up steepening into a massive, miles-long cliff-wall punctuated by a couple of alpine cirques and several tight couloirs. A modern high-speed gondola scales one of these cirques and passes through a notch in the cliff wall. Beyond that, a high hanging glaciated valley saddles out at 10, feet and gives access to the Adamello Glacier area. If you avoid obsessively demystifying the place ahead of time on Google maps or topo apps, Passo del Tonale and the Adamello Glacier zone are a varied and fascinating area that can yield one discovery after another, including descents of over a vertical mile. As they did for me. One easy hit is known simply as The Couloir. Other areas might have more snow but be overrun with people, or have the biggest relief and the most impressive peaks but get great snow only about every 10 th year. After all, we were in Italy , a culture that lives and breathes wonderful food, wine and coffee. I say that only because, historically, Italian establishments had a very uncertain relationship with plumbing. Not here. In addition, there was some bizarre lighting circuitry in which LEDs would randomly dissolve among various garish colours. Of course, I was here to do real touring. The snowfall had resumed after our descents of The Couloir and The Prostitute and, as we rode the gondola the next morning, we saw the wind had blown as well. Traversing from the top station was pure slab. We travelled ultra-conservatively, staying on low ridgetops, ever-conscious of hazards above, below and beside. Not so some others. One guy on skinny ski-mo gear kicked off a wind slab, got carried down a ways, picked himself up and promptly skied into a huge slab pillow, burying himself neck-deep. Lower down, some split-boarders were ripping turns on a sun-baked slope that had already detached three slabs. Alessio and I timed things to shoot across between their runs as far from the run outs as we could get. At last we were in the relative safety of the skin-up area. Across ran the long, sinuous, heavily crevassed Adamello Glacier. And beyond that, numerous additional peaks and glaciers that would warrant a multi-week visit rather than my meagre four days. The Adamello Glacier and its huts are where a young Polish cleric named Karol Wojtyla many decades ago would visit for the feelings of height, solitude and physical effort that, he felt, brought him closer to God. He went on to climb major peaks in the Himalayas, summiting Dhaulagiri, and also crossing the North Pole. Alessio and I had a more achievable summit in mind. We were able to stay on a relatively protected shoulder for much of the two-and-a-half-hour ascent. I kept thinking that my Canadian avalanche course instructors would suffer a series of heart attacks, strokes and exploding heads at the sight of me right now, and my choice of route would flunk me out of any Canadian course. Before long we were at our saddle and into the usual ritual of unskinning, swapping layers, having a drink and snack and clamping down our boots. A few other ski tourers and splitboarders were doing the same, and all were questioning Alessio and wondering why a North American would come here. Although it sounds too good to be true, the slopes we were contemplating had been copiously dumped upon but looked utterly untouched by wind. Blower wherever any snow could settle, framed by massive cliffs. We pushed off, well-spaced, and were instantly waist-deep and engulfed not merely by face-shots but descending entire face pitches. As we stopped between pitches, we looked up and noticed a couple of them skiing in our tracks. One section was, admittedly, too flat to turn much even on our wider skis. Gradient soon returned, however, and three successively steeper pitches followed. One of them must have been 1, vertical feet all by itself. Though still very light, the snow was slightly settled, allowing us to accelerate into fast ripping turns, throwing our skis far out away from us and ending up nearly chest-deep at each apex. Now we were in a narrow valley beneath a mile of rocky, snow-blasted relief in the dazzling late-morning sun. At the mouth of this valley lay the village of Ponte di Legno at 4, feet. After shooting past the last danger zone, another 2, vertical feet of pleasant glades, tree skiing and zig-zaggy forest trail lay ahead. Everything remained attached. This winter I'm hoping to put my new guiding certification to use by tail-guiding at one or two B. Currently you have JavaScript disabled. In order to post comments, please make sure JavaScript and Cookies are enabled, and reload the page. Click here for instructions on how to enable JavaScript in your browser. Search for:. Defying the Prostitute. George Koch. George Koch This winter I Notify of. Inline Feedbacks. On Stands Now! Ascent Store. Instagram Feed ascentbackcountry. In an effort to reduce crowded slopes, and direct. Salt Lake City friends, pick it up now at your fav. Jackson Hole friends! Pick up the new issue in tow. Slopeside accommodations. Here it is! Now taking subscription orders for imm. Ruby Mountains days and cowboy nights. A great wee. Here we go. Just a couple of days until it goes to. A trip to Tahoe for some Sierra fun. Wind, snow, s. Besides the Ascent, there are some other good ones. Dreaming of Antarctica…. Thanks to the utavy for hosting the annual fundra. 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Buy Cannabis Passo Tonale

Registration's totally free, of course, and makes snowHeads easier to use and to understand, gives better searching, filtering etc. When you register, you get our free weekly -ish snow report by email. It's rather good and not made up by tourist offices or people that love the tourist office and want to marry it either We don't share your email address with anyone and we never send out any of those cheesy 'message from our partners' emails either. Anyway, snowHeads really is MUCH better when you're logged in - not least because you get to post your own messages complaining about things that annoy you like perhaps this banner which, incidentally, disappears when you log in Username:- Password:. Or: Register to be a proper snow-head, all official-like! Prev topic :: Next topic. Poster: A snowHead. Hi all Season's greetings to you all Helen will be a happy bunny, I'm sure We are also prepared to drive if we need to though, which would bring PG's neck of the woods back as a possibility. Our limitations are: transport to the country, transfer to the resort, non-skier activities and, most importantly, cost! Before I go any further - a note to those who read this group and have 'commercial interests' We actually like apartments yes, even the small French ones! These often cost little more than the liftpass itself would cost. Sadly, they're not always available Anyway, enough whinging. I am perfectly happy for anyone with a commercial interest to offer me accommodation, but please bear in mind the points I have raised above if you do so! I know that several people from lower fremch resorts have contacted me and said, 'oh, we're ususally fine in April' but that's the kicker Passo Tonale looks like our best bet Thanks for any input Cheers, Carl. Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person. If you can wait, I'll give you an unbiased comparison of all three once we get back. Cheers, Clive. Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see? Good amount of intermediate ski-ing, excellent lift system and above all an excellent snow record. We have been to Passo Tonale once before and are going again on 28th January as we liked it so much. Much less of a transfer, excellent lift system, not just as much ski-ing as livigno, but if conditions are good you can ski down to Pontidiligno m. The bars and restaurants in Passo Tonale are better value than Livigno although there isn't as much choice. This will be my 11th week ski-ing and although Passo ain't the biggest resort I am attracted back again by its: Easy Transfer, Good Snow record and altitude, excellent lift system, long runs, good value food and drink. I think you would be happy in Livigno or Tonale. If you want to know anything more just ask. You need to Login to know who's really who. Cervinia has a large cruisey ski area, and lots of hotels. There is an apartment complex a way out of the centre. Bormio has steeper skiing and is close to Santa Caterina which has gentler slopes, quite friendly for novices. Hotels mostly again. Livigno is a long spread out valley with skiing on both sides, medium difficulty terrain, lots of small hotels and small apartment buildings. La Thuile is linked to La Rosiere in France and has good cruising terrain, plus the potential for heli-skiing on the Italian side. Big apartment and hotel complex at the foot of the slopes. If you fancy Les Arcs, then you may want to consider the board arrangements at a holiday complex, which I believe is called La Renouveau. It is a big, budget place and the whole of your party could be accommodated there. PG has used it in the past for big groups, and says the food is good. If you think it could be of interest, you could PM him for contact details. Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. I ahve been to La Thuile and Livigno, personally hated Livigno, boring place and boring skiing, liked Thuille good skiing and you can ski in France and Italy. You'll need to Register first of course. Then you can post your own questions or snow reports Now they've re-opened the off-piste with a guide , there's some incredible skiing to be had. If all you're after is racking up piste numbers like 'Munros' then fine, it's not what you're looking for. There are two more reasons why Livigno's on the go to list. It's tax free and for that you can find some seriously good deals for a big range of products. After all it is free. Cheers all. Must say from the early feedback that Tonale is sounding like the place to go. Livigno is tempting, but I just don't want to put the group through the huge transfer. I once did Lyon to Risoul at 5 and a half hours or so Shame I can't go a week earlier as the lift pass is free! You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net. Have a look at Madonna di Campiglio maybe beyond your budget or its much cheaper neighbour Folgarida both about 2 hours from Verona. I skiied in Madonna first week of April about 4 years ago and had a great time. They often get good late snow. Ski the Net with snowHeads. I share your ethos towards value for money skiing, Carled. Madesimo is small but perfectly formed, just head north from Bergamo. Wine was 1 Euro a glass in our hotel in Foppolo is on the same road but closer - no longer in teh TO brochures. Bormio is a good bet but longer transfer, c 3 hrs. Must say, Passo Tonale is the least fave of my Italian experiences, not helped as we went in March and the sun melted the slopes by noon, most of which were spread side by side across the side of one mountain excellent for absolute novices but lacking a sense of isolation and exploration. Ah, now you see that's one of the things worrying me Looking at the piste maps it is a bit lumped on one side Allegedly 80km of piste, but in poor snow conditions, there will be far less than that. It'd be nice to have good snow, but it's in the lap of the gods by then, isn't it? Trouble is, there is very little guaranteed snow at that time of year, isn't there? Anywhere we go is completely down to good fortune as to whether the conditions will be good or not and we know that, we're not expecting pristine snow and can cope quite happily with slush! T-Dub , the other resorts you mention are all quite a bit lowere though, aren't they? If Passo is struggling, then they're going to be struggling equally as much, so surely it makes sense to head as high as poss and, at the very worst, Passo has the glacier. The only real alternative is to look at the high French resorts, but then we're back to mega lift pass prices and we still can't guarantee snow! Oh, for a reliable long-range weather forecast And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports. At metres it's also very snow sure. So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much. My experience of Tonale was in January There was a severe snow drought in the Italian Alps that year. For 5 of the 6 days we skied on artifical with grass either side of the runs. Probably only half open. But we still had an excellent time and that is why I am going back. Snow conditions are really luck as in Tonale had a base of over 3m at the top in January!!! Still would consider Livigno though as the transfer is only a small part of the whole experience. You know it makes sense. Ok I think you are looking at this from the wrong end, you need to get cheap flights first and then pick a resort. Also some transfers cost a fortune. Ar Easter you obviously need to be high, without doubt the resorts that have guarenteed snow over the past 10 years have been the high resorts in France, where you can totally guatantee snow, they also offer cheap apartments. Have skied most areas in Europe so if you sort the flights out then I and others can probably reccomend the resorts. Yoy need to look at the overall price and not just lift pass also the longer you wait to book the flights the more they will cost. Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:. Little point in booking cheap flights to an airport from where the nearest snowsure resort is 5 hours transfer away, is there? It's a delicate balancing act between the right airport and the right group of potential resorts. There's also little point in booking Saturday flights if the accommodation runs Sunday - Sunday, is there? Or even vice-versa! I appreciate your help on this, but trust me, I'm a long, long way from being a greenhorn in this field! David traxvax , wondered when you'd show up! Passo Tonale is relatively high - the problems I experienced were due to the orientation of the main slope being in full blast of the March sun. The lower area Pontidiligno - was not in operation, although the glacier area was. Others to throw into the pot are Saux D'Oulx and Sestriere - an autostrada runs right along the valley they are spurred off making the transfer from Turin relatively rapid. Plenty of skiing on and between the two, and relatively good value. Cervinia is certainly snow sure, the web cams showed people skiing right up to June last year. It's so high that even if it doesn't snow from end of January onwards there is still plenty to ski on. There is the benefit of the glacier, and Zermatt on the other side of the Matterhorn. Lots of runs, though not much variety in scenery at that altitude, and the resort is set below the start of the lift system, so there are steps everywhere to get to the lifts at the start of the day. Food and drink is of average cost, a few restaurants in town, plus pizza places, and lots of good mountain eateries. Airports — Geneva 2 hours, Turin 2 hours, and easy to get to buy road. New Topic Post Reply. Snow Snow Snow! Solo Skiers v Groups - Orga Archives Lost and Found Ski Club of Great Britain To one side secret Mountain Hideout snowShops You cannot post to forums until you login You cannot read some forums until you login Read about snow conditions : snow conditions And leave your own snow report : snow report Find advice to help plan your ski holidays : ski holidays The snowHeads Ski Club : Ski Club 2. Terms and conditions Privacy Policy. Snow Reports. Thoughts on a few Italian resorts from anyone that's been? After all it is free After all it is free. So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much. Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name: Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:.

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