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As fate, as love, or as the alphabet would have it, Bohunice comes first in my journey through the 48 neighborhoods of Brno. This is wonderful to me, for a few reasons. And when we are not in front of a screen, we are walking quickly to get some Starbucks or Kofi-Kofi, or to grab some Indian food or a Whopper at the food court. Or to buy a new phone. Or to buy a new coat. Or to buy—almost anything. Its stylish, swirling design creates a feeling of openness and freedom — while at the same time directing our every movement, keeping our eyes on brand names and keeping our feet turning back again down the same store-lined paths. In many ways, the Campus is an ideal expression of the dream of global capitalism that, since the end of the Cold War, we have all been telling ourselves that we share. All this can be ours — as long as the same freedoms given to people and ideas are also given to money, and to the corporations that represent that money. Strolling through Campus, you can feel the genuine force and beauty of this globalist dream made real. In and of themselves, all these are good things, and they were undeniably gained through the shared world-dream of capitalism. And that brings me to the second reason I find Bohunice fascinating. You can feel how much of a self-contained bubble Campus is, and how segregated it is from the rest of Bohunice, if you try to walk south from Campus Square toward the older sections of the neighborhood. But in the meantime, if you do decide to make the journey on foot, you might notice something interesting — a flat diamond slab of concrete which could be easily mistaken for a sewer drain, except that it usually has some flowers and red candles on top. And during those 20 years, the landscape of Bohunice was dramatically altered. It was a tiny cluster of houses cascading down the hill, surrounded by fields and vineyards — and it stayed that way for seven hundred years. Even when it was officially incorporated into the city of Brno in , it was still just a village. You can see some amazing photos of the old village square here and here. Some big changes started in the s, after the Communist coup, when the small family farms in the area started being consolidated into large agricultural co-ops. The last remaining private farms were confiscated in But at that time, there were still only about people living here. And then, in the s, after centuries as a quiet little village, Bohunice was transformed into a massive, muddy construction site. Huge projects got underway on either side of the old settlement — the new hospital complex at the top of the hill, and the D1 motorway at the bottom. And in between, the authorities decided to build the ideal neighborhood of the future. Amid the dust and noise of the construction, roads became rows of potholes, and sewers overflowed. The death blow to old Bohunice was delivered in The mood was very agitated. No wonder — it was a huge intervention in the life of the original inhabitants. I remember my surprise when, many years ago, I first stumbled upon the little chapel of St. Cyril and Methodius, surrounded by towering apartment blocks. And in the end, I think that feeling might have been one of the main goals of the socialist city planners in the s. They wanted to impose a new version of reality on the landscape, and to sweep away any reminders of a former, less enlightened way of life. How it led to a million other injustices besides what happened here, some of them a million times worse. And what was once a mudslide at the edge of Brno is now home to thousands of people — people who are growing up here, or growing old, whose bodies and imaginations are being formed and fed by this suburb of citrus light and evergreen shadows. My own personal dreams of Czech life, and of Brno life, began to take shape here, among the concrete and juniper bushes. It has been there at least since , when I passed it every day although Snoopy is a recent addition. Most disappointing is Kalinka, since I remember when it was a claustrophobic Lord-of-the-Rings-themed acid-trip nightmare called Silmaril. I was only there once, but I seem to recall enjoying a soapy Gambrinus while staring at a styrofoam bas-relief of an orc. The only design element Kalinka has kept from Middle-earth is some bamboo in a pot near the entrance. Whoever thought it would be a great idea to associate cars with burning coffins — I salute you. Does everyone there really walk around barefoot? If you live in Bosonohy, or have any tips for me, get in touch. October 22, Trending Trending. Now Week Month. Czech Republic. Partners Advertise with us. Brno News. Last updated: 3 months ago. A store in the Campus part of Bohunice. Get the news first! Sign up for free. Top stories in your mailbox every morning. About Brno Daily is a Czech media outlet for expats. Advertise with us Our partners. Trending articles. See all results. Brno Daily morning newsletter Sign up for free. Brno Daily Subscribe.
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