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Yes, my friends. We have arrived. This is the final installment of the Great Croatian Roadtrip. Thanks for sticking with me until the end. Here we go! After a whole day spent running around exploring the nether regions of Krka National Park , Raunaq and I headed to Split. There is plenty to do in and around Split, but the evening we arrived, we had only two priorities: shower off all that waterfall sweat, and find some non-Croatian food. I know. Throughout this entire journey, we had been completely enamored with Croatian food. And as hungry as we were, neither of us could really handle another pasta dish, and I was just about done with struggling to break open scampi shells as big as my face. What we wanted was Asian food. It fit all the important requirements: In a strip mall? Full of Chinese people? Gruff waitress and super-fast service? Check check check. Everything I look for in a Chinese restaurant. And it was legit. Sometimes, a girl just needs a platter of something stir-fried and MSG-laden. Along the way, we came across a peacock crossing the road. Leisurely strolling, his gleaming tail feathers dragging along, looking haughty as all hell. Turns out, there is a whole colony of wild peacocks living in this neighborhood of Split near Gripe. This was initially very exciting! It became decidedly less exciting when we figured out that the terrible cawing waking us up in the morning were peacock calls. Peacocks may be outwardly beautiful, but that beauty does not extend to their vocal cords. Give me a rooster any day. We were staying at an AirBnb just a five-minute walk from old town Split. Technology is amazing. However, sometimes nothing beats good old-fashioned sign language, especially when backing in and out of his teeny-tiny driveway. Every city in Europe has one. Split, though, takes old town to a whole new level. A labyrinth of shops and restaurants and bars are built right into the ancient fortress walls, piled together among the winding marble streets. We once found ourselves walking in circles, and came across the same bar three times before we decided it was the universe telling us to stop for an afternoon drink. My favorite place in the palace was the Peristil, even though it was also the most popular with tourists. We got approached by tour touts no less than 5 times in 10 minutes. Beyond the Peristil is the Vestibule, a cavernous domed room that opens up to the sky. Legend has it that Diocletian was so paranoid about being murdered in his sleep that he slept in different rooms every night, in the sleeping quarters past the Vestibule. Any potential assassin would have to pass through the space, and thanks to the great acoustics, the sound and echo would warn the emperor and guards. In Split, the cruise crowds are out in full force. There is really no avoiding the hordes. Maybe because we were used to it by then? We even managed to find a place serving local IPAs on tap. Our second day in Split was not in Split at all. From the town of Bol, Zlatni Rat extends out from a small forest of pine trees, gently tapering off into a sharp point meters into the Adriatic Sea. The beach is white and pebbly, the waters all the colors of blue and turquoise you can imagine. Bol is famous for its wind-surfing, so expect that accompanying wind, too. One side of the beach the left side, facing the ocean is significantly windier than the other. I may not always like to follow the crowds, but sometimes, they have the right idea. We joined the busier, warmer right side for the rest of the afternoon. After, we drove up to Vidova Gora, the highest point in the Adriatic. It feels like all of Croatia spills out before you: the beaches, the islands, the rocky cliffsides, all of it. In summer, I would recommend hiking up in to Vidova Gora in morning, and then cooling off at Zlatni Rat after. Day three we departed Split, bound for Plitvice National Park. But first, we decided to head even further south down the Dalmatian coast. Brela was out of the way actually, not even on the way at all. Plitvice was in the exact opposite direction , but neither Raunaq or I were ready to say goodbye to the coastline just yet. The coastal highway is windy, and every time we turned a corner the ocean looked even more beautiful. The rocky cliffs of the mountains were covered in sun-drenched vegetation, burnt orange brush and bright yellow wildflowers and deep purple grasses. Was Brela and Punta Rata beach completely out of the way? Was it worth the drive? There were lots of things to love about our time around Split - Diocletian's palace, the twists of the ancient streets, the crazy cats and crazier peacocks, the beautiful bay, the neighboring islands, the magnetic pull of the Adriatic Sea. But my favorite moment had nothing to do with any of that. Raunaq and I had just ventured back out into the old town one afternoon, books and beers in hand. We planned to sit by the waterfront and while away the rest of the day until dinner. And just as we cracked the cans, the sky darkened and opened up into a torrential downpour. An older Croatian man joined us, carrying a shopping bag and a can of Coke. And finally, after an incredible day chasing waterfalls in Plitvice and one very minor and very unnecessary fender bender not our fault! The final destination! And I loved everything about Zagreb. With the exception of one huge thing. And everyone smokes. Hell, there are ashtrays in the playgrounds in Switzerland. But in most other countries, you at least have to smoke outside. I felt like I had transported back to the s. All of the bars were so smoky that my eyes would get watery and burn. But I will admit, that while I did wish that those dark smoky bars were a lot less smoky, it did creating an alluring vibe: the dim lighting and the mirrored Art Deco walls and chipped black-and-white tiled floor and the marble tables and the boho-intellectual crowd chain-smoking cigarettes. Zagreb, you are so smokey, but also, pretty cool. Cool, and most unexpected. Zagreb is beautiful, but slightly rough around the edges. Just the way I like my cities. Eastern European-style architecture mixed with communist-era structures with graffiti and intricate street art thrown in for good measure. Smoking, drinking, strolling, chatting seems to be the way of everyday life. Zagreb is one of those places that is both stuck in time and completely modern. The main areas of the city are split into the Upper Town and Lower Town, connected with a short funicular. Upper Town is the oldest part of Zagreb, that houses many of the landmark buildings and churches from earlier centuries. The cathedral was breath-taking, not only because of the beautiful Gothic architecture but because of the live organ music. Dark, haunting tones flowed from all 6, brass pipes of the impressive Zagreb Organ, swelling throughout the entire basilica and filling the space with an unearthly, medieval feeling. We time-traveled straight back to the 13th century. There are heaps of museums throughout Zagreb, but this one is certainly unique. The Museum of Broken Relationships a quirky and heartfelt museum dedicated to the demise of a relationship, with mementos donated by people all over the world. What remains after a relationship ends, and what does it represent? What I loved most was that it was about all types of relationships that ended in all sorts of ways. Romantic relationships, relationships with family, relationships with yourself. Some were petty and hilarious, others heartbreaking or reflective, all cathartic in some form. Relationships spanning a few weeks, or 50 years. Each item was accompanied by the age, location and brief story of the item. This was the only museum I can think of where I lingered to read every single placard. The whole idea was just so relatable, and so human. How are you going to toast anything now? On night during dinner, a group led by a woman clad in a black cloak and pointed witches hat, strolled by. Coming from San Francisco, it takes more than a person dressed like one of the Sanderson sisters from Hocus Pocus to surprise us, so we just sort of laughed and carried on eating. And there was! It often took as little as socializing with other women unsupervised the horror! Other suspicious conditions included being poor, having a fallout with an acquaintance, displaying signs of stubborn behavior, being too young or too old, being successful, rejecting suitors, or simply, of course, being a woman. Once accused, the women were forced to pass different nonsensical and increasingly torturous tests: The weighing test - a witch must be lightweight to be able to fly, therefore, having a slender build led to a guilty verdict; The crying test - if you were unable to produce a display of emotion, such as crying, on command, it could mean you were a witch; The nose test - the torturer would hit a woman on the nose, and deduce if they were a witch based on the color of their blood. More than people were killed for their alleged black magic in Zagreb. So today, the old region of Zagreb pays tribute to the dark period of witch hunting, and moreover, the condemnation of women in European society. Oh, and I looked up that witch tour and it seems pretty insane. Supposedly during the minute tour, a real witch will provide each attendee with a recipe for a certain type of potion, use a magical stone to call forward spirits of old witches and tell fortunes and futures. Not my thing, but hey, you do you! Nothing seems to slip by faster than those last precious hours of vacation. Zagreb was no exception. We stumbled across a summer garden party in a small park next to our Airbnb with live music and cheap beers, visited a huge antiques market in the middle of Lower town, drank delicious coffee, ate delicious food, found an entire museum dedicated to Naive art, and bought a surprising amount of salt to take home. We will be garnishing all of our dishes with Croatian truffle salt for years to come! And then, it was time to go. We packed up our suitcases, dropped off the car, and said goodbye to this gem of a country. Maybe we could have made it to Dubrovnik after all, if we had really tried. Maybe I did need a day to hide from the rain and drink corner-store wine at home. But honestly - I think we got pretty close. Croatia: thank you for being so welcoming, so utterly delicious, so chock full of history, so chock full of cats, so mind-blowingly beautiful and so completely unforgettable. The Great Croatian road trip - complete. Personalized Hike Planning. Hiking in Switzerland. Exploring Switzerland. Travels Elsewhere. Other Stories. Welcome to Wander We Go. Jul 2. Zagreb And finally, after an incredible day chasing waterfalls in Plitvice and one very minor and very unnecessary fender bender not our fault! Museum of Broken Relationships There are heaps of museums throughout Zagreb, but this one is certainly unique. Show 2 comments.

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Brela buy coke