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We’re obsessed with boots here at Boot Butler (obviously!) and so today are going to take a look at a very important part of all footwear: the heel. We’re going to focus on cowboy boots since we know that lots of you have at least one pair. Or perhaps you’re in the market for a brand new pair of fantastic cowboy boots? In which case, knowing about the various types of heels and what they’re for is going to be an important part of your research.
Before we move forward, let’s take a look back, because the history of how heels came to be is intriguing and fascinating.
Fun fact that you’ve probably already heard, but it bears repeating: Heels were first worn in the east by men as an essential part of their horse riding gear. This was especially important for soldiers, as good heels allowed them to get a firm grip when they stood up in their stirrups. Which, in any fighting situation, would then allow them much more accuracy when shooting their bows.
Then, at the end of the 16th century, the very first diplomatic mission from Persia paid a visit to Europe. It called on Spanish, German and Russian royal courts. The Europeans and Russians quickly noticed and became intrigued with the Persians’ heeled footwear, which soon became the stylish thing to wear in aristocratic circles. Europeans and Russian aristocrats decided to go one step (ha!) further to give themselves even more of a stylish edge, and dramatically raised the heights of their heels.
Other European aristocrats took a look at what their neighbors were wearing, and also got into the high heel craze. France’s King Louis XIV especially embraced this new high heel style. He was a bit on the short side — about 5’4.” That wouldn’t be a huge deal, except that he was an extremely powerful monarch with an extremely large ego who wanted his physicality to appear as majestic as possible.
And so he physically raised himself up: His trademark became 4-inch heels with red heels and soles. That red dye was very expensive, but, in the immortal words of Mel Brooks, “It’s good to be the king!”
In the 1630s, the craze for high heels spread to ladies as well. Interestingly enough, it’s because of a fashion fad for women that dictated that they should adopt men’s styles. Ladies chopped off their hair added military-like elements into their outfits. And put on high heels.
Soon, everyone wanted red heels and soles. King Louis XIV, who we can safely say was not the greatest sharer in the world, passed a law that only aristocrats in his court could wear them. So you could tell at a glance who the king was happy with that particular day by seeing if their heels were dyed red. (This didn’t stop imitations, of course — the notion of cheap knockoffs of famous brands is not a modern concept.)
Through the 17th century, shoes and heels for men and women were very similar. But with the 18th century came notable distinctions between male and female footwear. Women’s skirts were floor-length, so their shoes were designed to taper at the tips so that these would just peek out from the skirt’s hem, thus giving the notion of a feminine, dainty foot. Men’s heels got more blocky, women’s more slender.
Boot Butler helps extend the life of your boots by storing them properly, preventing creasing and getting them off the floor.
And around the time of the Enlightenment — which focused on education versus birthright and privilege — men’s heels pretty much went away, and haven’t resurged since. The one exception is cowboy boots, which have always had heels for both men and women. Let’s start off with exploring cowboy heels, then. These have heel heights that can be divided into three categories:
Walking heels have little or not slant, meaning that they’re square (or mostly square). Generally, about an inch in height, they are comfy to wear while you’re walking around. Boots with these types of heels are also known as “ropers,” — as in, you can wear them when you’re on your feet roping cattle, working a rodeo, or going about your everyday business.
Riding heels are 2 inches in height, and have a noticeable slant to them. That means that they’re wider at the top — where they attach to the boot’s heel — and then narrow down at the part of the heel that touches the ground. The reason for this is practical: the nook of that slant is what’s going to help keep the boot in a stirrup. This type of heel is known as an underslung heel. And because there’s no relatively sharp, 90-degree angle at the back of the heel, it’s gentler on the horse since there’s less friction and thus discomfort.
Then there’s the last category of the heel, which is a blend of a walking and riding heel. And these are the most common types of heels that you’ll see on cowboy boots. The height will be about an inch and a half, and the heel is slightly underslung, meaning that it tapers a little.
The reason that the last category is the most common is that it is the most practical for everyday wear. The heel, since it’s not too tall or too underslung, is still comfortable enough to walk around in. That matters especially for men, who may not be used to walking around in heels like many women are. Plus, the heel’s height also allows pants and jeans to hit just above where the heel meets the boot’s leather. That means that the bottoms of your pants will become less frayed, as they won’t constantly be rubbing against that seam.
Another fun fact: The taller the heel on your cowboy boots, the more mass it has. And thus, the louder the sound it’ll make when you’re walking. Some cowboy boot wearers love that sound, while others can’t stand it — and so you’ll notice rubber soles especially on men’s dress cowboy boots, to dampen that sound. You can have rubber soles put on any cowboy boot heels, however, depending on your preference.
A note here on fashion cowboy boots, which may combine some of the elements of the above heel types. The heels will generally be taller, however: 3 to 4 inches, plus they’ll be much spikier, meaning that the taper will be much more dramatic than on an underslung heel.
Keeping your boots organized and wearing them longer
Boots can be a substantial investment, particularly if you collect different types or own many pairs. And like any good investment, they need the right kind of attention and care. Our Hanging Boot Rack was developed to help boot lovers everywhere extend the life of their boots, prevent creasing and get organized. So, invest in proper storage and enjoy your boots for years. Happy wearing!
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By Alvie Faulkenbery, April 16, 2021

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Alvie is the founder of Alvies (makes sense, right?), a man obsessed with boots and flip-flops. He spent six years designing and selling them out of an Airstream. That time was like his vision quest, where he learned everything he could about traditional bootmaking and leatherworking in order to build the best boots and flip-flops on the planet. In addition to being our Presidente and chief product designer, he’s also our resident boot expert and dropper of knowledge on the blog.

©2022 Alvies, LLC. All rights reserved.

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Similar to cowboy boot toe styles , cowboy boot heels can trip you up (both literally and figuratively). There’s not quite as much difference in opinion on what the various heel styles should be called, but some companies use different terms for the same heel. And while cowboy boot heels are supposed to have standard heights for each style, some bootmakers vary the heel heights. Why? Maybe they’re just ornery contrarians.
It can be confusing when you’re comparing boots, and we don’t dig on confusing potential boot buyers — especially first-timers who need an assist. So we’ve put together some of the most common heel styles under their most common names and sizes. And because each heel was originally designed for a specific purpose, we’ve also given you the details on how they came about. This doesn’t cover all the heel types — there are some really wacky tall styles and other styles that are niche and specific to a certain function. But this should be all you need to know to find the right style for you.
The cowboy heel is what we use on most Alvies boots. When looking at the boots our founder inherited from his grandfather — along with a ton of other styles — we felt it offered the best mix of style, comfort and functionality for the modern boot wearer. That means someone who wants a good-looking, comfortable boot they can walk around in all day.
In terms of size, the cowboy heel sits right in between the shorter walking heel and the taller riding heel. That gives it a nice balance of adding some height without getting too crazy. It’s also narrower than the walking heel but not as narrow as the riding heel. That, combined with just the right amount of tapering (aka “pitch” or “slant”) on the back gives a classic look that never feels outdated. It also means you can walk around without feeling like you were overserved.
No prizes for guessing the original function of the riding heel. It was developed to better fit in the stirrups of Western-style saddles. Bootmakers like Hyer and Justin developed them specifically for American cowboys, and usually put the heel on modified European riding boots or US Cavalry boots. The longer heel locks into a stirrup more securely when weight is applied, and the more pronounced pitch doesn’t rub against the horse’s flank like a straight heel does. Even today, most people who wear riding heels actually ride horses, as they’re not the best for walking around in due to the height and narrow base.
This one’s straight down the pipe, as well. As boots evolved into more of an everyday shoe instead of specialized footwear, comfort became more of a focus. The walking heel is perfect for longtime wear thanks to its shorter height, wider base and less pronounced pitch. It didn’t have quite as much of the classic style we wanted for Alvies boots, but it has become one of the most popular types of heels.
The roper heel was developed for cowboys who competed in roping competitions on the rodeo circuit in the 1920s. They needed a shorter, more stable heel because they’d jump off their horse and run to a calf or steer after roping it. The roper heel has a flat base and is most commonly straight, but some versions have a slight pitch. Because it’s comfortable for walking, the roper is a popular heel for modern boots. You’ll find it on some western boots, but a roper boot usually has a shorter, rounder shaft and a round toe, like our Manchaca deerskin roper .
As the name implies, the fashion heel’s primary function is lookin’ good. These heels are tall, usually 2” or higher, with a shorter base and steeper pitch than a riding heel. They’re the cowboy boot’s answer to the high heel, meant to add height and introduce the drama of never knowing when you’re going to end up on your ass while walking down the street.
We couldn’t find much about the origins of the Fowler heel, so I’m going to say it was invented by Chip Fowler in 1957. Prove me wrong. What I do know is that the Fowler is a short heel, just a tad taller than a roper, making it more functional for work boots or more comfortable for a boot that doesn’t do much more work than walking. It comes in both straight and pitched versions.
In a properly constructed boot, the toe style shouldn’t impact the fit, because the fit is determined by the toe box instead of the end of the toe. But heels are a different story. Each boot last (check out our Anatomy of a Boot post if I lost you) is designed for a specific heel. So there can be a pretty big difference in fit between a roper and cowboy heel, say, even in the same brand of boot.

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