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We might have passed you on the street. We were in Bitola 3 days ago and really enjoyed it. So sorry we didn't actually connect, Stan! But I'm so glad you had the opportunity to enjoy Bitola. It is such a fun town, and one so few travelers manage to get to. I really enjoyed your post, Karen. I felt I was with you and Rich eating Victoria's Zelnik. Fantastic video. It made me even think I might have the skills to prepare it. You and Victoria made it looks very easy to make, but I know I would end up with the dough on the floor or the garbage hahaha. I guess I have to go to Bitola to try it. So glad you liked the post, Pia! But the end result is worth it! Wonderful market with such delicious fruit and veg - it does the eye good. It seems difficult to see where Greek cuisine ends and Turkish begins when so many dishes seem familiar. Love the cellar of homemade wine - no doubt delicous and organic. Yes, the markets here are marvelous and the food is a dizzying mix of East and West, due to this area's position at the crossroads of so many cultures. Right now a local slow food movement is just getting underway, as people seek to preserve tradition while experimenting with world food. And yes, the cellar was full of delicious, organic homemade wine, which I enjoyed drinking at dinner every night. Love your posts and ever since you left Thessoloniki I keep expecting there to be dragons. Especially in the town with the really wierd library and now in the village. But you seem to find lovely people everywhere and wonderful food. I especially loved the Zelnik video and it looks really yummy. You have a real gift for finding the best things. Phyllis, I keep watching out for dragons, too! So far, aside from the occasional grumpy barista, we've been treated with kindness by everyone. The Zelnik was wonderful, and there's more fun to come. In my next post I'm featuring the Albanian version of that pie and considerably easier to make! PS: St Chris was de-sainted years ago! I miss St. Christopher, who was hugely popular when I was little and always seemed a comforting kind of saint to me. Yes, the Church saw fit to debunk him in , as part of the general reorganization of the calendar of the Roman rite as mandated by the motu proprio, Mysterii Paschalis. And rightly so, as it seems likely that he never actually existed outside of myth and legend. He's still shown in church art around the world; in England there are more images of him than any other saint except Mary. In the Eastern Orthodox Church he's often shown with the head of a dog; we just saw one of these old icons in Albania. No matter what Church officials decree, I still enjoy the image of a character devoted to protecting others from peril. Probably my favorite blog on this trip so far. It has a little bit of everything; food, city and country, the ride etc. I feel like Goldilocks. It is just perfect. Kitty, I'm so glad you liked the post. Right now our days are so full of offbeat stuff, the greatest difficulty is deciding what to leave out. Thanks for your kind words; I'm delighted this was a Goldilocks moment for you! Enjoy Living Abroad. My Picks: Best of SF. The Amigos project. The railway station in Bitola, North Macdonia. Wikipedia called Bitola the transportation hub of the region. What gives? I eventually located it at the far end of the station, and by the time I returned, Rich was standing beside our bags with a stranger and a bemused expression. He seems like a nice guy. I climbed in after them, saying a quick prayer to St. Christopher, patron saint of travelers who are about to do foolish things. You'll notice this map identifies Bitola as being in Macedonia, while the name of the country is shown as North Macedonia. In January a long-standing dispute with Greece was resolved by changing the name of the country to North Macedonia. My map program hasn't had time to catch up completely. Hope that clears up any confusion. The guest house was family run, served homegrown produce and homemade beer and wine, and let you pay whatever you thought was right for lodging and meals. The driver — what are the odds? Our host Petar hurried out to greet us and grabbed our bags. We followed him into a stone building and up a set of wooden stairs festooned with a colorful little runner that had come loose from its moorings and was now a tumble of rucked-up fabric and scattered iron rods. I picked my way carefully along the bare wooden edges, wondering how many guests per week broke ankles here. Our small room was entirely filled with three massive wooden beds. A modern shower stall, unable to squeeze into the minuscule bathroom, had inserted itself into the corner beside the largest bed, which was festively attired in purple seersucker sheets and a yellow canopy. We were just in time to join our fellow guests for dinner on a porch overlooking the garden. Meals, we soon learned, were one of the true perks of the place. Not only was the food delicious, but the conversations with our well-traveled fellow guests — British, Dutch, German, and American — were interesting and convivial. After breakfast, the others took themselves off on serious mountain hikes while Rich and I ambled about the village, admiring the old stone houses and making friends with the local dogs. After a couple of days in the village, I was ready to embrace the more cosmopolitan pleasures of downtown Bitola. Settled during the Bronze Age, home to the ancient Greco-Roman metropolis Heraclea Lyncestis , serving as an international diplomatic hub under Ottoman rule to , occupied in WWII by the Germans and Bulgarians … in short, Bitola has been at the crossroads of history ever since they invented history. While much of this was exceedingly uncomfortable at the time, today Bitola enjoys a rich legacy of architecture, archeological sites, and of course, cuisine. Which is why I was so dismayed to discover, on a first pass through town, that nearly every eatery's sign included the word 'pizza. As you can imagine, we accepted with delight. Monday morning, I joined Victoria in her kitchen as she began the pie dough. Unsatisfied with the texture, she repeatedly whacked the dough against the countertop to force out excess air. Note to self: this is the recipe I want to make when I'm having a very bad day. While the dough rested up after its ordeal, Rich and I accompanied Mladen on an expedition to fetch the spinach. Rich and I felt we owed it to our readers to do a taste test and returned at the earliest opportunity. He explained that while a few things, such as bananas, were imported, most were locally grown and only sold in season. Lettuce was reaching the end of its time and would soon become tasteless. Cherries were just coming into their own, a bit expensive now, but delicious. Returning with the blitva, I rejoined Victoria in her kitchen as she completed the zelnik. The filling of egg, cheese, and fresh greens was simple. Making the special rippled crust was more of a challenge and good fun to watch. The conversation flowed, turli tava emerged from the oven, and a bottle of wine went around. Eventually Victoria brought out her signature cake made with cherries from the tree shading the path to the door. At last Rich and I rose, groaning, from the table, said our farewells and stumbled upstairs to our apartment for a much-needed siesta. But some days, like this one, come very, very close. We've been on the road 68 days and are currently in Bitola, North Macedonia. We plan to cross over into Albania tomorrow morning. This is where we expect things to get seriously offbeat. If you haven't already subscribed, sign up here so you don't miss a single loony adventure or the next mouthwatering recipe. Stan Braun. Karen McCann. Pia link. Carolyn Saunders. This blog is a promotion-free zone. As my regular readers know, I never get free or discounted goods or services for mentioning anything on this blog or anywhere else. I'm an American travel writer living in California and Seville, Spain. I travel the world seeking eccentric people, quirky places, and outrageously delicious food so I can have the fun of writing about them here. Don't miss out! Planning a trip? Use the search box below to find out about other places I've written about. Thanks for joining us on the journey. Reply Leave a Reply. Karen McCann Planning a trip?
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