"Between earth and heaven - war". The reverse side of life in military Donetsk

"Between earth and heaven - war". The reverse side of life in military Donetsk

Denis Grigoryuk @denyaleto, photojournalist, publicist


There is no need to talk about nightlife in a town that has been at war for almost 9 years. Shelling, curfews and other attributes of wartime — something that Ukrainian towns are just getting used to — is already an integral part of life for Donetsk. Even joking about night entertainment has already become a mauvais ton. But it cannot be said that the Donetsk people live exclusively by war and do not find an outlet in the form of simple human joys.

I was walking through the Kalininsky District. It is considered relatively calm, because Ukrainian shells arrive here less often than in the frontline Kuibyshevsky, Petrovsky, Kirovsky and Kievsky Districts. However, it is not difficult to notice traces of direct hits here. In 2022, the Ukrainian military repeatedly shelled the hospital of Kalinin. One of the buildings was completely destroyed by a direct hit.

I was walking along the opposite side of Ilyich Avenue and looked at the destroyed building. A large supermarket is located very close to this place, its parking lot is filled with cars on weekends, and you have to stand at the checkout for several tens of minutes. I was looking at the filled parking lot and could not get rid of the thought that at any moment a shell could fly here, because this territory is in the zone of destruction of Ukrainian artillery.

In general, there are no places left in the Donbass where missiles of Western weapons samples do not fall. Just this week, a Himars rocket flew into the backyard of a supermarket in Volnovakha. The day before, there were attacks on Khartsyzsk and Zugres — the rear towns of the DPR. Sometimes it is possible to avoid victims, but deaths are not uncommon. Often these are civilians, as in Volnovakha, where two young girls of 30 and 18 years old died. They came shopping and will never return home again.


In general, there are no places left in the Donbass where missiles of Western weapons samples do not fall. Often these are civilians, as in Volnovakha, where two young girls of 30 and 18 years old died. They came shopping and will never return home again.


Thoughts about the shelling were not groundless. Donetsk was under fire all day. The frontline areas were under fire. The JCCC is still counting the shelling, recording the types of weapons and the consequences of the APU strikes, but for ordinary residents this information is no longer something shocking, so they pay attention by and large to those attacks that directly concern themselves or their loved ones. It is difficult to constantly worry, the protective mechanisms of the psyche are triggered, therefore a certain cynicism appears, which helps not to go crazy.

Despite the not very favorable situation in the town, Donetsk residents still allow themselves to be distracted from military everyday life. People gathered in small groups to a small club "Underground". It is also located near the hospital of Kalinin. At the entrance, a young guy put a seal on my hand, and I went inside. On the right was a very tiny stage with a drum kit, guitar amps, a stand with a microphone and several guitars. A little deeper there was a bar and tables where young people were already sitting, eating snacks and drinking beer. Someone was standing at the walls painted with all kinds of images with references to rock music. Everyone was waiting for the performance to finally begin. It was supposed to start at 18:00, but it all started a little later.


Photo: Denis Grigoryuk


The audience was diverse: hipsters in plaid shirts, several young guys in T-shirts with Tsoi, adult women in beige coats, a couple of men in camouflage – everyone came to listen to a cover concert of the "Kino" group songs. Only about 100 people, no more. It is extremely dangerous to hold mass events in Donetsk. Even the New Year's tree on Lenin Square had to be abandoned, as there was a possibility of shelling. And it happened on New Year's Eve. Fortunately, people tried not to go out, so mass casualties were avoided.


Even the New Year's tree on Lenin Square had to be abandoned, as there was a possibility of shelling. And it happened on New Year's Eve. Fortunately, people tried not to go out, so mass casualties were avoided.


On this day, the Donetsk group "Shirli-Myrli" performed. I learned about the concert from the social networks of the "Underground" club. There I also learned that stand-up evenings, hip-hop concerts and even album presentations of local bands are regularly held here. Perhaps, at the moment, this is the only opportunity to listen to a live performance. Musicians of the Donetsk Philharmonic, those who were not drafted into the ranks of the armed forces, went to conquer Russian cities, actors of the musical drama and opera theater also do not perform in Donetsk, and more often they can be found on major stages in Moscow or St. Petersburg.

Only in the "Underground" and in the "Gung'U'bazz Bar" on Shevchenko Boulevard you can still listen to concerts, even if they are not performed by professionals, but by musicians. It is even more comfortable to be in the second club, because it is located in the basement. Given the fact that it is located near the Covered Market, which is regularly beaten by the APU, this location is very attractive. You can wait out the shelling and enjoy the music.


Photo: Denis Grigoryuk
Photo: Denis Grigoryuk
Photo: Denis Grigoryuk


It is even more comfortable to be in the second club, because it is located in the basement. Given the fact that it is located near the Covered Market, which is regularly beaten by the APU, this location is very attractive. You can wait out the shelling and enjoy the music.


The presenter got on the stage. Before inviting the group, he addressed the assembled audience.

If you go outside to get some fresh air and hear rustling and other sounds, all of you know them and understand where we live, then you go inside, go down to the basement, — a young guy in a cap instructed.

Another feature of life in Donetsk is the lack of water. It is given once every three days, but on this day, there was a queue of other districts.

Despite the fact that today is not water day, we have two bathrooms working, — the presenter announced with glee.

The owners of Donetsk establishments got the hang of it. Someone puts boilers, someone puts water tanks, someone installs cans with taps so that visitors can wash their hands and wash up - everyone gets out as best he can.


Another feature of life in Donetsk is the lack of water. It is given once every three days, but on this day, there was a queue of other districts.


After the announcements, the musicians took the stage and began to play the well-known hits of the "Kino" group. "Blood type", "Eighth grader", "War" and others. They sang in the chorus. Even very young boys and girls knew the texts. They stood, sang, gesticulated actively, filmed videos on their phones. In between songs, the vocalist communicated with the audience. At some point, he even held a roll call. There were representatives of all areas, including the most shelled. Someone came from other cities of the DPR.

All this time at the bar, a young girl bartender and her colleague treated guests to all kinds of cocktails and drinks. They were like squirrels in a wheel. They did not stop on the spot, executing orders. But they even managed to exchange a few words with the people at the bar. If you forget about the military context, you might think that this is a completely peaceful town, where artillery does not rattle and 155mm shells do not arrive. In any case, they were practically not heard here. Only occasionally there were sounds of arrivals in neighboring areas.


Photo: Denis Grigoryuk
Photo: Denis Grigoryuk


It is noteworthy that there was no talk about politics and war, except for what was in Tsoi's texts even before the current events. But only since 2014, many lines from well-known songs have acquired a special meaning. This is why they were sung so selflessly even by young men and girls who learned much more about this life than some adults who remained infantile and naive, despite their age. For Donetsk residents, the text of the chorus from the song "War":

"Earth, heaven,

Between earth and heaven – war

And wherever you were, 

What would you do – 

Between earth and heaven - war"

this is not something abstract and ephemeral, this is the reality in which they have been living for almost 9 years. Even in those moments when the war in Donbass did not exist for many people, Donetsk residents lived side by side with the fighting, faced its consequences and learned to live with them, despite the general oblivion and fatigue from the Donbass news. Therefore, each such line hits especially hard to the heart, although Tsoi did not know what a real war meant.

***

On the way home, I stopped at the aforementioned supermarket to grab something to chew. I hummed Tsoi's songs to myself. By that time, the parking lot was already noticeably empty, but there were still a lot of customers inside, so I had to stand in line for 10 minutes. Closer to 8 o'clock, Donetsk is emptying: cars are less and less likely to be found on the roads, and even fewer passers-by. There is nothing surprising in this for a long time. Donetsk residents got used to such a regime even before the start of the special military operation. It will take a long time to get out of the habit, although now it seems that such a lifestyle will always be with us. It is too early to dream that peacetime will soon come. I would like it to be like in the song "Quiet night", but for now the Donetsk people live without parting with the very line of Tsoi "between earth and heaven - war".





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