Bergen, Norway
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Iceclimbing training program in Hemsedal
You will be surprised, but Norway, relatively small country in terms of its territory, is even three times longer in terms of the length of its sea coast than even neighboring endless Russia - 101,000 km versus 34,000! So it is obvious that the entire history of Norway, the entire baggage of the cultural traditions of this country is inextricably linked with the sea.
The sea always carried and fed the Norwegians, opening up new paths and opportunities for them. If we assume that the Vikings were the ancient ancestors of the Norwegians (which is possible, but not proven historically), it turns out that this country in the past had an influence on the entire course of world history.
For us, mountaineers and rock/ice climbers, Norway also opens up a lot of completely unique horizons - especially the vertical ones. However, the opportunity to climb a colossal frozen waterfall or scramble on the fingertips up the foggy verticals of the Troll Wall does not at all exclude the possibility (and even the necessity) of getting acquainted with the history and culture of this country.
In general, it is no matter where our climbing training is conducted, no matter what level and intensity the routes are chosen. There is always an opportunity to look at the world around us not only through the prism of extreme sports and vertical meters.
You can agree, that climbing snow summits in Peru, it would be strange not to visit the famous Machu Picchu! Or not to spend a day touring the pyramids of Giza after training on the rocks in Egypt. Or, having torn fingers on the yellow rocks of Madagascar, not take a walk along the unique Baobab Alley - the only one in the world?!
Or, in this case with Norway, after having crushed into small crumbs a couple of the most beautiful ice columns, why not to drive to the coast and let inside yourself the spirit and atmosphere of this amazing country?! For example, in the form of a piece of whale meat served on a wide white plate in a restaurant on the famous Bergen waterfront - Bryggen (by the way, UNESCO World Heritage Site).
Norway is one of three countries in the world (the others are Japan and Iceland) that have not joined the moratorium on whaling and whale meat production. Leaving aside the ethical issues of ecology and protection of the rights of the animals, I can say that whaling is a historical traditional form of existence of many coastal Norwegian settlements.
Of course, when visiting Norway, it is worth getting acquainted with this part of the country’s national culture. There is no excitement around whale meat in Norway; the product appears in small quantities on the shelves of fish markets. Due to the strict quotas for whaling, the price of whale meat in Norway does not make it an extremely affordable product. However, in order to try this delicacy, you can find a place and an opportunity.
As a rule, after our first training climbing set on the Norwegian ice, in our iceclimbing team (regardless of its national composition), a strange urgent need for a piece of whale meat flares up.
Perhaps not the easiest, but certainly the most exciting and varied way to satisfy this desire is to drive to the west coast of Norway and visit the city of Bergen.
Bergen is located on the west coast of Norway, almost 400 km from Hemsedal, where we climb the frozen waterfalls. It is not so close, but the set of the impressions from this trip has long justified its inclusion in the schedule of our iceclimbing training program in Hemsedal.
Bergen is the second largest city in Norway with a population of about 280,000 people. However, Bergen is not as simple as it is small. This cozy coastal town with extremely capricious weather has deep historical roots and is more than 1000 years old.
Throughout all its history, Bergen was an important trading center for all of Scandinavia, connecting trade routes along the North Sea. Until the 13th century, Bergen was the capital of Norway and a royal residence. In the chronicles of those times, Bergen was referred as “a green meadow among high rocks” - a very cozy and warm definition for a harsh northern location.
Today, Bergen has fully retained its relevance as a sea capital and connects many routes along the northern and western coasts of Norway. Bergen is an international marine port and center for maritime culture, shipping, trade, underwater exploration and the oil industry. Norway's largest business centers and offices of large international companies are located in Bergen.
Bergen has its own university, with almost 18,000 students. Needless to say, Bergen has several excellent rockclimbing walls and a lot of equipped climbing routes in the immediate vicinity.
I have strange impressions about Bergen. I like this city. I like its sea breeze. Heavy clouds creeping in from the sea. Penetrating light drizzle. People hiding behind umbrellas turned inside out by rushes of wind. And in contrast, the warm comfort of coastal restaurants and delicious fresh fish - traditionally, numerous fishing boats unload their catch on the Bergen embankment.
Sometimes - if you're lucky - there's a bright, blinding sun and an incredible play of colors from Bryggen's toy facades, neighboring rocky peaks and a sparkling blue sea perspective. In every detail of this image there is something elusive and special, very individual. I don't know how to define this feeling more precisely. It’s as the eyes are smiling on the gloomy and stern face of an old marineer.
P.S. Returning to whale meat: in its appearance the product is similar to beef. It is fibrous, dark red, lean, medium-density meat without bones or tendons. The taste is very specific. Like salty beef with a pronounced fishy smell. Not everyone likes it.
However, as the famous biblical blogger and prophet Jonah has said - it is better if a whale is inside you, than if you are inside a whale. He knows better, of course.
Author of the text and photographs - Alex Trubachev
Your professional mountaineering, rockclimbing and iceclimbing guide in Norway
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