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Berat buy snow

Our next stop in Albania was the small and charming town of Berat. Berat is known as the town of a thousand windows because of the picturesque white Ottoman houses that line the mountain leading up to the Castle of Berat. Here is what we did so you have some reference. We left our apartment in Tirana, got on a public bus to take us to one of the bus yards mentioned above. About halfway through our public bus ride it started heading the wrong direction so we had to jump off and walk about 40 minutes with our massive bags to the bus yard. Once we arrived, it was pure chaos. About dudes descended upon us because they can see we are tourists and are exhausted. Switch back to Berat! I think we need to do these more often because the people were super nice and waking up to a nice breakfast in the morning is hard to beat. Not only did they provide food, but our host brewed his own moonshine which he was far too generous with. The highlight of Berat is by far the castle at the top of the hill overlooking the city. Quick story and advice on the castle. We walked all the way to the top which takes a little more effort than you might think when looking up from the bottom. We assumed that you could freely walk around inside the walls and the actual castle charged an admission, but that was the wrong assumption kind of. All the sweat and anger paid off because the views and weather was amazing at the top. Overall though, we enjoyed our few days in Berat. The views the town offers made the hassle of getting there worth it for sure. Onto our last country in Europe! To see ALL of our photos from Albania click here! How Much We Saved. Planning The Route. Packing for a Year. Travel Blog. How Much We Are Spending. Toilet Reviews. Random Thoughts and Observations. Follow Us. January 5, City Review , Hiking , Lodging. Newer Post End of for the Dos Hobos. Older Post Tirana for Christmas. Email Address. Sign Up.

Berat, Albania: City that Opens Windows to the Sky and Doors to the Stranger

Berat buy snow

The Osum River runs through the town with buildings hugging the slopes. A green ridged range covers its north side. South of the valley are snow-capped peaks. It is gorgeous. If you are coming from Tirana, as we were, it is a vacation from air pollution, and a chance to commune with nature. Getting off the Van from the Capital City, there were other differences I appreciated. These have to do with infrastructure, not geography. A real bus station—not just a chaotic parking lot, like in Tirana. Wide, solid sidewalks made the 1. In the old town there were plenty of places to walk separated from cars. On our walk, we passed a food coop, In the new and old sections of town, monuments celebrating anti-fascists still had red stars on them. Berat is one of those towns with an equal number of mosques and churches and the mountains ring with occasional calls to prayer and church bells. I saw this graffiti: , Berat. Fuck Police. Like big cities, Berat was a place of chaos and revolt in after a rush to privatize and invest led to a ponzi crash. Sixty percent of the population lost everything they owned. Like the rest of Albania, there are no places other than occasional graffiti, where an outsider gets a hint of the meaning of this recent history. We hiked mountains, breathed fresh air, and ate sumptuous restaurant meals. We stayed two nights, giving us a full day to explore. On our full day, we hiked the mountain twice. The first time we hiked up to the chapel which, from the bottom looks like it is perched precariously on the ridge. Inside was a man who invited us in to look at the ancient frescos. After the last name, he hooked his thumbs together and said. On our way up to the chapel we were on a tiny pedestrian mountain path big enough for one person, strewn with early spring mountain blossoms. A small black dog led us part of the way. Our second climb to the castle was a happy mistake. We were trying to go to the ethnographic museum halfway up on the road. A that juncture, road signs beckoned us to keep climbing to the castle at the top. There were a few pedestrian staircases and passageways, but mostly we had to share the narrow mountain road with the cars and vans. At the top, in addition to people, most of whom rode up to see the wonders, there were also dogs sleeping in the road, a herd of sheep, a donkey carrying a load, and a horse awaiting a paid rider. There was another chapel with even more ancient frescos. We did not know about this ancient city on top of a mountain in Albania. For me, the real draw was the view of the river valley with the village below and neighboring peaks on either side. On the way down we stopped for tea at a place with seats that perch you on the edge of the world. We treated ourselves in Berat. The second night we were in a cellar by ourselves with a prix fix no-choice menu. We stuffed ourselves with all kinds of things our diets usually preclude: meats, cheeses, breaded vegetables, everything delicious and enough to loosen belts. The next morning, before we left, we visited the Jewish Museum. While Albania prides itself rightly in being the country that saved the most Jews—citizens and refugees— during the Nazi era, Berat prides itself in being the city in Albania that saved the most people. Berat Muslims and Christians, Communist and non-Communist partisans, worked as a community, to provide sanctuary for 60 Jewish families. A Mosque erected a Star of David and provided space for Jews to worship. Now a woman—not Jewish herself but married to a Jew who recently passed away—keeps the memory of this virtuous past alive in a one-room museum. I knew the story before we went. We almost skipped the museum after seeing what we could learn online. We were concerned about time. I am so glad we went. The material online did not stir me. Being in the museum and talking to the caretaker, unleashed something. I swallowed sobs but was unable to control the flow of tears. I was thinking about our time. Who is that kind of hero today? Refusniks in Israel, who choose five-year jail sentences rather than participate in a genocide of Palestinians are one example. May there be a museum, someday in Jerusalem, documenting their heroism. One might also call it radical hospitality. We had a sweet, relaxed, emotionally fulfilling, and mentally stimulating time in Berat. From the outside, we admired its 1, windows, and glimpsed eras ancient and recent. We left dazzled and full of questions about the view from the inside. The ride home, especially the transition from the regional bus to the city bus, was exhausting. Strangely, it felt so good to be home, to our fifth-floor apartment in Tirana. Visit the book page to read more.

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Berat, Albania: City that Opens Windows to the Sky and Doors to the Stranger

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