Bdsm Rigging
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Bdsm Rigging
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This article includes a list of references , related reading or external links , but its sources remain unclear because it lacks inline citations . Please help to improve this article by introducing more precise citations. ( March 2008 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this template message )
Arisue Go, Kinbaku Theory and Practices, Sanwa Publishing, 2008
Arisue Go, Kinbaku Mind and Techniques 1, Jugoya, 2009
Arisue Go, Kinbaku Mind and Techniques 2 (Floor Works 1), Jugoya, 2009
Chanta Rose, Bondage For Sex , BDSM Press, 2006. ISBN 0-9777238-0-1 .
Douglas Kent, Complete Shibari Volume 1: Land , Mental Gears Publishing, 2010. ISBN 978-0-9736688-1-0 .
Douglas Kent, Complete Shibari Volume 2: Sky , Mental Gears Publishing, 2010. ISBN 978-0-9736688-2-7 .
Esinem, Japanese Rope Bondage DVD shibari tutorials, http://www.shibari.co/
Jay Wiseman, Jay Wiseman's Erotic Bondage Handbook , Greenery Press, 2000. ISBN 1-890159-13-1 .
Lee "Bridgett" Harrington, Circle23, Shibari You Can Use , Mystic Productions, 2006. ISBN 0-9778727-0-X .
Midori, Craig Morey, The Seductive Art of Japanese Bondage , Greenery Press , 2001. ISBN 1-890159-38-7 .
Two Knotty Boys, Larry Utley, Two Knotty Boys Showing You the Ropes , Green Candy Press, 2006. ISBN 1-931160-49-X .
A bondage rigger is a person of any gender who practices the art of tying bondage , usually with rope.
Bondage riggers may participate in bondage for many reasons. These may include: as a form of BDSM or D/s play for personal enjoyment; as an art form, such as with Shibari or kinbaku ; or as an enterprise for profit, by selling books, videos, or photographs.
Bondage riggers work with one or more rope bottoms or bondage models , or may tie themselves in a practice called self-rigging or self-suspension . Some rope bottoms and bondage models are bondage riggers themselves.
Responsible bondage riggers always follow the principles of risk-aware consensual kink (RACK) when rigging. [ citation needed ]
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A rigger is someone who enjoys tying other people up in rope. A rope is a popular tool in the BDSM community. A rigger is generally a Dominant , and their submissive , the person who is tied up, is known as a rope bunny , rope bottom, or rope slut.
Riggers are also sometimes known as rope artists. The term "rigger" comes from sailing when it was applied to the person who was responsible for the ropes that controlled the sails. Rigger can be used to refer to anyone who gets pleasure from tying people up. It is neither gender nor sexual orientation specific.
Rope bondage is a specialized kink that takes a considerable amount of time to learn and perfect. Some riggers prefer simple rope bondage to tie a rope bunny up in bed or while standing.
Riggers can also perfect complex patterns and knots, such as in shibari , that move a rope slut’s body into unnatural positions that may or may not be entirely comfortable for that person.
Some riggers practice suspension, where they bind their submissive and then raise them into the air and leave them bound and hanging by the rope.
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Becoming a rigger is not something one does on a whim. Rope bondage is a complex art that can take years to master. Even if you have an overwhelming desire to tie your partner up, you must learn about different types of rope, body mechanics, Dominant/submissive relationships, and the potential risks associated with rope bondage. As the rigger, you have a specific amount of control over your rope bondage scenes, so it is your responsibility to communicate, listen, and respond, sometimes very quickly.
In many types of rope bondage, the rigger moves and binds the submissive’s limbs in specific positions. Well done rope bondage will ensure that it is as comfortable as possible. However, there is the potential for damage if that position is maintained for too long. Riggers need to be aware of how joints and muscles will react to their bondage desires.
While everyone involved in a rope bondage scene is responsible for safety, because the rigger is literally in control of the ropes, they need to be aware of risky types of knots and techniques. The bondage that restricts the submissive’s airflow or circulation should be avoided, and the submissive should not be left alone. A rigger must keep sharp scissors or knife close by to use if the submissive’s safety is compromised. Remember, you can always get more rope.
Read Ginger Savage’s and other testimonials: Here » .
Below you will find a variety of photos where every knot, every turn of the rope, every gag, and every restraint was orchestrated and tied personally by the hand of Master Arcane. With a lifetime of experience tying knots (having started when he was quite young, and yes he was a boy-scout), Master Arcane’s talents in the world of bondage have been sought out by Photographers, Videographers, and Filmmakers alike. Master Arcane likes to combine bondage styles both common and exotic to produce a very strongly secured look and a variety of different aesthetics. His theory is that all bondage, even that which is merely decorative, should also be functional — no matter what mood is being created, it should always genuinely RESTRAIN in some fashion.
Fees are negotiable based on the Production values. To contact Master Arcane in regards to Bondage Rigging for your production, use the Contact Form here or by clicking on the button at the bottom of this page.
Each thumbnail below leads to a separate set of larger photos of the given model in a variety of rigging variations which you can scroll through vertically.
(All models for the photos below are 18 years or older; proof on file with the appropriate Photographer or Studio)
International Fetish Model
& Bondage Film Star
Jewel Marceau
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The Crow Academy style is one of Romantic Domination & Submission, BDSM, and Fetish Performance Art. The lessons of The Crow Academy are based on Tradition handed down by word-of-mouth and obscure texts, then blended & refined through Master Arcane's personal emphasis on extreme utilitarianism. We do not claim the foundations of these techniques as solitary to The Crow Academy, but rather that through decades of Real World trial & error these techniques have been re-forged into a Modern, Unique System that WORKS. Master Arcane explored into the depths of BDSM & D/s, separating the wheat from the chaff so that students of The Crow Academy can benefit from the road map created as a result. It would however, be against the beliefs of The Crow Academy to claim that this style is "the absolute best" or "ultimately superior to all others" as we very much appreciate & applaud other styles of BDSM & D/s that are equally evolved.
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My boyfriend and I got into BDSM by accident a few years back. We were fooling around in bed when he tied me up with a t-shirt that I’ve previously taken off. It was spontaneous and a bit awkward at first, but since I trusted him, I decided to go with the flow.
As soon as he put my tied up hands above my head, I knew that he had opened a whole new world of possibilities.
Being inexperienced as we were, that was the only thing we did that day, but we were eager to know more. Since it was a couple of years back, we couldn’t find any good beginner guides to BDSM and we had to learn by practicing on each other.
That is why I’ve come up with this beginner-friendly guide that will tell you all you need to know for your first BDSM experience. Whether you are a beginner or a BDSM veteran, I think you will find something for yourself in this complete guide for starting your own BDSM adventures.-
Using rope during sex is a form of dominance. If you are the dominant one in a relationship, you will enjoy tying up your partner and doing with them as you please. If you are, by chance, on the other side of the spectrum, the feeling of restraint and loss of control will take you to new heights in pleasure.
I say spectrum because there are people who enjoy it both ways or don’t enjoy it at all. BDSM as we know it today, derived from the Japanese bondage art form of shibari. The western approach is more about restraining, but the Japanese focus more on the artistic side of the process.
⦁ The price – let’s face it, this has crossed every mind that wanted to get into bondage. Is it expensive? Well, it is and it isn’t. If you go to a verified sex shop you could end up spending much more than you need to. Usually, a good hardware store has the things you need for a starting kit.
⦁ The diameter – the diameter of the rope is very important. You do not want a small diameter rope, as it can lead to injuries such as skin burns, circulation problems, bruises or even scars. By small diameter, I mean anything below 5mm.
⦁ The braiding – braiding affects how tight or loose your knots get, and how difficult it will be to get them untied. It is not imperative since you can always cut the rope, but that can lead to more expenses – the remains might not be long enough for further use.
⦁ The tooth – the tooth of a rope refers to its friction, and therefore affects how well your knots will hold.
⦁ Cutting – don’t be afraid to cut your rope into smaller pieces. Usually, you will find long sets of ropes so you will have to cut them up to fill your needs.
⦁ Maintenance – every tool needs to be maintained and ropes are no exception. Try to wash it when necessary and keep it in a bag or case so it won’t get damaged. Trim loose fibers and break the rope down in the water before using it if it gets too stiff.
⦁ Fixing loose ends – try to use up all the rope when tying and if u can’t, just tuck it under another line of rope. This will prevent loose ends and make it more appealing to the eyes.
⦁ Try to relax – there is no right or wrong when doing BDSM. Don’t be afraid to experiment with your partner and find out what works best for you. Just keep an eye out for safety measures, which I will discuss later in this thread.
There are many types of bondage ropes, but mostly they are separated into two categories – Natural and Synthetic. Both sorts have their advantages and drawbacks and it all comes down to your personal preference.
HEMP – hemp is commonly used for Shibari and it is very traditional. It has a natural look, fantastic tooth, a variety of diameter ranges and lots of colors. It isn’t stretchy as some other types. Drawbacks are that washing it affects the durability, it will shed fibers and could cause allergic reactions. Hemp also needs a lot of work to break in, as it can be quite stiff before first use and is expensive both raw and treated.
JUTE – jute, like hemp, is also traditional and usually used for Shibari. It is more expensive though, washing or boiling it degrades fibers, and needs more time to break in. Jute is a bit slower to tie with because of the tooth and needs care and inspection. The upside of jute is that quality improves with every use, it has a natural smell, can be dyed in any color, and is easy to unknot.
COTTON – Cotton is a great material for ropes. It is strong but soft on the skin, has acceptable tooth and slight elasticity, which can have benefits. Cotton ropes are lightweight, leave no allergic reactions and almost no rope burns. It can be dyed in different colors. The downsides of cotton ropes are that they are easy to get dirty, can stretch over time and need working in after washing. Also, knots get very tight, so I would not recommend it to beginners.
SILK – Silk is similar to cotton in some ways, but better. It’s flexible and soft with moderate friction. Has a low stretch, okay durability and good tooth despite being soft. But, as you may have guessed, it is quite expensive.
LINEN/FLAX – linen rope is expensive and harder to clean, but that are pretty much the only cons. On the other side, it has a good tooth (which makes it easier to tie), good strength, flexibility, and moderate durability. It doesn’t need to be worked in before use, has no allergy problems, but be careful as it still can leave some marks.
BAMBOO – like silk, it is in the luxury range of ropes, so it can cost a bit more money, but it is definitely worth it. Flexible and soft with low stretch and moderate friction, the bamboo rope is one of the finest you can use. It has okay durability, less grip than silk and anti-bacterial properties.
MANILA, SISAL, COIR – last of the natural kind, and in my opinion the least. They are quite uncomfortable, less stable, and don’t have enough strength for suspension. Not easy to clean, with limited diameters. Pros are that it is cheaper than bamboo and silk ones, leaves better “rope marks” and has a harsh tooth which can be good or bad depending on your preferences.
NYLON, PARACORD, POLYESTER – mostly referred to as nylon rope, it
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