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A goggle-eyed owl hovered under an arch leading to the boneyard. I tip-toed past the creature and into the cold-earth cave. It was cast adrift by human indifference until , when a road was pushed through rugged mountains linking the locals to the mainland. Centuries of isolation enveloped this Atlantic-facing huddle of homes with a magical aura and its locals with a knack for peddling thrilling legends and tales. So on a warm spring morning, I swapped a day on a soft-sandy beach for sleuthing about the high-rise caves of Baracoa in search of skullduggery and ancient lore. A five-year-old boy and his father rowed me across to a tiny fishing village, Boca de Boma, a bowl-shaped punch of a river mouth on the fretted coastline of prickly limestone and palms. Our boat docked amid floating coconut husk and sturdy mangrove, and the sight of glistening octopus on sale to incomers by the fisherfolk. Email address:. Up and away from the shore I wibble-wobbled along a ridge riddled with limestone rocks stopping to take in views of the indigo sea lashed against a wild, palm-strewn coast. The owl watched us as we walked its way. Its wide-eyed stare had been nosying the incoming traffic for several centuries. But, at just a couple of carved centimeters high on a rock face, he was a motionless bird. Or so I thought. Yes, That Hershey. I gulped. We tunneled through and up to a shaded clearing in the rocks swerving bat shit as we went. It was all very Indiana Jones. In a shallow grave, his back to us, a model corpse with thick black hair crouched in the fetal position. A bracelet of shells fell about his ankle, and a nearby ceramic trough of discarded snail shells lay amid a scattering of animal bone. Related Post: 5 Reasons to Visit Trinidad. While the Cuban whodunnit had got me thinking, I learnt experts had used all tools known to science at the cave. The skeleton was unearthed with a ceremonial petaloid axe, so named for the petal shape of the stone, and a vessel that could well have been used for a ritual. But, crucially, its cranium was cracked — in keeping with the account that the victim died by a forceful blow to the head. Passing the sentry owl petroglyph on our way out, I noticed the bird sat above a circular symbol — like a monochrome lollipop emoji. Claire Boobbyer is a freelance travel writer who writes travel features for the UK national press as well as international media, mostly about Cuba, Vietnam and Laos. She's been visiting Cuba for 20 years and the island is her second home. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Here are 10 famous people you may not have known were Cuban-American but yo In addition to your personal items, here's what Cubans need you to bring wi Plus a bonus that will make the rum drinkers cry every time a new bottle is Laura Catana dives deep into the music of Puerto Rico to offer recommended On January 25, , Ubre Blanca became the world champion when she deliver Chef Louie Estrada teaches his recipe for traditional ropa vieja from his h Puerto Rico's celebrity chef Wilo Benet credits luck and timing for his Gra Puerto Rican drummer and grammy winner Henry Cole has launched a new craft Chef Jami Erriquez recounts her memories to recreate this traditional recip Edgardo Rodriguez was told his El Borikua seasoning was too Latin. Today it A Startup Cuba exclusive interview with the folks behind the scenes of Much Click on 'Watch later' to put videos here. Claire Boobbyer. Add comment. First name Email address:. You may also like. El Equipo. Mayra Padilla. News Washington Post: U. Travel 5 Reasons to Visit Trinidad Today. Cynthia Carris Alonso. Evan Elkowitz. Zuzy Martin-Aly. Christina Martin Kenny. Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Going to Cuba? Puerto Rico. Puerto Rico Puerto Rico.

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