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There may have been a more difficult time to get married than during a pandemic, but not in my memory. Amid various not-so-fun tasks, though, was one that I embraced: shopping. One of the many Egyptian marriage traditions is that you buy all sorts of things for your new home. Since the pandemic made shopping more complicated due to supply chain disruptions, with the help of my mother I decided to buy local. And at the top of my list was locally-produced crafts—because I thought the least I could do during this public health crisis was to demonstrate some support for local artists. Once I discovered that some artisans sold their products online through websites like Jumia or on their personal Instagram accounts, I got to work. I placed orders for salt lamps from Siwa Oasis in the Western Desert—these are supposed to improve your mood—and for a handwoven tableau depicting the Egyptian revolution that was made in Asyut, in the south of Egypt. Then I remembered the exquisite pottery produced in the small village of Tunis , a nearly three-hour drive southwest of Cairo. I ordered several pieces. Many months later, though—after the wedding festivities were over—I started wondering about Tunis and its artisans. With the numbers of international tourists dropping dramatically, how had these craftspeople and their businesses weathered the pandemic? I had to find out—so my new husband and I traveled to Tunis in early November. On our way from Cairo, we passed the Qarun Touristic Lake, flanked by kilometers of farms, and I could feel myself relaxing and unwinding from fast-paced city life. But two hours into the trip, I received a speeding ticket—perhaps I was too anxious to get there. At the entrance to Tunis, a welcome sign flanked by locally-made clay tablets greeted us. I parked my car, we walked into the village, and I started asking questions. A pottery shop in Tunis. Photo by: Kanzy Khafagy. Immediately upon entering the village of Tunis, art surrounded us. Colorful murals covered the village walls, and pottery stores and workshops displayed their beautiful products. We were soon drawn into a pottery shop owned by Ashraf AbdelKadr. AbdelKadr suggested that I try making pottery, and so I sat next to the wheel, followed his instructions to get my hands dirty and … made a mess. But the experience was intimate, one that made me very happy that I had traveled to the village. Kanzy Khafagy at the pottery wheel. Photo by: Omar Mohamed. My husband and I noticed that we were among just a few tourists in Tunis, an observation that seemed to confirm my fears. Another local artisan, Randa Omar, the first female potter in her family, told me that prior to the pandemic the biggest source of business was from foreign tourists as well as expatriates. Randa Omar is the first female potter in her family. Omar was far from alone. Omar was one of the artisans who participated. The Jumia-based sales helped keep her business running. After that positive experience, she plans to launch her own online shop in Until then, she will continue to sell on Jumia and export her products through an Instagram online store called Malaika. He reached out to the wide array of connections among loyal customers and galleries that he has developed for nearly two decades. He sent them broadcast messages on WhatsApp promoting his products and, for the first time, offered to create commissioned pieces. The new approach introduced a new line of business. Sales started slowly, but are starting to pick up. Ashraf AbdelKadr creating a piece of pottery. As I walked back to my hotel in Tunis, I noticed a new store, Minerva Pottery, which looked different from the others. It was modern, double the size of its neighbors, and many shoppers were inside. Most of the other stores were named after the main artisan, but this one was named after the ancient Roman goddess of wisdom and arts. Unlike most of the artisans in Tunis, Khattab is from Giza, outside Cairo. He and his family have been working in the tourism industry since the s, but they shifted to the handicraft industry after the Egyptian revolution. At the beginning, their business model was to sell through galleries, but Khattab said he always knew that they must have a retail presence as well. Tunis offered them what they needed: knowledgeable workers and a steady flow of customers. They opened their first store in October , when domestic tourism was picking up a bit in Egypt. The store was successful enough that he opened a second store in September I had to ask him for his secret. He believed that it was a risk to move to a new industry and another risk to open their first store, but he said it was worth it. Minerva has an active Instagram account that Khattab is running on his own —admittedly a work in progress. The trip to Tunis surprised me in several ways. Talking with them showed me their resilience. Omar, AbdelKadr, and Khattab each found a different way to overcome the challenges of the pandemic. That makes me appreciate them — and their beautiful creations—even more. Skip to Main Navigation. Share this page Facebook x LinkedIn instagram Email whatsup. December 7, A magical entrance Immediately upon entering the village of Tunis, art surrounded us. The shift to digital Omar was far from alone. Higher risk, higher return As I walked back to my hotel in Tunis, I noticed a new store, Minerva Pottery, which looked different from the others. Published in December

A Magical Trip to a Village of Artisans

Asyut buying blow

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