Asshole Drilling

Asshole Drilling

By mikeasaurus

in Workshop Woodworking

About: Build.Share.Destroy.Repeat.
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{
"id": "quiz-1",
"question": "Torque selection for drills allows the drill to stop spinning when a set amount of resistance from the screw is reached.",
"answers": [
{
"title": "True",
"correct": true
},
{
"title": "False",
"correct": false
}
],
"correctNotice": "Correct!",
"incorrectNotice": "That's incorrect"
}
{
"id": "quiz-2",
"question": "It doesn't matter what speed your drill goes, one speed for both drilling and screwing.",
"answers": [
{
"title": "True",
"correct": false
},
{
"title": "False",
"correct": true
}
],
"correctNotice": "Correct! Speeds are different for drilling holes than for driving screws.",
"incorrectNotice": "That's incorrect"
}
{
"id": "quiz-3",
"question": "Pilot holes make drilling larger holes easier",
"answers": [
{
"title": "Yes",
"correct": true
},
{
"title": "Sometimes",
"correct": false
},
{
"title": "No",
"correct": false
}
],
"correctNotice": "Correct!",
"incorrectNotice": "That's incorrect"
}
{
"id": "quiz-4",
"question": "Which prevents tearout when drilling?",
"answers": [
{
"title": "Zero clearance",
"correct": true
},
{
"title": "Final clearance",
"correct": false
},
{
"title": "Drilling in reverse",
"correct": false
}
],
"correctNotice": "Correct",
"incorrectNotice": "That's incorrect"
}

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Drilling holes in things isn't difficult, but knowing a few tricks can improve your projects dramatically. In this lesson the basics of power drills will be covered, as well as techniques for drilling small and large holes.
It seems simple, but there's lots that can go wrong when drilling from wandering drill bits, holes that don't line up, and tear out. Understanding the tool limitations and how the bits work is the best place to start, at the end of this lesson you'll be a pro in drilling.
This fundamental skill in woodworking will be used in almost every project you make, and with a little practice will become second nature. Most of this lesson can apply to both corded and cordless power drills, but for this lesson I'll be exclusively using a cordless drill.
Most of today's power drills do double duty and can be used to drill openings and drive screws. You may not have noticed but most drills actually have settings on them which you can dial in for different applications - some fancier models even have a speed control which you can change from low to high, giving your drill an ever wider range of settings.
The business end of the drill is called the chuck, this is where you insert drill bits. Most drills have a ring of numbers around the chuck, this is the clutch that lets you select the torque for driving screws. You can rotate the ring to choose the torque value of your drill, which will stop the drill from spinning when it reaches a certain amount of resistance: higher the torque value the higher the resistance threshold. This is great when you don't want to over tighten a screw and risk it snapping or boring too far into the wood.
At the end of the torque selector is a drill icon, this tells the drill that you are drilling and have no need to limit the torque (maximum torque).
With most drills the rotational speed can be controlled by how much pressure is applied to the trigger, but many drills will also have a speed selector. This allows you to switch from high speed to low, perfect for driving screws (low speed) to drilling (high speed)
Most drills can handle the double duty of drilling holes and driving screws. There's a few different types of drill bits used to make openings and choosing the right bit is important since different drill bits excel at different things.
Helical - Great all around drill, comes in a variety of sizes and lengths.
Spade - Used to drill large diameter holes, point helps keep bit centered.
Forstner - Creates flat bottom holes, perfect for receiving dowels, comes in variety of sizes.
Hole Saw - Drilling large diameter holes, creates a plug of waste material that is pried out after cutting.
Countersink - Used to create a conical hole in your work so when a screw is placed inside the hole to sit flush with the surface of the surrounding wood.
Driving bits are used to drive screws into wood. There's many shapes that correspond to the head shape of the screw you are using. For clarity, " cam out " is when you are driving a screw and the head slips out of the screw head, this can cause the head of the screw to " strip" , meaning deform the shape of the head making the screw unusable.
Slot - Common style of driver. Advantage is less rotational force needed due to the leverage of the head width, disadvantage is cam out and the driver does not automatically center to the screw.
Robertson - Also called square drive. Advantages are ease of use since screws stay on drive and virtually no cam out, disadvantage is they are not common in some areas (mostly America).
Phillips - Widely used and versatile screw. Advantages are that even incorrect size drive can fit into screws, disadvantage is moderate cam out (though some screws are designed to induce cam out to prevent over tightening).
Torx - Advantages include high torquing and very low cam out, disadvantages are availability to consumer and the accessibility to the right bit when disassembling your work.
Allen - A relative to Torx and can sometimes be used interchangeably. Advantages are low cam out and high torquing ability, disadvantages are that it's uncommon for wood screws (mostly used for machine screws). You probably have a bunch of Allen drivers from IKEA furniture.
This is just a sampling for the many types of screws you're likely to run into. For most projects you'll probably use the most common screw which is the Phillips screw, possibly the Robertson. Start with getting a small selection of each and you'll have most of your options covered for almost all your projects.
While drilling openings into wood you may notice a ragged exit hole, this is called tear out and it can ruin an otherwise nice piece of wood.
The easiest way to prevent tear out is to support your work at the exit point of the tool. Tear out happens because the wood fibers get caught on the drill bit and pushed out the wood, with a sacrificial board supporting the wood fibers at the exit point of the tool you can prevent tear out - this is called zero clearance . To make a zero clearance drill support all you need to do is sandwich another wood board underneath your work, then clamp them together. Zero clearance was explored in previously in Lesson 1 - Tear-out .
If you don't want to use a zero clearance board another trick is if you have a concealed side to your work you can make that side the "exit" side of your drilled opening, leaving the starting point of your drilled opening the "show" side.
To make drilling easier and more precise, especially in dense hardwoods, drill a pilot hole. A pilot hole is a hole with a smaller drill bit than your final size.
This smaller hole will help guide the larger bit for the final size of the opening, and also has the benefit of allowing you to see and correct any minor drilling mistakes before committing to the larger bit.
Hole saws are used to drill out large diameter openings in wood. They come in a variety of sizes, usually stepping up in diameter by ⅛" or ¼" increments, but there are specialty hole saw sizes for any diameter if you're willing to pay for an unusual size.
To prevent tearout, use a sacrificial piece of wood under the wood you are drilling a hole through.
Even though hole saws are removing the perimeter of your hole and will create a plug when finished drilling all the way through, they are covering a lot of surface area and can get bogged down easily. Go slow with the hole saw and push gently, allowing the hole saw teeth to do the work.
After drilling you should have a plug inside your hole saw from the wood you just cut, this plug can be easily removed by inserting a screwdriver through one of the openings in the side of the hole saw and working it out.
If your work was clamped properly, and you used a sacrificial board underneath, you should have clean holes in your wood.
Drilling an opening into wood isn't difficult, but you may notice that even the slightest tilt can make your exit hole somewhere you didn't mean to. Some of this can be corrected by using a pilot hole, but you can get consistently straight holes by using a scrap piece of wood that has a squared end.
Honing our skills from Lesson 1 - Making Perfectly Straight Cuts , we can easily make a straight square cut on a scrap piece of wood and then use this as our reference piece to drill straight holes.
Mark where you want to drill a hole, then place your drill bit on the point. Next bring up your squared scrap against your drill bit until the drill bit sits flush against the squared end. You can move the scrap piece around to the perpendicular side of the dill to check both directions for squareness.
A drill press is a fixed tool that is set up just for drilling straight holes perpendicular to the work piece. The next step if you find yourself doing lots of drilling would be to invest in a drill press, it can save a lot of setup time.
There's going to be some occasions where you'll only want to drill into wood a certain distance and not all the way though. A very easy way to manage drilling depth is to measure from the tip of the drill bit the depth you wish to go, then mark that length with a small piece of tape. Drill down into wood until you reach the tape touches the surface of the wood.
A fun and easy project to hone your drill skills is an upcycled bottle vase , which uses all the skills taught in this lesson to make something functional and chic.
now that we've covered the basics on woodworking construction: cutting straight, drilling openings, and using glue. It's time to turn our attention to finishing wood by learning about sanding .
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Note : This is Lesson 15 of our Free Email Feeds & Speeds Master Class. Click here to learn more about the Master Class.
Ever do a job requiring hundreds or even thousands of holes to be drilled?
How about one where the holes were deep enough you started breaking twist drills?
Deep Hole Drilling is hard, and this article surveys the various techniques needed including peck drilling, parabolic flute drills, custom g-code cycles, and gun or BTA drilling.
Most CNC’ers know about Peck Drilling to help with deep holes. Some use high performance geometries like Parabolic Flute drills.
But it turns out there are a whole host of lessor known techniques to help you succeed when drilling deep holes. I’ve rounded up a number of things that will help you out a lot with Deep Hole Drilling.
The first is my CNC Chef Video on Deep Hole Drilling. I make these videos for Cutting Tool Engineering Magazine , one of the industry’s most respected publications when it comes to all things Cutting Tool-oriented and CNC. My video column there is called “CNC Chef”, which is a play on CNCCookbook.
The second thing is the graphic that’s visible in the video right behind me. That graphic is your handy thumbnail references to when to use these techniques. In fact, I’m going to give you not just that slide, but the whole Slideshow I used for the video. You can print the chart to hang on your wall for reference, or whatever helps.
Now if you download the slides, I’d just like to ask for one favor. Scroll down and subscribe to our blog newsletter. I want us to stay connected and that’s really the best way to ensure you get all our blog articles as they’re published.
For even more detail, keep reading. I’ve even got a cool Custom Deep Hole Drilling Cycle g-code generator for you.
Most tooling manufacturers regard any depth that is more than 3 or 4 times the diameter of the twist drill as a deep hole. There are various fancy geometries, such as parabolic flute drills, that help you to go deeper, but they will also have a limit.
Here’s the graphic at screen scale to help you what technique is best for your deep hole drilling:
We’ve prepared articles to help you drill down and get the full details on each of these techniques:
BTW, G-Wizard Calculator will tell you as part of its hints when you need to adopt a Parabolic flute drill as well as when you may need to start using a peck drilling cycle .
Peck drilling cycles are common on most CNC machines. With peck drilling, the twist drill is retracted periodically some distance to facilitate chip breaking and clearing. There are a lot of different kinds of peck cycles, and the deeper you’re drilling the more frequently you should peck and the further the retraction. The most important thing to keep in mind for peck drilling is the need to avoid trapping chips at the bottom of the hole. If there are chips left at the bottom, they interfere with the ability of the twist drill to re-establish its “bite”, which can result in premature dulling of the drill and poor surface finish.
When pecking, consider pausing the retraction after a very slight retract–say 0.001″. Left the twist drill spin for a couple of revolutions to pull the chips out of the deepest part of the hole. Also, never retract the tip clear of the hole if you’re going back into the hole. Doing so makes it easier for coolant to push chips back into the hole.
G-Wizard Calculator will automatically recommend when peck drilling should be used.
When drilling deeper than 7 x Diameter, twist drills with parabolic flutes are helpful with chip extraction. You can go a lot deeper with a parabolic flute drill–20 x Diameter vs only 7 x Diameter.
G-Wizard Calculator will automatically recommend using a parabolic flute drill when it would be helpful. For more, see our article on parabolic drills .
The biggest obstacle in making deep holes are the chips:
The choice of tooling, technique, and coolant delivery all have a role to play.
Certain kinds of tooling have inherent advantages for deep holes. Parabolic Flute twist drills change the geometry to optimize chip removal for deeper holes. Gun and BTA Drills are all about the needs of deep holes and especially chip evacuation.
Coolant is critical in chip evacuation. The best approach is coolant delivered with as much pressure as possible at the tool tip. High pressure coolant right to the tip brings considerable force to pushing the chips up and out of the hole.
Through spindle coolant delivers coolant at pressure through holes drilled along the length of the bit. This helps blast the chips up and out of the hole from the bottom, and really facilitates deep hole drilling.
Through spindle coolant holes in a twist drill. Note the extra grind to reduce web thickness with a split point…
Peck Drilling Cycles are all about chip breaking and evacuation. Each peck will typically break the chips. Long stringy chips catch on everything and are harder to evacuate. Compact chips can be evacuated more efficiently from deeper holes. The deeper the hole, the more frequently the twist drill must peck to ensure chips stay compact.
In addition, the retract distance is important. Retracting further helps pull chips out of the hole. But, it slows things down the further the bit must be retracted and in addition, care should be taken not to retract completely clear of the hole. An open hole is an invitation for chips to be washed all the way down to the bottom where they must be evacuated a second time.
Custom Deep Hole Cycles use custom g-code to optimize the peck strategy for each stage as the hole gets deeper and deeper.
Unfortunately, canned drilling cycles often have limitations when it comes to drilling very deep holes. What’s needed is a Custom Deep Hole Drilling Cycle.
What’s different about a Custom Cycle versus the normal Canned Drilling Cycles?
First is the pecking strategy. It’s important to be able to start out with a small peck and only go to bigger pecks as the hole gets deep. Doing the full retraction early before the hole has gotten deep is a waste of motion that serves no useful purpose. Ideally, you want to plunge without pecking to a couple of diameters or so and then start pecking. The frequency of the peck needs to increase the deeper the hole is bored. The nature of the peck has to change too based on the hole depth. We start out with a little short retraction–just enough to break the chip. But, as we get deep, longer and longer retractions are necessary as we need to not only break the chips but facilitate chip extraction. Lastly, we want to be able to prevent the twist drill from retracting entirely clear of the hole so that chips are not washed back down the hole.
Second is our feeds and speeds. As the hole gets deeper, we benefit by reducing the feedrate and spindle rpm. There’s no need to do this until the hole reaches a threshold depth, but once we’re at that depth it helps a lot.
Lastly, as long as we’re programming a custom cycle, we want to consider whether to use rapids or feedrate speeds for the peck and retraction from the hole. This is the reverse motion that isn’t cutting anything, and we have the potential of saving more time versus canned drilling cycles that keep all the motions at feedrate speeds.
By using custom g-code to implement all of these considerations, we waste as little time as possible on pecking while ensuring that when the going gets tough we’re doing enough to keep our tool happy without breaking. While Canned Drilling Cycles differ from controller to controller, very few will offer the flexibility to control all of these variables.
G-Wizard Conversational CNC is a set of Wizards that go with the G-Wizard Editor, our g-code editor and cnc simulator . These wizards let you answer a few simple questions and then they generate g-code based on your answers. It’s faster and easier than most CAM programs and helps you get the job done faster. One of the Wizards we’ve included makes it easy to create Custom Deep Ho
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