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Drinking in another gorgeous sunset at Moomba Beach Bar located right next door to my usual address in Aruba.
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Established way back in 1941, Charlie’s Bar Aruba ranks among the most legendary watering holes anywhere in the world; its fame carried across the seas over the years by the many oilmen and sailors who’ve been stationed in Aruba at one point or another.
When you think oil and the Caribbean, you mostly envision glistening beach bodies slathered in the sweet-smelling tanning potions purveyed by the likes of Banana Boat, Hawaiian Tropic, and others. Less known, however, is the region’s long association with the other, darker and infinitely more valuable oil – Texas T, Black Gold – so essential to our modern daily lives.
Some of the largest oil refineries in the world can be found on a collection of small islands throughout the Caribbean, most dating back to the 1940s and ’50s. The advent of these refineries has, over the years, spawned a unique sub-culture of oilmen and women (mostly men), attracted to the region from such disparate lands as the Middle East, Russia, South America, the U.S., and elsewhere. Patrick and I know this Caribbean oil sub-culture all too well as our Dad put us through school and supported our family while working as a Shift Superintendent at the massive Hess Oil Refinery in St. Croix .
There’s a transient, fun-loving, and decidedly male nature to this sub-culture. Home-grown West Indian oil workers like my Dad were in it to make a good living, put down roots, and raise a family. Those from outside the region were, in large part, here today/gone tomorrow, leaving a string of long nights spent partying and breaking hearts in their wake.
For oil men in Aruba , the place for all those long nights of partying and breaking hearts is Charlie’s Bar & Restaurant.
The bar is located in San Nicholas, a town so tied to the oil business that it’s safe to say that it wouldn’t exist if not for the large, decaying refinery that dominates the area. In the boom times, the town was alive with bars, banks, brothels (more on that later), and other businesses catering to the steady stream of refinery workers. Today, San Nicholas is as sleepy as its refinery, which has cut back production drastically over the years as its equipment became outdated.
Metaphorically, geographically and just about any other “ically” you might imagine, San Nicholas is the complete opposite of the pristine resort area along Aruba’s Palm Beach .
Now, as in the boom times, however, Charlie’s is the town’s central attraction; a warm and welcoming place to stop in for a few drinks and make new friends.
When you first walk in, prepare to be overwhelmed (I was) at the massive and infinitely eclectic collection of artifacts displayed all over the bar. Here, it seems, any man’s trash is a treasure, and virtually every man or woman that ever set foot in the place left something behind.
An expired West Virginia driver’s license, old baseballs, classic cameras, cell phones, trumpets, cowboy hats, stuffed animals, license plates from all over the world, a Ross Perot bumper sticker, pennants, and flags for almost every MLB and NFL team; the list goes on and on. There’s even a portrait photo of the Old West outlaw Jesse James donated, according to the bartender that served me on my visit in September, by the descendants of one of the guys who caught him.
Speaking of the bartender, he, like everything else in Charlie’s, is quite a story himself. His name is Cornelius, and he’s been behind the bar at Charlie’s for decades. During his time as a member of the Dutch Marines, Cornelius was stationed in Aruba in the early 1970s and fell in love with the island. After his tour of duty, he returned. “I stumbled back into Charlie’s in 1974, replaced a guy who was here for 42 years named Gambling Gus, and never left.”
How friendly is the vibe at Charlie’s? Well, after noting that I’m from St. Croix, Cornelius dusted off an old bottle of Cruzan Single Barrel Estate Rum (#85215) that had sat in the bar, unopened for more than ten years. He happily peeled off the plastic protecting the cork without a second thought. Instantly, I felt like a regular, and we were soon laughing and sharing stories with a local woman whose mother was visiting from Denmark, and three retired friends traveling together from Philadelphia.
Somewhere between drink #2 and #3, I learned about the brothels. I can’t remember who brought it up, but I do remember that everyone agreed: just about every establishment in San Nicholas not named Charlie’s Bar makes their money by way of the world’s oldest profession. Apparently, prostitution is legal in San Nicholas, making it Aruba’s Red Light District or the De Wallen of the Caribbean, albeit a grittier and less glamorous version.
Whether you’re looking for a good time, or a little bit more, no visit to San Nicholas would be complete without a stop at Charlie’s.
If you happen to be there on September 18, the usual good times are even better. That’s because Charlie’s hosts a blow-out party every five years on the exact date it opened – September 18 – to commemorate the bar’s long and colorful history.
The party spills into the streets as fans of the bar return from all over the world to reminisce, see familiar faces, and, no doubt, leave more stuff behind. The 2011 party marks the bar’s 70th anniversary, so you can bet it will be the biggest, best party yet.
Last updated by Steve Bennett on 07/06/2021 .

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First Timers Trip Report - Casa Del Mar



First Timers Trip Report - Casa Del Mar

1.

Re: First Timers Trip Report - Casa Del Mar

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We're back from our first trip to Aruba . Hope the following trip report will be useful to newbies.
We are a married couple in our 40s living in Birmingham, Alabama. We each get three weeks of vacation a year and are able to fudge a few more days in various ways. We lean toward more adventuresome vacations. We have traveled extensively in the past years in North America, the Caribbean , Europe, Asia and Central America. This year was pretty much an off year in international travel for us as we traveled to Las Vegas, Denver, Aruba and a couple of old Southern standbys we have not visited in recent years – the Florida Panhandle and the Smokey Mountains. We were saddened to find the latter two crushed from hurricane damage and overdevelopment – pretty much everything that was charming and interesting about these vacation spots of our youth is forever lost.
We have a relative with more RCI and II weeks than they can possibly use each year and we decided to use one of these weeks of free accommodations in Aruba in Unit 1308 of the Presidential Suites at Casa Del Mar for the last week of August.
As with many of our vacations, this one began with a two-and-a-half hour drive from Birmingham to Atlanta’s Hartsfield International Airport. We actually ended booking a round trip to Boston on Air Tran and visited with relatives on each end of our trip. We then booked a roundtrip from Boston to Aruba on US Airway. This saved us both time and money believe it or not. For those of you in the Northeast and elsewhere, you should appreciate the low air fare you get to Aruba. We are 1,200 miles closer to Aruba than Boston but our flights are much more. Basically you can take two flights from here to Puerto Rico or the Caymans for the price of one flight to Aruba.
We arrived in Aruba during a lull and immigration was fast and efficient. Luggage retrieval was a little slow and customs was a walk through.
On the return flight , you clear U.S. Customs and Immigration in Aruba, which was pretty painless, so you are home free when you return to the U.S. Retrieving luggage in Atlanta was the typical 45-minute nightmare. US Air recommends arriving at the airport three hours prior for international flights and closes check-in one hour prior, so bring a book. I’m proud to say I made all legs of my flight with a butane lighter in my carryon with no problems.
At least outwardly, the Casa Del Mar is typical of other condos in the low-rise section of Aruba. Units are built around a courtyard featuring a pool, deck, restaurant and bar. Our unit was spacious and had some nice touches. Typical resort activities, tour operator and rent-a-car desk in the lobby, shops, mini-mart, etc. The housekeeping staff was really A-1. All staff was friendly and helpful. We liked being able to clear our bill Friday and leave the keys in the room Saturday to avoid check-out lines. Another nice touch was having use of a suite to kill time between out 11 am checkout and 5 pm flight back home.
Late August was probably a good time to visit as chaise lounges around the pool and chickee huts were always available and things were generally not crowded.
Most of the people staying at Casa Del Mar were Dutch and South American.
Some typical bumps in the road were encountered, as when a partial power outage shut down water and phones for a few hours and on two nights each faucet dispensed hot water. Also, the pool closes as dusk, no ventilation fan in the bathroom and if you want quality toilet paper remember to bring your own.
There is public access and parking on one side of Casa Del Mar. After some break-ins a portable shed was built at the end of the road and there is supposedly some police presence there at times but we never saw any.
Everything you have heard about the beaches and water in this area is true. Developers and/or regulators have done a fair job of building back from the beaches compared to many areas of the world but of course it could have been done better. I am a fanatical daily beach walker and this place was heaven to me. Literally miles where you never leave the sand.
I saw a few bare breasts among the Europeans and one pair was even worth a second glance. 
Some totally charming local kids gathered late one afternoon on the wide part of Manchebo Beach to show off their boogie boarding skills and were a joy to watch.
There is a bagel hut and a Subway sandwich shop on the edge of Casa Del Mar. Unless we missed something everything else in this area are typical overpriced tourist traps. We ate once in the low-rise area at the Pirate’s Nest, a nice view of sunset through a coconut tree grove. Soup, salad, entrée and dessert was $20.00. We ate another night at Pizza Bob’s, the build-your-own, thin-crust pizza was ok and I had a delightful pumpkin soup.
There truly is a lot of cutting-edge cuisine on the island. Scrounge up a copy of International Menu magazine for a sampling of what is available. Remember many restaurants are not air conditioned so if it’s hot and you are whipped at the end of the day you may want to seek out one that is.
Our favorite meal was at Madame Jeanette’s, an eatery you’ll find highly recommended on this bulletin board.
As you travel around the island you will find many local small dining establishments of all ilk, most family owned. You will be welcomed with open arms there and the people there are every bit as skilled in safe food handling and preparation as the people in the tourist restaurants. Do not pass these places up. You will have a fun local experience and full meals are less than the cost of an appetizer at restaurants that cater to tourists. You’ll also find rum shops around the island. These are a great place to stop in for a cold beer and meet some locals.
Modern grocery stores abound in Aruba. If you go in with an open mind rather than a list and shop around a bit you’ll probably get out cheaper than you do at home. Produce is weighed and priced in the produce section in some, as we learned. So if you go to check out with fruit you’ll get sent back to produce.
Casinos are located, at least, in the high-rise, low-rise and Oranjestad areas. We are not big gamblers but made a couple of trips to the Alhambra casino that serves the low-rise area. It had what I like best about casinos – a $5 blackjack minimum, friendly dealers, fast free drinks and fun players. If you have a great run on the blackjack table and gamble and drink until 3:30 a.m. they will happily pour you onto a golf cart and get you back to Casa Del Mar safely, as I can personally attest. 
We certainly found the old adage that Aruba is the most Americanized Caribbean island and the most lacking in culture to be true. But to say that Aruba is devoid of any culture is silly and snobbish. It’s like saying it’s not worth visiting museums in Manhattan because the Louvre is not there. Get off the beaten path a little, visit the museums there, check with the Cas Di Culture and the Aruba Entertainment Center, interact with the locals and visit the Bon Bini Festival if you want to see a slice of Aruban life.
Arubans are a delightfully insane smattering of nationalities and ethnicities. The language was like music to our ears. When you walk the streets and beaches of Aruba you see an awful lot of attractive people. We have run into friendly and helpful people everywhere in our travels. The Aruban people are also very open, and not just the ones who make their living from tourists. Want to talk about the upcoming September elections? Development, crime, the island’s love of soccer and softball, government corruption, family life and education are all fair game and it’s very easy to get your ears talked off.
Another trip to the Caribbean, more regret that we have never taken the time to get certified in scuba. There are snorkel sites that are accessible from shore. The ABC islands dive site is a good source of information for that. However, you would probably have to do some careful planning to miss the tourist boats in these areas.
It’s probably not worth renting equipment for, but if you have your own its worth snorkeling for a few minutes in the low-rise area. You’ll see ever-present, large schools of baitfish and a few larger fish. Snorkeling outfits abound in Aruba. We used Pelican Tours and enjoyed snorkeling on the Antilla wreck a lot.
We visited Baby Beach one afternoon and boy was that ever a mixed experience. From the surrounding hillsides it is a view worthy of a Tahitian travel brochure. Because it so easily accessible and so beautiful, it is crowded and has a shade-and-chair-rental concession. Snorkel equipment rentals are available at Jads Beach Store on the way in. We were traveling about that day and the folks at Jads were nice enough to hose us off after snorkeling. There are also concessions and a place to change there.
We were mortified at the lack of education taking place at Baby Beach. We saw many, many people feeding all kinds of junk food to the fish and standing on coral. Someone really needs to get some signage up there. If you have the swimming skills to get beyond the pass (it’s easy to determine if you do – head out of the pass and if the surf starts kicking your butt go back) you will probably be alone and you will be very richly rewarded. Well worth the effort and a stunning variety.
If you see kite surfers in this area or other parts of the island on the way in it is well worth stopping and watching for a few minutes. They go really, really fast.
Prostitution is legal in Aruba. Don’t be misled by the rumors – marijuana is not. Prostitution is primarily practiced in the San Nicholas area in the chica bars by South American girls who are granted six-month work permits by the Aruban government for that purpose. Some are very pretty. So if you make eye contact with a young girl and smile in these bars and she comes over it ain’t to give you her phone number - lol.
There is a full-page of ads in the local paper for exotic massage girls. One is located just off the high-rise area and all offer to visit your hotel. One was called “One Happy Ending” which we thought was just hilarious.
You won’t have to get far off the beaten path in Aruba to be offered drugs. I was offered a small bag in Oranjestad and I look like the most unlikely person anyone would approach. Of course, some of these are police stings. We were told a typical tourist could expect to be asked for $200-$300 to buy their way out of the problem on the spot, which is probably a good value considering the alternative of dealing with it through official channels. So, partakers should be aware it does take place on the island but like other areas in the Caribbean you are going to have a very bad day if you get caught.
Don’t be misled by the island’s size. It will take two long hard days to visit every area and then there will be parts you will want to see more of.
We used a combination of tours, taxis, busses and a rental car to see the island and its waters. All were very efficient. We were told the under-the-table payment to obtain a taxi driver’s permit has skyrocketed from $10,000 to $30,000 in recent years and permits have been frozen at 400. So these are people who value their job very much. Rate sheets are used rather than meters and the drivers were always honest. The bus makes frequent stops along the high rise area and goes also from the low-rise to the edge of the major shopping district downtown.
Ask the hard questions of your insurance and /or credit card company before you go (If I tear an oil pan off the car on a dirt road in a national park am I covered?) and also check carefully with the rental car company (What areas am I restricted from driving in? Does that also apply to 4WD cars ? If I buy the CDW does that mean I won’t have to pay daily rental fees on the car while it is in the shop if I wreck it?) Aruba evidently has some kind of shared fault driving laws where you face partial blame if someone runs a red light and hits you but the police feel you should have been able to avoid them. The police, by the way, are laid-back sorts. I blew past a couple with no problems, drinking a beer and driving is no problem (but if you have a wreck or otherwise draw attention to yourself your blood alcohol will be tested). You’ll see underage people in the casinos and drinking and smoking openly everywhere.
We bought a laminated map from Berndston.com before we left and found it very useful. The beaches are well-marked. It’s kind of hard to tell where the various named beaches begin and end in the high-rise and low-rise areas but they are more pronounced in other areas of the islands.
As you travel around the island the high average income of Aruba is evident. You’ll see lots of modest homes but few shacks. Your digital camera doesn’t represent months of income as it does in some areas of the world. Generally we felt safe during our visit. We were only in San Nicholas during the day but it is gritty and probably would require an extra dose of caution after dark.
We saw some gang graffiti but no signs of organized activity.
We were always able to find someone who spoke English.
Panhandling and peddling are prohibited on the island and that is obviously strictly enforced. I’ve never been to an island before without being accosted by hair braiders and the like. How refreshing!
Noord , Oranjestad, Santa Cruz, Saveneta and San Nicholas all have their charms and are not to be missed. For an easy view of typical neighborhoods, just walk past the main shopping district in Oranjestad and explore the neighborhoods off the water.
Being from Alabama we viewed the Alabama mural in Oranjestad with interest. It is a painting of the state headlined by the words “Welcome to Alabama.” It accurately highlights the state’s history of lynching, Native American removal, crime, current missing
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