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A few years ago I had booked a trip to Switzerland for my then boyfriend, now ex and I. It was all planned and paid for but before the trip happened. We broke up. And as the story goes, I phoned Erna to tell her the news and after a fraction of a second of empathy she inquired about the trip to Switzerland. A few months went by and I eventually caved and brought her with me. And now the expectation is that every two years I take her on a trip to Europe. Plan something incredible and break down crying at her inability to use a camera at least once. Tis year August following a cancelled Eras Tour in Vienna we spent six days hiking and sleeping in huts in the Italian Dolomites. This route, without any help from Dolomiti Superski would be Before I get into this, just a general disclaimer that I did my best to put together all of the information I cold find to the best of my ability. It is, to my knowledge, accurate as of Summer I am not a professional guide - just a girl who wants to see more people get out and do cool things! This hike is not official. It was something that I along with Dolomiti Superski were able to put together last minute during the busiest week in the high season of Italian Summer. It is a. Average day: 3. Mid-July to mid-September seems to be the consensus on the best time for hiking in the Alps. Early to mid-September is an especially enjoyable time to hike since September typically has less rain and a more stable weather pattern than either July or August, but the days are a lot shorter as the season goes on. Accommodation in huts is often full during July and August so plan to book those in advance. However, by mid September a number of the huts along the route begin to close - but those that were open seemed to be available with a day or two notice especially during the weekdays. We started our hike August 10, and had overall really great but hot weather. One of the main questions from North Americans about hiking in the Alps is : can you do this without a guide? There was not a second on this trip that my mom or I felt unsafe or lost unsafe on the trail. Most of the trail had cell phone service and there are people everywhere nothing more demoralizing than 9 hours of hiking to meet up with a family of 5 piling out of a mini van. Almost all of the trail is marked red and white for easy trail, blue and white for more challenging terrain with signs indicating direction and hiking time to the next point of interest examples below. We also had a gps map on our phone if we wanted to triple check anything. This information and map are from the Val Gardena tourism website and can be found in their original form here. I find it to be the most accurate information to anywhere in the Dolomites. The easiest international airport to fly into is Munich. I do find the train systems very was to navigate even as someone who does not use public transportation ever - I grew up in the country and most places I go are not like Italy and therefore not accessible by transit. But arriving by. The easiest way to reach Val Gardena is via the Brenner motorway A To avoid congestion and to get to Val Gardena safely, stay up-to-date with the latest traffic conditions in South Tyrol. Cristina and Selva. When travelling by train, you can leave your car at home. Travel times, costs and ticket information can be found online. From there, you can travel by bus or taxi. Italy: Trenitalia. Germany: Deutsche Bahn. Switzerland: SBB. Val Gardena can be reached comfortably and affordably by bus. Whether you want to plan your entire journey by bus or are only looking for transport to Val Gardena from an airport or train station, there are many options available. There are also convenient bus connections with frequent departure times for getting around Val Gardena later on. Kind of… but it is more of a legal grey area in Italy. Erna and I love camping but opted out of it on this trip for two reasons:. We wanted to experience the European hut system and;. We did not want to carry heavy packs given the distances we would be covering every day. Regardless, stay in at least a few huts. They are worth the splurge for the experience and food alone. Mountain refuges in Europe are nothing like North American hiking huts. They range from high alpine hotels to more dormitory style rustic hostels. The rooms in the huts are large and contain anywhere from beds generally bunk beds stacked two or three high or you can opt for a private room for a little bit more money you will need to book in advance to secure these. I outline all of this in my packing guide. Most refuges provide half-pension also called demi-pension or half board. This includes your bed for the night, as well as dinner and breakfast. Dinner is often a lavish, multi-course affair. They can typically cater to vegetarians, vegans and those with gluten free diets with a few days notice. Some will have eggs though which is a true luxury. Although you can bring your own food, I found the dinner to always be worth the cost - even if the breakfasts were very basic compared to what I am used to. The cost of these huts vary from 60 - euro per night including half-pension. Notes that apply to some, but not all, of the huts:. Alcohol and snacks can be purchased a-la-carte. A packed lunch can usually be ordered for the next day around 15 euro. Some huts will have wifi but I would not rely on it. Not all have potable water, you can bring a water filter like a SteriPen for when it is not avail but bottled water can also be purchased. Bed bugs have been reported in some huts, call in advance. The huts get really warm overnight, even at low capacity. However it depends valley to valley and Italian is also commonly spoken as well as Ladin. Just be extra patient and appreciative - remind yourself often that if they are speaking English to you that they are doing you a favour as it is their country in which English is not one of their native tongues. And download a translation app. Yes, unlike in North America, Europeans do not filter their glacial water unless there is livestock around. Just remember to fill up before heading up a pass. And bring electrolytes with you. They are hard to find in Europe. Not really - everyone accepted cards. But I would recommend bringing euros per person with you just in case. Note: USD is not accepted anywhere. This was, of course, the biggest question. The cost for the huts is per person per night and you have a lot of variety when it comes to this. If you are comfortable sleeping in a larger shared dormitory style room and bring your own meals this will be a lot more affordable than staying in private rooms with half board I would personally not recommend full board - the lunches are very basic and heavy… and you pass huts every day that will have better food for almost the same price. This varies depending on where you are flying from and how far advance you book or if there is a sale. The nearest airports to the Dolomites are with Munich or Milan most locals recommend flying into Munich. We rented a car and drove from Vienna but I think that using the train system from wherever you fly into will make the most sense. This can be slightly confusing at first but every country has their own train system and corresponding app - and the trains typically do not need to be booked in advance. But having the app makes it easier to plan your route. You can also buy tickets at the train platforms - or what I did was plan my train and then purchase the ticket as soon as I got on just in case I missed the train I was hoping for. South Tirol. For the lifts we partnered with Dolomiti Superski and had a one week unlimited pass which you can purchase online and gives you access to all of the lifts across the 15 regions that Dolomiti Superski covers. This is crucial to accomplishing this route in the 6 day timeframe. Budget around euro per person per day if you plan on staying in mountain huts - this includes half fare at the huts and purchasing lunch. Phone plans : I have googleFi which includes international data if you are thinking about it - click here to use my link to sign up. Otherwise any eSim works. Most of the huts do also have free wifi. But previously have used Manulife. I planned this to be able to cover the most distance possible and show Erna some of the most beautiful parts of the Dolomites in the timeframe that we had. Click the below map for all of our stops and a few alternate suggestions. It is absolutely beautiful. We had our own private room and bathroom - there is even a sauna. If you wanted this to be even easier. It is 3. I even ran into one of my guides from Patagonia along this trail. Talk about small world! From there we took the two lifts down into Corvara where Erna decided to purchase hiking poles and I dropped a few things off in our luggage. This pop into town is nice after one night when you have a better feeling for if you over or under packed at all. The Borest gondola is a more lateral transport and then Colfosco helps you gain some elevation. But not all, it is still over m to go up through a very beautiful valley before having lunch at a very crowded Rifugio Puez. I ordered a pasta dish and we sat in the sun - it felt vey Italian Summer. This day was long - we made our way to Rifugio Firenze and arrived just before dinner in time to have a quick shower. We had a three bed room to ourselves. This hut was more rustic but the staff were so incredibly friendly and accommodating such as me asking for hot water to make coffee at 4am when we went on out sunrise hike the following morning. Showers are available for 3 euro and towels are available to rent. There is wifi but it is on the slower side. Unfortunately for me the sun was rising directly behind Seceda which is not the photos I wanted. In mid October the sun is further south and provides a much nicer side light at sun rise. We ended up taking photos toward Langkofel Mountain instead. After sunrise we made our way back down to Rifugio Firenze for breakfast. Packed up and Erna took the gondolas per the itinerary and number above and I decided to go for a 12km trail run as part of my marathon training plan as seen on my strava. I do not recommend this. I would probably not recommend eating here. It is extremely expensive, the staff were quite ruse and the food was probably the worst we had the entire trip. There are plenty of smaller huts just a short walk along the trail that I think would be better. We ended up taking a small detour into Compatsch to use their restroom and fill up with water. Which extended our hike slightly. At the end there is a large pass to climb - but the Rifugio Tierser Alpl was my favourite accommodation along the trail. Not only is there an extremely beautiful sunset spot 15 minutes form the hut - the food was incredible, the hut its self was really beautiful and the staff were extremely accommodating. Notes: Showers at Rifugio Tierser Alpl are 5 euro for 3 minutes of hot water and towels are available to rent. There is also wifi available. And then the Passo Pordoi — Sass Pordoi tram which saved a lot of elevation gain up to our hut. We woke up at 5am and left Rifugio Tierser Alpl at for a 6am sunrise at the small hill beside Rifugio Tierser Alpl - we then made it back before breakfast started. So we packed up before breakfast ate and began our hike. We stopped for lunch at Rifugio Friedrich August - which was good but very busy and quite expensive for what we ate. It does have very beautiful views and I do not regret this stop. But if you are on a budget it may be one to swap out. This was more of a novelty and you can find my video on instagram here. It is about 20 minutes up and 20 minutes down. We ended up ending to ride it twice as we were unaware that filming is not allowed without first speaking with the person int he ticket booth. If we were not short on time due to the double lift we would have likely had a coffee at the cafe at the top before riding it town. If you do purchase the Dolomiti Superski pass I would absolutely take this gondola as a novelty - there are also ways that you could incorporate it into your hiking trail and not as a detour. Hiked for 30 minutes or so and then made it to the Passo Pordoi — Sass Pordoi tram. This tram felt nostalgic for me as I took it for a sunset hike photo below in with my friends Hayden and Kelsey and we met the boys from the Swiss photography group The Alpinists who have since become some great friends. This is a very cool looking hut and a great place to spend some time. They also make a great cappuccino. The dinner is a set menu with a few choices that you choose from at check in - if you have the option for the polenta with cheese - get that. It is what Erna had, I went for the white steak which ended up being pork which I do not typically eat and plain polenta and it was… fine at best. The rooms are quite modern and we shared a room with two women from Germany - whom Erna woke ups t am when she spilled the contents of her backpack on the floor when leaving the rom to go and read. This is when she got a lecture form me about having everything ready the night before when sharing a room in a hut. There is wifi but it is extremely slow and there is very little cell phone service. This hut is more remote and all services have to be helicoptered in. The experience does reflect this. However it was only a 22 minute hike up in the morning so I should truly not complain. I do not disagree and will try my best to appreciate Erna and her lack of fear when asking questions even when she knows the answer is likely no. There is no ordering specialty coffee most will do this for an additional charge and the breakfast was a buffet of cheese and meat as well as granola and yogurt but you are only allowed one piece of bread and one small bun. Typically there is no limit on carbs. From breakfast we packed but knew that this day was exceptionally short so were in no rush. This trail is mostly easy as it wraps along a broad plateau but there is a small section wherein the trail is quite washed out and steep. Notes: Showers are not always available. It sounded like some days they open the showers at 3pm some days there are no showers. No towels are available. The wifi here is pretty weak but there is cell phone service. Our final day. I feel if you have made it this far you will notice that this trip was structured with three really long hard days and three very casual days but it was a loop that ended us right where we started and that was the plan. This was all downhill RIP to your knees - we took photos at sunrise from the hut and then packed up. Breakfast was good salami, cheese and bread with optional preserves but the coffee was terrible - I ended up asking for hot water and quietly made a Starbucks via. And then we hiked out. It was mostly uneventful. A few sections that had iron ropes in place for added support. But just a very downhill downhill into town where we met the Borest gondola that took us to Corvara. We ended up meeting with a friend who works at Alta Badia tourism for a coffee at Berghotel Ladinia which was the very first inn in Alta Badia. It has amazing coffee and a beautiful ambiance. I would highly recoemdn stopping by on your way out of town. My full GPS tracks are available by following me on Strava you can find each day by looking at August , But I did try to build a map of what this hike would look like without supports on strava. You can find it via the button below. As always, all ideas and opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own. Thank you for your support! Like this post? Pin it for later and share it with others! Aug 26 Written By Andrea Ference. Is it safe to hike without a guide or as a solo person male or female? By Train When travelling by train, you can leave your car at home. Can you camp instead of staying in huts? Erna and I love camping but opted out of it on this trip for two reasons: We wanted to experience the European hut system and; We did not want to carry heavy packs given the distances we would be covering every day. Notes that apply to some, but not all, of the huts: Alcohol and snacks can be purchased a-la-carte. People snore, bring good quality earplugs. What languages are used along the route? At a restaurant or mountain hut: Beer: 5 euro Coffee: 5 euro Pastry: 6 euro Packed lunch from mountain hut: euro Lunch from a mountain hut: euro. Is there water along the trail? Will I need cash? The nearest airports to the Dolomites are with Munich or Milan most locals recommend flying into Munich Transportation We rented a car and drove from Vienna but I think that using the train system from wherever you fly into will make the most sense. You can also buy tickets at the train platforms - or what I did was plan my train and then purchase the ticket as soon as I got on just in case I missed the train I was hoping for South Tirol Austria Switzerland Germany For the lifts we partnered with Dolomiti Superski and had a one week unlimited pass which you can purchase online and gives you access to all of the lifts across the 15 regions that Dolomiti Superski covers. Other Phone plans : I have googleFi which includes international data if you are thinking about it - click here to use my link to sign up. Map Click the below map for all of our stops and a few alternate suggestions. Notes :. Day four starting point : Rifugio Tierser Alpl distance : Tour d'Erna on Strava. A half circumnavigation of Mont Blanc - one of Europe's most iconic mountains. A solo hut trip. Andrea Ference.

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The Sella Ronda for example is one-of-a-kind connection of lifts and downhill runs functions like an alpine merry-go-round, circumnavigating a particularly vertiginous chunk of the Dolomites named the Sella Massif. Skiers use lifts to move either clockwise or counterclockwise around Sella, negotiating four mountain passes and bombing down what amounts to 35km of intermediate groomed terrain. In true Italian form, the Alta Badia ski region is rife with rifugios — mountain huts serving everything from pizza to Michelin-starred cuisine. From the very first run you will appreciated the gentle slopes — anything more technical would be distracting from the scenery. As you ski you will gap at degree views of endless snowfields peppered with pine forests set against a backdrop of colossal limestone buttresses, bluffs, shoots and spires. Even the rifugios were designed to showcase the landscape, with ample wrap-around porches so skiers can soak in the gigantic views and the sunshine — all while sipping on a Aperol-spritz aperitif. But if you like a relaxed Italian vibe, exquisite scenery, uncrowded slopes and delicious food, then this is definitely the place to ski. That is the one-line pitch for the Alta Badia ski region, near the Italian-Austrian border. It sounds too good to be true. But after a couple of sunny days in the Dolomites, I promise you to be completely seduced. Culturally, the South Tyrol is an interesting crossroads. It was part of Austria-Hungary until when it was awarded to Italy in one of those deals brokered by the old Great Powers of Europe. Benito Mussolini proceeded with a brutal policy of Italianisation. Speaking German became illegal, forbidding Tyroleans from communicating in their common language. South Tyrol was dragged into Italy whether it liked it or not. German is still spoken more than Italian. But the old wounds of a divided community have mostly healed. There is a growing realization that South Tyrol now enjoys the best of both worlds: politically, it has a semi-autonomous status within Italy, and yet it benefits from the mellowing influence of Mediterranean culture. As a skiing destination, the region is capitalising on one of its natural advantages: food. One of the great pleasures of skiing is being hungry: food tastes better when you need it. In many resorts, that fact is often lazily exploited, not so in the Dolomites. You will eat wonderful local food — both up the mountain and down it — without being ripped off. Web Design by. Facebook-f Linkedin Instagram. Get A Quote. The Skiing Experience. There's skiing the Alps, and then there's skiing the Italian Alps. We never set out to be the biggest ski tour operator in the Dolomites, just the best. Quick Links. Reach Us.

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