Adahlia

Adahlia




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Adahlia

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Marie Iannotti is a life-long gardener and a veteran Master Gardener with nearly three decades of experience. She's also an author of three gardening books, a plant photographer, public speaker, and a former Cornell Cooperative Extension Horticulture Educator. Marie's garden writing has been featured in newspapers and magazines nationwide and she has been interviewed for Martha Stewart Radio, National Public Radio, and numerous articles.


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Barbara Gillette is a master gardener, herbalist, beekeeper, and journalist. She has 30 years of experience propagating and growing fruits, vegetables, herbs, and ornamentals.


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Jessica Wrubel has an accomplished background as a writer and copy editor, working for various publications, newspapers and in public libraries assisting with reference, research and special projects. In addition to her journalism experience, she has been educating on health and wellness topics for over 15 years in and outside of the classroom.


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When and how should I harvest my dahlia flowers?


How do you keep a cut dahlia arrangement fresh?


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Dahlias are late-season bloomers . They bloom from mid-summer through the first frost and are available in a vast array of colors, patterns, sizes, and flower forms. Plant size ranges from compact border varieties to species that have plate-sized blossoms atop 6-foot plants. Despite this diversity, most dahlias grow on long, erect stems that give the blooms room to show off. Native to Mexico and Central America, dahlias boast over 20,000 cultivars and 30 species and are the prized darlings of plant breeders and florists alike. However, pet lovers beware, as this species of flower is toxic to both dogs and cats. 1


This plant is a native perennial only in tropical climates and is considered an annual in zones lower than 8. For this reason, Dahlias can be temperamental and fussy about their growing conditions, yet many of the newer cultivars are more reliable and easy to grow..


Dahlias grow from tubers and can be planted outdoors after the last frost when the soil has warmed. Yet, they are too tender to leave in the ground all winter long in most zones. When grown as annuals , you'll need to dig up your dahlias and store the tubers indoors for winter, and then replant them in the spring. The plants reach maturity and bloom about eight to ten weeks after planting.


Stunning dahlias are actually fairly easy to grow. Grown from tubers, not bulbs, you can start dahlias indoors in early spring, and then plant them outdoors once the danger of frost has passed. Or, you can wait until the soil has warmed in the spring, and then plant the tubers directly outdoors. Plant tubers two to six inches deep, depending on variety. The plants need good air circulation to thrive, so place smaller varieties about 12 inches apart and large cultivars up to three feet apart. Regardless of where you grow them—in the ground or in containers—plant tubers in an area that receives full sun , water them regularly, and fertilize them promptly when new growth appears.


Dahlias require the one-time task of pinching off the tops, once the tubers have sprouted and formed branches. Wait until three sets of branches appear, and then top the stem just above the highest set of branches. This pruning tactic encourages the plant to grow more branches, thus creating more blooms. Within months, you'll be treated to a garden full of stunning, colorful, and oversized blooms . Just be sure to deadhead faded blooms to keep the plant looking tidy and to encourage flowering.


In order to produce abundant blooms, dahlias require full sun, preferably 6 to 8 hours a day. In climates more similar to their native growing zone ( USDA zones 8 and up) this plant will benefit from shade midafternoon, when the sun is especially hot. 3


Dahlias prefer rich, loamy soil with plenty of organic matter that drains well. If your backyard soil tends towards a denser clay, add sand, peat moss, or manure to loosen the soil texture for better drainage. Dahlias thrive in a neutral soil pH of around 6.5.


Plant dahlia tubers in the spring, and then let nature take its course until sprouting occurs. Do not water dahlia tubers until green growth shows above the surface. They will not need water before their root system develops.


Once sprouted, water your dahlias once or twice a week. Make sure to water deeply, as large tubers may be planted six inches deep. If summer days are especially hot and dry, you may need to water more frequently and never let the soil dry out.


Timing is especially important when it comes to planting dahlias, as they'll struggle to establish in cold soil. Wait until the final spring frost has passed and the ground temperatures have reached 60 degrees Fahrenheit.


You can start tubers in containers indoors—perhaps in a garage or greenhouse—to get them off to a quick start. It's safe to plant them outdoors when all danger of frost is passed. If you plan to dig up tubers and store them indoors for winter , make sure your storage area has a little humidity so they don't shrivel up and dry out.


Dahlias are heavy feeders—the more food they receive, the larger the plant will grow, and subsequently, the bigger (and more numerous) their flowers will be. Use a fertilizer with a high percentage of phosphorus (perhaps a 10-30-20 ratio) to promote blooming. For the amount, follow the product label instructions. Do not use one with a high percentage of nitrogen. Too much nitrogen creates lush foliage, but few blooms. 4


If you plan to dig up and store your tubers for winter, stop fertilizing your plants at the end of August. You don't want to encourage more growth late in the season as you prepare the tubers for dormancy.


Dahlias come in many different patterns, textures, and colors—the types are innumerable. A few favorite varieties take on different shapes and flower patterns and include the following:


You can propagate dahlias either from cuttings or from overwintered tubers. Propagating from cuttings requires waiting until your tubers sprout in the spring. However, you can get a jump start on the growing season by dividing your dahlia tubers and planting them in containers indoors, before outdoor temperatures warm up. Come summer, your plants will be fully mature and may flower earlier. Plus, dividing your tubers before planting yields more plants and, ultimately, more flowers.


Here's how to propagate dahlias from tubers:


Here's how to propagate dahlias from cuttings:


Dahlias can be grown from seeds purchased at your local nursery. or from seeds collected from last year's plants. To do so, first, fill a seeding tray with seed starting mix and sow seeds indoors, directly into this medium, four to five weeks before the last frost. Move the tray to a sunny window and keep the soil moist. Once sprouted, allow the seedlings to form one true set of leaves before transplanting each seedling into its own cell or small pot; keep the soil moist. Once outdoor soil temperatures reach 65 to 70° F, transplant the seedlings directly into an outdoor garden bed. 


If you're growing dahlias in containers , the bigger the container the better. A good rule of thumb is to use a container that is at least 12 inches deep and wide. If you use containers this large, there should be no need to repot your dahlias during the season. Bring your containers outside in the summer to assure full growth and plentiful blooms, and stake the stems so that they stay upright.


You can also grow compact dahlia varieties , which require less space.


Dahlia tubers need to be dug up and stored for the winter in most zones. To do so, first, select the healthiest plants from your garden, and then wait for the first hard frost then cut the plant back to 4 inches above the ground. Leave the tubers in the ground for one week before digging them up. Dig up each root ball starting at least one foot away from the stem. Carefully remove the tubers (taking care not to damage them) and clean off excess dirt. Allow the root ball to air dry in a place that is sheltered from frost and out of direct light. At this point, you can either bag and store the whole root ball, or carefully separate the tubers and store them individually. Store your tuber pots, boxes, or bags in a cool, dark, and humid place with temperatures between 40 and 50 F. A basement or root cellar works best; just don't let them freeze.


Common pests, like slugs , earwigs , caterpillars, and thrips , adore dahlias. Slugs are especially problematic when the foliage is young and tender. Once the plants mature, slugs are usually not a problem. 4 Some gardeners have trouble with deer, while others claim the deer avoid their dahlias. This may simply depend on the variety of other munchies in your garden. Keep your flowers protected, just in case.


Dahlias are also prone to powdery mildew and other fungal diseases. Keep the foliage as dry as possible and space out your plants to provide good air circulation. If you notice an infection, treat it with neem oil or another natural solution. 5


Dahlias bloom best when the plant is not flopping to the ground, so be sure to use stakes and twine to keep them up and erect. Fertilize your dahlias every two weeks to allow flowers to proliferate. An organic fertilizer that is high in phosphorous will assure a good flowering rate and strong stems. Be sure to provide ample water for your dahlia bed, especially those containing large varietals, and mulch around the bottom to retain moisture. Lastly, make sure to deadhead your plants as soon as the flowers are spent. removing dead flowers promptly will encourage more blooms.


Stem rot can occur in dahlia beds that have been watered too profusely or in those that have poor drainage and heavy soil. To avoid this, always amend your soil before planting, and never allow for standing water in your garden beds. Dahlias also seem to topple over and wilt during the heat of a midsummer day. This is not necessarily a problem, as it's the plant's way of adapting to stress. If the bed is moist, your dahlias should perk back up once the sun goes down.

Dahlia blooms are ready to be harvested once the flowers are almost fully open, as they don't open much more after they are cut. 6 For the longest stems, cut the flower at its stem base, and don't be afraid to sacrifice the small side shoots. Harvesting the plant encourages more flowers and more branching, so cut long stems for fuller plants and more blooms.
To ensure the longest-lasting arrangement, cut blooms in the morning when temperatures are cool and the plant is full of water. Then, bring the cut stems indoors and plunge them into 2 or 3 inches of hot tap water (not boiling) to seal them off. 4 Wait until the water cools, and then arrange them in a vase or container with fresh water.
With over 20,000 cultivars and 30 species, dahlias come in nearly every color except for blue, black, and green.
Dahlia . ASPCA Animal Poison Control.
Dahlia . ASPCA Animal Poison Control.
Summer-Flowering Bulbs: Plant Now; Enjoy Later . University of Missouri Division of Plant Sciences .
Growing and Caring for Dahlias . University of Idaho Extension .
Powdery Mildew . Clemson Cooperative Extension .
How to Grow Dazzling Dahlias . Rutgers Cooperative Extension .  
Red, pink, orange, yellow, purple, white





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How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Dahlias


Slugs and snails : Bait 2 weeks after planting and continue to bait throughout the season.
Spider mites : To avoid spider mites, spray beginning in late July and continue to spray through September. Speak to your garden center about recommended sprays for your area.
Earwigs and Cucumber Beetle : They can eat the petals though they do not hurt the plant itself.
Aphids
Deer : Find a list of deer-resistant plants to grow around your dahlias.
Powdery Mildew : This commonly shows up in the fall. You can preventatively spray before this issue arises from late July to August. 





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Dahlias are gorgeous flowers that bloom from midsummer through autumn. They bloom in a rainbow of colors and in sizes, ranging from petite 2-inch pompoms to giant 15-inch “dinner plates.” Most varieties reach 4 to 5 feet tall.
See our full guide on how to plant, grow, and care for these stunningly gorgeous, colorful flowers that bloom from midsummer through autumn, when many plants are past their best.
Dahlia is a member of the Asteraceae family, which also includes the sunflower , daisy , chrysanthemum , zinnia , and, of course, aster .
Dahlias inspire awe and a good cheer. Growing vegetables? Put a row of dahlias on the border, where they will not shade your edibles. They make for lovely cut flowers.
Dahlias love moist, moderate climates. Though not well suited to extremely hot climates (such as southern Florida or Texas), dahlias brighten up any sunny garden with a growing season that’s at least 120 days long. 
The tubers are planted in the ground in late spring. They are considered a tender perennial in colder regions of North America. They are reliably winter hardy in hardiness zones 8 to 11, although gardeners in zones 6 and 7 may have luck keeping them in the ground as well. In colder zones, dahlias can either be treated as annuals or dug up after the first frost and stored indoors for winter. ( See what hardiness zone you’re in !)
Picking a favorite dahlia is like going through a button box. In addition to coming in a rainbow of colors, dahlia flowers can range in size from petite 2-inch lollipop-style pompoms to giant 15-inch “dinner plate” blooms. Most varieties grow 4 to 5 feet tall.
Dahlias thrive in 6 to 8 hours of direct sun, especially morning sunlight. They benefit from protection from wind, as strong winds can blow over tall dahlias if they are not supported. Consider their size at maturity when planting.
Dahlias will do best in rich, well-draining soil with a pH level of 6.0 to 7.5. Amend heavy clay soil with aged manure or compost to lighten and loosen the soil texture for better drainage.
Medium- to dwarf-size dahlias do well in containers that have drainage and are big enough to support the plant at maturity. Generally, a 12x12 inch container will suffice.
Check out our video to learn more about growing dahlias in your garden:
When dahlias are established, water 2 or 3 times a week and more in hot, dry climates. Be prepared to tend to plants before or after rain. Large, open blooms tend to fill up with water or take a beating from the wind. 
There are about 60,000 named varieties and 18 official flower forms, including cactus, peony, anemone, stellar, collarette, and waterlily. The American Dahlia Society recognizes 15 different colors and color combinations. Here are some popular choices:
The more you cut dahlias, the more they’ll bloom—and dahlias are beautiful in a vase. For a bouquet, cut stems in the morning before the heat of the day and put them into a bucket of cool water. Remove stems’ bottom leaves and place the flowers into a vase of water. Place the vase in a cool spot and out of direct sun. Check the water daily. The bouquet should last about a week.
Unless you live in a warmer region ( USDA Hardiness Zone 8 or warmer), you’ll have to dig up dahlias in late fall. Native to Mexico, Dahlias won’t survive freezing temperatures. Digging and storing dahlias is extremely easy and simple, and will save you the money that would otherwise go into buying new ones each year.
Wait to dig up dahlia tubers until the top growth dies back or is killed by the first hard frost. See your fall frost dates for an idea of when frost usually arrives in your area.
Dahlia foliage blackens with the first frost. Take it as a warning to begin digging up (lifting) dahlias. Complete the task before a hard frost.
Delay cutting dahlia stems until right before digging, because the stems are hollow and can collect water, which in turn promotes crown rot and tuber decay.
Tuber clumps can either be left intact for the winter and divided in the spring, or they can be divided in the fall. Some gardeners find that it is easier to divide in the fall, and divisions are more convenient to store. 
Check on the dahlia tubers occasionally over the winter. Remove any tubers that have started to rot before the decay spreads to healthy tubers.
In spring, separate healthy tubers from the parent clump and discard wrinkled or rotten ones. Plan to plant the survivors.
Each tuber must have at least one “eye” or piece of the crown attached or it will not develop into a blooming plant. The eyes are little pink bumps at the base of the stem.
If this all seems like too much bother or you do not have the right storage place, skip digging and storing, and just start over by buying new tubers in the spring.
The Dahlia you brought to our isle
Your praises forever shall speak
‘Mid gardens as sweet as your smile
And colour as bright as your cheek .
–Lord Holland (1773–1840)
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I’m in California—how many years can dahlias stay in the ground before you need to divide? Three years?
In reply to I’m in California—how many
 by Lali msly (not verified)
Lucky you. In your moderate climate, it’s easy to just let Dahlia tubers stay in the ground year-round. However, dividing your dahlias will result in more flowers. It’s best to go by signs that a plant may need dividing:
‱ A doughnut-type hole in the center of a plant forms as older portions die
‱ Lots of foliage but not many flowers
‱ Stunted growth
‱ Yellowish leaves
Have you ever had success planting them early in pots for an early forced bloom? I have a wedding in early June.
In reply to Have you ever had success
 by Becky (not verified)
I have! I live in Minnesota and started them in pots in our heated garage in March-April. I didn't know if it would work because they looked like prunes, but almost all of them sprouted. It was very satisfying :)
I planted them outside in the ground in early June.
Good Luck :)
In reply to Have you ever had success
 by Becky (not verified)
Anyone, anyone? We here at the Almanac have not tried planting/forcing dahlias early. However, the American Dahlia Society has! See the web site, https://www.dahlia.org/growing/fundamentals-of-growing-dahlias/#:~:text=If%20you%20want%20blooms%20as,most%20parts%20of%20the%20country, with this specific observation: If you want blooms as early as possible, you can start the tubers indoors (fig 4)
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