Door Brands: Masonite, Thermatru, Larson, Taylor 6 Panel Pine Doors 4 5/8 Pine Veneer Jamb w/ stop and door knob bored, 3 hinges per door We can order several different styles of Masonite interior doors! 9 lite - 2 panel bottom 1 lite - 2 panel bottom Sunburst - 4 panel bottom Copanel - No glass 4 5/8 Primed Jambs, inswing, grilles between glass We can order a full line of Masonite exterior door styles! We usually have 20-25 exterior doors and 60-70 interior doors in stock! 5. Patio Storm Doors We can also order parts and accessories to fit these doors! Custom Sizes are available! Several options to choose from! Stop in our store or look online! New Construction 7700 Series Pre-Hung Door From Parts A 24" wide solid wood door is ripped narrower and hinge pockets are routed with a guide template and template bushing. The door is mounted on the jambs and held together with braces. 3-4 (Moderate to Advanced)
In our double-bathroom remodel project we were faced with a minor challenge. We wanted to keep some form of adjoining door, similar to what the previous owner had installed when they first converted the bedroom to bathrooms. our revised floor plan, there was minimal room for a door, onlySo we purchased a 24 inch wide solid wood 6-panel door, with the intent of ripping it narrower, once the exact dimensions of the opening were known. We knew there was no way we could rely on cutting 2 inches from a hollow-core door... they often only have about 1 inch of side rail material. As the title suggests, the essence of this job is creating a pre-hung door from readily available materials. This is the door rough opening. because it is narrow... only 24 inches. The raw materials, from left to right: The 6-panel solid door, the door jambs, the colonial door stopThe door has just been ripped narrower, by cutting 1 inch from each side, on a table saw.
A close-up view of the top ends of the sideThese are sold as single boards, about 82" long, with this rabbet cut into the top end. These jambs are actually veneer-covered plywood. people call this engineered lumber.) should be very stable and not be prone to warping orJamb material is normally 5/8" thick. jambs were 4 - 9/16" inches wide... just right for a 2x4 wall with 1/2" drywall on each side. This is a close-up of the colonial door stop trim, purchased by the lineal foot from the local Home Depot. The edges of the door were quite rough from the sawing operation, so we sanded the edges down with a beltThis took about 3 minutes. The door is held in a custom fixture that we made. the edge of a door is a major pain in the rear unless the door is held firmly... on edge. Then we finish-sanded the edges with a fine-grit The basic Black & Decker router. economical power tool has come in handy many times.
And the best thing about this B&D router... it accepts template guide bushings made by Porter Cable ($30 at The Ho' Depot). The Porter Cable guide bushings have a knurled locking ring that clamps the steel bushing into place. The guide bushing rubs against the metal guide plate... and prevents the router bit from from hitting the guide (which would surely destroy the bit). It sounds like a lot of trouble, but it The Porter Cable bushing set has 7 differentThese devices are necessary for projects such as routing letters and signs. The other product used here is a Butt Hinge Template set from Sears. This $8 set includes a template for 4" hinges (typically for exterior doors) and a template for 3-1/2" hinges (for interior doors), which is the one For the top hinge, we made a mark 5-1/2" below the door's top. For the bottom hinge we made a mark 9-1/2" above the bottom of the door. The template is set against the door edge (the
hinge pin goes on the same side as my hand) with the lower edge of the steel against the pencil mark. Note the little notch in the steel, right above my pinky... this 1/8" deep notch serves a purpose... for helping to layout the hinge position on the door jamb. the product's instructions is crucial here. This is kind of hard to explain, even with pictures. We attached the template with pan-head sheetThe instructions recommend nails... but they never worked for me, the wood grain diverts the nail and the template ends up crooked. Setting the cutting tool depth: We placed both hinges on top of the template and sat the router on top of that. Then we positioned the cutting bit so it was just touching the wood... And away we go. This is easy, just turn the power on and swish the router around inside the confines of That was quick, maybe a minute. The black marks on the wood are burn marks. bit was really dull (I know what you're thinking... just
so we stopped to sharpen it. actually cut the wood, and left no burn marks. Before the template is removed: We measured from the top of the door to the bottom of the notch. This will be the measurement used to lay out the template on the jamb. This measurement is taken for each hinge, always from the top of the door to the bottom of the notch. The routed hinge pocket. Remember that this can be done with just a chisel and hammer, but that is a chore, and it often leaves an uneven surface, which puts the hinge out of alignment, and causes too much grief. I will never go back to the old We used a 1 inch chisel to remove the rounded Here's another "must have" tool. tool is called a Vix bit. It is a drill bit inside aThe guide is tapered and fits into the conical hole of the hinges. Just drill and push and the hinge holes are aligned perfectly. Here's a little demonstration. pokes through the hole in the hinge, while the guide keeps it
The Vix bit really helps give professional results, andThis tool was bought at Sears, in a kit with some other gadgets, for about $20. Other stores and catalogs carry The template was laid out on the jamb. The measurements we took above (before removing the templates) are marked on the jamb, measured from the edge of the rabbet (where the finished surface ends, not the end of the board) Then, the normal edge of the template (not the notch) is laid against the pencil mark.This results in the hinge being 1/8" lower on the jamb than on the door... which means that the assembled unit has a 1/8" gap between the top jamb and the top of the door... which is WHAT YOU WANT. this rigmarole, you would end up taking the door off the hinges and sanding or planing the top to create a little one-eighth-inch gap. Can you say H-A-S-S-L-E ? The hinges were installed on the door... ... and then the jamb was held in place and the hinges
Luckily, our work was accurate enough that only a minor adjustment in one hinge pocket was required, which was done with a knife. The top jamb was cut to length (the door width, 22", plus 1/4" for the two side gaps, plus the Then the side was nailed into the top with a couple of The striker-side jamb was also nailed to theWe kept the door off the floor with some blocks of wood, so the protruding hinges would not get in the way. We also drove in some 2" deck screws to hold the jambs together. Then we cut the colonial door stop trim (the top joints are beveled, which was done on a power miter saw) and fastened them with 1" brads. We used scraps of cardboard to provide a small gap between the door and stop. the stop trim will fit too tightly and the paint will rub off. This is really only necessary on the hinge side.) Finally, we tacked a couple of scraps of lumber across the jambs, to hold everything together.