4 German

4 German
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Home » Articles » German Numbers: Learn To Count From 0 to 1,000 in German
Full disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. ?
Full disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. ?
Do you want to learn how to count from 0-100 in German, and find out more about German numbers?
In this article, I want to share with you how to learn, remember, and use German numbers with you.
Let’s start with the basics. Below is a table of the German numbers from zero to 100. Take a few minutes read through it, then I’ll give you some tips to help you remember it all:
Seeing it all in one big block can be a little overwhelming, right? Well, don’t worry. Using the simple tips and language hacks below, you’ll be able to remember all of this information with little effort.
There are no rules for these numbers – though I’ll share a simple trick for memorising them later in the article. And it is important to remember these numbers, as they occur, in one form or another, in every number you’ll use when counting.
For example, just as “eight” is in “ eight een”, “twenty- eight ”, “ eight y” and “ eight hundred”, the same can be said for acht (“eight”) in German. “ Acht zehn”, “ acht undzwanzig”,” acht zig” and “ acht hundert”.
Elf (“eleven”) and zwölf (“twelve”) also don’t follow a pattern. You’ll just have to learn these by heart.
For the other German numbers between 13 and 19 you take the first four letters of the number between three and nine (like the rule above) and add the word zehn or ten at the end: dreizehn (“thirteen”), vierzehn (“fourteen”), fünfzehn (“fifteen”), and so on.
Between forty and ninety, all of these numbers are regular. They take the first four letters of the number between one and ten and add the word “zig” to the end of it.
Vier_zig_ (“forty”), fünfzig (“fifty”), sechzig (“sixty”), siebzig (“seventy”), achtzig (“eighty”), neunzig (“ninety”).
Twenty and thirty are exceptions. Twenty takes the form zwanzig , and thirty is dreiiβig .
Once you’ve learned all of these you can begin to fill in the numbers with a simple formula.
All of the numbers larger than twenty follow the same pattern. The second number is said at the start. Let me explain that a bit more:
This swapping around can take some getting used to so take some time to practice them. When it comes to writing these, many German children are taught to write the second number first, the same way as when it’s spoken, then place the first number before it.
Practicing this may help you understand it too.
By using these tips and language hacks you should have no trouble mastering the German numbers 1 to 100.
The number one in German is the only number that needs to be modified.
In English, we have three words for “one”. We have the number one itself, or we use “a” or “an” to express we only have one of something.
In German these three words are expressed using variations of ein and eins .
When you’re counting the quantity of something – like how many people are in a group – you’ll always use the “eins” form of the word, which is the number one itself, as you can see in the table at the start of this article.
However when you’re referring to anything else you’ll use the “ein” form of the word and its case-based variations. Such as:
Explaining each of these in-depth is a little beyond the scope of this article. But remember that when you’re counting, you use numbers. When you’re talking to someone, you’ll use ein and its variations.
Other numbers like “two” in German or “three” in German don’t need to be modified and stay the same throughout.
The rule for counting in the hundreds is exactly the same as in English. You take the number from one to nine and add the word hundert (“hundred”) to the end of it.
Here’s a table to show you what I mean:
Filling in the gaps between these numbers is relatively simple too. There are just a few things to remember:
These rules apply throughout all the hundreds.
You’ve already learned the hardest parts of counting in German. From here on out it’s so similar to English you don’t need to remember much.
The word for thousand in German is tausend , which is said like you’re saying the English word “thousands” in a German accent.
Then the thousands themselves follow work the same as you just saw in the 100’s, but with the word tausend added to the end:
When you start adding hundreds into the mix, the rules of the 100’s you just read still apply. You only change the two-digit number – like 43 – around, the rest go in order.
For the numbers in the 10,000’s you’re going to follow the two-digit number rules. In succession, these numbers follow on in multiples of ten: zehntausend , zwanzigtausend , dreiβigtausend and so on.
When the numbers change to have a second digit, like 87, this would then become siebenundachtzigtausend (“seven and eighty-thousand”). This can become quite a mouthful when the number is 87,787 which would be siebenundachtzigtausendsiebenhundertsiebenundachtzig .
When you reach the 100,000’s you can then apply the rules for this, but with 100’s numbers. So 100,000 would be hunderttausend , 200,000 would be zweihunderttausend , 300,000 would be dreihunderttausend , and so on.
Here are the terminologies for numbers when you count higher than that:
You may be looking at all of these numbers right now and thinking, “How in the world am I ever going to remember all of this?”. But don’t worry, I’ve got you covered.
There are a few number words in German that you can simply remember as the English form and translate. For example:
But how do you remember the trickier, German-sounding words?
Well, one of my favourite ways to remember numbers is mnemonics . These are attachments you make to a word to help you recall it. It can be a funny sentence, a visualistion, a play on the word or anything that helps you remember.
Well here are a few of my favourites from my time learning German:
The more ridiculous, the better! Don’t censor yourself when trying to do this, these are to help you remember, not somebody else.
For more language hacks, check out the Language Hacking Podcast, where hosts Benny, Shannon, and Elizabeth discuss language learning and language hacks with guests from all over the world.
Where do German numbers come from? They’re part of a branch of the language family tree called Germanic. This branch sprouts off into languages like English, Dutch and Swedish.
In fact, if you look at the major European Germanic languages side by side, you can see a lot of similarities in their spellings and pronunciations (pay close attention to the number six):
If you look back to old high German which was spoken between the years 700 and 1050, you can see how some of their similarities have carried on through time too:
There are lots of similarities between English numbers and German numbers, and once you get used to swapping two-digit numbers around, it becomes really simple.
Once you learn your German numbers from 1-10, the rest starts to fall into place.
Original article by James Johnson, updated by the Fluent in 3 Months team.
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German Numbers – Counting in German up to 999,999
German numbers | How to count in German (1 to 999,999)
Let’s listen to the numbers in German, starting with one in German
Calculate with the German numbers 1 to 5
Today you will learn the German numbers 1 up to 999,999.
No need to learn all numbers by heart ❌ There’s a system.
Counting in German is easy if you do it right!
Listen to the numbers in German 12345 and also the 4 vocabulary words you need for the exercise further down the page.
But don’t worry, you don’t need to learn all German numbers up to 999,999 by heart. If you see the pattern you are able to continue the series of numbers by yourself.
By the way, usually we don’t write numbers in words . We write one to ten in words, then we write just numbers 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 …
Please also note that in some cases the g at the end of a word sounds rather like a ch especially when the word ends with ig .
= neunhundertneunundneunzigtausendneunhundertneunundneunzig
Now you will learn how to calculate in German.
Don’t worry, it is not that difficult.
Have you listened to the vocabulary words from the top of the page? Now you need them. Try to answer the questions out loud.
Frage: Was ist eins und eins? (1 + 1)
Lange Antwort: Eins und eins ist zwei.
Was ist eins plus zwei? (1 + 2) Drei Eins plus zwei ist drei.
Was ist vier minus drei? (4 – 3) Eins Vier minus drei ist eins.
Was ist fünf minus eins? (5 – 1) Vier Fünf minus eins ist vier. Oder: Fünf minus eins ist gleich vier.
Und was ist drei plus zwei? (3 + 2) Fünf Drei plus zwei ist gleich fünf.
Was ist 789621598 + 45968521255? Ich mache nur Spaß! Just kidding.
I know that the use of the comma and the period in German numbers often leads to confusion. You just have to remember the following:
In German we use the comma as the decimal separator and the period as the thousands separator .
In Germany it is in contrast to e.g. England. In England you write it the other way around.
Here you can learn the German punctuation .
Es spielt keine Rolle, wie langsam du gehst, solange du nicht aufhörst.
= It does not matter how slowly you go as long as you do not stop.
You can learn much more than just counting in German if you want. My subscribers get step-by-step access to many more lessons.
Hi, my name is Lucas Kern from Germany. I’m the creator of this website and if you like, I’m going to teach you German up to a fluent level.

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In pursuit of practical marksmanship.
There are lots of whiz bang reticles on the market, but one of the revelations I had about a year ago is how important the “old time” German #4 and similar designs are. I have owned a variety of optics over the years… all with different levels of quality and reticles, but after obtaining the Velocity with its free floating German #4 style reticle, it completely blew me away with its versatility.
As an all around reticle, the G #4 is the bomb. One thing that now irks me with other reticle designs is the small, thin reticle itself. Some of the design philosophy of modern optic manufacturers is either to make a big bold reticle design such as a horse-shoe, and then thin out the smaller parts of the reticle for longer range precision, while others follow a form where the center dot illumination takes priority over a very thin reticle which is about useless without the illumination.
Take a quick look at this demo video of a Schmidt & Bender 1-8 short dot. Really expensive and cool. Red dot bright center illumination (which is off for this video) and a uselessly thin reticle.
That’s crap right there folks. If your illumination dies, so too does your ability to use that reticle in dark, shadowy environments like the woods… and it becomes even harder to use at night . That is a poor reticle design for any defensive optic. As quality as the rest of the optic may be, this is a big fail point right there in my opinion.
Here it is in the dark with a tactical light from a post on optics talk:
With the red dot on this optic has no problems, but lose that dot to damage or battery failure, and the thin reticle becomes a hinderance to solid low light shooting.
We added some design cues from the G4 reticle. Much easier to use with a weapon light. Now we can bracket the target quickly when using a weapon light even without reticle illumination. This is an old photo and today’s weapon lights are much hotter, offering even more contrast between a G#4 reticle and the target.
Let’s take a look at the ACOG TA01 which has a German #4 Inspired reticle:
TA01 ACOG with Tritium illumination only. Nice and bright, easy to alight with target.
TA01 ACOG with Full target illumination. Even though the center of the reticle has dissapeared, the thick cross bars allow easy visualization and centering of the target. Cross-hairs DONE Right!
So you can see, in dense foliage, or at night, thin reticle designs suck if the battery goes dead. As we become more comfortable with battery powered optics, perhaps this concern will continue to diminish as products continue to gain in reliability, but reticles with a design that offers a “backup” against dead electronics are still important. To be fair, these examples aren’t the highest resolution pictures, but the concept is still present… small, hard to find, thin reticles are a poor design choice in a all around optic.
Even the venerable ACOG suffers from this as well:
The fiber optic certainly eliminates the need for batteries, but when looking from indoors to outdoors, you have a tiny, black reticle that can be hard to quickly acquire. This needs some crossbars.
From indoors to outdoors this ACOG suffers from a distinct lack of German #4 thick cross bars. Integrating them into the optic would allow the shooter to bracket the target when the fine details of the very thin standard reticle are lost.
Here we added some additional contrast in the form of G4 style crossbars. As you can see, in differing lighting conditions it makes sense that an optic should have multiple inherant design considerations to maximize your ability to hit the target in varying conditions.
In the above example, we assist the washed out ACOG reticle with some crossbars. When lighting conditions are dim and the illuminated reticle doesn’t catch enough light to POP, the black crossbars add additional contrast to the sight picture which allows good target bracketing and guides the eye to the center of the reticle. In this example, the BDC should still be usable. If you shined the weapon Light and created a hotspot, the fiber optic illumination would wash out and the best bet for fast target acquisition would be the thick crossbars.
The old time G4 style reticle… adapted into numerous iterations, it features a fine center crosshair and three bold lines at 3, 6, and 9. It’s an iconic reticle used in movies, by hunters, and it should be utilized by the AR15 community as well, but it is often passed over for “newer” designs that don’t always do it better.
The Atibal Velocity made me a believer. I didn’t know what I didn’t know, and now I know. Sold my tiny, hard to see, red triangle Trijicon TA47 and I LIKED that optic, but it failed when running a weapon light or from indoors to outdoors. I would however, buy another one with the G4 style crosshair reticle.
So what does the G4 reticle do so well? The contrast of those bold lines allow you to bracket your target in changing lighting conditions and background colors. Having such a large filled reticle area helps capture the eye and while the fine center lines may be lost in darker woods, the bold crosshairs will always present the highest level of contrast to anything other than a pitch black target / background. The thin crosshairs will allow you the precision you need for solid shooting when you can settle into the optic. Illumination via weaponlight gives you nice black crossbars that let you bracket the target quickly.
The Velocity’s illumination isn’t quite daylight bright, but the German #4 helped me stay fast on target by allowing quick target bracketing with the cross bars.
So I hope I made a somewhat convincing argument for traditional crosshair G4 style reticles. Think of the thick crossbars as a backup for unique lighting conditions where illuminated reticles may have washed our or batteries fail. Many of the optics coming to the market continue to eschew the traditinal reticle design for very spartan and hard to see reticle designs, and they lean heavily on illumination to make the reticle catch the eye. While optics have come a long way in terms of the technology inside the tube, not every design has been an improvement over traditional heavy woods G #4 style reticles. Imagine having a short dot (exampled above) on low illumination while roaming around a dark area, and then needing to splash the target with your 600 lumen weapon light for proper ID. You just washed out your illumination . Incorporating some of the design elements of the G4 reticle would improve many of the existing reticle designs which feature thin, hard to find reticles.
I hope you keep some of the above in mind when choosing a do all optic. Many of us will go through a variety of products before finally settling on a design that works for us, and I hope to save some readers the money I wasted on thousands of dollars of optics to come to this conclusion.
On a special note, Atibal will be releasing a 1-6 Japanese optic with some of the design considerations mentioned above. We had a nice conversation on the utility of optics certain optics on the market, and I believe we both made some headway into a reticle design which will aid your shooting in many scenarios. I can’t wait to see the final product and appreciate Jimmy receiving my input.
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Great article on the importance of legible reticle sans batteries.
Care to note some 1×4’s with the G4?
Nikon Monarch 1-4
Atibal Velox 1-4
Leupold vx- t 1.25-4
Just a few off the top of my he
Heid Klum Nude
Elle Flynn Porn
Vyawesome

4 German

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