Foam Types: All Conventional Foam Sizes: Standard and customized sizes availableHeights: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 inches Conventional foam mattresses are great for people who desire all-around comfort while still wanting proper support. The softness provides relief and alleviates pressure but maintains a firmness that supplies proper body support. Specific product capabilities are dependent on the foam type(s) and additional options selected during mattress customization. Custom foam mattresses are foam only.Covers may be purchased under Mattress Accessories. Select your mattress size above Please enter dimensions in INCHES Please round fractional dimensions up to the next whole inch to ensure that the mattress is large enough for the expected area Do NOT reduce dimensions to compensate for Dacron fiberfill wrap addition Click "Continue" for a price quote Custom-cut mattress foam has a dimensional tolerance of 1-1/2" for length and width, and 1/2" for thickness.
The largest solid mattress size available is 76" x 82", and the largest solid mattress thickness available is 6". When a mattress is ordered larger than one or more of those dimensions, it will be made from two pieces of foam that are glued together. There are no additional gluing charges for oversized mattresses.Edit ArticleHow to Build a Wooden Bed Frame Three Methods:Standard Queen BedPlatform BedTwin Size Captain's BedCommunity Q&A Do you have a rickety metal bed frame? Or maybe you keep your mattress on the floor with no frame at all. Have you considered getting a wooden bed frame? It can add a wonderful appeal to your room, and it will get rid of those annoying squeaky metal parts. But keep in mind, they aren't cheap. Here's a simple plan to build your own wooden bed frame that can be modified to any size (or height!) you want. Purchase all the gear you need. See the "Things You'll Need" list below for specific details. The goal is to build a frame that will fit a queen-size mattress (60" wide x 80" long).
Beyond that, you'll need to visit your local home improvement warehouse to acquire three basic things: Mount the bed rail hangers. This hardware is essential in forming a rigid connection between all the bed rails in the frame. Secure the bed rail hangers to the end of the side-rail and head post. Double check that each placement is consistent. Repeat the process for all corners. These hangers can sometimes be hard to find in hardware stores. If so, check online retailers. Bed rail hangers are usually sold 4 sets to a package. In the place of bed rail hangers, you can use 8 long lag bolts. When tightened, the lag bolts make the bed very solid. Lag bolts are also much easier to find than bed rail hangers. Attach the support rails. Create the support blocks. Attach the support blocks. Add the support beams. Insert your plywood mattress surface. Gather your materials and supplies. You'll need a circular saw, a number of basic L brackets, 3" decking screws, some MDF or plywood, and then several cuts of lumber.
For lumber, you'll need: Two pieces of 85" 2x4 Five pieces of 67" 2x4 Eight pieces of 19 3/8 2x4 Two pieces of 75" 2x12 Four pieces of 57" 2x12 Create the base frame. Add the base bracers. Create the platform frame. Add the platform bracers. Add the platform supports. Reinforce the corners and joints. Add the plywood surface.You'll need two Ikea Expedit bookshelves (the 2x4 square size), several feet of velcro, a saw, decking screws, 24 basic L brackets with mounting screws, and lumber in the following cuts: Four 38" pieces of 2x10 Six 28" pieces of 2x10 Four 16 & 3/4" pieces of 1x10 Create the end boxes. Add the center brace. Add in shelves if desired. Add a backing to the end shelves. Add feet to the end shelves. Paint all four bookcases to match. Attach the plywood to the end shelves. Cut a piece of plywood to be 38"x75". With both shelves facing outward and the Expedit shelves dry fit between them, nail the plywood into place by driving two nails through the plywood and into the top of the sides of the end shelves.
You can glue on a non-slip mat, like the ones which go under carpets, if you want to. Adjust the Expedit shelves as necessary.Ikea makes several useful inserts for Expedit shelves. You can add baskets, pull out drawers, or just basic doors, and all come in a variety of colors. Enjoy your new bed! This bed should be used by a child only, as it cannot support extreme weights. Adjust the wood choice for your corners, and you could have a gorgeous four poster bed! (larger diameter, turned posts are all you would need to change to make this bed frame into something amazing.) Sand any rough edges to make the bed frame smooth. Drill pilot holes before screwing any pieces together. Stain the wood using a color you like for an extra nice look.You May Also Like Drift away into a deep sleep with a mattress topper that adds extra comfort to your mattress! If you are ready to get a good night’s sleep, consider a mattress pad for your mattress. A mattress pad can do wonders for for an older mattress that is lacking softness that you want.
Maybe your mattress is too hot? A mattress topper can help to keep you cooler throughout the night for optimal sleep. Never worry about counting sheep again! Purchase a mattress topper from our trusted Serta brand and you will feel like you are sleeping on clouds. Save money and sleep better on a mattress pad tonight!Which is the Best Mattress of 2017? Project plans include dimensions for a twin-, full-, queen-, or king-size mattress (no need for box springs with this platform bed). Size your bed from one of two plan options. For the queen or king size, use Plan Set 1. For a twin or full size, use Plan Set 2. Queen-and king-size beds require a center divider in the end case and longer side cases to support the larger mattress. For a light wood option, substitute birch plywood and edge tape for all of the plywood parts, and replace oak with maple or poplar. Or paint it to coordinate with your bedroom colors. To add a modern twist, use MDF (medium density fiberboard) with no edge tape, and apply a clear polyurethane finish.
You can also choose a variety of stain colors or apply a clear finish to the oak. Cut the 3/4-inch plywood into smaller sections to create the side-case bottoms/tops (A), dividers (B), side backs (C), end-case top/bottom (D), and the end-case back (E) (Project Diagram, Cutting Diagram and Cutting List). If you are building the queen- or king-size bed, there is an extra divider, and it’s used in the end case. Good to KnowEach size bed has a different Cutting List and Cutting Diagram. These photos and instructions are for a queen size; included in these instructions are the variations to build full and twin sizes. Align the ends of the tops (A) and the bottom panels (A) of the side cases on sawhorses and lay out the divider locations. A framing square will help transfer the marks onto both plywood sheets to ensure proper alignment during assembly. Several plywood edges on the tops/bottoms (A) and dividers (B) will be exposed in the final project and need to be covered with a veneer edge tape (Project Diagram, Drawing 1) to create a finished look.
After marking the edges that need to be covered, cut veneer tape pieces an inch longer than those edges. Use a household iron, on the cotton setting, to activate the glue, and press the veneer into position on the edges of the panels. A piece of painter’s tape can secure the veneer until you activate the adhesive. Allow the veneer tape to cool for a few minutes, trim the edges with a utility knife, and sand the panels and edging. A sanding sponge creates a softened edge on the veneer to reduce any sharp edges. A random-orbit sander with 180-grit sandpaper smooths the plywood panels. Apply glue to a divider (B), position it against the bottom (A), and clamp in position (Project Diagram, Drawing 1). Each divider will be secured with three screws and glue. To ensure a square assembly, drill a countersunk pilot hole and drive a screw 1 inch from the front edge of the panel, and then use a square to ensure the dividers are 90 degrees to the front edge of the bottom (A); secure with the remaining two screws.
Repeat for the other dividers. Glue and screw the top (A) to the case (Project Diagram, Drawing 1). Secure the side back (C) to the dividers and top/bottom (A) using screws but no glue (when finishing the case it will be easier to remove the back to access the inside of the case). The case back attaches flush to the headboard and one end of the case; the remaining opening near the foot of the bed is covered by the end case. When the first case is complete, assemble the second side case and then build the end case using these same steps. Headboard and Mattress Support Cut the headboard panel (F), stiles (G), and rail (H) to size (Project Diagram, Cutting Diagram and Cutting List) and assemble using glue and screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 2). Cut the 2-inch-wide veneer edging and iron in place on the headboard. Trim and sand away the excess. Trim the veneer with a utility knife after the glue cools and sand the assembled headboard smooth. Cut the side rails (I) and end rail (J) to length and sand smooth (Project Diagram, Cutting Diagram and Cutting List).
Cut the side supports (K) from 2 x 4s, the slats (L) from 1 x 4s, and the platform (M) from 3/4-inch-thick plywood (Project Diagram, Cutting Diagram and Cutting List). The plywood needs no edging, and the parts do not require a finish. Good to KnowFor a twin-size bed, no slats are needed under the platform. For a king-size bed, you’ll need two platform pieces to cover the larger opening. Remove the case backs from the base cabinets and apply the stain of your choice to these parts, then stain the headboard assembly and the rails. After the stain dries, apply three coats of satin polyurethane. After each coat cures, sand the clear finish with a 320-grit sanding sponge, wipe with a tack cloth, and apply the next coat. When the final coat cures, reinstall the case backs. Apply the side supports (K) to the back of the side cases (Project Diagram, Drawing 3) -- the top edge of the 2 x 4s should be 1 1/2 inches below the top of the cases and flush with each end of the case side backs (C).
For the twin-size bed, the slats will not be used; position the side supports 3/4 inch below the top edge of the case. Add the side rails (I) to the side cases. The rails should be flush on the headboard end of the cases and overhang the side and footboard end of the cases by 1/2 inch. Move the components into the bedroom and position the cases at the bed location about a foot from the wall. Slip the headboard into position so it extends 1 inch beyond the side cases and 1/2 inch beyond the side rails (I) (Project Diagram, Drawing 4). Drill two 3/8-inch holes through the side case dividers (B) and the headboard assembly. Connect the headboard using 1/4-20 connector bolts and nuts tightened using two Allen wrenches. Tightening the connector bolts will square the bed assembly. Install the end rail across the foot of the bed between the side rails so it overhangs the end of the bed by 1/2 inch (Project Diagram, Drawing 4). Rest evenly spaced slats (L) on the side supports and place the platform (M) on the slats (Project Diagram, Drawing 4).