2022 Vintage
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2022 Vintage
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As the industry strives to become more sustainable, vintage is edging towards the top of the shopping agenda. “It just makes sense,” says Shrimpton Couture’s Cherie Balch, who believes that fashion’s current lust for making the old new again is not just a flash-in-the-pan affair. While adopting a greener mindset, consumers have fallen for the romance of archival looks. “There’s just something about vintage pieces that is extra special,” explains Balch, who counts Rihanna and Tracee Ellis Ross as customers. “They have a little bit of magic in them and you just can’t walk away.”
While 2021 saw the Noughties dominate vintage shopping headlines, this year sees a shift towards pieces that will transcend trends. Investment buying is top priority, with fashion fans sharpening their elbows to score rare collectibles, exquisite couture and statement jewellery that can be customised and made even more unique. The smartest shoppers are even paying it forward, and snapping up popular gems by current designers who will become the equivalent of John Galliano-era Dior in decades to come.
Here, the world’s top vintage sellers share the one-of-a-kind pieces of fashion history to keep an eye out for this year; as Cherie puts it: “the things that if you walk into a modern retail store you just cannot even hope to see on the racks.”
Galliano’s Dior stole hearts last year, but archive hunters are now trawling for any vintage Dior, according to Balch. Why the popularity contest? “I think there’s a real love-hate relationship happening at the moment with modern Dior, so for a lot of people that means going back to the past and looking for the pieces they loved then and still love now,” explains Cherie. At Time’s Up, the Copenhagen emporium frequented by Naomi Campbell, Lady Gaga and Jane Birkin, founder Jesper Richardy is expecting a renaissance of Nicolas Ghesquière’s Balenciaga and mid ’00s Rick Owens, while Roberto Cavalli’s Noughties signatures are the hot tickets on Depop.
“Cavalli was ahead of his time in using fabrics that flatter a lot of different sizes; I think the dresses will prove to be in demand for a long time to come,” says Clare O’Donnell of Depop platform @edenvintage_ , who is stocking up on the brand’s nostalgic runway prints, including the chinoiserie and amour tattoo motifs. Clever current creative director Fausto Puglisi at Cavalli is capitalising on the rising interest in old-school brand insignia, and bringing back the iconic autumn/winter 2000 tiger pattern for spring/summer 2022. “These original prints will be a good investment as the market always spikes when archive pieces are reintroduced on the runway,” continues O’Donnell, who expects Kylie Jenner, Zendaya and Bella Hadid’s love of Cavalli to help drive demand. “If you act quickly, you can snag one of the dresses before the prices start to rise!”
Keep your eyes on fashion’s musical chairs, too. “When an iconic designer leaves a house, we always see interest accelerate, as customers want to get hold of that designer’s last collection,” comments Hattie Hawksworth, editor-in-chief at Farfetch, which runs a successful pre-owned division. Snap up Daniel Lee’s final work for Bottega Veneta while you can.
Rihanna wearing John Galliano for Dior autumn/winter 2000.
If you’ve been lusting after a Chanel bag forever, make 2022 the year you bring that plush quilting home. “After several price increases in the past 12 months, the double flap bag is soon going to be on par with the Hermès Kelly in terms of price,” says Rewind Vintage Affairs Limited founder and CEO, Claudia Ricco. And “impossible to buy”.
Hawksworth is currently weighing up her own Chanel handbag quandary: “classic or statement?”, and says Farfetchers are making good use of the etailer’s Donate service, whereby they can sell their pre-loved goods for store credit to help soften the blow of their big-ticket archive buys. “It’s a cliché, but I really think we’re seeing a return to traditional luxury pieces; those truly indulgent, once-in-a-lifetime purchases,” says Hattie, adding that Bulgari’s Serpenti watch is also currently on her own archive wish list.
But what about the new classics? Ricco’s background as a luxury vintage expert with a 20-year-old eco-fashion obsessed daughter makes her well placed to predict the current designers who will stand the test of time in a crowded market. “Newer or up-and-coming sustainable brands will definitely become part of the future vintage space [because] younger consumers are buying very differently,” explains Claudia, who is putting her money on Jacquemus being successful later down the line.
Archive aficionados who have long loved the thrill of the chase and that dopamine rush of an eBay buy hitting the doorstep are moving on from vintage fashion and into the realm of couture. “It’s the pinnacle of fashion and there are still pieces to be found at every budget level if you really hunt,” says Ricco, who notes Gripoix, YSL and Chanel are her most requested labels. “When you do find them, it is just an amazing thing to hold a piece of history in your hands and see the workmanship and level of construction that was put into it. You know that you’re holding something that very few people can have access to in our modern world.”
Bella Hadid wearing Roberto Cavalli spring/summer 2005.
Likewise, scarcity is going to become a buzzword in the vintage sphere. Sophie Quy, vice president of brands at Threads Styling, says the personal shopping platform has seen a sharp increase in clients requesting one-off personalised accessories, while Ricco shares that she’s searching for unique collectibles by brands, including Maison Martin Margiela, Mugler and Comme Des Garçons, which major in unusual fashion-cum-art pieces with cult followings. “While fashion is generally becoming increasingly homogeneous globally with no room for local brands, there is an opportunity in vintage fashion to find truly special pieces that will last,” asserts Richardy.
Miley Cyrus wearing Dior autumn/winter 2003.
“It is well known that jewellery by well-known names tends to best hold and even increase its value,” says Depop’s O’Donnell, who is always on the lookout for iconic pieces by Christian Lacroix and Chanel. “Bold costume jewellery has made a huge comeback thanks to Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli so I think we can expect to see the prices increase this year.” At Rewind Vintage Affairs Limited, it’s all about ’80s and ’90s couture jewellery, while at Threads Styling, requests for bespoke watches have increased by over 100 per cent in the last year alone.
If your style is less Chanel and more TikTok, then Penny Lane is the muse to know, according to the Depop gang. Selena Williams of @selenashop is betting big on the ’70s coats worn by rock chicks, like Kate Hudson’s character in 2000 film Almost Famous , and their ’90s reproductions.
Elsewhere, Charley Keighley of @_kitten________ believes “Dad” is the word for 2022. “XL blazers and low, slouchy suiting; either worn super androgynously or pared back, is a trend that by its very nature endorses sustainable style,” explains Keighley. “It’s encouraging us to raid our Dad’s/ boyfriend’s wardrobes to repurpose an item that already exists in the world and make it our own.” No matter if you can’t afford couture, there’s something for everyone this year.
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From secondhand Chanel to bright colors and abstract prints.
While prepping our 2022 wardrobes may involve finding out what trends and styles will be big in the coming seasons, what’s popular in the world of vintage shopping could be something entirely different. Thrilling , the online marketplace that stocks some of the best vintage shops’ finds from across the country, took on the task of finding that out for the new year, along with its newly released Year In Review for 2021 .
“We felt like it was really important to put a report out that explains the differences between what we’re seeing in trends in the vintage world, versus what you’re seeing in more of your departments or runway fashion shows,” Brittany Cohen, Thrilling’s Senior Director of Fashion, tells NYLON. The team gathered data from the site, boasting inventory from 700 vintage stores, including search data and sales performance, to help determine what vintage fashion trends took over 2021 and what could have the potential of being big in 2022.
But figuring out what the future holds for vintage shopping goes beyond just online statistics. Jennifer Jefferson, Thrilling’s Director of Content, also notes that being in constant communication with their vast network of sellers and collectors, as well as their community across social media, has helped inform their predictions.
“We’re getting feedback all the time; people looking for unique things, looking for very specific kinds of trends.” says Jefferson. “We really took a look at what everyone was searching for, if they weren't talking directly to us, as well as what people were asking for in our DMs, over emails, and with our personal shoppers.”
Ahead, Jefferson breaks down Thrilling’s top five vintage fashion trend predictions for 2022 and what everyone could be secondhand shopping for over the next 12 months. Read on for more.
With Chanel handbag prices on the rise and limited inventory , Jefferson sees shoppers turning to secondhand retailers to try and cop something from the French fashion house.
“I don’t think that people will ever stop shopping luxury, I just think that they are engaging with it in new ways,” she adds. “Because of the supply chain being so sporadic, we just never know what’s happening with it, which means that the availability of goods has decreased. I think that we are going to find, as production levels are lower and prices go up, that people are going to look and shop luxury in new ways. We are really excited to see that. Our number one search right now is for Chanel.”
So while getting a brand spanking new Chanel item might be more difficult than before, there’s plenty of options to choose from if you scour the right vintage shops. You might even get a good deal while you’re at it, too.
Thrilling noticed its shoppers buying American brands the most through 2021, from Gunne Sax dresses to Levi’s jeans, as well as vintage Coach, Liz Claiborne, and Banana Republic . With secondhand shopping continuing to become the norm (and sometimes as an alternative to buying fast fashion), the retailer believes that the demand for these local names will only increase in the new year.
“Based on the people that were shopping with us, they were falling in love with Americana again, which is super nice to see,” says Jefferson. “There’s such a hierarchy, I believe, in fashion, where it has to be expensive and it has to be designer to matter. Our shoppers are saying that it just has to be good. People are choosing their wardrobe based on their individuality and personal expression — not necessarily based on who’s on the tag, in a traditional sense.”
Corsets and bras as going-out tops has transformed the way we think of (and show off) lingerie, and Thrilling sees the potential of this category’s growth in the vintage space. “Shoppers are thinking of [lingerie] as a fashion choice, as kind of outerwear that you wear outside of your bedroom, per se,” says Jefferson. “The runways are also putting it back into the mainstream, so then people are more likely to be interested in looking for it.”
Thrilling predicts slip dresses, sheer and lace fabrics, lace-up garments will be big during the warmer months of the year. “Plus, a lot of the [lingerie] silhouettes that were around in the ‘50s, ‘60s, and ‘70s are coming back,” adds Jefferson.
“Dopamine Dressing” has become the antidote to our mostly-loungewear wardrobes over the past year, and that easily translates with a bright and punchy color palette. (Even beige enthusiasts Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen played with pops of color in their latest collection for The Row. )
“Come spring and summer we will see lots of warm neon colors, like strawberry, lemon, limes, and tangerine,” notes Jefferson. “We expect to see vintage monochrome sets take centerstage — we saw our prediction come to life at the Valentino Spring 2022 Couture show .”
Alongside bold colors will be a growing penchant for abstract and psychedelic prints. On Thrilling, most of its sales in 2021 were printed garments, and the popularity will only go up this year.
“People were looking to get dressed again but they were not looking for the little black dress or another pair of jeans. They were looking for something show-stopping,” says Jefferson. “By 2022, we’re going to see a lot more people really exploring that, in a way that's super fun, super young, and super eccentric. I think that's going to be really exciting to see.”
This trend has already leaned heavily towards trippy prints, from party pants to ‘60s-era mod motifs , but most of it was coming from designer names and mainstream retailers. But savvy shoppers are starting to catch on it seems, going straight to the source to see what vintage sellers have to offer instead.
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