Pallet Bar StoolsDiy Bar StoolsPallet ChairsWood Chair DiyStool DiyChair FurnitureTall Pub40 TallPlans BuildsomethingForwardThese tall pub chairs look great, whether you have them sitting at a counter or pair them with a pub table (which we’ll show you in another project plan). Plus, the chairs are comfortable thanks to the shaped seat and angled back. Neither of these great features makes the chairs difficult to build. STYLISH - Coordinates with premium wood folding tables BUILT TO LAST - Sturdy wood construction FOLDS FLAT - Folds up tight and compact for easy storage You May Also Like Cosco All Steel Folding Chair Antique Linen (4-pack) Cosco Folding 24" Stool (8-pack) Cosco Resin Folding Chair with Molded Seat and Back White Speckle (4-pack) Cosco Fabric Folding Chair Antique Linen (4-pack)Folding LibraryLibrary StepFolding Steps ChairsAmish FoldingAmish ChairsDimensions ChairChair LadderChair FormFranklin LibraryForwardthe chair/ladder from National Treasure!
I want one for my closet!! 3-Year Furniture Protection Plan 5-Year Furniture Protection Plan New (2) from $166.21 Carolina Cottage Benjamin Library Ladder Chair, Chestnut Said to originally be designed by Benjamin Franklin The chair that goes from a chair to a handy step ladder. Handy doesn't begin to describe how useful you'll find this 2 in 1 library ladder Chair. Use it as a chair until you need a step ladder. Simply undo the hinge and flip it over for a handy step ladder. 20 x 16.5 x 34 inches 3.9 out of 5 stars #34,029 in Home and Garden (See top 100) #2,540 in Home & Kitchen > Furniture > Home Office Furniture 21.4 pounds (View shipping rates and policies) 5 star45%4 star33%3 star15%1 star7%See all verified purchase reviewsTop Customer Reviewssturdy chair|As another reviewer said, there are 16 pegs that cover the screws, I suppose these can be banged/sanded into the holes to achieve the flush look. The pegs protrude less than a quarter of an inch.
This is made of solid wood and is made in Malaysia. Mine had some drips of stain on some of the ends of the pieces, but nothing too obvious.Assembly was easy other than the 4 screws that had to be drilled into the main seat portion. This portion was not predrilled. It was a bit tricky since there was not much room to maneuver the screwdriver. I just drilled slightly on an angle. This took me less than 20 min (I am not handy by any standards and have been know to mess up IKEA furniture).Unlike the some other similar chairs Solid Mahogany Convertible Ladder Chair Library Step Stool, this one does not have exposed hinges on the sitting surface.Not a bad product but.........|Awesome step ladderBest Of Luck With Assembling The Chair|Excellent quality for the money| Learn more about Amazon Giveaway Safety & Security (76) Ladders & Stepstools (28) Kitchen & Bath Fixtures (93) Kikkerland® Easy Folding Step Stool Cosco® 2-Step Folding Steel Step Stool EZ Foldz 12-Inch Folding Step Stools
Cosco® Signature Series 6-Foot Aluminum Step Ladder Hailo™ 2-Step Mini Step Stool Cosco® Signature Two-Step Aluminum Step Stool Cosco® Signature One-Step Folding Step Stool Hailo™ 2-Step Steel K20 Step Stool in White Hailo™ 3-Step Steel K20 Step Stool in White Cosco® White Chair/Step Stool Cosco® Retro Chair/Step Stool in Red Polder® 5-Step Ultra Light Step Ladder in Aluminum Xtend & Climb® 770P 12.5-Foot Telescoping Ladder Hailo Retro Step Stool in Grey Hailo™ 2-Step Steel K30 Step Stool in Silver Polder® 3-Step Ultralight Step Stool in Walnut Polder® 3-Step Ultra Light Step Ladder in Aluminum Hailo™ 3-Step Safety Plus Step Stool in White Polder® 2-Step Ultralight Step Stool in Walnut Hailo™ 2-Step Safety Plus Step Stool in White Powell Woodbury Mahogany Bed Steps with Storage Polder® 3-Step Ultralight Ladder Cosco® Signature Premium Folding Step Stool Designer Series Slim 3-Step Stool
Ascent Designer Series Slim 2-Step Stool Hailo™ Comfort 2-Step Aluminum Ladder Xtend & Climb® WT3 Professional Series 3-Step Folding Step Ladder Hailo™ 3-Step Steel K30 Step Stool in Silver Ladders & StepstoolsStep stools offer a handy tool around the house that makes it easy to reach those hard to get to spaces. Whether you’re fixing a light bulb or cleaning out your cabinets, this selection of step ladders is a must have essential item that helps out with a variety of tasks. Choose from a number of designs including one-step stools, telescoping ladders & folding designs that allow compact storage.Here’s a classic project that both steps up and provides overflow seating. Use the gridded drawings provided on the PDF plan Folding Step Stool Chair Plans to create full-size patterns for the upper and lower sides, back and contoured stretcher. Enlarge the PDF grids to 105 percent, then blow those up 200 percent to create the full-size pattern. You’ll need to tape several sheets of paper together to form the complete drawings for the upper and lower sides.
Start the project by gluing up a pair of 12-in.-wide, 4-ft.-long panels; each of these will be large enough to fit an upper and lower side piece. Apply spray-mount glue to the back of your taped-up pattern for the upper and lower side pieces. Lay it down on one of your panels and roll it smooth. If there are any loose edges between the sheets of paper in your pattern, tape them securely with clear, wide packing tape. One way to cut the spline and step dadoes for this project is to build a simple slotted jig, as shown in the video. You can make it from 1/4- and 3/4-in. scrap plywood. Make the jig’s center slot fit snugly around a 1-in. (outside diameter) guide collar for your router. The collar should slide easily but not loosely from one end of the jig to the other. Prepare for routing the dadoes by drawing reference lines to extend the dadoes on the pattern out to both edges of the panel. This will help in setting the slot-cutting jig more accurately. Use a sliding T-bevel gauge, locked to the correct angles, to draw the lines (see Figure 1).
A long rule held against the T-bevel can help extend the lines accurately to the opposite edge of the panel. Set the slotted jig carefully into position over the spline dado so the dado reference lines are evenly spaced inside the jig’s slot. Clamp the jig down securely against the panel and to your workbench. Install a 3/4-in.-diameter straight bit and the guide collar in your router. Adjust the cutting depth of your router to about 1/8 in., set the guide collar in the jig’s slot and push the router across the panel cut to make the first spline cut. Then reset the cutting depth and make a second pass to deepen the spline dado to 1/4 in. (see Figure 2). Repeat this process to rout dadoes for the first and third steps in the upper and lower side pieces. It helps to mark the slot-cutting jig with a reference line to show you where to stop each of these two dado cuts, since the router will mostly cover up the cutting path during routing. Cut the step dadoes 1/4-in. deep to match the spline dado.
Once the dadoes are cut, head to your drill press to drill out the curved corners of the cutout shapes in the side pieces. Use 3/4- and 1-in.-dia. Forstner bits for this process. Drilling out these corners will make the jigsawing process easier. When all the corners are drilled to shape, remove the rest of the waste for the inside cutouts with a jigsaw. Cut just to the waste side of the pattern layout lines so you can sand the cutouts to final shape (see Figure 3). Now go ahead and cut out the upper and lower sides. Use a jigsaw for the curved cuts (see Figure 4). Switch to a circular saw, guided by a straightedge, for making the straight cuts for best results. Or, guide your jigsaw against a straightedge instead. Smooth all of the saw cuts up to the pattern lines using an oscillating spindle sander or sanding drums in a drill press. For the broad curves, use a large-diameter drum instead of a smaller one to help reduce ripples while you sand the edges. When your first upper and lower side pieces are ready, set them on the second panel and trace their shapes to form the second upper and lower side pieces.
While you’re at it, carefully transfer the spline and step dadoes onto the second part’s shapes so you can use them as references for setting up the routing cuts (see Figure 5). Adjust your T-bevel gauge to the angles of the dadoes on the first workpieces, and transfer these angles to the second set of workpieces. Draw layout lines for the dadoes. With the dadoes located and marked, now you can cut the second upper and lower side workpieces to rough shape. Then clamp the slotted jig in place to rout the spline and step dadoes. Double-check your accuracy before turning on the router — these dadoes must match their counterparts on the other workpieces. After cutting the dadoes, make a couple of short filler pieces from 1/2-in.-thick scrap to fit the dado slots. This way, you can register each pair of upper and lower side pieces for template-routing the parts to match. Assemble the pieces with the filler strips installed, and use some double-sided tape to hold the pairs of parts together (see Figure 6).
Next, head to your router table and template-rout the upper and lower side pieces to match one another (see Figure 7). Depending on the grain pattern of the wood you are using for this project, you may need to switch from a flush-trim bit with the bearing on top to a pattern bit with the bearing on the bottom, and flip the workpieces over to rout some of the curves. The goal is to avoid routing against the grain pattern, which can lead to tearout. Plan your routing process carefully before you begin. Separate the upper and lower sides after routing them. Now, cut two 1/4-in.-thick splines for the lower side pieces from matching wood, and glue and clamp them into place. When the glue dries, trim the splines flush with the edges of the lower sides. This is a good time to ease the sharp edges of the upper and lower sides with a 1/4-in. roundover bit. Remember to rout clockwise for the inside cutouts and counterclockwise for the outer edges to avoid making climb cuts (see Figure 8).
Set your side pieces aside for a spell, and joint and plane stock for the back, stretcher, four steps and seat. Rip and crosscut these parts to size. Apply the full-size, gridded patterns for the chair back and stretcher to their workpieces using spray adhesive, and roll the patterns smooth. Then step over to your drill press to drill the ends of the handle cutout on the chair back with a 1-dia. Forstner bit. Hold this workpiece against a clamped fence when drilling these two holes to keep them in perfect alignment. Cut out the waste piece in between to open up the handle shape (see Figure 9). Cut out the back piece and stretcher now as well, and sand their edges smooth. The back edges of the first and third steps need to be bullnosed in order to fit into the curved ends of the dadoes in the side pieces. This is easy to do with a couple of passes against a 3/8-in.-radius roundover bit in the router table (see Figure 10). Now, sand the back, stretcher, steps and sides up through the grits to 180.
Make sure the curves and transitions are smooth. Then slip the first and third steps into their dadoes, clamp the parts temporarily, and mark any overhang where the steps protrude past the sides (see Figure 11). Tilt your table saw blade to match these angles — it should be about 20 degrees — and trim the steps to final width. While you’re at it, the inside edge of the top step also needs to be cut to this angle. At this point, you can start assembling the project by clamping the back between the upper sides. Position the back piece about 2 inches below the top ends of the upper sides and center it, front to back. Trace around the back’s four points of contact with the sides: these will be your only references for positioning the assembly screws. Then unclamp the parts and drill 1/8-in. pilot holes through the sides at the centers of each of the four traced references. Re-assemble the back and sides, and use the pilot holes as guides for drilling countersunk screw holes through the outside faces of the sides and into the back.
Drive a 1-1/2-in. flathead wood screw into each of these holes to attach the back (see Figure 12). Add the third step next. Spread glue in the dadoes before slipping the step into place and driving screws through the upper sides to secure it (see Figure 13). Then fasten the seat and top step workpieces to the upper sides with more 1-1/2-in. wood screws, driven into countersunk pilot holes, to complete this assembly. Build the lower framework by bringing the lower sides together with the first step, using glue and countersunk 1-1/2-in. screws to secure the parts. Add the second step, gluing and screwing it down to the top of the lower assembly (see Figure 14). Then fit the stretcher into place between the sides and attach it with more screws. All of the exposed screw heads need to be hidden under wood plugs, so make those next at the drill press with a plug cutter. Make the wood plugs from a piece of scrap left over from your project wood. For safety, hold the workpiece against a clamped fence to immobilize it when cutting the plugs.