Receive Free Shipping Every Day on Orders of $35 or More. Click Here to Learn How! Receive Free Shipping Every Day. Price (Low to High) Price (High to Low) Most Popular (Low to High) Most Popular (High to Low) 24-3/4" Spindles-Select Birch or Oak Create-A-Column Series 150 Split Center Spindle 1-1/2" Long x 9/16" Diameter Maple Spindles, 8-pack 1-7/8" Spindle Length x 3/4" Diameter Maple Spindles, 8-pack Create-A-Column Series 150 Split End Spindle Empress Leaf Create-A-Column Split Spindle Series 200 Create-A-Column Series 200 Split End Spindle Create-A-Column Series 250 Split Center Spindle Series 200 Create-A-Column Weaved End Split Spindle Create-A-Column Series 250 Split End SpindleThe requested URL /shoppingcart/zen-cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=47 was not found on this server. Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.Made in the USA Wood Furniture Spindles
Wholesale prices on a large selection of Wood Furniture Spindles in Birch, Maple, Poplar, Cherry and Walnut Count on great quality USA Made wood spindles from Bear Woods - our customers love our spindles product and keep returning. ***Special Requests Welcome for High Volume Purchases of Hardwood Spindles. Other items related to USA Made wooden spindles: Smaller Premium Maple Spindles Smooth wood spindle in Maple wood - ready for your projects! Maple Wood Spindles 3-7/16 inch by 1/2 inch (Per bag of 25)* Cherry Wood Spinlde 1/2 inch X 3-7/16 inch* Oak Spindles 3-7/16" by 1/2" (Per 25)* 1/2" x 3-7/16" Spindle - Walnut (Per 25)* Maple Wood Spindles 5-13/16 inches by 1/2 inch* Oak Spindles 5-13/16 inches by 1/2"* Spindle 1/2" x 5-13/16" X 1/4" dia. Ten. Cherry Wood Spindle 1/2 inch X 5-13/16 inch (1/4inch dia. Ten.) Maple Wood Spindle 5/8 inch X 8-5/8 inch* Cherry Wood Spindle 5/8 inch X 8-5/8 inch* Oak Spindles 8-5/8" 5/8"*
5/8" x 8-5/8" Spindle - Walnut* Maple Wood Spindle 9 inches by 3/4 inch* Cherry Wood Spindle 3/4" X 9"* Oak Spindle 9" by 3/4"* Poplar Wooden Spindles 9" X 3/4"* 3/4" x 9" Spindle - Walnut* Maple Wood Spindles 9- 3/4" x 3/4"* Cherry Wood Spindle 3/4 inch X 9-3/4 inch* Oak Spindles - 3/4" x 9-3/4" with 3/8" tenon* 3/4" x 9-3/4" Spindle - Walnut* Maple Wood Spindles 11 inches by 7/8 inches* Oak Spindle 11-1/4" by 7/8"* Walnut Spindles 7/8" x 11-1/4" long with 3/8" tenon*Use dowels and glue to repair most wooden chairs. Wooden chairs rely on many parts. Some are thin, and undergo unnatural stress. It's no wonder they crack, split or loosen occasionally. You might notice creaking, sagging or worse when small problems occur with spindles or legs. If you love your chair, take notice of small detractions. Most of them are easy enough to repair using tools you probably already have in your arsenal. Apply a bit of TLC to your chair, and keep it on its feet for years to come.
Grasp each spindle or back rail with your hand. Wiggle and twist them individually. Identify spindles or rails that are loose or cracked. Insert the tip of a putty knife into any cracks or splits. Pry the split open as far as possible. Inject wood glue into the crack to saturate it. Place clamps on the crack to compress it. If clamps won't work, wrap the spindle tight with masking tape. Wipe off any wet glue with a damp cloth. Allow the glue to dry overnight and remove the tape or clamps. Scrape off dried glue using the putty knife. Insert a 1/4-inch drill bit into a drill/driver. Place the tip of the bit at the point where loose spindles or back rails penetrate into chair seats or cross members at the top. Tilt the bit 30 degrees. Drill up or down through the end of the spindle or rail to at least 1 1/2 inches in depth. If the bit penetrates all the way through to the other side, that's OK. Inject glue into the hole. Tap one 1/4-by-1 1/2-inch dowel into the hole using a hammer. If it penetrates all the way through that's fine.
Allow the glue to dry overnight. Trim off any protruding ends of the dowel using a hammer and chisel. Color the end of the dowel to match the chair using a stain marker. Turn the chair upside down. Grasp the legs with your hands. Wiggle and twist them to identify loose mortises, dowels, cracks or splits. Pull the legs apart if possible. If the motion exposes dowels or tenons, apply glue to the exposed part of the tenon or dowel. Place clamps on the parts to compress the dowel or mortise back into the corresponding mortise or hole. Wipe off wet glue with a damp cloth. Scrape off the dried glue with a putty knife. Pry apart cracks or splits as far as possible using a putty knife. Inject glue into the crack until saturated. Place clamps on the leg and tighten to compress the crack. Insert a 3/8-inch drill bit into a drill/driver. Drill through the crack, and all the way through the leg. If the crack or split is over 3 inches long, drill two holes, evenly spaced. Tap 3/8-by-3-inch dowels into the holes using a hammer.
Allow the dowel to protrude from both sides of the leg. Wipe off wet glue using a damp cloth. Cut the protruding ends of the dowels off flush using a coping saw. Sand the ends of the dowels smooth using 120-grit sandpaper. Color the ends of the dowels using a stain marker. /Getty Images Suggest a CorrectionIf there's one thing all 21st century wood-workers can claim, it's remarkably good fortune. We have the tools to make the most tedious job effortless and the trickiest joint flawless. And, anything from glue and lumber to paint and hardware is as close as the nearest home center or only a mouse click away on the Internet. But most of all, we have our legacy of woodworking--hundreds of years of design and wooden construction from which to draw inspiration and on which to base our craft.Sometimes, though, there's a chance to do more than take from our past--we can give something back by rescuing a piece that's seen better days. We had the opportunity to do just that when we discovered this 50-year-old Windsor rocking chair.
Even with broken joints and a ruined finish, the chair's classic lines made it an irresistible candidate for restoration. Although the specific procedure we used to bring our rocker back to life might not match your restoration project, there's a good chance many of the techniques will be relevant.Exposure to the elements had ruined many of the glue joints in our chair, but surprisingly, some were still sound. Two failed joints in the seat had left one of the seat boards hanging free, and most of the spindles were no longer securely held in their sockets. We decided to leave the solid seat and leg joints alone, but we disassembled all the upper spindle joints.To remove a stubborn seat spindle, bore an access hole in the seat bottom to meet the spindle tenon (1).Use a centerpunch and hammer to tap out the piece (2).At the arms, use a nonslip pad to help twist the spindles free (3). Remember to label the pieces for easy reassembly.To restore the failed seat joints, first plane the mating surfaces to provide a good fit (4).
Remove only as much material as necessary to avoid affecting the shape of the chair and the fit of the spindle joints.To glue the seat pieces together, first make a clamping caul by tracing the seatback edge on 2 x 4 stock (5). Cut to the line with a sabre saw or band saw.Then, apply glue to the mating surfaces, and use bar or pipe clamps to hold the seat together while the glue sets. Use two waxed 1 x 2 cauls at the top and bottom of the seat at each side to keep the pieces aligned (6).To repair endgrain cracks in seat-joint lines, glue thin, tapered maple wedges in place. Use a syringe to apply the glue (7).To make very thin wedges for fine checks, tape the wedge to a scrap stick and feather its edge with a file (8).With the seat repairs made, scrape away all old glue from the sockets and disassembled spindles. Be careful not to enlarge the holes or reduce spindle-tenon diameters.Before applying a finish remover, plug all of the spindle holes with corks (9). Packages of corks of various sizes are usually available at hardware stores.
Use a hacksaw blade to trim the corks flush (10). Protect the spindle tenons from the finish-stripping operation by wrapping them with masking tape.We used 3M Safest Stripper to remove our chair's finish. Following the manufacturer's instructions, brush on the stripper in heavy coats and allow it to penetrate the old finish (11). To apply stripper to the spindles, bore oversize holes for the spindle tenons in scrap stock to create a convenient benchtop spindle-holding rack (12).Remove the softened finish by gently scraping with a putty knife (13). Be careful not to gouge the wood surface. Clean the curved surfaces with a flexible stripping pad (14). To clean small grooves in the turned spindles, use a piece of twine that you've coated with dampened pumice (15). Use a small brass-bristle brush in recesses (16). Remove any remaining residue with stripping pads and soapy water, followed by fine stripping pads and clean water.When the wood is dry, lightly sand the chair with 220-grit paper to remove any raised grain that can result from the application of water.
We used a 3M sanding sponge on the turned members (17).Remove the cork plugs from the spindle holes and use a belt sander to carefully level the seat repairs (18). In the concave area of the seat, use a curved cabinet scraper to remove any marks or dents (19). Finish sand the seat with a random-orbit sander (20). With the sanding completed, dry assemble the chair to check the fit of all the parts.We used Titebond Extend wood glue for the spindle assembly because of its long open time. First, apply glue and attach the spindle and arm components to the seat (21). Then, temporarily install the back cross-member, or splat, to keep the long spindles in position while the glue sets.To complete the assembly, apply glue and install the back spindles in the seat. Spread glue on the spindle top tenons and in the splat tenon holes with a small brush (22). Install the splat starting at one end and gradually tilting the other end down as you engage the spindles (23).We used Behlen Solar-Lux American Walnut dye-based stain to color our chair.
This is a fast-drying stain, so add 10 percent Solar-Lux Retarder to slow the drying time and help prevent lap marks. Working on one area at a time, apply the stain by wiping it on with a padded cloth (24).For a durable topcoat with just the right sheen, we finished our rocking chair with three coats of Deft Semi-Gloss Clear Wood Finish, applied following the manufacturer's instructions (25). Note that this is a lacquer finish. You must use the product in a well-ventilated area.Packages of corks of various sizes are usually available at hardware stores.Following the manufacturer's instructions, brush on the stripper in heavy coats and allow it to penetrate the old finish (11).Be careful not to gouge the wood surface.Clean the curved surfaces with a flexible stripping pad (14).To clean small grooves in the turned spindles, use a piece of twine that you've coated with dampened pumice (15).Remove the cork plugs from the spindle holes and use a belt sander to carefully level the seat repairs (18).