How to Drain a Waterbed Without a Pump Home & Garden | A waterbed is a bed whose mattress is a watertight bag filled with water [source: Merriam-Webster]. Therefore, they can't simply be transported, like a regular mattress. Rather, waterbeds must be drained before being transported. Most waterbeds come with a pump to facilitate the draining. But what if you've lost your pump, and have to transport your mattress? Here's how to drain a waterbed without a pump. If the water is not flowing freely, you can try sucking the air out of the hose with your mouth. This will get the water going [source: Landandsky].< 1234 5 6789 > 17,433 posts, read 17,584,409 times 19 posts, read 77,059 times 328 posts, read 1,215,107 times 69 posts, read 308,129 times Your post brought back some weird memories Well who did they think "it" belonged to in their bed??? 2,403 posts, read 4,454,707 timesI brought this thread back for a good reason...
Hubby & I have been sleeping on the "ORIGINAL-TYPE" waterbed, with NO BAFFLES for 30 plus years. Yes it's heated, couldn't have it without it. It's raised with drawers underneath it & have padded rails. By the way I had to laugh when I read it was hard for some of you to get out of the waterbed. I am an aputee above knee, for almost 6 years now & I get out with no problem. I can only get out on the left side of the bed, though. We think it's time to grow up LOL !!! My back is starting to bother me plus were putting in new flooring thru out the house. We've checked out 1 custom mattress store so far. $ 600.00 for he mattress (nice pillow top) Talking to close friends they said that was a good price. What advive do you have for us ? Type to look for ??? This is going to be tough. How in the world do you know what the mattress is going to feel like to actually sleep on, when you only can check them out in a store (???) We only need the mattress. Hubby is putting the new mattress on top of the platform.
Thanks in advance for your 2 cents worth. 1,760 posts, read 3,272,884 times 2,626 posts, read 9,402,742 times Originally Posted by dorado0359 Into the dumpster with the 1980 Pacer and Bellbottom jeans? No, seriously, with memory foam, latex, and air filled sleep number beds, there are more alternatives that are less maintenance. I had a waterbed as a teenager. I remember waking up one morning in a pool of water up to my ear lobes. It was a strange feeling. 2,731 posts, read 5,413,348 times Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.We are sometimes asked about the best methods of mold removal from waterbed mattresses and the answer depends on whether the mold is on the exterior surface of the mattress or inside the mattress. Wherever you have mold on your waterbed, though, it’s important to remove it because exposure to mold spores has been linked to numerous health problems, including allergic reactions, rashes, respiratory disorders, sinus infections, digestive problems, pneumonia, asthma attacks, inflammation of the joints, depression and fatigue.
You definitely don’t want to be breathing in mold spores every night when you sleep. In addition, most strains of mold spread quickly and easily from one part of the home to another, so it’s important to deal with mold in your waterbed right away before it spreads. Sometimes mold begins to grow on the exterior surface of a waterbed mattress when there is a leak in the mattress. A small leak may go unnoticed for a while, but the warmth and moisture makes a perfect environment for mold. If you notice mold on the outer surface of your waterbed mattress, you should inspect the mattress carefully for leaks. Sometimes small leaks can be repaired; other times, the mattress must be replaced. If you suspect mold on the underside of your waterbed mattress, you’ll need to drain the mattress so that you can turn it over, inspect it carefully, repair any leaks and clean the mattress thoroughly. Inspect your waterbed liner for mold, as well.Use bleach and water, to clean mold from the exterior of your waterbed mattress and from the waterbed liner.
Allow them to dry completely before putting your bed back together. Mold removal from waterbed mattresses becomes a bit more difficult when the mold is inside the mattress. It can be hard to know if there is mold inside your waterbed mattress, but if you unplug the valve and take a sniff, a strong musty odor is a sign that there is probably mold in there. Unfortunately, the inside of a waterbed mattress is a great habitat for mold, since it’s very warm and very moist.You can buy waterbed conditioner, which is a liquid solution you put inside the mattress when you first fill it with water, to help prevent the growth of mold inside the mattress. Once you have mold in the mattress, though, adding conditioner probably won’t help. To be safe, we recommend buying a new mattress for your waterbed. Depending on the type of mattress you buy, it may not cost that much to replace your mattress. As far as household mold problems go, waterbed mold is fairly simple to deal with and many people are able to handle the task themselves.
If you’re not sure if you’ve removed all the mold, though, or aren’t sure if you need to replace the mattress, or if you’ve got mold in other areas of the home (a distinct possibility, given how quickly and easily many strains of mold can spread), we recommend scheduling a free in-home consultation with a mold removal professional. An experienced professional will come to your home, inspect your waterbed and any other places you have mold, and advise you about the best way to deal with the problem. You can choose to hire the professional to do the job for you, but even if you want to do the work yourself, you can benefit from some free expert advice. To find experienced mold removal professionals in your area, just follow the link provided.Return From Mold Removal From Waterbed To Our Main Remediation Page Does Insurance Cover Mold Removal?Though waterbeds have declined in popularity since their peak in the 1970's, they retain a core following. Devotees generally praise waterbeds for their lack of pressure points, controllable temperature, and all-around "groovy"-ness.
Critics have traditionally derided their lack of firm support, disturbance caused by your partner's movements, and fear of leaks. In recent years though, improvements to the waterbed core have served to reduce unwanted motion, add lumbar support, and greatly decrease the incidence of leakage. In addition, many of today's waterbeds have come to look much like traditional innerspring mattresses, offering layers of upholstery on top of a core that contains water rather than coils. Together, these upgrades have addressed many of the comfort, support, and durability issues encountered by previous generations of waterbeds. Generally speaking, there are two types of waterbeds available on the market today — "soft-sided" and "hard-sided." Soft-sided waterbeds, the newer and more popular type, feature a water-filled chamber (sometimes referred to as a "bladder") encased in sturdy foam and upholstery, making their external appearance closely resemble that of a traditional innerspring mattress.
The bladder is held in place by stiff foam rails on each side, sometimes referred to as foam encasing, which also provide edge support for the mattress. Foam encasing rails that are somewhat thinner near the top surface of the mattress but wider at the bottom tend to maximize sleeping area while preserving durability. A soft-sided waterbed can generally sit on a traditional mattress foundation, such as a box spring, though their hefty weight necessitates the use of a heavy-duty bed frame with a center support. Soft-sided waterbeds, sometimes referred to as "hybrids," typically feature several layers of upholstery on top of the bladder as well. These can be evaluated in the same way as the upholstery in an innerspring mattress. Hard-sided waterbeds, the classic model, feature a relatively unstructured bladder placed inside a special wood "frame," which holds the mattress in its proper shape. The frame sits on top of a "deck," a specially designed platform for waterbeds that evenly distributes the weight of the mattress, so as to minimize strain on both the bladder seams above and the floor below.
Hard-sided waterbed foundations often feature a padded rail along their perimeter that helps to ease entry and exit, however getting in and out of a hard-sided waterbed can still take some getting used to. Hard-sided waterbeds typically offer much less upholstery on top of the bladder than soft-sided waterbeds (and in many cases none at all), making temperature control and motion separation important issues to consider. One of the most popular aspects of waterbeds is the ability to control their temperature. Waterbed enthusiasts frequently cite the therapeutic benefits of sleeping on a heated mattress, and anyone can appreciate the appeal of a warm bed on a cold evening. Heating is provided by a specially designed pad that sits beneath the mattress. Precise temperature is a matter of personal preference that can typically be controlled by a thermostat on the heater. Experts suggest that a temperature between 81 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit (27 to 30 degrees Celsius) is best for most people.
Due to their significant cushioning, heating is considered optional for soft-sided waterbeds. However, it is strongly recommended for hard-sided waterbeds, where there is less separation between your skin and the water. Conventional "free flow" waterbeds have long been known for the "waves" that travel freely across their surface upon the slightest movement. Though this sensation is often cherished by traditional waterbed fans, for many others, waves are considered a source of disturbance from peaceful sleep and a sign of insufficient spinal support. In recent years, the waterbed industry has made great strides in developing techniques to counteract these concerns, while still preserving the original benefits of a water-based core. One way that manufacturers have addressed this point is by placing motion dampening materials, such as layers of fiber batting (a felt-like material), into the bladder. This solution, known as "fiber filling" or "baffling," is used in both soft-sided and hard-sided waterbeds.
Fiber filling serves the dual purpose of reducing motion in the water as well as increasing the firmness of the bed. In general, more fiber filling results in greater motion separation and firmer support. Options range from semi-waveless (50% motion reduction) to ultra-waveless (95%+ motion reduction). Fiber can also be used to bolster support in specific areas of the mattress, such as for increased lumbar support. Many people even find that the reduced motion and increased firmness makes fiber-filled waterbeds easier to get into and out of. Conversely, fiber filling can complicate draining of the bladder due to its retention of water, and on rare occasions can cause discomfort in the event it becomes un-tethered and begins to move around within the bladder. The second approach to achieving enhanced support and motion separation in waterbeds entails compartmentalizing the water. With a dual mattress system, also known as "dual bladders," water is divided between two separate chambers, providing motion separation and allowing for different levels of fiber filling (for support) and temperature (for comfort) on each side of the bed.
With a hydraulic waterbed mattress, the bladder is divided into numerous small compartments, but the water is allowed to travel between the compartments in a controlled manner via small holes. This form of compartmentalization results in a more gradual responsiveness to movements and a firmer level of overall support. In some hydraulic mattress designs the compartments are cylindrically shaped, causing some to refer to them as "coils" even though they lack any true spring action. Waterbeds are carefully constructed to avoid leaks, punctures and bursting; and technological advances have significantly reduced the occurrence of such problems. Bladders are generally made of heavy duty vinyl that contains materials similar to those found in PVC piping. In addition to its superior water containment, vinyl's non-porous nature makes it less likely to harbor mold, dust mites, or other allergens. The thickness of vinyl used for waterbed bladders is usually between 20 and 30 millimeters, with thicker vinyl providing better protection against punctures.
Bladders are sealed tightly using a variety of methods. Reinforced corner panel seams typically provide the most reliable seals, although radial lap seams can work fine as well. Butt seams are generally considered the weakest and least durable. Most waterbeds also feature a safety liner around the bladder, which offers additional protection in the event of a problem. It is worth noting that since new waterbeds are sold empty, both soft-sided and hard-sided waterbeds will require some assembly once you get them into your home. Waterbed bladders feature varying levels of depth, or "fill levels," ranging from shallow (3 to 5 inches) to mid-fill (5 to 6 inches) to deep fill (7 to 8 inches). Shallow fill levels are generally only used in soft-sided waterbeds, where the bladder is surrounded by foam and typically covered with several layers of upholstery. All else being equal, the deeper the fill, the more potential there is for movement, which is largely a matter of personal preference.