Nothing ruins your garden or yard like weeds, those uninvited guests that rob your plants of space and nutrients. So murder those weeds most foul, but without harmful chemicals that can do you in, too.Who says you need standard weeding tools to kill weeds? Here are seven ways to kill weeds with weapons you already have around your house.A carpet of newspaper, which blocks sunlight and oxygen from reaching the soil, will smother weeds already sprouted and prevent new ones from growing. Throw down newspaper in 10-sheet layers, wet to hold it down, and cover with an inch or two of mulch. If weeds begin to grow in the mulch, add more layers, making a mulch-newspaper lasagna, which eventually will decompose and nourish the soil.Spreading these useless items in garden paths or between rows will keeps weeds from ever showing their unwanted heads. This corn by-product stops seeds from growing into weeds. Since the meal will prevent germination, spread it around established plants, and after seedlings and transplants have taken hold in the soil.
After harvest, spread the meal to prevent late-season weeds.The acetic acid in 5% vinegar is a desiccant that sucks the life out of plant leaves. It’s most destructive to young plants with immature roots, though it just rolls off weeds with waxy leaves, like pennywort or thistle.Make sure you cover desirables before spraying, because vinegar is an equal opportunity killer. Keep your spray on-target by removing the bottom from a 2-liter plastic soda bottle, and placing it over the weed. Spray vinegar into the mouth of the bottle, which will keep it from splattering on your vegetables.Don’t know if vodka makes weeds fall down dead or drunk, but 1 ounce mixed with 2 cups of water and a couple of drops of dish soap will dry out weeds that live in the sun. Doesn’t work that well on shade-loving weeds. Protect desirables, because vodka will dry them out, too.The oil in soap can break down waxy or hairy weed surfaces, making them vulnerable to desiccants. So add a few drops of liquid dish detergent to vinegar or vodka sprays to keep the solution on leaves.
The soap also makes leaves shiny, which will help you keep track of what you’ve sprayed.After you’ve made yourself a cup of tea, take the kettle outside and pour the boiling water on weeds, which will burn up. This is a particularly good way to whack driveway and walkway weeds, because the boiling water can run off impervious surfaces and cool before it reaches border plants. Check here frequently to see what tips and tricks our gardeners and landscapers have to offer. Leave any of your naturalizing daffodil foliage until it has completely browned. The leaves are the energy that the bulb needs to produce a flower next year. The longer you keep the leaves the more energy the bulb has to produce a beautiful bloom next spring. Begin to fertilize your roses with granular fertilizer (once a month) or liquid fertilizer (twice a month) to promote healthy and strong plants and to ensure continued flowers. Mid April is a great time to plant your summer annuals including angelonia, pentas, salvias, vinca and purslane or portulaca for sunny spots.
The more you stay on top of it now, the easier it will be next month. Begin to mulch your beds with at least 2-3 inches of mulch for the heat of the summer to help retain the moisture. As you begin mowing and edging your lawns, remember to avoid string trimmers right at the trunk of the tree or you will cause damage (girdling) to the tree that can weaken your tree. Deadhead flowers to promote repeat blooms on things like roses, daylilies and salvias. Begin to cut back perennial plants that look stressed (salvia, sage, ornamental grasses, etc.) Cut back to a new growth point toward the base of the plant. Be patient with blooming plants, as the heat causes a delay in blooming (a defensive mechanism for heat-stressed plants). Water early in the morning (following your water restrictions) to avoid disease and insect issues that can be caused from watering at night. Cut back hibiscus plants to about 8″ to encourage a second bloom this fall. Late August and early September are ideal for planting fall vegetable gardens.
Prepare beds a few weeks prior to planting by adding 1-3″ of compost and incorporating it into the soil. To minimize the likelihood of weeds this fall, do not allow weeds to go to seed. Plant shade trees now to take advantage of the mild fall and winter weather for root growth. Prepare beds to plant cool season flowers. Add compost as need to your flowerbeds. Deadhead flowering plants to stimulate more blooms. This is the last time to fertilize roses for the winter months. Wait until January/February to fertilize again. With the mild weather, it is a perfect time to plant landscapes. The cooling temperatures allow for more root growth, which will establish the plant before winter cold snaps. Take advantage of the weather and dig, divide and plant your spring/summer blooming perennials. Begin to back off on watering. With the cooler temperatures, soils stay moist longer than they did this summer. You do not want to overwater your plants.
Mulch all new plantings to reduce weeds, maintain soil moisture and regular soil temperatures. This will be the last time to do any pruning on your rose bushes until February. Sow bluebonnets and other wildflowers. Make preparation to protect tropical plants or move them to a greenhouse. Prepare exposed pipes for winter. After last use of mower or other power equipment, make the machines ready for winter storage. Don’t leave gasoline in the machine over winter. Start thinking about purchasing fall planting/spring blooming bulbs. Don’t plant until all hot weather is over. Prune trees when they are dormant. Don’t let fall leaves go to waste. Either shred and compost them or use them as mulch. Fluffy whole leaves can be piled around tender plants as an insulating mulch. Prune trees when they are dormant. It is easier to observe the form and spot problems on a leafless tree. Even in winter, paint the pruning wounds on live oaks.