I ran out of my OST C20 a couple of weeks ago, and have been debating DIY vs rebuying, or at least buying a different Vitamin C serum to tide me over. Now, I'm not a chemist - taking a couple of chemistry classes in college does not a chemist make - but I did do some research into Vitamin C, and what I've found is kind of upsetting. Water, Ascorbic Acid, Ethanol, Sodium Lactate, Butylene Glycol, Glucose, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Rosa Davurica Bud Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bis-PEG-18, Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Xanthan, PEG-180, Gluconolactone, Beta-Glucan, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Zinc PCA, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Tocopherol Acetate, Lecithin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ubiquinone, Diisopropyl Adipate, Phenoxyethanol The most notable ingredient in here is obviously Ascorbic Acid, aka Vitamin C, although I will refer to it as L-AA (L-Ascorbic Acid) for the rest of this post.
L-AA is kind of a superstar active that I think pretty much everyone should be using. It's a powerful antioxidant whose functions include stimulating collagen production, fading hyperpigmentation, scavenging free radicals, and boosting sun protection. Because L-AA requires a low pH to be effective, it also has a mild exfoliating effect (it's also an AHA). Seriously, it's just amazing. It's also one of the most well researched actives in skincare. Not hard to believe, as anything that can do all that and more will make money. And make money it does. It makes sense why OST skyrocketed into being one of the bestselling products in the Korean beauty market. A $20 (~$15-$25ish) product compared to $50, or even $150? To summarize, there are a few things about Vitamin C that are pretty important: L-AA is highly unstable, oxidizing rapidly from light, oxygen, and temperature. This is addressed by companies by packaging it in a dark or opaque bottle, and advising consumers to store it in the refrigerator or in a cool, dark space.
Do not use Vitamin C serums that have oxidized. Oxidized Vitamin C is a pro-oxidant. At best, it's biologically inactive and does nothing for you, and at worst will damage/age your skin. There are some ingredients that work well with L-AA. Vitamin E (aka Tocopherol or Tocopherol Acetate) is the John Watson to L-AA's Sherlock. They're great by themselves, but even better together (synergy). Adding Vitamin E to an L-AA serum, among other things, keeps it from oxidizing for longer. Ferulic Acid, another powerful antioxidant, can stabilize a Vitamin C+E solution and makes it eight times(!!!) more photoprotective. Sodium Lactate is a humectant with some antimicrobial properties. It is listed in some places as being able to enhance Vitamin C's skin lightening properties, although there doesn't seem to be much research on it. On the other hand, there are a couple of things that do not play well with L-AA. Sodium Benzoate is a common preservative, but when combined with L-AA, can form benzene, a carcinogenic compound.
Niacinamide, aka Vitamin B3, is a great active, but when combined with L-AA, renders both of them useless - or in presence of UV, can be pro-oxidative. Some other controversial ingredients include green tea extract and copper peptides. Also, just because you cannot see damage does not mean damage is not being done. Despite being so fickle, L-AA is also the most commonly used Vitamin C vitamer because it is most effective, outperforming MAP and ATIP. badirreversible damage to your skin, omg Hippophae Rhamnoides Water, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Lactate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Ethyl HexanediolThis isn't the new C20? This is a different product? They're still selling the other one as well? This one costs more? They dropped the Vitamin E?I'm not asking for much, y'all. I want L-AA, between 15-20%, with a drop of Vitamin E, a smaller drop of Ferulic Acid, and some stuff that's not going to hurt my skin.
No, I don't need the L-AA raised, as that can be potentially irritating, with no proof that it's any more effective. Yes, the sea buckthorn water (Hippophae Rhamnoides) is neat, but I'd rather they just used Vitamin E, sea buckthorn oil, and just emulsified it. Nothing here justifies the increase in price. There's no reason for them to keep the same ingredients in the C20. So will I be purchasing the C21.5 to try? I'll be DIYing, thanks. If you're game, join me in a few weeks, or just google it. There are so many recipes out there, even some that knock off the fancy $150 Skinceuticals one. There's even a subreddit full of DIY recipes. If DIY isn't for you though, there are still affordable, effective options out there. SkinActives has one for even cheaper than the original C20, and NuFountain even has Prime shipping. What other Vitamin C serums do you recommend?Excellent for Sensitive SkinNatural and Organic100% Money Back Guarantee Kleem Organics Selling Vitamin C Serum
With over , Kleem Organic’s Serum is the Vitamin C serum on the market. Benefits of Topical Aloe Vera in Kleem Organics Serum 20% Vitamin C and 15% Hyaluronic Acid Order Your Vitamin C Serum Now artnaturals® Vitamin C Serum ( 1oz. / 30ml ) 1 fl oz / 30 ml What do you C when you look in the mirror? If it’s wrinkles, fine lines or sun spots, give your complexion a whole new reflection. Custom crafted for rapid absorption, this antioxidant-rich serum protects skin from sun damage and free radicals while restoring youthfulness. Aqua (Water), Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Hamamelis Virginiana Water (Witch Hazel), Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide (botanical hyaluronic acid), Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamine), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf extract (Organic Aloe), Ferulic Acid, Glycerin (Kosher, Vegetable), Simondsia Chinensis Oil (Organic Jojoba), Centella Asiatica extract (Organic Gotu Kola), equisetum Arvense extract (Horsetail), Taraxacum Officinale extract (Dandelion), Geranium Maculatum extract (Wild Geranium), SD Alcohol 40B