Vitamin C has long been touted for its beauty benefits from anti-aging properties for younger looking skin to growing longer, stronger hair and nails. Are these just marketing claims that the cosmetics industry is to make you think the products are natural, green, and healthy? Or are there true benefits to applying Vitamin C externally to your hair and skin? Perhaps not surprisingly, the answer is sometimes yes, sometimes no. Vitamin C is a popular component of many topically applied skin care products, where it has definite observed benefits when used above certain concentrations (5-15%). At the surface, it acts as an anti-oxidant, combating damage caused by free radicals created by environmental pollutants and ultraviolet radiation exposure. This can help prevent formation of new wrinkles that occur when free radicals are present on skin. Vitamin C has also been shown to penetrate and transfer to epidermal tissue where it aids in cellular repair and promotes collagen production.
It is beyond the scope of this article to explore all of the mechanisms and variables by which vitamin C benefits skin, but clearly, it does provide some genuine value. Whether or not it provides benefits to hair is less dependent upon complicated cellular processes and more dependent upon some basic chemical properties. Vitamin C is the common name for ascorbic acid, a small chiral molecule, in other words one that can occur in two different forms that are non-superimposable mirror images of one another. The type of ascorbic acid found in plants, synthesized in animals and used in cosmetic and food products is the left-handed molecule (levorotatory enantiomer) of ascorbic acid (L-ascorbic acid). For whatever reason, the right-handed version (dextrorotatory) does not occur in nature and the lab-synthesized version offers no benefits over its more readily available isomer. Vitamin C is a small molecule organic acid, with key structural features in common with other mild acids, such as acetic acid (vinegar) and citric acid.
For this reason, ascorbic acid can act as a mild clarifying agent in shampoo and can be effective in helping remove mineral buildup accumulated on the surface of the hair. This improves the ability of the hair to accept moisture, which makes it more soft and supple and resistant to tangling and breakage. Also, the lower pH of acidic shampoos smoothes and tightens the cuticle surface, rendering the hair more evenly reflective and shinier. The presence of multiple hydroxyl groups (oxygen-hydrogen, -OH) makes ascorbic acid extremely hygroscopic, meaning it attracts and binds water to itself. For this reason, vitamin C can act as a humectant and effective moisturizer in hair products when used in conditioners, leave-in conditioners and styling products. Also, when included as a component in leave-in conditioners and styling products, vitamin C can act as an anti-oxidant, much in the same manner as in skin creams. Free radicals can cause structural damage to the proteins in hair, which can lead to split ends and breakage.
They also can react with both natural melanin and synthetic dye molecules resident in the cortex of the hair strands and bleach color from hair, while simultaneously causing physical damage to it. For this reason, free radical scavengers, such as vitamin C can be quite useful in color retention and maintaining the health and integrity of hair. Ascorbic acid is water soluble and is thus not a concern for build up or accumulation on the surface of hair, even when non-mainstream cleansing methods are employed (low-poo, no-poo). Oftentimes, vitamin C is used as a preservative or pH adjuster in hair care products and has no significant impact at all on final properties of the product. If it appears as one of the last few ingredients, below what is known as the one-percent line, you can be assured that this is the case. The marketing materials for some hair care products claim that their vitamin-C containing formula can promote hair growth and repair an unhealthy scalp. While it is certainly true that ascorbic acid is capable of transfer to tissue and cells in specifically-formulated skin care products where it can participate in cellular processes, this isn't usually the case in shampoos and conditioners.
The reasons for this are that the pH of hair care products is generally too high for the acid to be active and the concentration of the ascorbic acid is too low for there to be any benefit. For this reason, most of these types of products will have no significant impact to the scalp or hair growth. However, it is possible that a formula intended for direct skin application might be of some benefit to the scalp tissue. Whether this would promote hair growth is not certain, but a healthy scalp is in the best position to perform this function. This would probably fall into the category of “it couldn’t hurt to try in moderation.” Some users have reported that some vitamin C-based products have felt drying to their hands and hair. This is going to be very dependent upon an individual’s hair and skin type as well as on the other ingredients in the formulation. It is doubtful that the vitamin C itself leads to dryness, but perhaps if coupled with harsh surfactants, a too-low pH or insufficient emollients and moisturizers, a product could produce that undesirable tactile feel.
Always trust your own reaction to a product and use what works for you!Vitamin C serums are a fantastic addition to anyones beauty arsenal as a quality serum can reduce inflammation to help clear acne, promote collagen formation to plump out scars and fade post acne marks and hyper pigmentation for smoother, clearer skin. However, with DIY natural beauty being more popular than ever, the misuse of certain ingredients is becoming more and more common. Today I'm sharing four reasons why you should never make a vitamin C serum at home. Why You Should NEVER Make Your Own Vitamin C Serum You may have heard some beauty bloggers touting the benefits of applying highly acidic fruits containing vitamin C, such as lemons, directly to the skin to speed up healing and fade scars. I can't stress enough how BAD this advice is! Lemon's don't actually contain that much vitamin C but they are very, very acidic so when applied directly to the skin they destroy our skin's acid mantle and cause redness and irritation.
Crushing up your vitamin C tablet or adding L-ascorbic acid powder to water or glycerin may seem like a much cheaper solution to a pricey vitamin C serum but they are many reasons why you should never make your own vitamin C serum at home! Vitamin C will crystallise So your favourite beauty blogger has told you that dissolving some L-ascorbic vitamin C crystals into water makes a great vitamin C facial mist and you are desperate to give it a go... The problem here is those vitamin C crystals may dissolve in water but as soon as you apply the mixture to your skin, the vitamin C will start to recrystallise - meaning it'll never penetrate much further that the surface of your skin and won't give you any of the desired effects that a properly formulated serum would do. The main ingredient used in DIY vitamin C serums is L-ascorbic acid, like the name suggests - it's highly acidic. Healthy skin naturally has a pH between 5.5-6.5 so applying a solution with a really low, acidic pH can sometimes cause your skin to become red, irritated and dry/flaky.
NEVER a good thing. L-ascorbic acid is highly unstable L-ascorbic acid is highly unstable. What this means is that it when it's exposed to light, oxygen or heat it oxidises and looses its effectiveness. To make sure our skin receives a decent amount of topical vitamin C each time we apply our serum, quality brands use airless pumps, UV protected bottles and stable forms of vitamin C so there is minimal risk of oxidisation. You're losing out on amazing key actives If you were to make your own vitamin C serum, you'd probably just use a base of water and glycerin then just add the L-abscorbic acid into the mix. However, antioxidants work so much better as a team. In particular, vitamin C that has shown to be much more effective when combined with other antioxidants; retinol, vitamin E and ferulic acid. What's your favourite vitamin C serums for plumping and smoothing the skin? Have you attempted to make you own serum at home and later regretted it? Let me know in the comments below!