Edit ArticleHow to Replace a Door Sill Two Methods:Replacing a Metal Door SillReplacing a Wooden ThresholdCommunity Q&A The door sill, or threshold, is the bottom portion of your exterior door frame. It helps to keep the elements out and provides a seal, as well as a place to step as you enter the home. These thresholds wear out over time, because of foot traffic and exposure to the weather. Replace them as needed to help keep your home's exterior in good condition. Some door sills are made of brass or other cast metal that is screwed into place. Measure the existing door threshold for length and width. Purchase a metal sill of the same size and shape. Use a variable speed drill fitted with a screwdriver bit to remove the screws anchoring the threshold into place. Use a utility knife to cut through any caulk on the front and back edges of the sill. Place the end of a pry bar beneath the threshold and pull up on the bar to pull the old threshold away from the door frame.
Lay the new threshold out on a flat surface and place the old one on top of it. Use a pencil to trace the shape of the ends of the old threshold onto the new one. Remove the old threshold and screw the new threshold down onto a work table to keep it from moving. Use a jigsaw to cut out the shape of the door jambs from the ends of the new threshold. Test the fit of the new threshold beneath the door and make sure the door closes over it. Screw the new threshold into place. Run a bead of waterproof caulk along the front and back edges of the threshold to help seal it into place. Other than metal thresholds, the most commonly used material for a door sill is a hardwood like oak. Wooden thresholds often come in standard lengths that can be trimmed to size on site. Remove the door casings on either side of the doorway. Insert the end of a pry bar behind the casings and gently tug them free. Use a circular saw to cut the threshold into three pieces.
Cut the rest of the way through the threshold with a handsaw for control. Insert a pry bar beneath each section of the threshold and pull it free. Measure the length of the door sill and ensure that the new threshold is of equal size. Slide the new threshold into place to ensure that it fits. Paint the new threshold with a water and UV proof stain to help protect it from the elements. Slide the new threshold back into place. Drill pilot holes into the threshold that are slightly smaller than the finish nails that will hold it in place. Hammer in the finish nails to hold the threshold in place. Fill the nail holes with wood putty. Reattach the casings on either side of the doorway. Hammer the finish nails back into place to reinstall the casings. Make sure you inspect the toe kick and casings as you replace the threshold. If they are rotting, purchase new ones cut to the same measurements as the sill and install them at the same time.
Beneath some thresholds is a portion of the door frame known as the sub sill. Check the sub sill as well as you install the sill above it to ensure that it is in good condition. Always make sure you replace the sill with one of the same size and shape, including thickness. Sills come in all shapes and sizes; your door may not close properly if you use a different sort. BUYING DOOR KNOBS – THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW Door knobs sound like a straightforward item to purchase, but there are some pitfalls and things you need to know and consider before buying. Door knobs that are designed to turn are sold in pairs with a connecting spindle, normally with the screw fixings required to attach them to the face of the door. The Latch or Lock Mechanism For your knobs to turn they will need a lock or latch mechanism. These should be purchased separately to suit the door knobs, or you may already have these in your doors. There are two types of mechanism. Most common is a mortise lock or latch, which is set into the edge of the door.
The other traditional option is a rim lock or latch, which is a surface mounted box, these are often decorative. Rim Knobs or Mortise Knobs If you have a mortise type latch/lock, then all our door knobs will fit. If you have a rim latch/lock, only selected rim knobs will suit. The functionality is indicated in the product description on our website. Rim knobs require loose backplates, as normally only one backplate is used on the non rim lock side of the door. Mortise only door knobs have backplates which are fixed to the door knob part and are generally attached to the door face using fixing screws. Door knobs require a deeper setback than door handles. The setback is the distance from the edge of the door to the centre of the hole in the latch/lock which the interconnecting spindle passes through. You must ensure you have enough space to fit 50% of the knob diameter plus finger room, when the door is closed into the rebate. Tight spacing is a problem which must be avoided (apart from damaged fingers) it is a sign of shoddy building work.
If you are buying a new lock/latch this should be easy to get right. If you have existing spindle holes, you can cut a paper template of the door knob diameter, stick it on your door and check the spacing. Door handles require less setback and so it is normally not possible to replace door handles with door knobs without a change to the mechanism and all that this entails. The spindle bar goes into the back of one door knob, through the mechanism and into the back of the other one. Spindles can vary in their design, especially for rim knobs. Modern (post metric) spindles are a standard 8mm square section bar and this is what fits through standard locks and latches. Old latches/locks may have an imperial spindle size. This can be a problem as the metric standard is very slightly larger and the spindle is too fat to fit through the hole. The simple way around this (which saves replacing all the old mechanisms) is to file around the spindle hole in the latch/lock until it fits. We often meet this problem and this is the easiest and best solution.
Imperial/ metric sizing is an issue if you are buying reclaimed door knobs, as spindles and holes in the back of knobs will not fit modern metric fittings. Inside the latch mechanism is a spring which door knobs rely on to return them after turning. Some modern door knobs have a spring in the backplate of the knob itself, these are called sprung door knobs. Ours all rely on the spring in the latch doing the work and are unsprung. The spring in latch must therefore be heavy duty. Cheap latches from DIY sheds will not be man enough for the job unless they are labelled Heavy Duty. In our range we have pairs of door knobs between 42 and 75mm in diameter. On a modern standard door (1980 x 760mm) a 50mm diameter knob is normally about right. Large internal and external doors can take a larger diameter, up to 75mm. The size which is right for your door depends upon the size of the door and how much presence you want the knob to have. We recommend making a paper template to help determine this.
If you are not sure, you can purchase samples. Click this link to go to another post “How to select the right size door knobs” We have styles in the range from all periods in time. You need to think about whether you are trying to keep your house in period, or perhaps you want to go for the ones you like best. If you have a Georgian property, consider Bloxwich and Octagonal styles. For Victorian, the beehive would be the most traditional. Edwardian, look to the Classic Oval and Classic round and any wooden door knobs. We also have a wonderful collection of Art Deco door furniture. You may want to consider the same door knobs throughout your house, but do not be afraid to have one style downstairs and another up. This would have been very common, as downstairs doors would often be larger and would be where visitors would see and use the door knobs. Door knobs have been made over the years in lots of different materials. The choice you have is wide, brass, nickel, chrome, wood, glass, iron etc.
Your decision may be determined by the period of your property, your interior scheme or your personal preference. If you want to add colour consider glass or porcelain. If you want to go with the period, brass and porcelain were most popular in Victorian times, wooden door knobs were popular in Edwardian houses and when we hit Art Deco look to polished nickel or chrome. By far the most popular material is brass and all our brassware is sold unlacquered – the way it always was. Door Knobs which are not required to turn If you do not want a turning door knob and want it as a pull there are a few options. There are large door pulls for external doors which are sold singly and fixed with a bolt from the rear. For cupboard doors you can use cupboard knobs, again these are fixed with a bolt from the rear. Another option is that you can use a 1/2 pair of mortise door knobs (ones with backplates fixed to the door knobs) and just screw to the door face, discarding the spindle. This is useful if you want the same look on cupboard doors as on your main doors.