Get a FREE no-obligation quote Request an appointment with a local consultant to view samples of our wide range of styles and designs and discuss your exact requirements. Why choose an Everest Entrance Door? When choosing an Everest Door, you can rest assured your doors offer the following benefits: Great choice of materials - uPVC, timber, aluminium and GRP options Triple glazing option making your home up to 35% more energy efficient Among the most secure on the market exceeding British Security Standards Energy efficient with A+ ratings - our uPVC Casement Door is rated A+21, the warmest and safest available Light with strong aluminium frames perfect for smaller doors Top quality timber via Softwood and Hardwood options, which can be painted or stained More secure with features including toughened safety glass, security hinges, hook-bolts and multi-point locking to ensure enhanced security Made to measure for a perfect fit – we’re far less tolerant on gaps than other suppliers, so we use a product specific trim around the edge of the doors for a neater finish
Lifetime guarantees against fog and condensation on uPVC, aluminium and GRP entrance doors, with comprehensive guarantees across our entire doors range Everest provides both front and back doors, offering you the best in design and security for your home. Everest Entrance Doors are... Our entrance doors have been expertly designed to keep out unwanted noises and draughts, so your home stays warm and quiet. All our entrance doors feature toughened safety glass, security hinges, hook-bolts and multi-point locking to ensure your home is always secure. Our uPVC, timber and GRP entrance doors come with lifetime gurantees against fog and condesnation, and we offer comprehensive guarantees across our entire range of doors. Find out more about our popular entrance doors options Add a touch of period authenticity with Georgian bars. They can be placed in an arrangement to suit your taste, and the bar edges can be smooth or classically contoured. Many of our uPVC doors can be advanced even further with our triple-glazed glass option, helping to make your home up to 35% more energy efficient than standard double glazing.
And our GRP doors feature triple glazing as standard. View our entrance doors gallery Our latest customer reviews We'd love to tell you more This page has been archived and is no longer updated. How secure are your doors? If you are unsure whether your front door, back door or patio doors are secure enough to prevent intruders, use this quick checklist to find out how safe they really are . • Five lever mortice deadlock (if door over 44mm) – check they are British Standard 3621 or European Standard EN12209 • Avoid glazed panels, replace with toughened glass or laminated glass panels • Fit a spy hole • Fit a door chain or limiter • Check hinges are secure - use good long screws and consider hinge bolts • Install them no closer than 400 mm from the door lock • Never fit a letter box to the bottom rail of a door • Consider an internal cover plate or letter basket (with the bottom removed to prevent mail theft)
• Use 5 lever 2 bolt sash lock halfway up the door (British Standard 3621 European Standard EN 12209) • Supplement sash lock with mortice rack bolts at the top and bottom of the door • Avoid glass panels, use laminated panels fitted from the inside and consider grilles as well French doors (a burglar's favourite!) • Use mortice rack bolts • Or, consider surface-mounted locking bolts • For extra security, consider mortice sash locks • If your doors open outwards, use hinge bolts Patio doors (a burglar's favourite!) • Use extra locks if not fitted with a multi-locking system • Anti-lift devices to avoid door being lifted from its track More ways to protect your doors Dave Stokes, a member of the Master Locksmith Association, recommends the following security measures: • British standard nightlatch - this is used to make sure the lock is dead locked • Mortice deadlock - Frameguard: London bar: fits round the yale lock and straight down frame.
Brum bar: flat strip lock in the middle of the door frame • Hinge bolts: fit a hinge side below and above hinges of wooden doors • Lock guard over mortice lock. This prevents door from splitting out (stops anyone being able to jam door) • Multi-lock three point locking system, 2 hooks, 1 top and bottom of the frame, with a latch and deadlock in the middle of the door • You can't fit anymore locks to UPVC doors due to the structure of the door • Consider using a small window alarm which beeps when you enter the room • Letterbox cage: fits to the back of a letterbox, needs a padlock to keep it secured • Letterbox homeguard: which is made of a fire retardant material. So can resist fire if a firework is put through the door, and also blocks people getting in • Do not leave keys hanging inside the letterbox, under plant pots or doormats – these are the first places a burglar will check • Locks and bolts are only as good as the doors they are fitted to.
Make sure weak rotten woodwork is replaced, and that the frame is well fixed. More information on door security from the Met Police - www.met.police.uk/crimeprevention/doors.htm Master Locksmiths Association – www.locksmiths.co.uk The BBC is not responsible for the content of external internet sites. Series 3, Episode 20 Call Crimestoppers anonymously anytime on 0800 555 111 Crimestoppers is an independent charity helping to find criminals and help solve crimes. Call Victim Support on 0845 30 30 900 Victim Support is the independent charity which helps people cope with the effects of crime. BBC iD Settings Sign out BBC navigation News Sport Weather iPlayer TV Radio More… Letter boxes / plates should be considered as an aperture which can be used by the criminal, either to extract goods from within in close proximity to the door, commonly door keys, or to work vulnerable locking devices from the inside. Letter plates should conform to British Standard.
They should be positioned not closer then 400 mm from the door lock and under no circumstances should they be fitted to the bottom rail of the door. An internal cover plate offers additional security, as does a letter basket, though you might wish to consider removing the bottom, allowing the mail to fall to the floor and thus preventing theft of the mail. A rim latch (Yale type) on its own is not sufficient. The door should also be fitted preferably with a 5 lever mortice deadlock, though insurance companies will accept a rim automatic deadlock; both must be to British Standard 3621 or the equivalent European Standard EN12209. Quality locks are only as strong as the doors and frames to which they are attached. Ensure that the frame is sound and the door suitable for external use; for instance, a wooden hollow core door would not be suitable. It should be of substantial construction, at least 44mm (13/4") thick to support the mortice lock and hung on three strong 100mm (4") hinges.
The rim latch and the mortice should be fitted 45 to 60cm (18-24") apart. In the door itself recessed or decorative panels should be a minimum of 9mm (1/3") thick. Consider fitting a London Bar (metal strip on frame side) to support the strike box, or Birmingham bar to support the frame on the hinge side. If the door is weak consider fitting a sheet steel plate or door reinforcer on the outside covering the lock area. Timber frames should be sound and securely bolted or screwed to the the walls every 600mm (23") around the whole frame. Doors with glazed panels are inherently less secure than solid doors, hence the need for a deadlock. Consider replacing ordinary or toughened glass panels with laminated glass - two pieces of glass bonded together with a sheet of laminate - as they offer much greater resistance to attack. For added safety and security fit a spy hole and door chain or limiter. These will enable you to deal with callers to your front door whilst retaining a level of security.
UPVC/PVCU front doors are generally unsuitable for retro-fit security devices. Not only is the material not strong enough to support devices fitted with steel screws unless secured into the internal metal framework, but such changes to the original design may invalidate an existing warranty or possibly damage the integral locking assembly. If in doubt, consult the installer/manufacturer. Modern designs will usually incorporate deadlock shoot bolts or a multi-point locking system, both throwing a number of bolts from the door into the frame. Under these circumstances there will not normally be any need for additional devices. Advice on front door security while the house is occupied will vary, depending on whom you speak to. Fire Safety Officers will advise that, for safety reasons, the mortice deadbolt should not be engaged when the house is occupied, as locating and engaging the key can cause unnecessary delay in escaping from the scene of a fire. Crime Prevention Officers may suggest that a rim latch on its own is insufficient in providing adequate security and that engaging the lock would increase this, as well as the safety of young children in preventing them from wandering.
Clearly these are issues which need to be considered. If you feel fire safety is the priority, additional security can be obtained by fitting draw bolts to the top and bottom of the door. The door should be fitted with a 5 lever 2 bolt mortice sash lock halfway up the door, (a deadlock with a handle for convenience). Unlike front doors, many insurance companies do not specify that they should be to British Standard 3621 or equivalent European Standard EN 12209, though the use of this standard of lock is recommended. The sash lock should be supplemented by mortice rack bolts (bolts fitted approximately 150mm (6") from the top and bottom of the door into the wood and operated internally) or surface-mounted locking bolts top and bottom. They should always be fitted at 90º to the grain of the wood, reducing the likelihood of the wood splitting if subjected to pressure. Any glass panels should be laminated and fitted from the inside to prevent the putty or beading being removed.
Grilles could also be fitted to the inside of the panels. Also known as French windows, they are intrinsically less secure than single leaf doors, which may reflect on their comparative lack of popularity as compared with the modern patio door. However, this need not be the case provided that suitable security measures are taken. Both doors should be fitted with mortice rack bolts (bolts fitted within the door and operated internally by a threaded key). They should always be fitted at 90 º to the grain of the wood, reducing the likelihood of the wood splitting if subjected to pressure. Alternatively, use surface-mounted locking bolts (push to lock, key to open). Whichever type you use, fit top and bottom to provide rigidity. If the style of door is capable of it, a mortice sash lock can be fitted for extra security (rebate sets may also be required). As most French Doors are outward opening, the addition of hinge bolts is also recommended. They should be located 100-150mm (4-6") below the top hinge and similarly above the bottom.
Note: It would be acceptable, for insurance purposes, for key operated bolts only to be fitted top and bottom of both doors. Consider replacing ordinary or toughened glass panels with laminated glass - two pieces of glass bonded together with a sheet of laminate - as they offer much greater resistance to attack. UPVC/PVCU French doors are generally unsuitable for retro-fit security devices. Entry through a patio door is a common means of entry and therefore, unless the doors are fitted with a multi-locking system, it is best to fit extra locks. These are fitted on the bottom fixed frame pushing through to the sliding frame in the centre and on the side frame at the opening point no lower than a third of the way from the top of the door. Most such locks are push to lock and key to open and are therefore easy to use. Make sure there is enough frame to fit them on if drilling is required. If in doubt, consult the installer or manufacturer. A dual screw can be fitted between both frames but it is more awkward to use, so there can be a tendency to leave it unlocked, thus defeating the object.