- Does your pvc door catch on the frame. - On the side or the bottom- Does it get worse when the sun is shining- The darker colours and timber effects can be worst than white pvc as they attract more heat Once your door does drop or sag it can also effect how your lock works. If you have a multi point lock where you have to lift the handle to operate the lock. This action can get harder to do because your lock is now out of line due to your door sagging. This can happen to a lot of pvc doors over time. The most common cause is that the hinges just need to be adjusted. Plus it can get worse if the sun is shining on the door because pvc expands with heat. To adjust hinges is an easy job which can be carried out by almost anyone. In most cases all that is needed is a set of Allen keys & a screwdriver Below is a guide on how to adjust some of the main door hinges used by window companies Flag Hinge : One of the most common hinges used in the UK & Ireland is the flag hinge.
This hinge has 3 different adjustments. The first one is on the bottom if you use your Hex key and turn the screw on the bottom it will lift your door. The second is on the top first you will have to clip of a pvc cap than you will see the screw if you turn this it will tighten the door sash against the frame given you a tighter seal. This is needed sometimes because as time goes on you seal may shrink or flatten a small bit. So you use this adjustment to make sure you don't start getting a draught through your door.The last one is on the side if you look into the hole on the side you will see a screw which will take a 5mm hex key. Turn the screw one way and the door sash will move to the left and turn it the other way and the door moves to the right.There are many different types of flag hinges but they all work in the same way. They may just look a bit different. T -Hinge : This is another type of hinge used on pvc doors. It has only 2 types of adjustments. The first one is on the top & bottom and this will tighten the seal against the frame.
The other one in on the side and this will move it left or right depending on the way you turn the screw Butt Hinge : This hinge comes with only one adjustment. If you look at the side you will see a philips head screw. If you turn this it will move the door left or right. But before you try to turn this screw check to see if there is a small grub screw as this locks the hinge in place so the door won't move. Not all butt hinges have this but the door won't move unless you loosen this. Plus a lot of the older Butt hinges have no adjustment at all. If this is the case you will have to reline the hinges. If you have tried adjusting the door hinges but your door is still catching. Than maybe you need new hinges. Remember new hinges don't cost a lot and are not to hard to replace. Most window companies will do this for you and it won't cost the earth. But just to be safe it is better to ring at least two company's to get prices Feel free to ask any questions by posting them in the comment box below
User ReviewedHow to Repair a Loose Wood Screw Hole for a Hinge 13 Methods:Drilling Out the Stripped HoleRelocating the HingeUsing a ShimUsing Over-Sized ScrewsUsing Wood GlueUsing a Sheet-Rock AnchorUsing PineUsing Decking ScrewsUsing Steel WoolUsing a Golf TeeUsing Toilet Paper and GlueUsing a Power DrillUsing OilCommunity Q&A Do you have a wood screw hole for a hinge that is loose? Here are a few quick suggestions on how to go about doing this type of repair yourself. Drill out the stripped hole and glue in a dowel the same diameter as the drill bit. If door sag has been a problem, drill through the jamb, any shims behind the jamb, and into the door framing studs. This gives you a dowelled connection all the way back to the wall framing that will be suitable for a long wooden screw. Glue, then cut the dowel off flush with the edge of the door or hinge mortise and pilot drill for the screw after the glue sets. Relocate the hinge just a little up or down. This may require re-chiseling the pocket in the frame and on the door;
then filling with plastic wood and touching up the paint. This is probably the most labor intensive fix. Suggest you try this when all else fails. Wedge a shim into the hole (a toothpick or wooden matchstick, for example) but it probably won't hold for long. You may be tempted to try this, but for a hinge, you really need holding power. For example, a longer screw (2-1/2" ( 6.35 cm) to replace a 1-1/2" (3.8 cm)) or a thicker screw (#8 in place of #6). Make sure that the screw head won't stick out and interfere with operation of the door by causing binding or scarring the frame. Coat a shim or plug with wood glue and wedge it into the hole. After the glue dries, re-mount the hinge. Re-drilling a pilot hole into the shim might be helpful in keeping the screw in line with the hinge plate. Use a sheet-rock anchor. However, like the shim-only method (no glue), this might not last for very long. Take a small piece of pine, (1/4" (1/2 cm ) cm) x 1/4") and, using a sharp knife, whittle it to a point.
Put a dab of wood glue on the point and tap it into place lightly, with a hammer. Once you have the whittled pine sitting snugly in the hole, use a sharp chisel to slice the pine flush with the hole. Make sure that the glue has dried, then place the hinge back where it belongs and mark the hole with a pencil. Use a small finish nail or drill with a small drill bit (smaller than the diameter of the screw) to create a pilot hole for the hinge screw.Probably the most permanent way is to use decking screws about 5 inches (12.5 cm) long, especially if it is an exterior door. Check to be sure the the heads are the same size as this will keep them from protruding and keeping the door from closing fully. Using the existing holes, run the extra long screws through the jamb and into the 2 x 4" (5 x 10 cm) framing stud inside the wall. This will permanently anchor the door into place and will last for many years. The reason for the extra long screws is that they have to pass through the jamb and through a couple of inches of empty space before hitting the framing stud in the wall.
This is so effective that it is generally only necessary to use a couple of the decking screws per hinge. Stuff steel wool into the hole with screwdriver. Fill the hole almost completely. Screw the screw into the hole. Drive a golf tee into the old hole and use a chisel or cut it flush. Use wood glue for a more permanent fix. Mix one or two sheets of toilet paper with Elmer's Glue, e.g. using a small cup and a screwdriver. The paper disintegrates easily, and the mixture can resemble modeling clay with the right amount of glue. Stuff the mixture into the hole, e.g. with a nail head, before it sets and make a pilot hole with the nail. Before the unused mixture has hardened completely, drive the screw partially into the pilot hole, then remove the screw and allow the material to harden further for an hour or two. The dried material is firmly bonded and holds screws as well as the original wood. This procedure also works well for filling holes in wallboard. Just use a 2 inch long, self-drilling screw with a power drill.
Drill the screw at an angle, I.E. slightly up or slightly down. I have been fixing doors this way for twenty-five years and have never broken a jam or had the door come off again. Do not put the screw in at an angle more than 20 degrees or the head of the screw will stick out and prevent the hinge from closing (but you can file the screw down so it will not hit with an attachment that goes on the drill). I usually put the screws in at about a 10 or 15 degree angle so they will not prevent the hinge from closing. Many times you can use longer a 3 inch, self drilling screw right in the old hole without having to go in at an angle. I have used 2, 3, 4, 5 and even 6 inch screws in old jams. Since I learned this, I have never replaced a jam. I buy the screws in one pound boxes but I use so many 2 inch, self drilling screws to fix doors that I buy them in five pound boxes. Be sure and replace all three screws where the problem is so that it will really hold well (permanently). With the self drilling screws and an electric drill, you can fix the door really fast (in minutes).
This method is good for a first time repair. Coat the inside of the hole with lite oil, but don't overdo it. Let it soak into the wood for a few hours. When drilling a pilot (starter) hole for a wood screw in a hinge, use a self-centering drill bit (one brand name is Vix Bit). They ensure a perfectly centered hole. If the hole isn't centered the screw will go in crooked and leave the screw head a little protruded. This could prevent the door from shutting properly. There is a file attachment that goes on the power drill. You can use this attachment to file down the head of the screw if it prevents the hinge from closing. This can be done with the screw in the door. Use a dial caliper that probes to gauge the depth of the hole for pre-cutting a dowel filler. This way you don't have to cut flush against the mortise or jamb. If you have an automatic closer on your door, install a foot to hold it open or use a wedge at the floor. Don't place a wedge at the top corner of the door above the hinge, between the edge of the door and frame, as it will stress the screws in the top hinge and cause them to fail.