Secure yourself some savings & gain a toolbox of benefits, including: Exclusive low, trade only prices Re-purchase previous orders instantly Free UK delivery on all products uPVC Door Handle No. 1 Please note: If you wish to order more than 1 handle set, we cannot send these by Royal Mail. These items will be sent via Fedex. A - Centres : 92mm B - Length : 205mm C - Width : 26mm D - Screws : 2 E - Bottom Screw : 28mm F - Between Screws : 123mm G - Spindle Size : 8mm Learn More Versa Retrofit Adjustable Door Handle for Multipoint / uPVC Door Locks A truly versatile multipoint lock door handle that will replace the majority of existing handles on the market. The handles slide to vary the PZ to suit the lock concerned Available in white, polished chrome, PVD gold, and satin chrome Adjustable between 60mm and 92mm PZ Suits both solid spindle left lever and split spindle functions uPVC Door Handle No. 2
B - Length : 295mm C - Width : 32mm E - Bottom Screw : 27mm F - Between Screws : 265mm G - Spindle Size : 8mm uPVC Door Handle No. 5 B - Length : 210mm C - Width : 30mm F - Between Screws : 165mm uPVC Door Handle No. 7 B - Length : 238mm E - Bottom Screw : 30mm F - Between Screws : 210mm uPVC Door Handle No. 8 B - Length : 240mm E - Bottom Screw : 25mm F - Between Screws : 216mm uPVC Door Handle No. 10 B - Length : 220mm F - Between Screws : 122mm uPVC Door Handle No. 11 - **High Security** C - Width : 35mm Enhanced security door handles. Protect against Handle Snapping, Cylinder Snapping, Cylinder Drilling. Meets PAS24 and Secured by Design Learn More uPVC Door Handle No. 12 - **High Security** E - Bottom Screw : 19mm F - Between Screws : 212mm uPVC Door Handle No. 16 B - Length : 245mm E - Bottom Screw : 15mm F - Between Screws : 200mm uPVC Door Handle No. 19
This item is now obselete, the nearest replacement for this is the uPVC Door Handle #5 Learn More uPVC Door Handle No. 20 B - Length : 270mm E - Bottom Screw : 17mm F - Between Screws : 240mm ERA Vectis 92mm Door Handle A - Centres : 92mmB - Length : 221mmC - Width : 32mmD - Screws : 2E - Bottom Screw : 35mmF - Between Screws : 122mmG - Spindle Size : 8mm Learn MoreUPVC and Composite Door Handles PVC Door Handles are replacement door handles for plastic doors. are sectioned into pz measurements, which is the size from the centre of the spindle hole to the centre of the round hole in the euro shape. The guide on the left can help you understand how to measure door handles. The most important measurement is the PZ measurement (labelled 'A' on the diagram). This is crucial andThe fixing screw centres (labelled 'D' on the diagram)These need to line up with your existing fixingTheoretically you can use other holes but it is important to try to match these as not all lock cases offer the same
design footprint in terms of where screws can pass through. the measurements should be fairly self-explanatory! Some of Our Customers.. Head of the tech team, and locksmith of 25+ years Specialises in Ironmongery & Door Furnishing Deals with Sales on the .co.uk website Ensures day-to-day logistics run smoothly Handles our social media and marketing Our web developer and content manager£18.99Buy it now watching | View detailsCondition:NewTime left:7d 4h 10mUser ReviewedHow to Repair a Loose Wood Screw Hole for a Hinge 13 Methods:Drilling Out the Stripped HoleRelocating the HingeUsing a ShimUsing Over-Sized ScrewsUsing Wood GlueUsing a Sheet-Rock AnchorUsing PineUsing Decking ScrewsUsing Steel WoolUsing a Golf TeeUsing Toilet Paper and GlueUsing a Power DrillUsing OilCommunity Q&A Do you have a wood screw hole for a hinge that is loose? Here are a few quick suggestions on how to go about doing this type of repair yourself. Drill out the stripped hole and glue in a dowel the same diameter as the drill bit.
If door sag has been a problem, drill through the jamb, any shims behind the jamb, and into the door framing studs. This gives you a dowelled connection all the way back to the wall framing that will be suitable for a long wooden screw. Glue, then cut the dowel off flush with the edge of the door or hinge mortise and pilot drill for the screw after the glue sets. Relocate the hinge just a little up or down. This may require re-chiseling the pocket in the frame and on the door; then filling with plastic wood and touching up the paint. This is probably the most labor intensive fix. Suggest you try this when all else fails. Wedge a shim into the hole (a toothpick or wooden matchstick, for example) but it probably won't hold for long. You may be tempted to try this, but for a hinge, you really need holding power. For example, a longer screw (2-1/2" ( 6.35 cm) to replace a 1-1/2" (3.8 cm)) or a thicker screw (#8 in place of #6). Make sure that the screw head won't stick out and interfere with operation of the door by causing binding or scarring the frame.
Coat a shim or plug with wood glue and wedge it into the hole. After the glue dries, re-mount the hinge. Re-drilling a pilot hole into the shim might be helpful in keeping the screw in line with the hinge plate. Use a sheet-rock anchor. However, like the shim-only method (no glue), this might not last for very long. Take a small piece of pine, (1/4" (1/2 cm ) cm) x 1/4") and, using a sharp knife, whittle it to a point. Put a dab of wood glue on the point and tap it into place lightly, with a hammer. Once you have the whittled pine sitting snugly in the hole, use a sharp chisel to slice the pine flush with the hole. Make sure that the glue has dried, then place the hinge back where it belongs and mark the hole with a pencil. Use a small finish nail or drill with a small drill bit (smaller than the diameter of the screw) to create a pilot hole for the hinge screw.Probably the most permanent way is to use decking screws about 5 inches (12.5 cm) long, especially if it is an exterior door.
Check to be sure the the heads are the same size as this will keep them from protruding and keeping the door from closing fully. Using the existing holes, run the extra long screws through the jamb and into the 2 x 4" (5 x 10 cm) framing stud inside the wall. This will permanently anchor the door into place and will last for many years. The reason for the extra long screws is that they have to pass through the jamb and through a couple of inches of empty space before hitting the framing stud in the wall. This is so effective that it is generally only necessary to use a couple of the decking screws per hinge. Stuff steel wool into the hole with screwdriver. Fill the hole almost completely. Screw the screw into the hole. Drive a golf tee into the old hole and use a chisel or cut it flush. Use wood glue for a more permanent fix. Mix one or two sheets of toilet paper with Elmer's Glue, e.g. using a small cup and a screwdriver. The paper disintegrates easily, and the mixture can resemble modeling clay with the right amount of glue.
Stuff the mixture into the hole, e.g. with a nail head, before it sets and make a pilot hole with the nail. Before the unused mixture has hardened completely, drive the screw partially into the pilot hole, then remove the screw and allow the material to harden further for an hour or two. The dried material is firmly bonded and holds screws as well as the original wood. This procedure also works well for filling holes in wallboard. Just use a 2 inch long, self-drilling screw with a power drill. Drill the screw at an angle, I.E. slightly up or slightly down. I have been fixing doors this way for twenty-five years and have never broken a jam or had the door come off again. Do not put the screw in at an angle more than 20 degrees or the head of the screw will stick out and prevent the hinge from closing (but you can file the screw down so it will not hit with an attachment that goes on the drill). I usually put the screws in at about a 10 or 15 degree angle so they will not prevent the hinge from closing.
Many times you can use longer a 3 inch, self drilling screw right in the old hole without having to go in at an angle. I have used 2, 3, 4, 5 and even 6 inch screws in old jams. Since I learned this, I have never replaced a jam. I buy the screws in one pound boxes but I use so many 2 inch, self drilling screws to fix doors that I buy them in five pound boxes. Be sure and replace all three screws where the problem is so that it will really hold well (permanently). With the self drilling screws and an electric drill, you can fix the door really fast (in minutes). This method is good for a first time repair. Coat the inside of the hole with lite oil, but don't overdo it. Let it soak into the wood for a few hours. When drilling a pilot (starter) hole for a wood screw in a hinge, use a self-centering drill bit (one brand name is Vix Bit). They ensure a perfectly centered hole. If the hole isn't centered the screw will go in crooked and leave the screw head a little protruded.