Yale DDL - Card, Key, Pin Code Lockwood Door Closer 7714 Series Schlage Sense Keypad Deadbolt Welcome to Joinery Hardware Thank you to all our customers, we appreciate your support Started in 2004, Joinery Hardware is now the biggest supplier of aluminium door and window hardware to trade and retail in New Zealand. We have constantly been asked to supply door and window hardware for new homes and light commercial buildings and have now added the product ranges from the following suppliers. If you cannot find a particular item in the web catalogue please contact us. Assa Abloy - Lockwood Show me more Allegion - Schlage & Legge Show me more Windsor Brass Show me more Yale Digital Door Lock The Yale Digital Door Lock is a premium proximity card Digital Door Lock with anti-panic egress function. Various Access - by proximity card identification, PIN code or key for your convenience Easy registration of cards Safe handle (ideal for small children)
Low battery warning and emergency power contacts Folding Team Rank: 121 Work Units / Feb Select All Posts By This User I've seen a few posts on what they are, how you remove them, replace them, etc around the past week or so so heres a quick little post on rivets guys. Hope this helps anyone wanting (or thinking about) taking their case apart or affixing new peices. This post was taken and tweaked from my current build log. Hope this is helpful to someone! These are the rivets you'll find in PC cases, pop-rivets. (In this picture) the top part above the 'head' is the actual rivet. The long piece behind that is what the rivet gun clamps onto. It pulls this rod down (or up, however you look at it) to the 'head' The end of the rod is larger than the sleeve of the rivet, thus making it buldge or split as the rod is pulled. This swells the rivet larger than the hole and holds the pieces you are riveting together. I found a good .gif of this. With the rivet gun.
Here you can see a rivet gun and the rivet. It pulls the rod into the 'sleeve' of the rivet and pulls the pieces tight. Once the rivet is tight the end of the rob breaks off and you are left with what you see on your case. Just a quick cut-away of the used rivet. So thats what is left. Just the top of the rivet and the bulged out bottom. To take a rivet off you simply find a drill bit a little larger than the hole in the head. All you are actually doing is drilling the head of the rivet off, thus in turn the back falls of and the pieces you are de-riveting is free. Here you can see me drilling the head out. Also on the bit is a previously drilled rivet head. Don't worry, they always stick on the drill-bit like that,lol. Just take a pair are pliers, grip the leftover heads, and reverse the drill. Nice clean bit again! Now we've drilled through the head and the bit actually (generally will) push the back half of the rivet off. One clean hole ready for a new rivet!
And here is a rivet gun and rivet. Just put the new rivet in the hole, slide the gun over the top (the rod that sticks out) and clamp the handle down. You'll probably have to clamp it twice, just let the handle go, slide the gun down again, and regrip the handle. The gun has a pair of 'teeth' in the top and grips the rod and pulls it, thats how it works. / search for item number 6659A23 If you have any questions feel free to post here and me or some of the more advanced modders will be happy to help! CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAMAMD FX 8320 SABERTOOTH 990FX ASUS R9 270X G.Skill Ripjaw Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOSCrucial m4 320GB WD Caviar Blue Samsung DVD-RW Windows 7 Pro x64 MonitorKeyboardPowerCase24' Asus Razer Black Widow Corsair TX750w Silentium - custom acrylic case MouseMouse PadCyborg RAT 7 In-Win Batmat View all CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAMAMD FX 8320 SABERTOOTH 990FX ASUS R9 270X G.Skill Ripjaw Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOSCrucial m4 320GB WD Caviar Blue Samsung DVD-RW Windows 7 Pro x64 MonitorKeyboardPowerCase24' Asus Razer Black Widow Corsair TX750w Silentium - custom acrylic case MouseMouse PadCyborg RAT 7 In-Win Batmat View all
--as in life--it's often the little things that matter. And it's amazing how many small structural things can go wrong around your house. Whether it's the front-door lock that won't let you into your own home, or the cracked window that won't keep the cold out, small household problems can have a big effect. For most of these, there's no need to call for a repairman-- the solution lies in tapping your ingenuity and using a few common household materials in innovative ways. Even when it seems that the roof is falling in--or the floor is opening up beneath you--there are often simple ways to solve larger problems on your own.The bedroom door sticks every time it's opened or closed, but the idea of repeatedly hanging and planing or sanding what you think are the trouble spots seems like more work than it's worth.Tape carbon paper or another type of blued paper along the edge that is sticking. Open and close the door, and the bluing will mark the problem areas, allowing you to sand or plane exactly the points that are causing the door to stick.
This works on the side, top, or bottom.You're starting to think you live in a haunted house because every time you open the door, your entrance is announced by a squeak coming from the hinges.Just lifting the hinge pin and squirting a little oil into the hinge will work for the short run, but the squeaking will inevitably return. To ensure long-lasting silence, tap the hinge pin out of the hinge and coat the pin with white lithium grease. Tap the pin back in place and test the door. The door should open and close silently, although you may have to lubricate both top and bottom hinges.Privacy's at stake when the bathroom door is out of kilter and binds on one corner.Close the door and inspect the clearance along the sides and top to see if it's misaligned in the frame. Check the hinge mortises to see if one is deeper than the other. If so, install a thin cardboard shim or playing card under the hinge leave to adjust the alignment. If necessary, add more shims until the door swings freely.
A sliding glass door that doesn't stay in its track is more than a minor annoyance, it's a safety hazard.First, check if the door has adjustable rollers and adjust to improve the door's action. The metal guides that contain most sliding glass doors can get bent out of shape by daily wear and tear. Badly bent or flattened guides will allow the door to slide out of the track and badly damaged tracks need to be reformed into their original shape. Use a scrap piece of lumber (or a large building block from a child's wood block set) that is just thick enough to fit into the slot of the tracks. Secure the wood in place and use a mallet to pound the track guides back into their correct position.Every house has one, a door that slowly drifts shut every time you try to leave it open.Rather than resetting the hinges or propping it open with a potted plant, remove one of the hinge pins, lay it on a hard surface, and strike it lightly with a hammer until the hinge pin has a slight bend. Tap the pin back in place.