BACKGROUND: Aging of the population, in particular the "baby boomers," has resulted in increased interest in methods of reversal of photodamage. Non-invasive treatments are in high demand, and our knowledge of mechanisms of photodamage to skin, protection of the skin, and repair of photodamage are becoming more sophisticated and complex.OBJECTIVE: The objective of this study is to determine if the topical use of a vitamin C preparation can stimulate the skin to repair photodamage and result in clinically visible differences, as well as microscopically visible improvement.METHODS: Ten patients applied in a double-blind manner a newly formulated vitamin C complex having 10% ascorbic acid (water soluble) and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (lipid soluble) in an anhydrous polysilicone gel base to one-half of the face and the inactive polysilicone gel base to the opposite side. Clincial evaluation of wrinkling, pigmentation, inflammation, and hydration was performed prior to the study and at weeks 4, 8, and 12.
Two mm punch biopsies of the lateral cheeks were performed at 12 weeks in four patients and stained with hematoxylin and eosin, as well as in situ hybridization studies using an anti-sense probe for mRNA for type I collagen. A questionnaire was also completed by each patient.RESULTS: A statistically significant improvement of the vitamin C-treated side was seen in the decreased photoaging scores of the cheeks (P = 0.006) and the peri-oral area (P = 0.01). The peri-orbital area improved bilaterally, probably indicating improved hydration. The overall facial improvement of the vitamin C side was statistically significant (P = 0.01). Biopsies showed increased Grenz zone collagen, as well as increased staining for mRNA for type I collagen. No patients were found to have any evidence of inflammation. Hydration was improved bilaterally. Four patients felt that the vitamin C-treated side improved unilaterally. No patient felt the placebo side showed unilateral improvement.CONCLUSION: This formulation of vitamin C results in clinically visible and statistically significant improvement in wrinkling when used topically for 12 weeks.
This clinical improvement correlates with biopsy evidence of new collagen formation.There are many forms of vitamin C, and many of them are great for skin—we’ll get to which types work best shortly. They all have potent antioxidant and anti-aging benefits that help mitigate problems both before and after they occur. When added to your daily skincare routine, well-formulated products containing vitamin C provide a range of benefits, from helping to even out your skin tone, shielding skin from the visible impact of pollution, significantly improving hydration, and keeping your skin looking younger, longer! Ascorbic acid—also known as L-ascorbic acid—has the most skin-related research of any form of vitamin C. For that reason, it’s the form of vitamin C we use most often in our Paula’s Choice Skincare products. When properly formulated (this ingredient is finicky), ascorbic acid helps create younger-looking, firmer-feeling skin while signs of uneven skin tone and spots seem to disappear.
Ascorbic acid also helps skin’s surface defend itself from external stressors, lessening the effects of exposure to the elements. There’s more: Ascorbic acid is a powerhouse when mixed with other antioxidants. That approach is the fundamental philosophy here at Paula’s Choice Skincare. One ingredient, no matter how amazing, is never enough to take the best care of your skin. We are particularly proud of our two high-concentration vitamin C products that provide targeted solutions for stubborn skincare concerns, no matter your skin type. Our RESIST 25% Vitamin C Spot Treatment can be used over problem areas and our RESIST C15 Super Booster can be used all over to refresh, visibly firm, and renew skin, with noticeable results that improve the look of skin imperfections. While we love our higher concentration vitamin C products, those with lower concentrations also provide stunning results. The higher strengths have benefits for specific concerns, but the lower strengths in some of our moisturizers, toners, and serums also help replenish skin in significant ways, and work beautifully with other beneficial ingredients.
Research has shown that vitamin C concentrations as low as 0.6% provide antioxidant and anti-aging benefits to skin. So, depending on your concerns, you may do just fine with a regular-strength vitamin C product to smooth, brighten, and replenish skin—especially if the form of vitamin C is one we discuss in the next section. Although ascorbic acid is definitely an outstanding form of vitamin C, there are other forms that also have notable research demonstrating their stability (when compared to pure ascorbic acid) and efficacy. Those forms include sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, retinyl ascorbate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl glucoside. 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid is another, although this relatively new form of vitamin C doen’t have much peer-reviewed research behind it yet. Nevertheless, all of these are worthy of your attention when included in a superior moisturizer, serum, essence, or toner. Keep in mind that all antioxidants, including pure vitamin C and its more stable variations, remain vulnerable, and will break down if routinely exposed to air and light.
That means if you want to get the best possible results from your antioxidant-enriched skincare products, then buy only those that are packaged in opaque tubes, air-restrictive bottles, or pump containers so the ingredients remain stable after you start using the product! A vitamin C product in a jar isn’t a good purchase! The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here: The same type of in-depth scientific research used to create this article is also used to formulate Paula’s Choice Skincare products. You’ll find products for all skin types and a range of concerns, from acne and sensitive skin to wrinkles, pores, and sun damage. With Paula’s Choice Skincare, you can get (and keep) the best skin of your life! See Paula's Choice Vitamin C products. References for this information: Drug Research, October 2016, ePublication Journal of the America Academy of Dermatology, November 2012, pages 1103–1024 Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, January 2012, pages 51–56 AAPS PharmSciTech, September 2011, pages 917–923