Conscious DiySpace ConsciousFoldable IslandDropleaf SectionsLeg DropleafDropleaf Table DiyNorden Gateleg TableNorden TischIkea Norden TableForwardMake your small craft area work with this space-conscious DIY foldable craft table, built from inexpensive materials or even scraps. Two fold-out gate-leg dropleaf sections create a small or large workspace, with storage in the base for a sewing machine or supplies.Have an instructable you think should be included in this collection?1×6 @ 3 feet long 1 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long 1 – 1×4 @6 feet long 1 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long 1 – 2×4 @ stud or 8 feet length 1 – 1/2″ scrap plywood for seat top, 19″ x 19″ 1 yard of fabric 1 piece of foam, 19″ x 19″ 1″ thick 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws 2 – 2×4 @ 38 1/4″ (Chair back legs) 2 – 1×4 @ 17 1/2″ (Side Aprons) 2 – 2×2 @ 17 1/4″ (Front Legs) 2 – 1×4 @ 16″ (Front/Back Aprons) 4 – 2×2 @ 4″ (Supports – both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, NOT parallel to each other)
1 – 1×2 @ 16″ (Seat Back Top) 2 – 1×6 @ 16″ (Seat Back) 2 – 1×2 @ 19″ (Longest point, one end cut at 8 degrees off square) 1 – 1×2 @ 16 3/4″ (Center Support) 1/2″ plywood @ 19″ x 19″ (Seat top) If you follow these steps carefully, you can cut back legs that are straight and symmetrically to each other. Mark the legs as shown in the diagram. The front – where the chair leg connects to the side aprons – needs to be cut in 1/4″ to account for rounded edges on 2x4s. The goal is to make as many cuts as possible with a circular saw, but you will need to finish inside cuts on the back with a jigsaw. Follow the diagram above carefully. I advise taking the scrap piece of 2×4 and cutting a leg first from it to get some practice. Once your legs are cut, lay them together, and check to make sure that the top, bottom and front sides all match. The other parts are not as significant. Sand your cuts smooth. Attach the side aprons to the back legs, flush to the bottom of the front cuts on your chair back legs.
Make sure the two leg pieces still match up – if not, your chair is going to be crooked! Attach the front legs to the side aprons as shown above. The tops are flush, and your chair part should match up at this point. Attach the front and back aprons, carefully predrilling. I used pocket hole screws and glue. The cross supports will not only add strength to your chair, but it gives you something to screw your seat to. Attach the seat back top as shown above. I used pocket holes from the back but you can also use predrilled screws from the legs. Attach as shown above. The base supports will add considerable strength to your chairs. Attach the base center to the sides as shown in the diagram above. Spray glue the seat cushion to the seat top plywood. Lay fabric facedown on table with seat top on top of fabric, foam side down. Staple fabric carefully to the underside of the chair, tucking corners neatly. Use 2″ screws to attach the seat to the cross supports or use pocket hole screws.
This chair was painted with Valspar Antique White in Flat Enamel, three coats. A top coat (Valspar satin finish poly) was added. The fabric is from Joanns, and is part of the Home Decorator’s 45″ wide fabric, and was on sale for $5 a yard. For a foam pad, I used a discarded chair pad cut to size. Total cost of this chair was under $20.If you are wanting to build great looking chairs for your patio you’ve come to the right place. I bought a home late last year and didn’t have any patio furniture whatsoever. My dad had built a beautiful piece for their home and so I credit him with design help and the inspiration to build my own. This setup is perfect for enjoying a relaxing evening out on the deck with friends or family. I built my chairs out of cedar because cedar does not rot and stands up against the outdoor elements quite well. You can use pine as long as it is painted or coated with a thick finish of poly. Please note that many of the links in this post are affiliate links which means I’ll get a small commission if you purchase any of the tools using them.
This is what helps support the website so I can continue making free plans for you. /AMAZON will help support the site. So thank you for your support! Approximate Cost of Lumber – $125 Click HERE or on the image below for the downloadable Double Chair Bench Plans. These plans are 100% free and you have the option to donate at the time of download to help support DIY PETE so he can devote more time in creating FREE video tutorials and plans for you. This is 100% optional of course! If you’d like them for FREE simply enter “0” in the dollar amount Cheers! The shopping list is provided in the FREE plans. The project is made out of 2×6, 1×6, 2×4, and 1×4 boards. All of the supplies can be found at your local Home Depot building supply store. Cut each piece on your miter saw. For all angles in this project, set the saw to 15 degrees. If you don’t have a miter saw you can find one here. I use a Dewalt 12″ miter saw for all of my projects. Download the FREE PLANS HERE!
Use a jigsaw to cut out the notch on the two front legs. The 2×6 piece will eventually rest in the notch. Measure 9 1/2 inches up from the bottom of the 2×4 front leg and mark. Measure 1 1/2″ back (depth). Then measure from your nine inch mark up 5 1/2″ and make one more mark. Connect the lines and cut out your notch on both pieces. Next, grab a role of tape to make your rounded corners for the arms and back supports. Do a rounded corner for the two outside armrests, and for both outside pieces of the table top. Create rounded corners for the top of the backrest supports as well(Part H). Cut with a jigsaw and use an orbital sander to smooth the edges. Check out photos in later parts of the project to see the rounded edges. As shown in the video, attach the front and rear leg together on the top with the arm support 2×4. Measure 11″ back from the rear of the front leg and put a mark. Then line up the rear leg so that the 15 degree angle sits flush with the arm support.
Attach with 2 1/2″ Deck Screws. Use the star (torx) deck screws instead of philips because they are much easier to use and don’t strip. Only attach the two legs to the arm support in this step. We’ll get to the lower cross support later. Measure 11 inches from the back of the front leg to the front of the back leg. Flush it up with the horizontal 2×4 and attach with 3 screws. Here is another look at how the sides will look when completed. To attach the sides, drill 3 holes from the back of the front legs into the 2×6. Make sure to drill pilot holes. Measure 8 inches up from the bottom of the rear leg. Please see the video if you have questions. This is one of the most tricky steps to try and explain. Use three 3″ Deck Screws to attach. Fasten to both sides. (Drill from the outside leg into the 2×4 rear support.) You will attach the cross supports on each end to the chair sides and rear support. The two middle supports will attach with 2 screws from the front and to the rear support as well.
Fasten the cross support with 2 or three screws to the chair sides as shown. You’ll notice the back of the cross support (with the 15 degree angle) sits flush on the rear support and the inside angle extends about 1/4 inch past the rear support. Attach each cross support. For the middle 2 you can drive 2 screws in from the front side. (Through the 2×6 and into the cross support.). To attach the rear side of the support drill a pilot hole through the side of the cross support at an angle down into the rear support. It will keep it in place and later steps will solidify the joint. Fasten to the sides with 2.5″ screws. Flush up the bottom with the 15 degree angle. The upper support arm bottom corner will be flush with the back side of the backrest support. Attach the front slat so that it hangs over the front 2×6 by 3/4″. Then attach the rear slat so it touches the two backrest supports. Attach the remaining 3 slats and space them evenly apart. (About 1/4 or so).
These boards are 20.5″ wide. Next, attach the backrest slats. These boards are 19″ wide. Attach the top board first to help square up the backrest supports. Then attach the bottom slat. Finally, attach the remaining boards and space evenly. Attach the two 14″ 1×4 slats to the front 2×6 using 2″ deck screws. Then connect the two on top with a 17″ long 2×4. Attach the 15.5″ 1×4 slats to for the back table support. Flush the bottom of the slat up with the bottom of the 2×4 rear support. Then connect the tops of the slats with two 17″ 2×4’s. The second 2×4 is used to connect the chairs to the table for extra support. Attach the two middle backrest supports to the 17″ 2×4 table support. This will strengthen the entire piece of furniture. Use two 3″ deck screws on each side. For the table, attach the 3 1×6 boards with 2″ deck screws. The edges will line up flush with the 17″ 2×4 table supports underneath. Fill all the screw holes with wood putty.
The screws need to be countersunk in order to fill them. Spread putty into the screw hole with your finger. You will sand off the excess later. Once the putty is dry ( a few hours ), sand around each hole to clean off excess putty. Once sanded, the filled holes will look like the photo below. Use a broom or rag to clean off sawdust prior to finishing. Here is a photo of what it will look like prior to the urethane finish. I like to use Minwax Spar Urethane. It enhances the natural beauty of cedar and protect the wood against the outdoor elements. Apply 2 coats of Urethane with a brush. Let the second coat dry completely (6-12 hours), then lightly sand the armrests, table, and areas you come in contact with when sitting (chair slats). This light sanding with 220 grit paper will remove any dust particles that settled in the first coat. Next, take a clean cloth and wipe a thin coat of poly on all the areas you sanded. This will give you a nice smooth finish. Once dry, enjoy your new furniture and have a barbecue!