Back "in the day", storm doors were a sure-fire way to save both energy and protect your valuable front door. Though many modern insulated front doors don't even need storm doors, the millions still in use will continue to need repairs, adjustment and Though I honestly believe that the manufacturers of aluminum storm doors try to make them as easy as possible to install, the fact is that a storm door can be a mini-nightmare project. However, if you take your time, you should be able to do a great job. Things to be careful of: Storm doors are designed to adapt to frames that are quite a bit out of whack. So, in your cutting and fitting, don't get hyper about absolute perfection. Really good is good When mounting the jamb bracket for the self-closer, believe the instructions when they indicate the distance from the door to the bracket, usually 1/4 inch. not micrometer-critical, but if you vary too much the door may not close
properly or not open fully. The safety chain is designed to stop the storm door from over-opening through the actions of humans or Mother Nature! Enough force can even rip the jamb bracket right out of the door jamb! Though many manufacturers give measured locations for the safety chain mounting, I always check to make sure that the safety chain will do its job before drilling any holes. I have found that the safety chains packaged with some doors are not the same length as the one described in the instructions. No big deal if the chain is too long, because you can snip off a few links. If the chain is too short, the door may not open fully with the chain Mount the chain at the recommended location onOpen the door to an acceptable position and lock it with the hold-open washer. The closer should not be fully extended or stressing the door jamb bracket. If it is, you may have goofed up the installation of the jamb bracket or positioned the door bracket
Correct this problem first before continuing!! Extend the safety chain taut and locate it on the upper jamb, with the safety chain jamb bracket angledMark the location of the holes with a pencil. out of curiosity, check the recommended distance from the hinge jamb to the location you just marked. If the distance is less than the distance you marked, you just saved your door and jamb from possible damage. distance is greater, your door wouldn't open fully and be, in a word, Understanding how these closers work will help you to understand theA spring within the unit does the actual closing. closer had just a spring, though, the door would swing shut wildly as did the old-time springs that are still used on some old wooden doors and gates. automatic closer uses air (or in some cases oil) to control the spring and thusIn a pneumatic closer, for example, there is an air tubeWhen the door is opened, this tube fills with air asWhen the door is released, the internal spring begins
to pull the door shut. The movement of the spring is cushioned by the air in the cylinder, with an adjustable valve in the closer controlling how quickly the air is released. The slower the air is released, the slower the Either slamming or incomplete closing can indicate either the need for adjustment or the need for replacement. As they age, door closers loose some of their ability to pull your door smoothly as the internal spring weakens and/or the seals in the pneumatic (or hydraulic) system begin to fail. times, minor malfunctions can be compensated for by turning the closing rate adjusting screw that is located on the door-mounted end on the closer. Turning clockwise will slow down the closing rate, while turning counterclockwise will increase the closing rate. A second way to adjust the closing rate is by making adjustments at the mounting bracket on the door. Many door closers have multiple holes on the closer and/or the mounting bracket allowing you to increase the tension on
the internal spring in the closer. This is known asThis is a good way to increase the closing force, especially in the last few inches of door closure if the door is notThe problem, though, is that this adjustment can decrease the amount the door will open. Check the total out swing of the door whenever making this adjustment to be sure that it is opening adequately for your needs. If your mounting bracket does not have multiple adjustment holes, you can also move the bracket further from the hinge. Many brackets have multiple mounting holes allowing for small adjustments. small, testing the door function each time... a little goes a long way here! There is another type of closer... the hydraulic door closer, which uses a light oil instead of air as a control fluid. As the door closes, the internal spring forces oil to move at a controlled rate between two compartments inside the closer. The only time you would see the oil is if the
Hydraulic closers don't have an adjustment screw, but instead are generally adjusted by physically rotating the body of the closer onBecause the flow of oil is more easy to control with precision, these closers work more smoothly than air-controlled closers. cost of these units is a little higher, but not staggeringly so. If you need to replace the closer, take the old one with you to theIf you purchase a close or exact match you may save yourself some work since the hardest part of the installation is installing the door andWith an identical replacement part, you can just replace the cylinder and leave the rest of the hardware in place... unless of course theEXCERPT: For adjustment and repair of Door Closers, often used in offices and commercial buildings. Also known as: Mechanical door closer, office door closer, automatic door closer. For information on pneumatic storm door closers, see this article: Storm Door Closer Maintenance, Repair and Adjustment
: This information may be inaccurate, incomplete, or dangerous. You are responsible for your actions. I caution you to NOT disassemble the main cylinder, your closer may have a strong spring inside that can cause serious injury if an end cap is removed. This article is an updated version of the original page. The operation of a door is controlled by the Door Closer in 3 basic zones: Instructions here are for a properly functioning door closer. If your door closer is not functioning properly, see Troubleshooting section before adjusting. e.g. LCN, Norton/Sargent/Arrow may have the following adjustments: To adjust a typical closer: Adjust a little at a time – try a 1/4 turn to start, open the door between adjustments to check the difference. For Kawneer models with a single combination adjustment for Sweep and Latch. One screw adjusts both settings: To adjust Kawneer closers: Set your Sweep speed first, then turn adjustment screw +/- one half turn in either direction to attain proper Latch speed.
Most problems are caused by low oil. Low oil level can look like: Oil loss is usually due to: Smaller Door Closers are relatively inexpensive, figure in your time, and consider replacing them. Heavy Duty Door Closers can be expensive and hard to find replacements for Check to see that your door closer is not under warranty. The following instructions may void any warranty you have. Repair seals / Refill Oil: Consider Hydraulic Jack Oil in the automotive section of a major store. I have also successfully refilled door closers using 3-in-1 household oil Tip: If you want to save yourself some time adjusting, count the number of turns while you remove the adjustment screws. When you reassemble you can turn them in the same number of times to get close to your original settings. Arm Shaft Seals: If you’re changing the Arm shaft seals, here’s a few tips. Be careful if removing the internal Spring. The Arm shaft seals on your closer might be accessible after removing the retaining ring on the pinion shaft (where the arm is attached to the closer) note the position of the arm on the pinion shaft, you will need to correctly align the arm and pinion shaft when you reassemble.