Reclaimed one over three panel 1930s interior doors. Solid Oak Rustic Barn Door Solid Oak Rustic 3 Ledged V-Groove Barn Door Solid Oak Rustic Butt and Bead Profile Stable Door Solid Oak Rustic V-Groove Profile Stable Door Solid Oak Rustic Bi Fold 3 Ledge Bead and Butt Cottage Door Solid Oak Rustic Bi Fold 3 Ledge V-Groove Profile Cottage Door Ledged Barn 'Hidden Fixings' Solid Oak Door Solid Oak Ledge And Brace Door Solid Oak 3 Ledge Glazed Rustic Bead and Butt Cottage Door Solid Oak Ledge and Braced Rustic Bead and Butt Door Solid Oak Ledge and Braced Rustic V-Groove Door Solid Oak 3 Ledge Glazed Rustic V-Groove Cottage Door Solid Oak Barn Door Solid Oak 4 Ledge Barn Door Solid Oak Ledge With Optional Braces Door Solid Oak Suffolk Half Glazed Door Abbey 3 Ledge Rustic Bead and Butt Internal Cottage Door Solid Oak Abbey 3 Ledge Rustic V-Groove Cottage Door Solid Oak Suffolk Door Solid Oak Antique Reproduction Door
supply Antique and reproduction stained glass doors throughout the UK from Brighton in the south, Birmingham in the midlands, to as far north as Glasgow and Edinburgh. We can also provide a fitting service covering London, Kent, Guildford, in Surrey, Winchester, Southampton and Sussex. We are proud to offer our range of solid pitch pine internal doors and our Engineered oak stained glass external front doors . We believe our reproduction stained glass and glazed, reclaimed and salvaged Victorian, Edwardian, Georgian and 1920s / 1930s interior and exterior glazed doors are the best you will find for sale anywhere in the UK. The stained glass door panels are made using traditional methods. We use hand floated glass that includes all the irregularities natural flaws fissures and bubbles of antique Victorian glass. We also include hand spun rondels and brilliant cut glass made using the same methods as Victorian glass makers. We have reproduced various period antique reclaimed Victorian stained glass front doors incorporating the Victorian sense of proportion, such as the wide mid, bottom and side rails, lacking in mass produced tropical hardwood doors.
Our internal and external doors are made in the traditional way using strong mortise and tenon joints. Our internal pitch pine doors are made from solid pitch pine . Pitch pine is an excellent timber and has been used in shipbuilding for centuries , notably on the hulls of Scottish fishing boats. They can be painted or may be oiled for a more contemporary look complete with chrome fittings. In addition to our reproduction doors, we have a varied stock of reclaimed Victorian, Edwardian, Georgian, 1920s and 1930s style stained glass doors and stripped pine internal and external antique doors. Visitors are most welcome to visit our showroom which is located midway between Alton and Petersfield in Hampshire to view our stained glass doors. Please feel free to email for further information or phone 10am - 3pm Wednesday to Saturday . Visitors to our showroom are most welcome on Saturdays by appointment from 10am - 3pm .Fully FittedComposite Front Doors Ayrshire composite front doors
Dorset composite front doors Kent composite front doors Sussex composite front doors Wiltshire composite front doors Somerset composite front doors Surrey composite front doors Lothian composite front doors Essex composite front doors Devon composite front doors Angus composite front doors London composite front doors Cleveland composite front doors Perth composite front doors Fife composite front doors Dartford composite front doors Norfolk composite front doors Suffolk composite front doors Cumbria composite front doors Pembroke composite front doors Cheshire composite front doors Newport composite front doors Flintshire composite front doors Halifax composite front doors Durham composite front doors Hampton composite front doors Middlesex composite front doors Hampshire composite front doors Gloucester composite front doors Lincoln composite front doors
Worcester composite front doors Warwick composite front doors Hertford composite front doors Argyll composite front doors Lancashire composite front doors Tyne composite front doors Gwynedd composite front doors Rutland composite front doors Featuring the world's most thermally efficient weatherseal, our fully fitted composite front doors are installed with a Police and Insurance approved multi locking system.There’s a lot of confusion about how, when and where to use wood oils. It’s no surprise really, when there are so many to choose from: teak oil, tung oil finish, Danish oil, oak furniture oil and many more, some of which are specifically designed for certain types of wood. Oil for oak furniture, for example. We thought it’d be helpful to take a look at wood oils and how to use them, and answer some of the most common questions on the subject. Oil is one of the most popular ways to finish wood. The protection delivered by oils isn’t quite as robust and effective as contemporary wood finishing products like varnishes.
But on the plus side, oils tend to bring out the character of the wood better, they’re made of natural products, plus they’re very easy to apply and maintain. Danish oil and teak oil dry faster than linseed oil, which is traditionally used on willow cricket bats. The finish they provide is also much more resilient. If your wood already has linseed oil on it, it’s best to carry on using it. But if it’s a new project, something that hasn’t been oiled before, steer clear of linseed oil. While teak oil delivers a slight sheen, Danish oil leaves a more lustrous finish. As you can imagine, Ronseal teak oil is a firm favourite with our customers. Standard linseed oil takes ages to dry, at least two or three days per coat, and you need multiple coats when applying it to new wood, normally three to five coats but in some cases, as many as fifteen to twenty coats can be applied. Boiled linseed oil, on the other hand, ‘only’ takes a day to dry. But neither are suitable for outdoor wood.
Mineral oil is actually a very effective laxative, which you should be able to buy at your local chemist. While it doesn’t give you the same sheen as the other oils we’ve talked about, it’s perfect for things like kitchen chopping boards where you need a non-toxic finish. Tung oil is thought by many to be the finest natural finish for wood, with its legendary performance and stunning end results. As the Tung Oil website says: “In over 100 years of development of synthetic resins and varnishes no one has developed a coating that surpasses the overall performance of natural tung oil. Tung Oil is a drying oil obtained by pressing the seed from the nut of the tung tree (Vernicia fordii). As a drying oil, tung oil dries upon exposure to air. The resulting coating is transparent, waterproof, and flexible, a property exploited in most of its applications, which include wood finishing and the composition of traditional oil paints, caulks, mortar and india ink. Tung oil is used on wooden toys as it is naturally non-toxic when dry and is not affected by mould like linseed oil.
Tung oil is able to move and flex as wooden surfaces expand and contract with age and changing temperature. The Chinese have utilised the properties of tung oil for hundreds, if not thousands, of years, for caulking and painting of their boats, treating leather, and waterproofing paper and cloth.” The tung tree originated in central and southern China, concentrated around the Yangtse River. and appear in the writings of Confucius from about 400 B.C. You need to apply tung oil using a special method called wet-on-wet burnishing, more complex and involved than many other oil application methods. Most amateurs find this process difficult. While you apply tung oil just like linseed oil, you need to sand the surface after each application of oil and it usually takes at least 3-5 coats plus 2-3 days drying time in between each coat. If you’d like to attempt it, here’s an excellent video. Oil is a natural product. Oils cure slowly and penetrate into the surface of the wood.
Multiple coatings can be applied until the wood is unable to absorb any more. Additional coats can be applied if desired to create a surface build or coating of oil. Varnish is a synthetic product made by cooking a natural oil like linseed oil, tung oil or even soya oil with a resin like polyurethane. It’s used to build up layers on the surface of the wood to create a plastic like coating that gives a hard wearing, protective finish or seal to floors and other wooden surfaces. In short, the answer is ‘No’. Because most modern varnishes are water based, they are generally not compatible with oiled surfaces. The easy way to think of this is having water and oil in a frying pan, try to mix them and they separate. If a water based varnish is applied on top of an oiled surface, it’s highly likely that it will not bond with the wood and will therefore peel off very quickly. Some types of varnish can be applied over an oiled surface but the process is difficult and needs specific primers and varnishes to achieve this.
The easiest approach to varnishing a previously oiled floor is to use a floor sander to remove the surface of the wood including the wood oil. Wood oils never penetrate more than a couple of microns into the surface of the timber so it won’t require too much sanding to get back to clean, bare wood.Use a cloth to work the oil into the wood grain, rubbing back and forth. When the wood has absorbed the oil, leave it for ten minutes then wipe the excess off with a clean cloth. Untreated wood tends to take 2-3 coats, but if you’re unsure just stop when the wood stops absorbing the oil. Although vegetable and other natural oils can be used, we would always recommend using a dedicated furniture oil as these contain a specially formulated blend of oils and resins, which provide additional durability and wear resistance. A great wood oil that can be used on most types of wooden furniture is clear Holzol Furniture Oil, or if additional colour of a stain is required, we recommend Holzol Furniture Oil Tints.
Yes, but most cricket experts believe you can’t beat raw linseed oil. For a new bat with no finish, apply at least two coats of raw linseed oil to the front, back, edges and toe, using a soft rag. The face and edges of the bat should be rubbed down with fine sandpaper every 3-4 weeks during the cricket season and a light coat of linseed oil re-applied. When it has sunk in, wipe off the excess then buff your bat to a sheen using a clean cloth. How do I refinish olive wood bowls? If you’re using the bowls to store or present food, never use a vegetable oil. All you’ll get is a horrible smelly, sticky finish. Use a colourless, odour-free, light mineral oil instead, a safe and popular by-product of petroleum. We’ll be more than happy to answer them. Just get in touch. There’s a Freephone number available as well as a regular number and a call-back form. Tags: danish oil, floor oil, oak furniture oil, ronseal teak oil, tung oil finish, wood oil This entry was posted