We have converted many of our most popular project plans into PDF format.To find a particular project, or to see what's available, use the search box or just browse the plans below. out ALL the plans from , , and At nearly 8 feet long and 3 feet wide, this workbench can take on just about any woodworking project imaginable. More than just a gorgeous centerpiece for your shop, our classic-style bench plan is designed for serious woodworking. Solid hardwood, two heavy-duty vises, and tool well along the back make this bench plan a favorite among woodworkers.This heavy-duty benchtop easily folds down and away when not in use. Tool rack and cupboard instructions included. This wall-mounted work center takes up little space, but offers lots of storage and a fold-down bench with a large work surface. Large work surface, lots of handy storage, and sturdy construction. Perfect plan for basement or garage shop. The last workbench you'll ever need!
Our plan calls for super-strong red oak and a smooth MDF top. Simple, yet the strong design makes this portable workstation a must-have accessory for any woodworker or DIY enthusiast. With a heavy-duty metal top, this bench plan is perfect for messy jobs like fixing a greasy bike chain or mixing paint. This project is the key to getting more out of your miter saw. It features loads of storage, a large worksurface, and an accurate stop and fence system for workpieces of all sizes. Designed to last a lifetime! Workbench plan uses inexpensive dimensional lumber found at your local lumber store or home center. How many times have you wished you had a solid bench to work on when building an outdoor project? Real country cottage charm! The perfect project for creating both an attractive and useful addition to your garden. Small Shop Finishing Station Is your shop too small to set up a finishing station? We have a solution for you. Despite its small size, this workbench is not meant for kids.
it's a plan for a heavy-duty workbench with a rock-solid frame. Take a contractor's saw, a router, a few sheets of MDF, and a handful of hardware and turn it into this super workcenter. Slide-out bins under your workbench -- a smart way to keep tools and supplies in reach. Every shop or garage needs a tough work surface for making repairs or assembling projects. Here's the perfect solution. Easy to build workbench plan can be finished in one weekend using construction lumber (2 x 4's) and a solid-core door for the top. We designed this workbench plan to pass the most rigid standards you could apply to a bench... and then some!I have all three vises fitted to my bench, two at opposite corners and to my right that is to perform tail-vise operations combining the poor man’s dog in the vise with dowel dogs in the benchtop. I will say up front that bench dogs and dogging systems are for me none essentials. Some may counter this and that’s fine, but I can and have worked without using any bench dogs for decades and when I have had them I forgot they were there.
That said, the reason I added them here is to make the bench as comprehensively universal as possible. Many will love having bench surface-holding capabilities and this method does work well.Many vises do not have the adjustable dog in the centre of the vise. The particular Record vises I bought do not have dogs, but I knew that when I bought them. In five minutes I will have a wooden bench dog fitted to my vise. It can be made from hardwood or from metal. On one of my benches I used 1/4” thick brass. Metal is unbreakable as a bench dog but wood will definitely get you going and should last for years.I must cut a dado across the wooden lining on the outside jaw of my vise, between the wooden jaw and the inside face of the moving jaw. Mine is 5/16” by 1 ½” wide. There is no danger of the wooden jaw breaking, whether plywood or solid wood.First I lay out the area to be removed. Pencil is sufficient for this. I cut the walls with a small saw. As long as they are square and parallel they will work.
Cut down only to the depth line, no deeper. I used a router to finalize the depth, poor man’s or bought or you can finalize depth without a router and just a 1” chisel.I used a 1″ chisel to remove the waste between the lines. In plywood this goes quickly without bevelling the sides as you would with solid wood because the layers separate easily and evenly. When almost to depth, use the router or if not follow the ply layer.I am using threaded screws into the tapped jaw holes. This will hold permanently, better than regular screws. Remember also that a threaded bolt can be used to tap wood and you can always do that instead of screws.To make the vise dog I used a piece of oak 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 4″ long. I cut down the length, just under 5/16″, and then across the grain to form a lip so that the dog hook onto the vise when dropped into the mortise hole.Now you can run parallel lines of holes equidistant from the vise (square across) and equally spaced on either side of a central line from the central vise dog in the vise.
I also run dog holes inline centred with the vise dog. This allows pieces narrower than the distance between the main dogs to be dogged in. The reason we generally used two dogs rather than a single run where possible is that wider boards are held square to the length of the bench, which gives greater stability.It can be difficult to bore holes square. I made a simple guide that clamps to the benchtop and bore holes guided by the two adjacent faces. I bore all the way through the top so that the holes remain free and clear. On the underside I screw small blocks to swivel. These remain covering the holes from beneath and stop the dogs from dropping through. If you have a lathe you can turn dogs like the ones shown. With the holes bored, I made oak dowels as dogs. Drop the dowel into the hole and mark the line at the bench top. Cut into the dog about quarter of the way and then saw or chop down. This flat face faces the vise dog and allows the workpiece to be anchored properly.You can do this to the other vises and use the main bench top.