E/O 1 in. x 7 ft. Brown Replacement Foam Kerf Door SealRestroom Stall Door Privacy Cover (2-Pack)Platinum White Collection Door Weatherstrip Replacement E/O 2-3/8 in. x 36 in. Brown Aluminum/Vinyl Ex-Wide Door Sweep Navajo White Security Door Seal Kit 1-1/2 in. x 17 ft. White Primed Wood and White Thermo Plastic Door Set Black Security Door Seal KitWhite Cinch Door Seal Top and Sides (5-Piece) White Security Door Seal Kit 2 in. x 1 7/10 in. Brown Door Corner SealsPlatinum Collection Door Weather-strip Replacement in BeigeWhite Door Weatherstrip Corner Seal 1-1/2 in. x 17 ft. Brown Primed Wood and Brown Thermo Plastic Door Set Copper Security Door Seal Kit Weth-R-Strip 1 in. x 84 in. Vinyl and Pine Moulding Weather Strip 2 in. x 7 ft. Door Stop and WeatherstripBrown Cinch Door Seal Top and Sides (5-Piece) Magnet-Stop Magnet Door Stop 3/4 in. x 5/8 in. x 84 in. Brown Elite Lifetime Door Weatherseal ReplacementWhite Elite Lifetime Door Weatherseal Replacement
E/O 17 ft. Magnetic Door Seal Replacement Kit Black Vinyl 7 ft. Bug Seal 7 ft. x 9 ft. White Garage Door Weatherstrip SealSome of the sliding glass door weatherstripping is exposed to the elements more than others, requiring more frequent replacement. The weatherstripping around your sliding glass door tends to wear out over time and needs replacing periodically. However, the door needs more than one type of weatherstripping to properly seal the opening. Instead of replacing all the weatherstripping in your door -- which tend to wear out at different rates -- find the source of drafts and buy the right weatherstripping for the area that you need to reseal. Determine which weatherstripping you need to replace. Look at the weatherstripping along the sides of the sliding section of door -- where it meets the door frame, as well as the bottom of the door and the joint where the sliding door meets the stationary door section. Check for broken or cracked weatherstripping. Close the door and move a lit candle along the edges, looking for areas where the flame dances wildly.
This shows you where most of the draft is coming in. Buy a pile weatherstrip if drafts are coming in between the doors when the door sections are closed. This weatherstripping is sometimes call fin or brush weatherstripping. It has a plastic or rubber fin surrounding by a brush-like pile that moves with the door as you slide it open and closed. It helps keep air from escaping from the gap between the doors. Find tubular rubber or vinyl weatherstripping to seal the door at the jamb. This weatherstripping compresses when the door pushes against it, forming a tight seal. Measure the size of the existing weatherstripping to ensure you buy one that will fit the size of your door frame. Test a small piece first to make sure the door still closes and latches properly; if you buy weatherstripping that is too firm or too thick, it could keep the door from reaching the latch. This type of weatherstripping can last up to five years. Purchase foam weatherstripping the same width as the edge of your door.
Install it instead of the tubular strips if you have a narrow gap to seal. This is thinner than the tubular strips, and it's often self-adhesive, making it simple to install. However, it doesn't typically last as long as the tubular rubber or vinyl. This type of weatherstripping often needs replacing every other year. Things You Will Need Candle Lighter Pile weatherstripping Tubular weatherstripping Foam weatherstripping References California Energy Commission: WeatherstrippingU.S. Department of Energy: WeatherstrippingAce Hardware: Weatherproofing Your Home Photo Credits Jupiterimages/BananaStock/Getty Images Suggest a Correction • Lay a drop cloth on the floor and pop off the two plugs covering the roller adjustment screws at the bottom of the sliding-door frame. (These are sometimes located in the edges of the door.) • Insert a flathead screwdriver into each hole and turn the screw all the way counterclockwise. This retracts the rollers, lowering the door. • Outside, set up a couple of sawhorses with pads.
• Take down any removable grilles, shades, or drapes. • Slide the door fully open and remove the head stop by backing out its screws. CAUTION: Don't leave the door unattended; without a stop, it can fall. Remove from Bottom Track • While standing inside, lean the top of the sliding-door panel toward you and lift it off the bottom track. • Set the panel on the sawhorses. CAUTION: Sliding doors are heavy. Make sure to bend your knees to take the weight off your back, or recruit a helper. • Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry each roller from its pocket in the bottom of the door. (Rollers are typically held in by friction and the weight of the door.) • If they are bent or broken, replace them with new roller assemblies. • Scrape any dirt from the wheels, then clean them with denatured alcohol and a rag. • Lubricate only with silicone spray, which doesn't hold dirt. • To reinstall, align each roller's adjustment screw with its access hole and tap in the assemblies with a hammer, using a wood block to protect the wheels.
Once they're seated, retract the rollers as far as possible. Clean & Lubricate Tracks • Wipe the head track and the outside face of the removed head stop with alcohol and spray with silicone. • Vacuum loose debris from the bottom track, then clean thoroughly with alcohol. The bottom track needs a more substantial lubricant than silicone; rub it a few times with a block of paraffin wax. • To replace torn or cracked weatherstripping where the sliding and fixed panels overlap, loosen its staples with a flathead screwdriver, then grab one end and pull it and the staples off the door, prying gently with a putty knife. • Remove any remaining staples with pliers; sink the broken ones with a hammer. • The strip on the jamb side is generally glued. If it's damaged, pull it off and scrape the adhesive residue with the putty knife, taking care not to mar the finish. • Where the sliding panel's frame overlaps the fixed panel, orient the new weatherstripping with its flap facing as indicated on the instructions.
Align the top end with the shadow line of the head stop, and secure the flange tightly along the door's edge. • Drill a 1/8-inch-diameter pilot hole at each of the holes in the flange and drive the screws provided. • Do the same on the fixed panel so the two strips interlock. • Glue the jamb-side strip in place with a plastic adhesive. Clean up smudges and fingerprints with alcohol. • Set the door back on the bottom track and tilt it up. Brace the door with your body and reattach the head stop. (Don't leave the door unattended until stop is installed.) • Roll the door to within a half-inch of the latch-side jamb, then turn the roller adjustment screws until the door is parallel to the jamb. • If the latch does not mate with its receiver on the jamb, adjust the receiver by loosening its screws and moving the plate up or down. Install a Hands-Free Lock (Optional) • Close and latch the door, then temporarily mount the lock against its lower edge.